Don Ridley

Nice work. Thanks for doing this. The change should work for late 2016s and newer TCs. Resetting the DTCs should be done every time a change is made by Forscan.

Look for a voltage change at the BCM input from the switch, then check for a corresponding change at the BCM output to the latch motor. The previous posts have all the drawings and connector pin outs.

See the wiring diagram earlier in this discussion. Fuse F65 may be blown. You can measure voltages coming off the BCM to see if it is working. You should be able to install a separate switch but the door may open even when the doors are locked. There may be ways around this but fixing the signal from the BCM or the actuator is best.

Zeb, I think most of us are stumped. Did the cable break somewhere under the hood? If not, you may be able to pull it with pliers. Any chance of access from under the vehicle (I have the 1.6l and it's impossible with this engine)? Do you need a photo of the latch to see what to pry on during the surgery from the front grill?

The Transit Connect is built on the Focus platform. Maybe the Focus forums will have technical info that is easier to find.

I found this in my files. 2016_Transit_Connect_v1-0.pdf

Global Windows only works if all windows have one touch open/close. I remember several guys tried to activate the dark mode option without success. Then a forum member found out the BCM needed to be updated. Many options in Forscan don't work due to the numerous vehicles, program versions and countries it tries to cover. But overall it gives the consumer a tool to bypass reluctant and expensive dealerships. And it's free!

Ford has a website that shows what software was shipped based on VIN. Late builds in 2016 should have the BCM software that allows this selection. I think Forscan knows what features work based on version numbers and will show the option if it can be configured. Service techs can't know all the details on every Ford. Believe what you learn in this and other Forums.

This is the big service manual for a 2016 TC. But I think you are correct, the sensor is in the front bumper. Musy have been a copy and paste error from another Ford. But the temperature display scheme seems to be accurate for the TC.

The reality is you will most likely need a PC and specialized software to fix a problem. The days of raising the hood to troubleshoot car problems on the side of the road are gone. But tools can help if you stop to help someone driving a vehicle from last century ?

From the service manual: Due to the location of the Ambient Air Temperature (AAT) sensor in the RH exterior mirror area it is greatly influenced by heat generated from inside the mirror. For this reason the outside air temperature value displayed in the IPC does not update in the upward (hotter) direction under 33 km/h (20.5 mph). This update strategy is used because the PCM is unable to determine whether the increase in temperature is truly from an ambient temperature rise or by heat generated from inside the mirror. The outside air temperature display in the IPC updates in the upward (hotter) direction under either of the following situations: if the vehicle is driven over 33 km/h (20.5 mph) continuously without the vehicle speed dropping below 33 km/h (20.5 mph) for approximately 90 seconds. if the vehicle is allowed to sit with the engine off for approximately 6 hours (the outside air temperature display in the IPC immediately updates to reflect the current ambient conditions since the engine has cooled sufficiently and no longer has an effect on the outside air temperature sensor reading). NOTE: If the vehicle speed drops below 33 km/h (20.5 mph) before the outside air temperature display in the IPC begins to update, the PCM logic resets and the time starts over. Because this filtering strategy exists, it may be necessary to drive the vehicle continuously above 33 km/h (20.5 mph) for approximately 90 seconds when observing the outside air temperature display operation. After the vehicle has been driven above 33 km/h (20.5 mph) for 90 seconds, the outside air temperature display in the IPC should start to filter upward toward the actual outside air temperature. Depending on the difference between what the outside air temperature is displaying in the IPC and the actual outside temperature, it can take several minutes for the outside air temperature display in the IPC to reach the actual outside temperature.

Reading your post again I think you have a Transit, not Transit Connect. You need to learn if the temperature is managed by another module ( like IPC instrument panel cluster ). Maybe this module needs to be reset or reprogrammed. If you have a Transit you may find better help on that forum.

Additionally, you can read the PID for outside temperature to see if the sensor is working. But I don't know if Torque or other OBDII apps read the raw data or the output from the vehicle's programming.

The outside temperature has programming that keeps it from reading temperature immediately. There are several routines or algorithms that require driving at normal speeds before it updates. This prevents reading the temperature of a sensor parked in the sun for hours or reading radiant temperature from hot roads and cars in stop and go traffic. This does not explain the -40 readings. You need to troubleshoot the sensor by measuring the resistance of new and old sensors. There may be a problem with the input channel on the module. You may have a simple problem like a weak battery that is causing module errors. Reading DTCs with a scanner or Forscan Lite may help.

The wires don't pass freely across the gap. There is a connector on both sides. I did not see an easy way to install different wires so I used the stock ones. They are approx 18ga and are fine for my speakers @ 50-75w.

No, it is not easy. The wires terminate in a plug, not a rubber boot. You would have to drill a new hole.

2 way speakers will be good for a basic upgraded from stock.

If you are going to write new configurations to any of the modules you must use a reliable device. The Forscan community universally agrees the recommend device is necessary. The risk of bricking your ECU is too great. The process is risky enough without sketchy hardware.

Here is an example from a post on the Forscan forum. This 2018 TC has 5 options for the daytime running lights. My 2016 does not have the last option that appears to active the DRL configuration from the user menu. You can see there is an alarm configuration and this TC has"no alarm". Maybe the menu for the alarm in your 2018 will have something that allows the interior alarm configuration from the user menu. The only way to know is to run Forscan on your vehicle. BUT, some menu selections don't work so overall Forscan has a low probability of working for this issue. But it only costs $75 for the adapter to try.

On my 2016 TC Forscan will allow the perimeter alarm to be active or not. But an interior alarm was not available in 2016. Forscan may have menu selection for "with" or "without" interior alarm. But this may be a semi permanent selection. Your only hope is there may be an option that activates the menu selection in the steering wheel display (IPC).

Version 2.3.19 beta for Windows is THE version you would use to make configuration changes or in depth diagnostics and maintenance functions. You simply request an extended license to do configuration changes. The adapter needed to communicate with your vehicle is about $80 so that part is not free. The Forscan Lite app for a phone is slightly more powerful than Torque Pro in that it can read and clear DTCs. The app is not free

Fifty, Other forums (Fusion, Escape etc) have tried this without much success. The F150 forum was the most successful. But the F150 has a different program structure from the TC, Focus and other euro models. Forscan is not as universally configurable on these platforms that use a Central Configuration architecture. The challenge is learning what Forscan can do with the configurationsc that have been configured in CC. My TC has almost all the factory options so I don't know if Forscan can add them to a plain vehicle. Then there are the changes from model year to model year. So essentially, you simply need to try something on your vehicle to learn if it will work. I read the Forscan forum and many questions go unanswered because nobody with the exact model, year and options has tried or experienced the issue. But, Forscan is a great diagnostic tool and has many service features like resetting computer modules that can be very useful. .

I would verify the proper program was installed in the Smart sensors. Check out their website. It has a lot of info. It looks like you need hardware and an account to update the Smart sensor programming. I doubt a Ford dealer will troubleshoot the aftermarket sendors. You can buy am oem sensor and see if it is recognized during the re-learn process. This will tell you the ECU in the vehicle is working. Part no. 9L3Z-1A289A. Approx $55.

Looks like Forscan has a procedure for wiper calibration.. This may work if you manually reset the wiper to the home position. Using Forscan requires an adapter. Search this forum and YouTube for Forscan details.

Sounds like a problem with the body control module (BCM). This is the main computer for everything in the TC except engine control. Troubleshooting the BCM requires special tools and documentation. You may have to go to a dealer.