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Picked up my 2014 wagon last fall. The backup camera quit working about a month ago, showing the "backup camera not available" message. I found that the camera fuse, F29 in the auxiliary panel at the right rear side, was blown. Replacing the fuse resulted in an immediately blown fuse upon powering up the van. This tells us we have a hard short somewhere in that wire. Picked up a copy of the wiring diagrams to see if I could troubleshoot the issue. The power runs from fuse F29 in the right rear, up to the front of the van, crosses over, and then runs down the left side to the Image Processing Module above the left rear wheel well. If your van is like mine, and does not have parking/collision sensors, this is apparently a single continuous run of thin blue wire! This might be one of the longest runs in the van. Finding this short would likely require disassembling much of the interior. I was able to rule out any issues with the wiring between the module/door hinge/camera by unplugging the connectors for these. I would still blow a fuse in all scenarios. Since I could easily see/access the thin blue wire at the fuse panel and module connector, I decided to just create a new power run that goes under the trim panel at the back doors. This has successfully fixed the issue, camera is working again. I'm still using the 5A fuse in the panel, and used a 16ga wire, which is much thicker wire & insulation than the original. I don't think it will get pinched under the trim panel, but we're fused so I'm not worried if it should. Connections at both ends were done with solder and shrink tubing, so this repair should be good for quite some time. Repair pics show the insulating blanket that I've used for sweat soldering copper plumbing. I didn't want to risk melting any trim panels with solder drips or the heat gun.

I know this is late, But i got it fixed. Just wanted to update.. There's a box under the dash on passenger side. It is where the USB cable goes. Not sure the name of this module, But i found that disconnecting it for a few min, must have reset it. I plugged it back in, and haven't had any more issues with it.

2018 Ford Transit Connect XLT Wagon LWB Let me start by saying that it does appear that I have fixed this problem now and detail for anyone in the future who has these same symptoms what my fix was. The Symptoms: --It was still during the summer and I had the a/c running on max. I got out to deliver a package and it was fine. When I got back about 30 seconds later I noticed the fan didn't seem to be blowing as hard but I didn't think too much of it and thought I was maybe a bit crazy. Several minutes later on my way to my next stop I noticed that I wasn't crazy because the fan speed slowed down drastically. I turned the control to off. I left it off until after I left my next stop when I turned it back on. It was now blowing at full speed again. Several minutes go by and it starts slowing down again. So I turn it back off. I wait a few more minutes and turn it back on, this time only onto the number 3 position. It then works fine the rest of the day without slowing down in this position (probably 4 - 5 more hours of running). Next day when I turned it on, it didn't last long at all before the speed dwindled to nothing. It remained in a state where I could turn it on and get a minute or two of air before it would die out. Then eventually it stopped working altogether. Then about a month after that I turned it on to demonstrate to someone the problem and it actually came on but again only ran for a few minutes and died out. Fixing it: -- I knew that the problem was likely either the blower motor resistor or the motor itself. So I ordered both parts from Advance Auto. And yes I did use a Carquest Premium blower motor and was able to re-install it even though I had heard or read (can't remember which) from somewhere else that this fix "requires" the Motorcraft blower motor. I got a friend to help me and we watched a youtube video which I will link at the bottom of this post. We first tried to change just the blower motor resistor since we thought that was the "easier" item to change. Here's the thing though, it is absolutely not an easy part to change at all. After 6 hours (Yes 6 actual hours of two men working) we finally got the resistor changed. And we still could not get the screw that holds it in place back in. We barely managed to get that screw taken out. So now my resistor is held in place with some 3m duct tape instead. Then we tested it. And the problem persisted. So the next thing to do which I didn't start for another month or so was the process of changing the blower motor. Let me tell you, it isn't a quick or easy process. Now, my van has a right hand drive aftermarket conversion on it for my job. So I had extra work that you likely won't have unless you're in the same profession as me. I had to remove the passenger seat (driver seat is already gone for me). Remove my right hand drive kit. Then to gain some extra working space I removed the top piece in the center of the dash so I could take the radio out. I then took the next trim piece out and then popped popped the shroud around the gear shift up so I could take the next trim piece off and finally the center console area trim panel out. Then I had to drop the BCM/fuse panel off of its mount on the passenger side (you will probably have to remove your glove box first. The PDF at the bottom might help you some too. Then I used a mini ratchet (may call it a stubby ratchet) and a long Torx T25 bit with a long extension and a endoscope/boroscope/whateveryoucallitscope to see what I was doing to get on the 3 screws around what I will call the cage around the blower motor. Once you get it out from under the driver side you will have to unplug the motor. And then you will need 2 people for sure for the next part. One person has to hold the unlocking tab from the driver side and the other person has to twist the blower motor itself clockwise 45 degrees from the passenger side. Then the blower motor will extract through the passenger side. Now for the replacement I remember hearing that because you need to be able to grab the motor you must use a Motorcraft replacement because the aftermarket ones don't have big enough holes in the fan to be able to hold on to it. But what you can do like with the Carquest Premium blower motor is take a small screwdriver and gently pry the locking tab off the end of the motor shaft. Then slide the fan blades off the shaft. Now re-mount the blower motor. Then slide the blades back onto the shaft noting that it is keyed to only let the blade slide on a certain way. Then press the locking tab back onto the shaft. Then basically reverse engineer what you did when taking it apart to put it back together. Now the way I got those screws back into those hard to reach areas was with using the scope to see and then dipping my T25 bit in some RTV silicone and then pressing the bit into the screw. Anything tacky or goopy like that should help hold the screw onto the bit without so that you can actually get it into those holes without it falling off the bit a million times. Conclusion: -- I now have my vehicle back together and it seems to be working correctly again. I have had it blowing for about 10 minutes without any sign of it slowing down and I hope it continues to work right. I believe the problem is that the brushes in the factory blower motor are cheap crap and burned up. I would rate this at least a 6-7/10 on the difficulty scale job. It requires a lot of time, a lot of patience, and a lot of painful contortionist movements to fix. I don't know what it would have cost me to have my mechanic do for me but I would guess he would have charged over $1000 for this job that cost me about $200 in parts. If you are reading this then I hope my write up has helped you because information on this particular problem seems quite sparse for these 2nd generation Transit Connects. I found plenty of videos detailing the change on the 1st gen models which seems like it was much easier to do. The video I mentioned several paragraphs ago blower moter removal.pdf

i have replaced the suspension parts: tie rods, control arms and wheel bearings twice. ive done the brakes once, but ive had a problem with the rear driver side drum adjuster wheel 3 times. seems it dont adjust then falls down to rattle and wear. 1st time no lube, 2nd time antiseize, 3rd time moly on threads. it think this is the cure. ive done the coolants hoses {all} with genuine motorcraft. and changed spark plugs twice. valve cover gasket once. about 10k ago did the cv joints. oil every 10k w/penzoil ultra5w20. transmission with valvoline LV; fluid 25k & filter 50k. it has worked well for me as a delivery van. still have not found a location for my diesel heater that the vent wont be damaged by my doggie laying on it.

I have picked my configuration and will be ordering a fully equipped LWB Custom Sport soon. Not decided over the color yet.

Hi All. Thanks for tips. Even using a pry bar I could not get my spare wheel to come down more than an inch. Its not rust just a failed and jammed mechanism. As all the lifting bits are above the actual spare wheel and can't be got at, major action was called for. I put the rear of the van on jacks enough to get under and give me a bit of head room. From underneath using a 4" angle grinder and steel chisel I carefully ground/chipped away the centre steel assembly that was holding the wheel up till it was smaller then the wheel centre hole. Be out of the way when the wheel and tyre are free as it will just drop to the floor. Once off I removed the jammed mechanism and replaced the whole assembly with a new one. Since the grinder was inches from my face spitting metal particles I wore a welding mask. Not the nicest job to do

Hey, thank you for posting an update on your van. I recall seeing your old posts and a video where you drove the van . Anyhow, I was planing on swapping mine as well and I wanted to try to keep the automatic pcm in place. After much research, it seems that it would require a simulation of the tcm to work properly. In theory, this is what has to be done 1. simulate the transmission codes on the canbus network 2. simulate the transmission switches output to the pcm (ground switches that indicate in what gear the trans is) 3. simulate sensors of the transmission Here is what I had done: - logged the communication of the canbus network - retrieved (not confirmed yet) the automatic transmission gear codes - basic research on usage of the pcm pins canbus analysis On the canbus network, the automatic transmission gear codes id is x230 and here is the data for each gear. When the van is off and the shifter goes through all gears, here is the data that I get: park : 00 64 D3 00 00 00 00 reverse : E1 08 D3 00 00 00 00 neutral : 00 64 D3 00 00 00 00 drive : 11 19 D3 00 00 00 00 first : 20 95 D3 00 00 00 00 second : 11 19 D3 00 00 00 00 (But I'd have to check again the park and neutral codes as they seem the same) pcm pins These transmission gear codes correspond to the 7 switch pins (pins 8,13,14,20,30,35 and 41) on the PCM. Aside from that, there are a couple of pins that would require simulation - 4 sensors (pins 10,19,29 and 37) - 6 solenoids (pins 23,33,43,44,45 and 50 but pin 11 and 15 could be deleted) - 2 other pins (could be ground or power control) (pins 43 and 50) So, simulating the transmission in order to fool the pcm would be a bit time consuming. The temperature sensors would not be all that bad, but simulating speed and matching gears could be a little bit tricky and would end up messing some PID's. At best, we might get final drive ratio error codes, but worst case PID's would be very off and throwing a bunch of codes (ABS, Transmission, Gear ratio...) Plus, using the manual tune with the proper wiring is a plus as the pcm uses the clutch switch to adjust fuel/air ratio depending of engine load. (Source for pcm pins and clutch switch : workshop manual) Anyhow, I hope the canbus codes could be hopeful for anyone that wants to keep the auto tune. Props to converting yours to manual! Note : that is all that I will to for the manual swap as I am getting rid of my van due to the engine going bad

My RallyCross class trophies tell a different story

That's what I am thinking.

Hi folks, In the course of a hardwired dashcam installation on my cargo XL, I needed to find a fuse that was ignition-switched in the passenger compartment fuse box (behind the glove compartment). I tested a few and here's what I chose: - The ignition-switched fuse I tapped was #3, "parking assist control module". - For constant power, I chose #23, "audio unit". Hope this helps someone! I believe it may also apply to 2019, 2020, 2022, and 2023 models at least.

NO, for the Transit steering wheel. Maybe, but probably not for the Escape. TC, Focus and Escape are built on the same platform but are not exact duplicates of each other. You would need to compare the wiring diagrams to ensure the connectors are the same and the steering wheel controls for the same (cruise control, radio control and menu control).

Let's see if this works. First post after introducing myself. I decided to create a little more room in my 2017 T.C. The front 1/3 of the cargo floor is a false floor !!! I hope this helps someone else.

Junkyard replacement will likely have no side airbags or ways to connect to your TC sensors/computer. I love mine, but agree that long drives are not the most comfy. Hope you find the solution.

Driving my transit connect for the first time I quickly realized it needed sound deadening. I pulled every panel and installed 10mm deadening everywhere I could find a metal panel. Then added corrugated plastic to cover where there was none, doors, walls, rear ceiling. I also added a second light in the rear and switched them both to LED bulbs. BIG upgrade. Seeing how I use this van for work, I build shelving for totes. I am loving this thing so far!

I too didn't think to check before and after with a decibel reader. Tires made a big difference for me as well.

Dumb question, can you swap an aftermarket radio into a TC with Ford Sync. As in the Sync radio out, an aftermarket in. There a kit for that?

An alternate solution that's reasonable and perhaps responsible as well is to use FORSCAN software loaded on a laptop, tablet, phone. The interface to the ODB port is a dongle that's below $100. Some dongles have a USB port, others are Bluetooth interface. Search this forum for FORSCAN and you'll find more info and the FORSCAN forum as well. Good luck!

You're replying to my question about what year/model. My van is a 2015 Cargo, similar to your 2018. See the link below for a discussion about sound proofing. Also consider adding in a storage hatch in the foot well area if that's not on your mod list. It's great having the extra place to stash things. There are multiple threads discussing this mod besides the one below. Good luck!

No idea why the axle gets replaced too. Listed on the receipt as a CV joint/axle. I peered underneath, looks like a new left axle. Shop was able to get CarMax to pay for that part of the repair, so I'm all good. Guessing it's possible an improper shape/profile of the axle at the sealing point could be the issue that causes the failure? In which case replacing just the seal would not be a sufficient long-term repair. The full synthetic fluid is very nice. Down in the 30s here this morning, shifting was still silky smooth. Will be interesting to see how well it works in Jan/Feb here, which can get down to -20.

i hit 560k this past week on my 2011. i bought it couple years ago with about 320k on it. the previous owner said the engine and transmission had been replaced about 3 years before i bought the van. He did not know how many miles on the rebuilds. He was a delivery guy that worked local. Im a delivery guy that runs long distance. I hit the 560k on a trip to Tuscon AZ; about a 2900 mile roundtrip from my home in Mississippi. i like to run non ethanol fuel. I got between 24.6 to 28.2 mpg depending on wind. i drove about 70 mph the whole way.

The first was acquired last year. Black Friday. I liked them enough that I bought a second pair in July. I now have 3 pairs. The leather is thick, heavy, and stiff. They take a lot of breaking in. Not for those with delicate feet. Not for the "woke" crowd. Especially if you care about things like race relations, politics, sustainability of shipping consumer goods across the globe, etc. Due to the exchange rate of the Rand versus the Dollar, the sale price is on the low end for the quality of the product. Comparable quality could cost twice as much from other shoe companies. The most interesting thing is that they have a custom boot builder on the website. You can pick your own last, leather, sole, color, etc. They will custom build your boots to order. https://jimgreenfootwear.co.za/ https://jimgreenfootwear.com.au/ https://jimgreenfootwear.com/ https://jimgreenfootwear.co.uk/

Never even heard of the brand before. Have had just a few pairs of hiking boots (for winter mostly) and these have been hi-tech, not traditional (Columbia, Halti and such).

The van passed inspection without issue.

I report that I have successfully found the interface unit. It should arrive soon. All in all, I've spent around 60€ in total on all components so far. AP800's are not available anymore. The current model for this car would be the AP900Ci. Those go for around 350-400€ The effort and time I've put into this so far, is well worth it given how much money I'm saving. I really can't complain I might document the installation here, once I have time for it. Maybe. Of course, I first need to figure out the wiring 😄

Sorry I don’t but I have made/modified many bushings over the years. I measure the ID requirement with a caliper, then the most important OD of the current one or from the holder, and the length. Then I decide what material might work like nylon or bronze and try for a near match at Tractor Supply or Granger. Get the correct OD then either drill or ream it, cut it to length and instal it. Not a simple solution but it has worked many times for me. You could try these guys: https://www.bushingfix.com/ford-transit-connect-shifter-linkage-cable-bushing-replacement-kit/ Or: https://www.ebay.com/itm/335365257942?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

my van has not had any water leaks up front. as for transmission maintenance. i bought the dorman pan for a mazda with drain plug. i use atf mercon LV. i drain every 25k miles and refill with 4 quarts. at 50k miles i drain and change filter. i use these cool 3rd hand gaskets and squirt a tube of shudderfix, . i bought this one used, it had about 300k on it and motor and transmission had been replaced about 3 years before i got it. that guy was a city delivery and im a long distance delivery. my heater is the smaller one with remote. i use the bigger ones in my promaster and after getting one with remote wont do it any other way. i travel with a dog so i can just turn on the heater if i go inside to do a delivery. that keeps van warm enough. i have a maxxair fan but really thinking i want an ac.

You can do it with FORScan.

Try parts.ford.com Enter your VIN for vehicle specific parts. My '07 F-150 doesn't have any kind of shield under the truck.

No, there's no shield further back under the engine bay. Maybe I'm more of a truck guy, but I think of full shields as being a relatively recent development to improve aero as manufacturers care more about MPG. In any event, IIRC what you're looking at, "Lower air deflector", should clip into the wheel-well liner "fender splash shields" via an intermediate triangle-shaped piece "front splash shield". As with most Ford parts 10+ years old, the easiest and cheapest way to sort it is to grab everything at once from a u-pull-it, if your area still has one.

Thank you for content I read before making the purchase last month, look forward to learning more. I picked up a 2020 with 30,000 miles. My use-case is a versatile daily driver, support outdoor recreation, with a lot of driver compartment room & comfort...check!

Got a little progress to report , everything removed from the focus . Been playing catch up with work since having both shoulders replaced tho , so it's been slower than I was hoping. I'll have some interesting pictures in a few weeks tho . Can't wait to let this thing rip on the freeway without the bill gates dashboard, yay ! Donor focus has no abs ! Makes the conversion a little easier, and I actually like non abs brakes better . See you guys in a few weeks with update and pics .

Repeat Shuffle

I have a wagon. The headrests on the seats do a great job of obstructing the view. And with limo tint, I can't see much anyway. Which means that I've never intentionally turned on the rear wiper, or activated the washer spray.

That is great out come. If you put enough stuff in your TC like I have you won't be able to see the back windows any way!

What an adventure.

Adding an audio amplifier, power inverter or other high current loads requires connecting heavy gauge cable directly to the battery. The Gen 2 TC’s battery is tucked under the front cowling and is enclosed in a covered box so making this connection difficult. Plus, having a big cable bolted to the battery with a big in-line fuse looks amateurish. There is a professional, safe and easy alternative. The front wall of the battery box holds the high current battery junction box (BJB). This is where all the power is distributed to other fuse blocks and modules in the TC. Remove the air filter housing. The BJB is attached to the front panel of the battery box. This panel lifts up and out to access the battery. Disconnect the (+) terminal and carefully pry open the BJB cover (5 tabs). You will have to cut some cable ties holding the cable on the front of the BJB. Here is the front of the BJB (air filter housing has been removed) This is the inside of the BJB. I have already added a cable on the bottom post of the unused slot on the right. The BJB has 10 circuits from 40A to 150A. The last slot on the right is used for glow plug power (60 amp) for a diesel motor. This slot will be available in all TCs in the United States. Connect your new power cable to the bottom terminal of this or any other open slot. Install the proper size MIDI style Littlefuse brand fuse. Attach with 5mm nylon locking insert nuts. I used #4 AWG cable and this fit with some trimming of the plastic housing. The #4 lug had to be shaved to fit the narrow slot. #4 AWG was overkill in my application. Remove the battery and battery box. Run the cable into the cab using the plastic square knock-out located on the firewall on the left (driver’s) side behind a perforated cutout in the padding/insulation. You can see the knock out under the master cylinder. I routed the cable under the center console. The console is easy to access by removing 4 screws. You do not need to remove any dash panels if you use an electrical fish tape or other stiff wire to pull the new cable under the short section of carpet and padding between the dash and console. The fish tape will poke out under the carpet near the accelerator pedal. Route the cable to your load. Plastic knock-out on the driver side firewall Important notes: Use the proper size and type of cable. I bought power cable designed for automotive audio amps. This is much different from cable used in homes and buildings (THHN for example). Automotive cable has many more strands of wire and is much more flexible…and expensive. Many of the cheaper offerings will be copper clad aluminum and the gauge may not be true. Use pure copper if you can afford it. My cable was sold by Kicker. What size cable? Note that the OEM cables in the BJB are #8 or #10 AWG but they are fused at 50 to 80A. This amperage does not comply with the NEC and does not need to. Do a Google search and you will find that you can safely use # 8 cable for automotive, 12 volt loads of 70 or 80A depending on the length of the run. The #4 AWG cable I used can handle well over 150A. If you are going to run large loads continuously, like power tools or large air compressors, you need to use an external generator. The TC is not a power plant and you should only connect large loads that are on intermittently, like a coffee maker or espresso machine. The standard alternator outputs 88 amps at 1800 rpm (150 amp max), so running the engine may not be enough power for large loads.

Doable but not as easy as you think. The loadfloor in the wagon and van versions are different. When you remove the 2nd row seats from the wagon version, you'll find that the carpet is not supported underneath where the seats were. If you don't realize that and step into that space, you'll crush everything below it. Yeah, found that out by doing it. I build a plywood box-ish thing to infill from where the loadfloor drops off (behind the 2nd row seats) to the back of the 1st row seats so I have a flat floor all the way from the rear doors to the back of the 1st row.

No pics for this one, just a PSA: if the cylinder head temp sensor fails, it also locks out the A/C, which was new for me as somebody who's only driven older vehicles. I'd been getting extended crank times for a couple weeks, and wasn't sure why. After a medium-sized road trip, got P1289 "Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range". Ordered the sensor since it was cheap, cleaned the plug, and reset the code. Next day, the code came back, temp gauge stopped working, and I noticed the A/C was also out. Thought I had two separate problems, but later that night I noticed the rad fans were screaming, locked at full speed even at normal engine temp. I guess when the computer can't tell engine temp, it takes really aggressive steps to prevent overheating, which also includes locking out the A/C. Replacing the sensor not only cleared the code, fixed the temp gauge, and let the fans spin at normal speed, but allowed the A/C to work again as well.

After getting code P0132 "O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage", not finding any vac leaks, and deciding it was due anyway as I approach 90k miles, I'm back to complain about the Duratec upstream O2 sensor. In summary: fuck this thing. You'd think it's super easy, right? It's right there sticking off the back of the motor, near the top: But when you put an O2 sensor socket on it, it hits those heater hoses behind it, and there's nowhere to swing a wrench. I found out later they make an O2 sensor crow's foot, but honestly the thing was welded in there so tight I can't imagine any split socket would do the job. I cut most of the sensor off with a hacksaw and used a normal socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet with a cheater bar, and it still took like an hour. It came out looking like this. New sensor wouldn't thread in, either, because clearly the old one obliterated the threads on the way out. So I go to Autozone and spend $10 on an O2 sensor tap, and it immediately eats itself as well: To the tap's credit, it did unfuck the situation enough to install the new O2 sensor and save me from having to pull the manifold, but holy shit. In summary: if your upstream O2 goes out on a 1st-gen, consider just selling the van and getting something else.

back to the back up camera idea. I set mine up to be on all the time. it has 2 video feeds. with a quick switch i can see the passenger side blind spot also. cost less than the 150 budget.

Check for misfires using a scan tool. You may have an ignition problem that can be solved with plugs and/or coil packs.

I thought the fact that the rear two dome lights do not have switches on them was a silly engineering oversite, so..... I installed micro push button switches and LED bulbs in them.

2017 Focus is a 55mm offset. 2010 TC is 53mm offset. Center bore is 63.4 for both. Eh ... close enuf, eh.

I just installed a factory hitch yesterday, the plastic bumper comes off easy. Remove the screws that you already did then start pulling the bumper off from the front near the wheels, all the clips will pop off. Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

Thanks BONE. For sound proofing, I used two layers per the mfg recommendations. For the ceiling and doors (sliders and rear), I used Kilmat 50mil butyl sheets (one 50sft ft box) as a lightweight option. The Noico 80mil butyl sheet material was my first choice but after feeling how heavy the sheets are, I switched to the Kilmat 50, which are much lighter than the Noico 80. I used the Noico 80mil (one 36sq ft box) for the cargo area flooring and also the rear upper side panels. The second layer for all surfaces was Noico 150mil liner sold in rolls, which provides a combination of sound proofing and insulation (two 36sq ft boxes). It's now in 170mil rolls. Buy the Noico roller and expect to spend a lot of time doing the install. The ceiling work is tiring working above your head. As I said above, I'm not sure the sound proofing on the flooring areas is very effective. After I removed the rubber cargo mat I fitted a 5/8" sheet of ext grade plywood. Since the bed of the cargo area has numerous ridges and pockets, I separated the foam liner from the rubber mat and used the foam as a liner under the plywood and is good for leveling. That offered very good sound proofing from road noise. The sound proofing on the ceiling, doors and rear side panels is very helpful. The only noticeable noise I pick up now is from the slider panels that I painted. I need to work on that. Another poster added a thin layer of liner used for wood flooring installs to the panel and that seemed to work out nicely.

The scrapyard I purchased the parts from was far enough away that it was cheaper to pay them to pull the parts and ship them to me than for me to drive out and pull the parts myself. I don't know the actual part numbers; I just called the scrapyard and told them what I wanted: both the 60 and 40 parts of the seat (some scrapyards will sell them separate), including the metal anchors that go behind them on the floor; the right and left seat belts that go with the seats (the center belt is built into the 60 part of the seat); and the plastic steps that go between the seats and the doors, which are shaped differently than the ones that go with the false floor. Based on how easy it was to install everything (just bolted right in), I suspect it was pretty easy to pull the parts. I'm guessing the crux of removing them was pulling the paneling off the walls to get at the seat belts or ripping up the floor to get at the anchors behind the seats. After that, it's just a matter of having the right size socket wrench. Speaking of which, the bolts that came with the seat belt pillar loops were T40 torx - same as the bolts in the false floor I had to remove to install the seat (see Mike Chell's post for details).

Dandytc New Transit Connect Member T.C. Member 1 9 posts Region:Canada British Columbia Location:Metro Vancouver Current Vehicle:2015 TC XLT wagon hatchback Posted December 14 · Report post When I first got my TC, I couldn't find a cord for the block heater, and ended up thinking that there was none. After reading recent posts, I checked my owner's manual, and it doesn't say "If equipped" under the "Engine block heater" title page 117, so I took another look, and sure enough, there it was. The reason I didn't find it previously, is because I was looking for a cord that looked like the one in my previous vehicle (Ford Focus wagon), which was a flat 3 conductor cord with a plug at the end, much like a regular household HD cord. The cord on the TC is wrapped with corrugated loom, and the plug is round. The whole thing was hiding under another loom to the right of the air filter. I would think that a block heater might be standard in colder regions in the US as well. I hope the pics will help some of you find theirs.

A secure, yet easily reversible way to mount any GPS in your 2014, 15, 16 (17?) TC 4 pieces required. A RAM cradle to fit your particular GPS, a 1" ball mount adapter for the cradle, a round 1" ball mount adapter to bolt to the dash and a 2 1/2" double ball connector If you use 4-40 screws, nuts and washers, you can bolt the round 1" ball to the removable dash cover without drilling any holes, which means you can remove it later with no damage to the dash Don

Here's the post I did on the fluid change it should make every thing very Clear

Just don't end up with your van sounding like an anemic Fast & Furious Honda. And if you put stickers all over, I will slap you. Stickers do not increase horsepower.