Don Ridley

Too many computer problems to overcome with this type of swap. Without access to Ford IDS software and some detailed technical knowledge, this swap is impossible.

The WRITE button is used to make changes to hex data in that register. I have not used the RESTORE function. I don't know why the as built data does not exactly match the Forscan data. You can change individual hex bits in the IPC, ACM but not the BCM. All BCM changes will be done using the menu selections. There are configurations in the central configuration that we can't see and can only be changed by the functions built into the menus. Save a copy of every module. A mistake in one may propogate into others. There are many tutorials. This one is for the F-150 and explains how to change individual hex bits. FORScan Tutorial.pdf

From the service manual on a 2016:

Your experience is normal. 1. Your battery is near the end of its lifetime. My 2016 shows 30% life left in the battery monitoring system (a feature on the 1.6l Ecoboost). 2. The DRLs and "run" position when using Forscan puts a big load on the battery. 3. Now I ALWAYS use a battery charger when making changes using Forscan. When the vehicle was new I got away without using one. 4. Reading data and DTCs don't require any battery backup/protection.

Does the windshield leak?

You can find a similar TC VIN with the IPC functions you want (autotrader). Compare as built config to yours. Manually change the hex data in your IPC if the two sets of registers are the same size and addresses.

Jrm223 It may be possible to activate the menus in the IPC display by changing the configuration file using Forscan. As you noted, the signals from the buttons are on the bus. PM me and we can go though the steps. I don't think you need a new IPC.

I assume this is a Gen 2 vehicle. The instrument cluster (IPC) may not have the programming to respond to the steering wheel switches. I don't know if the wiring harness will have connections for the extra switches and maybe even cruise control. Try it. You can upgrade the IPC for under $100 if needed. Going from base trim packages to premium trims may not be possible, or it is more complicated. Upgrading to the next trim level is more feasible. Let us know how it goes. Look for the forum post where cruise control was added. This has some info on the steering wheel replacement.

Mrtn, I also added a glovebox light to the same circuit. I mounted the light using a bracket and magnet. It was quick and easy. I used a magnetic window switch from a home alarm system. The light socket was from Amazon.

BCM connector layout and pin-out

I added multi-color LED footwell lights to my 2016 TC. Amazon has dozens of these lights for $30-40. I chose a set that has a simple controller and (4) 9” tubes. I only used 2 tubes and modified the cigarette lighter power cord to connect to the interior light circuit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I04Z7Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I mounted one tube on the bottom of the glove box. Remove the glove box by carefully removing the pins on the bottom (you can see in my photos I was not so careful). I trimmed some of the plastic on the glove box to mount the tube flush. I verified the tube was not visible from the driver or passenger seat. I mounted the other tube under the steering wheel. This one simply zip-ties to the metal frame. Wiring: Cut off and insulate the wires for the unused light tubes. I added extension wire for the driver’s side LEDs (there are 4 wires). This made fishing the wire across the bottom of the dashboard easier. I installed the controller in the glove box. The controller is in the glove box and wire feeds over the back of the box. Power will come from the interior light circuit on the Body Control Module behind the glove box. Access is easy with the glove box removed. Connector C2280F (marked on the BCM) has 20 wires. Pin 12 is a brown and green striped wire. This is the power for the interior lights. Find the BRN/GRN wirefootwell.docxfootwell.docx coming off the connector. Use a POSI-TAP connector to splice into the BRN/GRN wire. The TC wiring is 18 or 22 awg. The red and grey 20-22 awg connectors work well unless your extension wires are larger. https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Dynamics-Posi-Tap-Wire-Connector/dp/B009TG686Q/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=positap&qid=1560916105&s=automotive&sr=1-21 Check if you have connected to the the right wire by measuring the voltage on the POSI-TAP with the interior lights on, then off. The GND connection can be any metal on the dashboard frame. I drilled a new hole and used a sheet metal screw. The controller has a lot of modes but I selected the dark blue color and never change it. The LEDs change color by applying voltage to different wires. If you ONLY want one color (e.g. green) you can omit the controller and connect power to the wire that gives you the desired color. Some colors require multiple wires to be powered (white=all wires powered). Don’t worry, the LEDs won’t be damaged if you connect power backwards. This is a simple upgrade and using the POSI-TAP connectors saves a lot of hassle. A nice feature of the connector is it won’t cut the wire being tapped. If you tap the wrong wire, just wrap electrical tape around the tiny hole it made. The LEDs will flicker at the end of the dimming function on the interior lights. footwell.docx

The marker light housing directs some of the light downward. But I think the fog light will work as intended. This project was more about seeing if I could make it work. This was a fun one that kept me occupied for a couple of months.

Forscan can reset the adaptive tables. The PC version and smartphone app can do it. I have no idea what this will do. The service manual has a short procedure but it is not very prescriptive. Maybe the transmission will continually adjust but maybe starting fresh will work better or faster. Buy the OBD Link MX adapter. It works flawlessly. https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Grade-Diagnostic-Performance/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=asc_df_B07JFRFJG6/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699502954&psc=1 Here is the Forscan Lite smartphone app Service Procedure screen.

I saw a guy on the Focus RS forum was trying to add a rear fog light his RS. The Euro RS comes with a rear fog light you turn on from the light switch module. Based on his findings, the US vehicles will respond to the light switch signal by illuminating the icon on the cluster but the BCM does not output the signal to turn on the rear fog light. The BCM firmware can only be updated by a dealer and no dealer will install the Euro BCM firmware. The Focus RS guy gave up an added a separate switch. I looked for another solution. I bought a light switch from eBay UK. I confirmed the rear fog light illuminates on the cluster and the BCM does not output a signal. I tried in vain to find a signal from the light switch module I could use to turn on the fog light. The switch is only sending out LIN Bus packets, there is no physical switching of signals/power. Next, I focused on the power that was controlling the LED on the cluster and found the circuitry for the rear fog LED on the cluster circuit board (I used my spare cluster from a recent cluster upgrade). The LED does not turn on/off with a simple on/off voltage and the power is pulse width modulated (PWM). After a lot of testing and some circuit design, I found a circuit that will turn on a rear fog light by pressing the button on the light switch. I built a circuit that reads the voltage on the cluster LED and turns it into a signal I can use to drive a relay. I know this is probably too complicated for most, but it is a functional solution. See the attached sketch of the circuit diagram. Half of the circuit is home-made and the other half is a relay driver that I bought on Amazon. I soldered a wire on the cluster circuit board for the LED signal and connected it to the circuit (I briefly panicked when the new, upgraded cluster PCB was completely different from the old, but eventually found the same circuit components). I used power from the front fog lights to operate the circuit and the rear fog lamp so nothing is powered if the front fog lights are not on. The circuit is under the dash cover behind the IPC. Next, I had to modify the socket for the rear marker light. I bought a used wiring harness with all of the rear bulbs and sockets. I carved out the marker light socket to match the keys on the larger socket. It fits perfectly and the 2-element socket locks in place like OEM. The “bright” element is the fog light. The “dim” element is the marker light. I am still experimenting with different bulbs. The lens is not designed for projecting light rearward. A 7443 LED seems to work the best for providing a bright red fog light. Maybe someone (Chong?) will design a circuit using an Arduino that will read the LIN Bus and close a relay when the fog lamp switch is pressed. This is beyond my skill set.

Search tips: Use full and partial part numbers Use multiple search engines Look at all Transit connect clusters on eBay Search for Titanium trim salvage TCs Offer lower price if list price is more than $100. Market price is $100 or less.

I have embarked on several TC projects using that logic. I found that when it comes to programming (that controls everything in these vehicles) that "almost the same" is equal to "completely different". But I do read the Escape and Focus forums for ideas and tips that have been useful.

The size of the Focus cluster was not the same as the TC . There is no way to make it fit and look nice. After more research: 2014 and 2015 LCD cluster PN DT1T-10849-Ux 2016 PN FT1T-10849-Ux Try to match model years if you are upgrading.

Interesting to know if they are activated in US versions on the Gen 1. I am in the middle of a project to do this on a US version Gen 2 TC.

Yes. I installed led strip lights from Amazon. They have dozens of choices for about $20. I connected to the power for the cabin lights located on the BCM behind the glove box. Overall, an easy project. Something like this Car LED Strip Lights, 4pcs 48 USB LED Interior Lights, MultiColor Music Car Strip Light Under Dash Lighting Kit with Sound Active Function and Remote Controller, DC 5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWZVQC1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S-99Cb0YQJA1S I cut off the unused strips and cut and spliced the wires to length

The original switch had one large button for front fog lights. This is my latest project, rear fog light. Details to follow soon.

I think that is for the third brake light. The location does not appear to meet US DOT standards so another light was installed in the top middle of the TC.

As part of another (unsuccessful) project, I found the trunk release switch from a Focus will also release the liftgate on a TC. I bought a switch from a local salvage yard for $30. It is easy to install by removing the side panel and popping out the switch panel with plastic panel removal tools. The switch sends a signal over the LIN (low speed network) to control the lights, trunk release etc.. Apparently the trunk release LIN message also releases the liftgate (actually unlatches to door, not just unlock like the button on the key fob). The switch will not activate if the vehicle is in gear. Not sure if this is useful, but I had the switch so I installed it. I think a 2012+ Focus switch will work.

The gas nozzles in California have vapor recovery systems. The nozzle has a rubber boots that seals against the vehicle filler housing. A retainer ring around the nozzle pipe is supposed to hold the nozzle in the fill neck against the pressure from the rubber and/or spring loaded boot. The filler neck on my 2016 does not hook onto the retainer ring properly. The spring loaded boots pop the nozzle out of the filler neck. This appears to be a design issue with these types of filler necks. I have heard that California is battling with Ford over this design. For info, the vapor recovery systems are only needed on older vehicles. The system sucks in the gas vapors that are displaced when filling. Newer cars have built in vapor recovery. This is why we don't smell gas fumes any more when filling up a newer car. California wants to retire the vapor recovery requirement in a few years. The only concern is communities and people that have a lot of old cars will be negatively impacted so who knows what will happen. FYI, the vapor recovery requirement was the single most effective regulation in reducing smog. It had the added benefit of reducing the driver to acute exposure to toxic fumes.

Changing the steering wheel is not a problem. This post shows you can add cruise control if the new steering wheel has the buttons.

Finding a source for automotive connectors is difficult. These parts are usually sold only in large quantities. I would make a new connector. Buy a crimping tool and a two pin connector set on amazon, eBay etc. Buy extra parts to practice using the crimp tool. Much cheaper than $170. Another option. Is to find a used connector from a salvage yard. Molex Connector Lot, 5 Matched Sets, ( 2-Circuits ) w/14-20 AWG .093" Pins, Free Hanging https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G5PQHL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4qv7CbHC31HM2 Deutsch DT Series 2 Pin Connector Kit w/Barrel Style Terminals 16-20 AWG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3RS64E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1rv7Cb06CGPRS