Jump to content
   

windguy

T.C. Member
  • Content Count

    943
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    48

Everything posted by windguy

  1. windguy

    ForScan

    Thanks for the input. I remember one poster saying his BCM software changed in ETIS after having the dealer make the update so I guess it's not a reliable indicator. That would be cool if you can report back about your BCM module config. Maybe we'll learn something. Good luck getting your laptop back online. Curious, when was your van built? Sounds like mid 2015. My 2015 was built in October 2014. Regarding your battery, that's interesting. About the same age but many more miles for your van. I realize this is the Forscan thread, but did you have the Ford dealer install an OEM battery? I've taken the plastic battery cover off before but not with the thought of how to replace the battery. When I setup the battery charger, I realized what was discussed on other battery threads in that the battery is a pain in the butt to remove. It's really tucked under the cowling to where you can't even access the ground terminal. If the cost differential is minimal I'll probably opt to have Ford take care of it to save myself the frustration and skin on my knuckles.
  2. windguy

    ForScan

    Thanks for the info Don. Very helpful to know. I will save the as-built data for all modules to have as a baseline. That may save my bacon one day. Appreciate the tip. Will check out the tutorial you linked in. Appreciate the help as always!
  3. windguy

    ForScan

    Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear that. I'm was ready to follow Hollenback's procedure to check out my BCM config to see what's going on with the approach lights. My scenario is identical to yours with two different dealer visits (twice per for a total of four attempts) and promises in both cases that the BCM was updated. It's very interesting that you still are not able to get this change to stick. I fear I won't we able to change the setting as well but I'll still try. I think Donuts is right in that your BCM wasn't actually updated. Ford ETIS never showed it was for my van. I can't remember if you mentioned yours changed in ETIS. This discussion was in the "approach light" thread and it's been a while. So how do you check the BCM software version in Forscan and verify that the SSM update was done? "reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher". Below is a screen shot that shows the BCM As-built config. My van shows BCM Calibration DV6T-14C095-BH. Maybe other Forscan users can check their BCM config and report back along with the build date of their van.
  4. windguy

    ForScan

    Thanks Don - appreciate the quick reply and info. Your confirmation gave me the confidence to continue exploring but with the battery charger connected going forward. I had a better session today and saved the BCM and IPC as-built configurations as a starting point before I make any changes. Also took a screen shot so I could save it in readable text format. I've got a question regarding what Forscan shows in the as-built config versus what Motorcraft was showing for the IPC Module. Below is screenshot of both. In comparison, Forscan doesn't show all the registers but does show a few extra ones in the upper range (720-24-01 and 720-25-01) that didn't show up on the Motorcraft site. Wonder why? Also, what are the Restore and Write boxes to the right of several of the registers? I'm assuming those are the only ones that Forscan will allow you to change. Thanks!
  5. windguy

    ForScan

    Your tutorial is awesome and much appreciated. It's a great starting point to figuring out how to navigate Forscan. This past week I had two sessions using Forscan trying to familiarize myself with its use. It's a pretty nifty program. I've explored some of the options but need more time using it before I'm comfortable with its nuances. The first session was with the basic level of Forscan. I quickly learned that you really need the Extended License or EL2 version. You have to join the Forscan Forum to get that download but it's an easy process and worthwhile doing is you want to explore all things Forscan. During my second session, after about 1/2 hour of use, I was attempting to save an 'as built' configuration as a first step to further checking out a few modules (IPC and BCM) and Forscan told me the battery voltage was 8.X volts and if I want to continue. What? Really? I closed out the program and tried to start the van and the battery was indeed too low to start the van. I got a bit nervous thinking the ELM adapter messed up the electronics somehow. I'm not very sophisticated these days when it comes to understanding what's going on under the hood so to speak. I connected a 10amp battery charger and it took about three hours to charge up the battery. The van started with no problems. Granted I don't use the van very much and hadn't turned it on in 10 days, but that infrequent use has never been a problem in the past. The battery is 4.5 years old now. I had the ignition switch in the second position to run Forscan and the daytime running lights are on the whole time, so that was draining the battery. Have other Forscan users run into battery issues? If I plan to use Forscan for an extended period of time should I first either run the engine a while or take it for a spin or connect the charger? Not sure if this was a one-time event or perhaps an indication that my battery is getting weaker. Curious how to proceed going forward. Thanks! BTW - I'm using the OHP ELM327 adapter as some other posters had gotten. Loading the drivers was a bit sketchy per OHP's website instructions but it works so far. https://www.amazon.com/OHP-ELMconfig-Adapter-Compatible-Diagnostics/dp/B01F0GVBWY
  6. windguy

    Footwell Lighting?

    Has anyone added or considered adding lighting for the footwell area? My 2015 XLT Cargo doesn't have any lighting down there and it sure is dark. Would be nice to have sometimes. Just a thought.
  7. windguy

    Footwell Lighting?

    @Don Ridley - Great write-up for this mod. Appreciate the detailed info and pics. Thanks for sharing your expertise. Combined with Stanger_missle's notes on taking out the glove box I think I can take on this project.
  8. windguy

    Footwell Lighting?

    @stanger_missle - You (and David Parker) are right about the dark interior. I never thought about that as being a factor but it makes sense. Thanks for sharing your input on how to make this mod. I remember another poster reporting about damage to the hinges when removing the glovebox so your tips are helpful. I think you're ready to add some footwell lights on your van. Then you can share your notes and expertise.
  9. @Don R - nice job on this new mod. You're upping your game with a higher degree of difficulty and technology. Your insurance company should give you a rate discount for adding this safety feature.
  10. windguy

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    Thanks Don. Useful info. I had used some of those techniques earlier today and came up empty. Sure did find a lot of regular IPC's out there. Also saw a lot of pics of bashed in TC's, both generations. That's kind of interesting to see. I need to share a potentially scam situation. I stumbled on a website called USEDSPEEDOMETERS.COM https://www.usedspeedometers.com/ Seemed legit as they listed many of the familiar part numbers for different IPC configurations. I then used their search tool to get a quote entering phone number, zip code and email. I get two phone calls a few minutes later and this woman left a voice message in very hard to understand, garbled, heavily accented English asking me to call her back to discuss the details and that she has the part I need. I checked out the number she left and the caller ID number, different, and it appears that this "company" is fishing for personal info under the guise of offering used auto parts as others have reported. 312-509-4975 and 888-824-3048. The phone number offered on the website is for AAA Parts in San Diego per BBB. That same 800 number comes up under a lot of different used parts website just like the one above. The whole thing was very strange in what appeared to be a promising lead. I'll keep searching when I'm inspired. I do wonder if the FT1T part would work in a 2014/15 model or at least what the differences are to the DT1T part.
  11. windguy

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    @Beta Don - thanks for the info. That part number info is consistent with what has posted earlier. Helpful to know. I've looked for that same part number a few times and came up empty but didn't push very hard. Will keep your search pointers in mind to make sure I get what I need.
  12. windguy

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    That's very cool Don - I'm jealous. Yeah, I second that Don R is a rock star with his mod work and helpful write-ups. What year is your TC? What part number IPC did you get and where'd you source it?
  13. windguy

    Footwell Lighting?

    Thanks Don. Appreciate the reply and info. Do you like the amount of light it throws out? I'm looking for utility light more than mood lighting. If I drop something onto the floor mat I need a flashlight to find it. Can you explain a bit more in what you did for some of us modification mortals? I'm going to need more hand-holding to take on this mod. Especially if I need to remove the glove box to gain access to the BCM. If you haven't done one of your great Don write-ups, perhaps you can on this thread or start your own and we'll link it as a reference. Some questions: The requirement in selecting lights should be 12VDC, not 5VDC, right? Are LED strips better than a low profile light or one that can be recessed? What exactly are you connecting to behind the glove box? How is that connection made at the Body Control Module? If you had to do it again, what would you do differently?
  14. windguy

    Liftgate release switch upgrade

    Got it, thanks. Must be the same as what I have. That's a pretty slick upgrade.
  15. windguy

    Liftgate release switch upgrade

    @Don Ridley - nice job! I'm not familiar with the liftgate option. What did the original switch look like?
  16. windguy

    Cornucopia of problems. I need therapy.

    RIP "Sexy Beast". Vaya con Dios. What's the name for your new van?
  17. FORUM RACK THREADS Before sharing my install notes, I thought it would be useful to reference the Gen 2 threads I found regarding roof racks and rails. There may be more. The first one I found to be most useful when I started researching rack options even before I ordered my van. For my cargo van I wasn't able to order factory rails and the cost from Ford parts to add them after delivery was crazy expensive. Aftermarket tracks and racks would be my only reasonable option. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/2406-roof-attachment-points-on-2014-transit-connect/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6322-cross-bars-for-2017-tc-wagon/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5542-diy-roof-rack-for-under100/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6179-roof-rack-cross-bars/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4245-can-you-add-roof-rack-rails/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5305-factory-roof-rails-revisited/ MY INSTALL I finally got around to adding tracks and a rack setup for my 2015 TC XLT LWB Cargo and want to share my install. I did the install a few months ago so some of the details are a bit fuzzy at this point. I didn’t have an immediate need for racks but wanted to have them available in case the need arises. Primary use will be to offload windsurf/surfboards from inside the van to the roof rack when I need more space inside. I decided to get all rack parts made by Yakima rather than cobbling them from different sources. My understanding is that the track design is universal from Thule, Yakima, Van-tech and others. Yakima rack items are expensive and price fixed, but they appear to be well made and integrate well. A few times a year it seems Yakima allows its resellers to discount their items up to 20% off, so that’s the best time to buy if you’re price conscious. MOUNTING HOLES The TC has five mounting holes on each side. The holes are covered with a black plastic plug that you can easily remove using a plier from the inside by squeezing the side tabs together or I’m sure you can lever it out with a screw driver from the roof side. The back four plugs are easily accessible from the cargo area. The front plug is shielded behind the cab area roof liner. I’m not sure how this myth got started that you can’t use the front mounting hole because of the side curtain airbags. We all know that the factory rails are using this mounting point as the rails extend the full length of the rain gutter. I used a flashlight to peek behind the headliner to see the forward mounting hole. Not sure how to describe this but there is a flange extending from the side of the roof that projects out and shields the mounting hole from the airbag. You can see the air bag folded up and sitting well below this flange. Perhaps 4-5 inches between the mounting hole, then the flange, then air bag. The front mounting hole doesn’t appear to be affected by the air bag unless I’m grossly missing something. Wish I could take a picture but it would be hard to capture in a tight dark space. You would have to remove the headliner if you want to use this mounting hole unless you can wrangle in some type of captive nut from the roof side. I don’t think it’s worth that effort unless you really need to have a wide spread for your cross bars. Also, the roof starts sloping down more as you get closer to the front so that’s another consideration. I considered drilling my own hole that was more forward but ruled that out as there is extra plating in areas around the rain gutter and thought best just to adapt to using the existing four holes. TRACKS I ended up getting 6ft long tracks, but in hindsight 5 footers would have been just fine. I didn’t want to end up too short and thought I can add my own mounting holes but I would recommend going with the 5ft option. Verify the exact length before ordering. Plus, the 6ft track from Yakima is hard to find online. I was able to get them at a semi-local pickup truck shell installer as they use these for their installs. You can order the 5ft rails from any Yakima reseller. The tracks come with mounting hardware, either plusnuts or capnuts. The place I got my tracks from told me I’d be better off using my own hardware, but I wish I had taken the install bag of hardware with capnuts. It’s hard to find capnuts in the thread size I wanted and I ended up harvesting some from an old fluorescent light fixture. Capnuts vs Plusnuts Comparison https://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=Y8810155&pc2=Y8810102 MOUNTING THE TRACKS The tracks come with end caps that you would normally be held in place using a mounting hole. Because the van mounting holes didn’t line up with this, I used a short stainless steel bolt and nut to hold the front end cap in place. I didn’t use the rear cap since I want to be able to remove the landing pad nuts that sit in the channel of the track without having to remove the cap. For bolts I used stainless steel 8-32 threaded bolts to match the capnuts I found. Two bolts were ¾” (back holes) and two were 1” (front holes). On the inside I used a 3/16 x 1” fender washer because the hole opening is pretty large and I wanted a large diameter washer. The forward two mounting holes are hard to get to on the inside due to the slider track framing. It’s a two person job to hold the bolt and get the washers and nuts in place. That’s why a capnut is useful. I drilled my own mounting holes in the tracks so they’d line up with the existing mounting holes in the roof. Because the mounting holes in the roof are rather large, I used a 3/16 x 1 ¼ “ neoprene washer to seal up the hole opening. Before mounting, I applied an ample amount of DAP Auto/Marine sealant around the hole opening and then put the neoprene washers in place. Also used the sealant around the bolt threads and on the inside fender washer. CROSSBARS The Yakima and Thule systems use a landing pad that mounts to the track using two bolts and nuts that sit in channel in the track. You can remove the landing pads if your racks aren’t being used all the time but I think it’s easier to leave them in place. Yakima provides caps to cover the landing pad and it sticks up few inches above the tracks, not a big issue. The cross bars attach to the landing pads using a tower. For the Yakima system, the Skyline towers are used for this setup. You can also order a set of locks called SKS cores that are very easy to install and help secure your rack in place. The cross bars and tower can easily be removed together when not in use. I went for 60” wide cross bars. Yakima offers three types of crossbars. The round ones are the original style and the other two are of an aero design. I went with the Corebar aero style for reduced noise. I considered the round style with the thought of adding some type of roller that would make it easy get something large on the roof, like a sheet of plywood. ITEMS ORDERED Below is a list of the items I ordered. I got mine from rackattack.com since they had all items in stock with free shipping and 20% off at the time. Total cost around $540 plus misc hardware and sealant. As I said, Yakima is expensive even when it’s on sale. Best to verify part numbers as things may have changed since I ordered. Tracks: Yakima 72”, #8001607, set of 2 (the 60” track with capnuts is #8001135) Landing Pads: Yakima Landing Pad 1, #8000221, 2 sets of 2 Towers: Yakima Skyline Tower, #8000148, set of 4 Crossbars: Yakima 60-inch Corebar with endcaps, #800422, set of 2 Locks: Yakima SKS Cores, #8007204, 4-pack
  18. Sure, you can mount your crossbars to fixed mounting points, as shown in your video link. Looks like a clean solution. I opted with tracks for two reasons: I wanted the flexibility in setting the crossbars and to be able to remove the crossbars and towers since the racks will rarely be used. I'm not familiar with the rack system in the video but if you can remove the crossbars and towers and leave the mounting pads in place then that would be helpful if you don't plan to use the racks on a daily basis. If it's seasonal use then you leave the racks on and remove them in the off season. All depends on how you plan to use your rack system. As I said in my original post, Thule and Yakima are price fixed products. If you are price sensitive and not in a hurry, then wait for the occasional 20% off sale that comes up on holidays and special events. I get emails from rackattack.com with their promotions so you can get on the email list from these places to find out when they have their next sale.
  19. windguy

    fueling auto stop going off prematurely

    YES - It's one of my top annoyances with my 2015 Cargo TC. Sometimes it's like trying to fill a portable gas can. I assumed it partly has something to do with emissions design of the pumps here in Southern California combined with a lousy filler design by Ford. I don't have the same problem with other or past cars so it's a TC thing for sure. Also don't like the fact that the filler door doesn't lock. Some pumps are way worse than others to the point that you have to push hard and continue to apply pressure or it will pop out and shutoff. I like to set the automatic fill lever and step away from the van so I'm no sucking up the gas fumes. Can't do that with the TC. I try to remember which pumps are less troublesome. I have one at my local Mobil that works better than most others but I still have to hover. Thankfully I don't put a lot of miles on the van so I'm not filling up very often. I have to be mindful of about how much fuel I need to add so I don't risk overfilling the tank. I have it in my head you're not supposed to do that with this van. Never sure if a pump shutoff means the tank is full or the pump is being twitchy. It's a process I've learned to live with but never happy with.
  20. windguy

    oil change on the 2014 TC

    I didn't know you can do that. Thanks for asking about that. The oil change message came on recently so good timing. After turning ignition on partly, I pushed both pedals all the way down and after a few seconds, the message came up that it's resetting. After about 15 seconds the resetting was complete. This van sure has some weird hidden tricks for doing things that Ford doesn't advertise. Same deal when I had to sync up the added keypad with the fobs.
  21. windguy

    Upgrade instrument cluster 2016

    BTW - check out the pic below of the dash for the 2019 TC that I grabbed from the Ford website. I like this design a lot better and wish I had it. Visibility to gauges is much improved.
×