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windguy

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Everything posted by windguy

  1. Just read an article on MSN linked below about the problems with this transmission. Sounds like a nightmare. Anyone else been following this? Glad the Gen 2 TC has a different transmission = 6F35. Not sure what the Gen 1 model has. https://www.msn.com/en-us/money/companies/ford-knew-focus-fiesta-had-flawed-transmission-sold-them-anyway/ar-AAEb0x6
  2. windguy

    Introducing myself..

    @Lynn - Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new TC. You did great on your starting your first thread and even posted a picture. Nice job! Looks like you've got some interesting projects in the works. There's a separate discussion section for MODS, so please keep us updated on what you're doing. Make sure you can easily get to the jack, just in case. I never realized that with some other forumites who have shared their camper builds. In fact, one guy recently shoe horned in a shelving unit. There's no way he's going to be able to get to the jack easily. Maybe he already had that figured out. There is ample storage space under the deck where the second row seating footwell would normally be in a wagon model. In case you haven't figured this out or read about it on this forum, that would be very useful to add for extra storage.
  3. Interesting link below. Westfalia does some really slick innovative camper mods. https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/westfalia-ford-nugget-transit-camper-van-conversion-is-vantastic/ar-AAH6mRu?li=BBnb4R5#image=AAH68gb|1 Europe gets all the cool vehicles and the US gets squat. Why is that? Perhaps Europe has a greater appreciation for doing more with a smaller size vehicle and in the U.S. the bigger is better mentality prevails. As long as gas is plentiful and inexpensive we'll never change our ways and the market will just fuel that inefficiency. At least our small Transit Connect tribe is bucking that trend. Good for us!
  4. I spend a fair amount of time in the back of my cargo van while at the beach with the barn doors open. The thought crossed my feeble mind yesterday when I was putting gear away after a sailing session that it would be nice to have some music. I'm pretty green when it comes to anything high tech and audio systems. I wouldn't need anything fancy or high end. I'm not looking to draw any attention to my van. Just basic radio station music or perhaps off of a thumb drive if reception is poor and adding an antenna would be too difficult. Obviously a portable radio would probably work okay but I'm adverse to using batteries and having something floating around and not mounted. My thought was to mount some type of radio in the back (not sure where) and add a pair of speakers either on the upper grey side panels above the wire baskets (see pic below) or in the rear door inserts if it's easy to put speaker wires through the door conduit. The only hitch with mounting on the rear doors is that the speaker could get wet because I shower off in this area and the wind often sprays the water towards the van doors. I've got 12VDC power in the back that I can tap off of. The doors and side panels already have sound proofing (two layers) so that should reduce any vibration or tinny sound from the speakers. Has anyone else thought about doing this or added one themselves? If I put a radio in, I'm assuming I would need some type of antenna? Appreciate any thoughts or advice from the audio gurus. Thanks!
  5. windguy

    CARGO AREA RADIO?

    Thanks Guys. Appreciate the help. I will source a roll of 16awg copper wire.
  6. windguy

    CARGO AREA RADIO?

    Thanks Don. Appreciate the advice. Removing the spade connectors and soldering the wire directly to the speaker lug would be a sure thing. The speaker lug even has a hole in it to loop the wire through. I really like this idea. Regarding better wire, I've been waffling on doing this but considering the amount of time I'll be spending to snake the wire from the doors to the side jack area, upgrading the speaker wire is probably a good idea. The speaker wire that came with the speakers is, I'm guessing, 20awg. The speaker wire pigtails coming off the amp/control unit also seems to be around 20awg. Is there any penalty for going with a heavier gauge wire, like 16awg or 14awg? The speakers are rated at 4 Ohm - 100w max (50w RMS) Any suggestions on speaker wire to get (copper, CCA)? I found this 14awg roll of CCA linked below at Amazon. It says 30ft but it's actually 15ft x 2 strands. Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Speaker-Touch-Cable/dp/B01CSZUSLA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Thanks for the help!
  7. windguy

    CARGO AREA RADIO?

    I need to mount a 4" round speaker on each rear barn door and run the speaker wires through the door conduit. Has anyone removed the black plastic cover over the wiper motors, as shown below? I'm assuming you use a socket and remove the three nuts and the cover slips off the studs. Figured it's best to ask first before creating any collateral damage. Another question about wiring to the speakers. The Pyle speaker set I got came with 10ft of speaker wire for each speaker. One end of the cable has a small spade connector to mate to the lug on the speakers. The problem is that the spade connector doesn't sit very tightly on the speaker lug. It can get knocked off very easily with the movement of the door. Looking for suggestions on how to best to lock that in. My first thought is to take needle nose pliers and crimp it a bit but don't want to distort the connector either since it looks pretty thin and flimsy. I guess I can also use some type of adhesive like loctite to keep it on place. Thanks!
  8. @drh14 - Cool that you may have found a potential van to buy. I have a cargo van so I can't help you with the Titanium in terms of any specific maintenance issues with that model. Perhaps other forumites can assist you with that. The 2014 is the first production year, mine is a 2015, and I had early issues with the left front drive shaft seal leaking. There was an SSM covering this. This is something to ask about. The van's powertrain warranty is 5 years or 60,000 miles so it's a narrow window to getting that fixed under warranty if it's an issue. if the van is still eligible year wise. Good luck in your search!
  9. @Rr896 - Thanks for the update and sharing your experience. Glad you were able to get your problem resolved and your locks are functioning again. A friend once told me that if you can fix a problem by writing a check then it's really not a problem. It's an easy solution. It's a wise take on a how to handle troubling situations.
  10. @drh14 - Welcome to the forum. Hopefully you'll be part of the TC family soon. Take your time finding the right van for you. It will happen. You've received some good personal experiences from other TC owners on this forum that I agree with for the most part. I do have to say that regarding the Turn Radius for a LWB model, it's not very good when you need to make a u-turn in the road. It may be just a function of the long wheel base, not sure. I have to do a u-turn often off a coastal highway from the middle turn lane and I need more than two lanes of road to turn around, so if there are cars parked on the shoulder, I need to swing it wide first or I won't make it. It needs to be a fast and clean maneuver. Not a show stopper but just a detail you need to be ready for if it's part of your driving routine. Parking is pretty easy if you have the front and rear parking assist sensors and a back up camera. Windows all around on the wagon model will also help you. There are lots of threads on this forum discussing camper mods to wagon models with some really unique and cool designs and craftsmanship. Plenty to get your started on your own design. Please keep us posted on your search for your TC. Looking forward to seeing your new van. Good luck.
  11. Ha! Maybe I'm wrong. I thought I was once told after service that it wasn't working but I didn't care as I don't use it. Then again it could have been a previous car so we'll just call it a senior moment and move on. But now I'm curious too.
  12. Nice job Don. Thanks for sharing. My 2015 barn door washer stopped working also but I never use it. Never use the front washer either. Clean the front and rear glass when I get gas but I can see when it's required.
  13. windguy

    BARN DOORS to Lift Gate

    @Loop79 - Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new van. Would love to see a few pics of your van to make it official. See the link below to what another forumite did for shade. That was a pretty nice setup with a barn door van. Adding shade to the back can be done many ways but knowing more about your specific situation(s) and requirements would be helpful. Example - will wind be an issue, beach use, camping use, tailgating in a parking lot.
  14. windguy

    91H vs 97H load rating

    I would go with the 97H rating and not deviate. I agree with other comments that the cost differential isn't worth the doubt you might have over the life of the tire. The Pirelli Cinturato Strada's that I recently got at at America's Tire I believe is the same as the Cinturato P7 that you mentioned. Difference in tread pattern is minimal with the same 70,000 mileage rating. Cost should be around $119 per tire. I'm sure there are other similar tire models to choose from and the differences are negligible. Regarding the Yokohama Tornante, did you see this discussion linked below? https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4999387/yokohama-tornante FORUM COMMENTS They started off as the Yokohama Avid TRZ, and were available just about everywhere. Then were discontinued as such and became the Tornante which are available now at limited stores. I have seen this before where a tire gets discontinued as a mainstream tire, and becomes a private label model. THE TORNANTE IS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT THE FOLLOWING TIRE DEALERSHIPS. Autotire Cheshire Tire Curry's Auto Ken Towery Monro Muffler/Brake Mr Tire The Tire Choice Tire Barn Tire Factory Tire Warehouse
  15. FORUM RACK THREADS Before sharing my install notes, I thought it would be useful to reference the Gen 2 threads I found regarding roof racks and rails. There may be more. The first one I found to be most useful when I started researching rack options even before I ordered my van. For my cargo van I wasn't able to order factory rails and the cost from Ford parts to add them after delivery was crazy expensive. Aftermarket tracks and racks would be my only reasonable option. http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/2406-roof-attachment-points-on-2014-transit-connect/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6322-cross-bars-for-2017-tc-wagon/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5542-diy-roof-rack-for-under100/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6179-roof-rack-cross-bars/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/4245-can-you-add-roof-rack-rails/ http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/5305-factory-roof-rails-revisited/ MY INSTALL I finally got around to adding tracks and a rack setup for my 2015 TC XLT LWB Cargo and want to share my install. I did the install a few months ago so some of the details are a bit fuzzy at this point. I didn’t have an immediate need for racks but wanted to have them available in case the need arises. Primary use will be to offload windsurf/surfboards from inside the van to the roof rack when I need more space inside. I decided to get all rack parts made by Yakima rather than cobbling them from different sources. My understanding is that the track design is universal from Thule, Yakima, Van-tech and others. Yakima rack items are expensive and price fixed, but they appear to be well made and integrate well. A few times a year it seems Yakima allows its resellers to discount their items up to 20% off, so that’s the best time to buy if you’re price conscious. MOUNTING HOLES The TC has five mounting holes on each side. The holes are covered with a black plastic plug that you can easily remove using a plier from the inside by squeezing the side tabs together or I’m sure you can lever it out with a screw driver from the roof side. The back four plugs are easily accessible from the cargo area. The front plug is shielded behind the cab area roof liner. I’m not sure how this myth got started that you can’t use the front mounting hole because of the side curtain airbags. We all know that the factory rails are using this mounting point as the rails extend the full length of the rain gutter. I used a flashlight to peek behind the headliner to see the forward mounting hole. Not sure how to describe this but there is a flange extending from the side of the roof that projects out and shields the mounting hole from the airbag. You can see the air bag folded up and sitting well below this flange. Perhaps 4-5 inches between the mounting hole, then the flange, then air bag. The front mounting hole doesn’t appear to be affected by the air bag unless I’m grossly missing something. Wish I could take a picture but it would be hard to capture in a tight dark space. You would have to remove the headliner if you want to use this mounting hole unless you can wrangle in some type of captive nut from the roof side. I don’t think it’s worth that effort unless you really need to have a wide spread for your cross bars. Also, the roof starts sloping down more as you get closer to the front so that’s another consideration. I considered drilling my own hole that was more forward but ruled that out as there is extra plating in areas around the rain gutter and thought best just to adapt to using the existing four holes. TRACKS I ended up getting 6ft long tracks, but in hindsight 5 footers would have been just fine. I didn’t want to end up too short and thought I can add my own mounting holes but I would recommend going with the 5ft option. Verify the exact length before ordering. Plus, the 6ft track from Yakima is hard to find online. I was able to get them at a semi-local pickup truck shell installer as they use these for their installs. You can order the 5ft rails from any Yakima reseller. The tracks come with mounting hardware, either plusnuts or capnuts. The place I got my tracks from told me I’d be better off using my own hardware, but I wish I had taken the install bag of hardware with capnuts. It’s hard to find capnuts in the thread size I wanted and I ended up harvesting some from an old fluorescent light fixture. Capnuts vs Plusnuts Comparison https://www.etrailer.com/comparison.aspx?pc=Y8810155&pc2=Y8810102 MOUNTING THE TRACKS The tracks come with end caps that you would normally be held in place using a mounting hole. Because the van mounting holes didn’t line up with this, I used a short stainless steel bolt and nut to hold the front end cap in place. I didn’t use the rear cap since I want to be able to remove the landing pad nuts that sit in the channel of the track without having to remove the cap. For bolts I used stainless steel 8-32 threaded bolts to match the capnuts I found. Two bolts were ¾” (back holes) and two were 1” (front holes). On the inside I used a 3/16 x 1” fender washer because the hole opening is pretty large and I wanted a large diameter washer. The forward two mounting holes are hard to get to on the inside due to the slider track framing. It’s a two person job to hold the bolt and get the washers and nuts in place. That’s why a capnut is useful. I drilled my own mounting holes in the tracks so they’d line up with the existing mounting holes in the roof. Because the mounting holes in the roof are rather large, I used a 3/16 x 1 ¼ “ neoprene washer to seal up the hole opening. Before mounting, I applied an ample amount of DAP Auto/Marine sealant around the hole opening and then put the neoprene washers in place. Also used the sealant around the bolt threads and on the inside fender washer. CROSSBARS The Yakima and Thule systems use a landing pad that mounts to the track using two bolts and nuts that sit in channel in the track. You can remove the landing pads if your racks aren’t being used all the time but I think it’s easier to leave them in place. Yakima provides caps to cover the landing pad and it sticks up few inches above the tracks, not a big issue. The cross bars attach to the landing pads using a tower. For the Yakima system, the Skyline towers are used for this setup. You can also order a set of locks called SKS cores that are very easy to install and help secure your rack in place. The cross bars and tower can easily be removed together when not in use. I went for 60” wide cross bars. Yakima offers three types of crossbars. The round ones are the original style and the other two are of an aero design. I went with the Corebar aero style for reduced noise. I considered the round style with the thought of adding some type of roller that would make it easy get something large on the roof, like a sheet of plywood. ITEMS ORDERED Below is a list of the items I ordered. I got mine from rackattack.com since they had all items in stock with free shipping and 20% off at the time. Total cost around $540 plus misc hardware and sealant. As I said, Yakima is expensive even when it’s on sale. Best to verify part numbers as things may have changed since I ordered. Tracks: Yakima 72”, #8001607, set of 2 (the 60” track with capnuts is #8001135) Landing Pads: Yakima Landing Pad 1, #8000221, 2 sets of 2 Towers: Yakima Skyline Tower, #8000148, set of 4 Crossbars: Yakima 60-inch Corebar with endcaps, #800422, set of 2 Locks: Yakima SKS Cores, #8007204, 4-pack
  16. That is a good question. The thread linked below talked about the plugs but no one shared a part number. Sorry I couldn't help but perhaps another forumite can access parts diagrams and find that for you. Do you need them for the holes in the cab area, cargo area or all holes? I think you can provision something on your own that would work equally well or perhaps be more water tight.
  17. windguy

    2017 TC XLT simple camper

    @desert_connect - great update. Glad to hear your camper connect design is coming together. Great job on putting those slider windows in. Your hard work is paying off nicely.
  18. @stanger_missle - Don't think you're overthinking this at all. You're just exploring the what ifs, which is cool. I too have a cargo van with only two speakers in the front doors. Below is a pic of the slider doors speaker mounts you're referring to. Your concerns about road noise are valid. I personally wouldn't bother mounting speakers there. I think that mounting point would be good if you had passengers in this area but it would be a waste otherwise. If you want music for the cab area, then that's where I'd add or upgrade speakers for better sound. If I spent more time in the van I would consider an audio upgrade. Good luck!
  19. windguy

    Thule Roof rack and ARB Awing

    Okay, no tracks on the roof. Then why do you care about the factory racks? How wide is your awning? Do you need to have roof racks for other purposes, other than the awning? If not, I would provision two or more mounting brackets for a low cost solution. You might be able to find brackets already made for a ladder rack application. The only downside is that they would be fixed in place when you're not using the awning. That's where a rail and removable foot has its advantage. You'll have to share more about your requirements.
  20. windguy

    Thule Roof rack and ARB Awing

    Do you factory tracks or nothing? Start by using the search feature of this forum. Try "ROOF RACKS". There are numerous threads to be found. One sample below.
  21. windguy

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    Would love to see a few snaps of your wagon. Please share. Regarding shopping around, I agree and disagree. It's always great to get a decent deal when buying something but there's something to be said for paying a little extra for quality work. Especially when it comes to auto repair and tires in this case. Same goes for other services like a contractor for instance. I used a low cost bidder once and it was a disaster. Many years ago I brought my wife's car to a tire shop with a flat tire. I had put the spare on and the tech worked on the car outside of the bay area using a floor jack. I watched the tech use an impact wrench and strip one of the studs. Totally his fault but the shop wouldn't back up their mistake and blamed me for cross threading the lug. I had to go to the dealer to get a new stud installed at my expense. Needless to say I didn't go back to this shop. I've had nothing but excellent service at America's Tire and now they have appointments. It took only 35 minutes to get the tires installed and they handed me the old valve stems in a baggie. Well worth a tip. Plus their pricing is always competitive so I don't worry about that. I value my time as much as the quality of work. At my last oil change the service writer at the local Ford dealer told me that my tire treads were low and need replacement @15,000 miles. I said okay, will you prorate the tires then. He gave me this blank stare and didn't answer. I said I'd email him for a quote, but never bothered and he never bothered contacting me.
  22. windguy

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    Thanks Bill. Glad to hear you like your Pirellis. Always fun when you make the right choice. I took my first trip to the beach yesterday with the new tires and put them through their normal paces. So far so good. There are two spots where I would always get wheel spin with the Cont's and did not have that at all. The Pirellis seem to have better grip and traction, especially on the curvy road. Not sure if that's going to translate into reduced MPG. Will see on that. As far as noise level, at first I thought they were just as noisy at the Cont's but over the course of the ride I'm thinking they might be a tad more quiet, but I think I'm just trading one noise for another as the cargo van is just a noisy vehicle to begin with. That same thing happened when I did some sound proofing. The noise source just shifted. Will keep an ear on that and see. Probably the only true way to test that is with a decibel meter of some sorts. Speaking of van level noise, when I went to get the tires mounted, I removed all my sailing/surf gear from both the hanging rack and cargo floor area so the van was gutted and it was noticeable noisier when it's empty. Having that gear in there really helps dampen and muffle the sound, which makes sense. Just a tidbit. Will report back when I put more miles on the tires.
  23. windguy

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    You make some interesting observations but I'm not really sure what your message is. BTW - all the Sears store in my area have been closed for a while. They are a done deal. What type of TC do you have - wagon, cargo, year?
  24. windguy

    Footwell Lighting?

    Has anyone added or considered adding lighting for the footwell area? My 2015 XLT Cargo doesn't have any lighting down there and it sure is dark. Would be nice to have sometimes. Just a thought.
  25. windguy

    OEM tires and wheelspin

    I followed in TCCONVERT's footsteps (tire tracks) and got a set of Pirelli Cinturato Strada AS's installed today. Stock size. I've been way overdue to replace the OEM Conti's and planned to do that at 20,000 miles. Just shy by 500 miles and picked up a leak in the left rear tire so pulled the trigger. 20,000 miles is about average for me and tires due to curvy canyon roads I mostly travel to and from the beach. I've used America's Tire (Discount Tire) for previous cars and I like their service and it's convenient so I wanted to stick with them for the van. I asked if they would prorate the OEM tires and they said they don't on OEM tires. Only if you buy them separately. New Pirelli's have that with a 70,000 warranty. Will be interesting to see how well they wear and if there is any reduced noise I can detect. Now I need to go get the alignment checked. The tire wear was pretty even on the OEM's but I'll error on the side of caution.
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