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Let's see if this works. First post after introducing myself. I decided to create a little more room in my 2017 T.C. The front 1/3 of the cargo floor is a false floor !!! I hope this helps someone else.

5x108.

For sale custom-made Ford Transit Connect motorcycle hauling platform. This fits the first generation Transit Connect from 2010 to 2013. This was a 3/16" aluminum custom-made platform to haul my race bike to the track. It fits bikes up to 80" long. The front wheel is held in place by a condor wheel chock. The wheel chock has been modified to bridge over the transmission housing in the van. Holes are drilled so that the stock seat hardware can be used to hold down the platform as well as the cargo tie downs in the back. It is very secure. This was actually featured in Motorcyclist magazine in 2011. $600 obo (probably can't ship this unless someone wants to arrange all of the logistics). I am in the SF Bay Area and can meet anyone for a local sale. I also have a Ford OEM service manual for the first generation Ford Transit Connect. This is a paper printed manual not a CD or something. $40 I have a set of brand new rear brake shoes never installed. $40 I have all three motor mounts brand new OEM. So if your transit is getting a lot of vibrations it might be time to renew the mounts. $60

You're replying to my question about what year/model. My van is a 2015 Cargo, similar to your 2018. See the link below for a discussion about sound proofing. Also consider adding in a storage hatch in the foot well area if that's not on your mod list. It's great having the extra place to stash things. There are multiple threads discussing this mod besides the one below. Good luck!

@paddy - welcome to the forum. Where are you located? I added a storage compartment many years ago. It's a wonderful upgrade and I highly recommend it. There are several threads on this forum that detail this upgrade from multiple forumites. Search and you will find more details. The deck extension is made up of three parts. See pic below for more detail. The base is a bracket bolted to the floor, two or four bolts, can't remember. The other two pieces are decking that can be removed individually. Only about 26 bolts, not that bad. Lastly and most import, not sure where you are located but this deck extension configuration is only for US based sales. Our friends to the north in Canada have indicated that their vans have this extension welded in place. I'm assuming that holds true for all sales outside the US, included Europe. The reason is because Ford wanted to skirt the Chicken Tax on imports to the US and needed to quickly be able to convert a wagon config for 2nd row seating to a cargo model. It wouldn't make sense building the van in the factory this way otherwise. Best of luck!

Depends on your climate you're planning to protect for, but if you're going to camp in high temperature climates there's definitely a case to be made for minimal/lower R-value insulation over too much/higher R-value. Not to mention not wanting to encroach too much on the limited living space. Basically, it's easier to warm up with a heater in a cooler climate than it is to cool down the inside air, but more importantly, all of the metal surfaces, which after a hot day which can hinder getting to sleep. I'm not really convinced that stuffing insulation in-between channels really does all that much due to the heat transfer from conduction of the various metal structures that typically extend beyond the stuffed areas.That said, I've found it important to, at the very least, cover what metal surfaces you can with carpeting, especially near the areas where you are sleeping (think radiating cold metal at night). I went with a combination of 3M Thinsulate of varying thicknesses for different areas, cheap expanded foam I could cut up and use in some areas too that you'd get for quick flooring in the garage or whatever. I also used a reflectix equivalent when I could maintain an air gap or insulation barrier to help retain radiant heat from the propane heater. Also came across a different insulation product that looked interesting after my build which looks easy to use with self-adhering properties that might be worth checking out if you can source it: http://www.armacell.us/products/aparmaflexsaaparmaflexfssa-duct/

2017 Focus is a 55mm offset. 2010 TC is 53mm offset. Center bore is 63.4 for both. Eh ... close enuf, eh.

Thanks BONE. For sound proofing, I used two layers per the mfg recommendations. For the ceiling and doors (sliders and rear), I used Kilmat 50mil butyl sheets (one 50sft ft box) as a lightweight option. The Noico 80mil butyl sheet material was my first choice but after feeling how heavy the sheets are, I switched to the Kilmat 50, which are much lighter than the Noico 80. I used the Noico 80mil (one 36sq ft box) for the cargo area flooring and also the rear upper side panels. The second layer for all surfaces was Noico 150mil liner sold in rolls, which provides a combination of sound proofing and insulation (two 36sq ft boxes). It's now in 170mil rolls. Buy the Noico roller and expect to spend a lot of time doing the install. The ceiling work is tiring working above your head. As I said above, I'm not sure the sound proofing on the flooring areas is very effective. After I removed the rubber cargo mat I fitted a 5/8" sheet of ext grade plywood. Since the bed of the cargo area has numerous ridges and pockets, I separated the foam liner from the rubber mat and used the foam as a liner under the plywood and is good for leveling. That offered very good sound proofing from road noise. The sound proofing on the ceiling, doors and rear side panels is very helpful. The only noticeable noise I pick up now is from the slider panels that I painted. I need to work on that. Another poster added a thin layer of liner used for wood flooring installs to the panel and that seemed to work out nicely.