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Picked up my 2014 wagon last fall. The backup camera quit working about a month ago, showing the "backup camera not available" message. I found that the camera fuse, F29 in the auxiliary panel at the right rear side, was blown. Replacing the fuse resulted in an immediately blown fuse upon powering up the van. This tells us we have a hard short somewhere in that wire. Picked up a copy of the wiring diagrams to see if I could troubleshoot the issue. The power runs from fuse F29 in the right rear, up to the front of the van, crosses over, and then runs down the left side to the Image Processing Module above the left rear wheel well. If your van is like mine, and does not have parking/collision sensors, this is apparently a single continuous run of thin blue wire! This might be one of the longest runs in the van. Finding this short would likely require disassembling much of the interior. I was able to rule out any issues with the wiring between the module/door hinge/camera by unplugging the connectors for these. I would still blow a fuse in all scenarios. Since I could easily see/access the thin blue wire at the fuse panel and module connector, I decided to just create a new power run that goes under the trim panel at the back doors. This has successfully fixed the issue, camera is working again. I'm still using the 5A fuse in the panel, and used a 16ga wire, which is much thicker wire & insulation than the original. I don't think it will get pinched under the trim panel, but we're fused so I'm not worried if it should. Connections at both ends were done with solder and shrink tubing, so this repair should be good for quite some time. Repair pics show the insulating blanket that I've used for sweat soldering copper plumbing. I didn't want to risk melting any trim panels with solder drips or the heat gun.

I know this is late, But i got it fixed. Just wanted to update.. There's a box under the dash on passenger side. It is where the USB cable goes. Not sure the name of this module, But i found that disconnecting it for a few min, must have reset it. I plugged it back in, and haven't had any more issues with it.

That's what I am thinking.

Hi folks, In the course of a hardwired dashcam installation on my cargo XL, I needed to find a fuse that was ignition-switched in the passenger compartment fuse box (behind the glove compartment). I tested a few and here's what I chose: - The ignition-switched fuse I tapped was #3, "parking assist control module". - For constant power, I chose #23, "audio unit". Hope this helps someone! I believe it may also apply to 2019, 2020, 2022, and 2023 models at least.

Mirror two-piece adaper OEM style

NO, for the Transit steering wheel. Maybe, but probably not for the Escape. TC, Focus and Escape are built on the same platform but are not exact duplicates of each other. You would need to compare the wiring diagrams to ensure the connectors are the same and the steering wheel controls for the same (cruise control, radio control and menu control).

Let's see if this works. First post after introducing myself. I decided to create a little more room in my 2017 T.C. The front 1/3 of the cargo floor is a false floor !!! I hope this helps someone else.

Thanks a lot! I read related posts including this one many times, and finally I realized that the seats I bought are for short wheel base models. So be aware my friends, do not get seats like these if your van is a long wheel base model. Now I am gonna take the harder route to make these seats fit no matter what it takes, cutting, welding, etc. Challenges are annoying but also fun. Cheers!

Junkyard replacement will likely have no side airbags or ways to connect to your TC sensors/computer. I love mine, but agree that long drives are not the most comfy. Hope you find the solution.

Trans fluid check and flush. It will take 12 -14 qts to do it .

You're replying to my question about what year/model. My van is a 2015 Cargo, similar to your 2018. See the link below for a discussion about sound proofing. Also consider adding in a storage hatch in the foot well area if that's not on your mod list. It's great having the extra place to stash things. There are multiple threads discussing this mod besides the one below. Good luck!

@paddy - welcome to the forum. Where are you located? I added a storage compartment many years ago. It's a wonderful upgrade and I highly recommend it. There are several threads on this forum that detail this upgrade from multiple forumites. Search and you will find more details. The deck extension is made up of three parts. See pic below for more detail. The base is a bracket bolted to the floor, two or four bolts, can't remember. The other two pieces are decking that can be removed individually. Only about 26 bolts, not that bad. Lastly and most import, not sure where you are located but this deck extension configuration is only for US based sales. Our friends to the north in Canada have indicated that their vans have this extension welded in place. I'm assuming that holds true for all sales outside the US, included Europe. The reason is because Ford wanted to skirt the Chicken Tax on imports to the US and needed to quickly be able to convert a wagon config for 2nd row seating to a cargo model. It wouldn't make sense building the van in the factory this way otherwise. Best of luck!

Depends on your climate you're planning to protect for, but if you're going to camp in high temperature climates there's definitely a case to be made for minimal/lower R-value insulation over too much/higher R-value. Not to mention not wanting to encroach too much on the limited living space. Basically, it's easier to warm up with a heater in a cooler climate than it is to cool down the inside air, but more importantly, all of the metal surfaces, which after a hot day which can hinder getting to sleep. I'm not really convinced that stuffing insulation in-between channels really does all that much due to the heat transfer from conduction of the various metal structures that typically extend beyond the stuffed areas.That said, I've found it important to, at the very least, cover what metal surfaces you can with carpeting, especially near the areas where you are sleeping (think radiating cold metal at night). I went with a combination of 3M Thinsulate of varying thicknesses for different areas, cheap expanded foam I could cut up and use in some areas too that you'd get for quick flooring in the garage or whatever. I also used a reflectix equivalent when I could maintain an air gap or insulation barrier to help retain radiant heat from the propane heater. Also came across a different insulation product that looked interesting after my build which looks easy to use with self-adhering properties that might be worth checking out if you can source it: http://www.armacell.us/products/aparmaflexsaaparmaflexfssa-duct/

I just installed a factory hitch yesterday, the plastic bumper comes off easy. Remove the screws that you already did then start pulling the bumper off from the front near the wheels, all the clips will pop off. Also if you need factory beam that will replace the hitch that is now under the bumper I have it for now until I take all my scrap metal to the scrap yard

Thanks BONE. For sound proofing, I used two layers per the mfg recommendations. For the ceiling and doors (sliders and rear), I used Kilmat 50mil butyl sheets (one 50sft ft box) as a lightweight option. The Noico 80mil butyl sheet material was my first choice but after feeling how heavy the sheets are, I switched to the Kilmat 50, which are much lighter than the Noico 80. I used the Noico 80mil (one 36sq ft box) for the cargo area flooring and also the rear upper side panels. The second layer for all surfaces was Noico 150mil liner sold in rolls, which provides a combination of sound proofing and insulation (two 36sq ft boxes). It's now in 170mil rolls. Buy the Noico roller and expect to spend a lot of time doing the install. The ceiling work is tiring working above your head. As I said above, I'm not sure the sound proofing on the flooring areas is very effective. After I removed the rubber cargo mat I fitted a 5/8" sheet of ext grade plywood. Since the bed of the cargo area has numerous ridges and pockets, I separated the foam liner from the rubber mat and used the foam as a liner under the plywood and is good for leveling. That offered very good sound proofing from road noise. The sound proofing on the ceiling, doors and rear side panels is very helpful. The only noticeable noise I pick up now is from the slider panels that I painted. I need to work on that. Another poster added a thin layer of liner used for wood flooring installs to the panel and that seemed to work out nicely.