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If you load your van, the rear pads work harder than the fronts and are smaller , 110000 mi on the third set of rears , Second set of fronts due to Rust

The 1.6 Eco has 160 Hp and the new one has 120 Hp or minus 25-30 % The taller gears are to make it do the job. Nice looking house and nice looking van Welcome.

Cool

If you are going to do it right get one of these. It will make the job better.

If you have ramps that you can get up on or a Lift you can inspect the inside pad with out pulling the wheel. Turning the wheel you can see the calliper also, not as good a view.

This is the series engine in your Transit Connect. Jump to navigation Jump to search Mazda L engine Mazda MX-5 (NC) 2.0 MZR LF-VE engine Overview Manufacturer Mazda Also called MZR Duratec EcoBoost Production2001–present Layout ConfigurationInline 4 Displacement 1.8 L; 109.7 cu in (1,798 cc) 2.0 L; 122.0 cu in (1,999 cc) 2.3 L; 138.0 cu in (2,261 cc) 2.5 L; 151.8 cu in (2,488 cc) Cylinder bore 83 mm (3.27 in) 87.5 mm (3.44 in) 89 mm (3.50 in) Piston stroke 83.1 mm (3.27 in) 94 mm (3.70 in) 100 mm (3.94 in) Block materialAluminum Head materialAluminum ValvetrainDOHC 4 valves x cyl. with VVT (some versions) Compression ratio9.7:1, 10.0:1, 10.8:1, 12.1:1 Combustion TurbochargerOn some versions since 2010 Fuel system Sequential multi-port fuel injection Direct injection Fuel typeGasoline Oil systemWet sump Cooling systemWater-cooled Output Power output125–285 hp (93–213 kW; 127–289 PS) Torque output122–280 lb⋅ft (165–380 N⋅m) Chronology PredecessorMazda F engine SuccessorMazda SKYACTIV-G engine The Mazda L-series is a mid-sized inline 4-cylinder gasoline engine designed by Mazda as part of their MZR family, ranging in displacement from 1.8L to 2.5L. Introduced in 2001, it is the evolution of the cast-iron block F-engine. The L-series is used by Ford as their 1.8L to 2.5L Duratec world engine. The L-engine uses a chain-driven DOHC, 16-valve valvetrain with an all-aluminum block construction and cast-iron cylinder liners. Other features include fracture-split forged powder metal connecting rods and a one-piece cast crankshaft.

You could take the belts off and run the engine for 5 minutes and see if the vibration changes.

Good report . I have run these Sumitomo Tire HTR A/S P02 All- Season Radial Tire-215/60R16 99V for 80,000 + miles (2 sets) . Plenty of Dirt roads where I am. The Transmission shifts are unaffected and the Speedometer error is unimportant.

If you cannot find any one check the salvage yards there one there you could measure and you would only have to remove the seat.

You can still leave it in the Acc position. If you have to you can leave it in Neutral and turn the ignition off the column will not lock. Just make sure the wheel straps are tight.

I will keep looking, but not holding my breath.

Very cool, Unfortunately we won't see any of those here.

it could need to have the door adjustment checked , sounds like it is sensing one door not closed enough.

That could help, you can also lubricate the transmission end . You can also disconnect the cable at the Transmission end and see if the levers are stiff .

That is one reason I would wish for a 2015 that would be great!

If it is a Gen 2 use the steering wheel switch to go into the menu and shut it off , you will have to do this every time you start the car. I shut mine off all the time. It is not so easy on the Gen 1, I think you have to pull the ABS fuse.

This is what the shift cables look like. The lubricant that you spray on will only get to the ends, it may help

That is a cable shift transmission linkage and it uses 2 shift cables to move the gear selectors inside the gear box. One of the cables has lost its lubrication and needs to be replaced. We do not have Manual transmissions in TC's here. We have the Focus which is the same. It is enough of a job that if you do one you should do both.. Before you take it apart have your mechanic take the cable off the transmission and move the shifter to check the friction. If the shifter moves freely check the transmission shift levers to see if they are binding. If the levers move as they should the cables need to be replaced. Let us know what happens.

Thanks for the great up date!

If you use the lifting Jack as a Jack Stand then you get crushed no matter where the Jack is.

I think forscan will do it, I use scan tool.

If you want to really clean the Trans you need to exchange the fluid 3 times and that will get all the fluid. I have done lots of towing with mine and the cooler on the trans holds the fluid temp fine.

You need to start the engine with the hood open and just watch the motion as the engine warms up . See if the motion changes, if it does then turn on the lights and heater fan and see if the motion comes back. This would add to your information.

Where I live if the car does not break in half in 5 years because of rust you have a good car!!

Yes that should work. As I think about it the fact that the gauge is stuck on full could be an indicator that it is the gauge.