Don Ridley

I have been waiting for these guys to make a power liftgate kit for the TC. This just appeared on their website: https://www.che1.com/aftermarket-power-lift-gate-for-ford-custom/ I will contact them for details.

The BMS did not work for an AGM battery. It holds the state of charge (SOC) at 80% and only applies 12.2-12.7V to maintain the state. This is too low for an AGM that needs to be around 12.8-12.9V. I disabled BMS using Forscan and selected a different battery type: T7 IF 75ah 650CCA. Now the charging system increased the SOC from 80% to over 90%. At 90% the charge voltage dropped to 14.7V. This is the recommended float voltage by Odyssey for the AGM. Now the battery is holding 12.8-12.9V . It looks like I found the proper setting.

It fills gaps in the fender wells. Probably for sound deadening.

Yeah, I rarely use the horn to alert others. I choose to avoid whatever is happening (of course this is not always possible). What I really need is a "friendly" horn. Use it to say hi to other drivers, cyclists etc. More importantly, it can be used to alert pedestrians without scaring the crap out of them. I drive a Prius at work and often drive in alleys downtown. Pedestrians in the alley have no idea you are behind them and a horn blast in an alley is obnoxious.

There is no switch from the factory on the 2014-2017s... Here is how I did it.

The battery in my 2016 1.6L Ecoboost TC was getting weak. Thanks to the information in this post I bought an Odyssey 48-720 AGM replacement battery. This larger battery fit easily once I removed the plastic spacer in the battery box (see photo). I had to bend the clamp to make up for the added height. The battery box cover fit without any modification. The 1.6L has the battery monitoring system (BMS). This system is not on the 2.5L TC. The BMS regulates charging to optimize fuel efficiency. For example, it increases the charge voltage when you coast downhill. The BMS must be reset when a new battery is installed. I do not know if the BMS will be affected by an AGM versus a flooded acid battery. My concern is the AGM has a higher full charge voltage (around 12.9V) compared to 12.4V for a flooded battery. I used Forscan to reset the BMS and all battery data was reset (age, state of charge etc.). The Odyssey has more capacity and CCA than the stock battery: 720CCA, 69AH. Forscan allows selection of different battery types (see photo). The stock selection was #11. I initially tried #0A but it did not seem to charge the battery over 12.3-12.5V. Plus I was not sure what the "IF" in the description meant. I hoped it identified an AGM battery but I don't think is does. I recently changed the setting to #03 (80AH, 700CCA). I don't have enough data to make any conclusions yet but it appears to charge the battery to a higher voltage...approx. 12.6V. Has anyone with a 2.5L and AGM battery monitored the voltage? I use a USB charger with voltage display plugged into the cigarette lighter.

I would measure the temperature sensor resistance as the engine warns. It may be starting at the "hot" resistance value. It may work ok as long as it responds to temperatures above the thermostat setpoint. ...or don't worry about it until it causes a problem.

The learn more expects to read a low pressure trigger signal in a specific order. Starts at left front and rotates clockwise. You can erroneously tell the ECU a tire is in the wrong location by deflating the wrong tire.

Great, detailed post. Thanks.

Thanks for the info. I will order the Mountune unit. And yes, I Googled NVH. But I also researched part numbers and checked info on several RMMs. All of this is necessary education to properly proceed with any project.

I would prop the lift gate open with a rolled-up towel or blanket. Secure it with a strap attached to the flexible handle. Drive around and listen for the noise.

Wipers are controlled by the BCM and SASM (steering angle sensor module). 12v and Common are always present at the motors. A LIN signal activated the motors. I have no idea how this signal works or what the circuitry in the motor looks like. See the wiring diagram in the other wiper topic.

2" is more versatile. A simple insert converts to 1.25".

Buy a scan tool and read the DTC codes. Forscan and a cheap elm327 (obdII reader) device works well. I got the same error when there was a communication fault on the bus caused by my obdII reader. It's almost impossible to work on these vehicles without a scan tool.

What year is your TC? Curious about the fog lights function. I found the Sylvania bulbs were not as bright as the incandescent. I eventually went back to the stock bulbs since I want the brake lights to be very visible. Cheap Amazon bulbs will fail.

Yes, the heated windshield creates some scattered light reflections. I have gotten used to it but it is not ideal. But the heater clears a frosty windshield very quickly. If you park outside this is a nice feature.

This may be helpful

ITSGuy, Your Transit 250 is significantly different from the Transit Connect on this forum. The programming in Ford vehicles varies greatly and even vehicles built on the same platform (Focus, TC, Fiesta) don't have programming that is interchangeable. Forscan can't program every option for every Ford vehicle. The Forscan developers have spent more time on the popular vehicles and much less time on vehicles like the TC and Transit. As a user, we can only see the options and functions that apply to the vehicle we can connect to. So none of us here know what Forscan can do on a full size Transit unless we own one. But, having said all that, here is what you can try/research: 1. Verify the system is reading the cruise control button activity. Find the PIDs in the BCM, PCM or other module related to the cruise control button and verify they change state when pressed. Of course, if the cruise control lights on the IPC illuminate then you know the comm BUS is transmitting the commands from the buttons. 2. Maybe the IPC needs to be configured/programmed. There may be a pre-programmed function or you may have to change values in each register (as built data). Check the Transit forum to see if anyone has done this. Study the IPC as built files from several Transits with cruise control (find a van on Autotrader and use the VIN to get the file from the Motorrcraft website). Ideally, find your exact van (year + options) with cruise control and compare the IPC as built data. Change the registers that are different and see if it works. This is tedious. Back-up EVERY module before you make any changes. 3. The Forscan forum may have some info but it covers every Ford vehicle worldwide so finding a post that covers your exact vehicle is unlikely. There is a solution, but it may take some work to find it.

Probably a bad radio unit (audio control module ACM). You should under warranty so have a dealer check it out. A replacement ACM needs to be programmed for your vehicle.

DRL can be turned off with Forscan in gen2 TCs.

My 2016 came from the factory with 2 keys. Extra keys can be programmed without extra equipment. Keys need to be cut with a special machine.

The voltage between Pin 1 and GND should be 12V briefly when the door is opened. The motor is working so there must be enough voltage to operate it so this is not the problem. The flickering headlights and clock problem are likely related to the lock problem. I don't have a schematic of the door locks. I think they are controlled by a module (computer) in the front door. It is possible that a voltage fluctuation is causing the module to act erratically. Check the battery connections. Check the ground connection to the frame (next to the battery). If your battery is 4+ years old it probably needs to be replaced. A bad battery or fixing a bad connection may be the cause of all these problems.

The door is opening but not locking, correct? The problem is likely in the door lock. My TC has a liftgate and it doesn't have a separate door lock mechanism. But 3.9V is strange. You may be measuring wrong. Anyway, is there a separate door lock mechanism? I haven't found one in the service manual. I'll keep looking.

Here' the wiring diagram. liftgate latch.pdf

Attached is the wiring diagram for a 2016 with barn doors. It should be the same for your 2014. I don't have barn doors on my TC but looking at the diagram here's how they work. Pressing the button on the door activates the Release Relay in the BCM. 12V is sent to the motor to open the door. The ground on the motor passes through the door lock. If the door is locked the ground is open and the latch won't open. I would troubleshoot by measuring for voltage and ground on the door latch. Pin 1 =+ 12V (when button pressed) and Pin 2 = GND. FOE on the drawing denotes European spec vehicles and FNA is for North American (I think). barn door locks.pdf