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i have replaced the suspension parts: tie rods, control arms and wheel bearings twice. ive done the brakes once, but ive had a problem with the rear driver side drum adjuster wheel 3 times. seems it dont adjust then falls down to rattle and wear. 1st time no lube, 2nd time antiseize, 3rd time moly on threads. it think this is the cure. ive done the coolants hoses {all} with genuine motorcraft. and changed spark plugs twice. valve cover gasket once. about 10k ago did the cv joints. oil every 10k w/penzoil ultra5w20. transmission with valvoline LV; fluid 25k & filter 50k. it has worked well for me as a delivery van. still have not found a location for my diesel heater that the vent wont be damaged by my doggie laying on it.

Hi All. Thanks for tips. Even using a pry bar I could not get my spare wheel to come down more than an inch. Its not rust just a failed and jammed mechanism. As all the lifting bits are above the actual spare wheel and can't be got at, major action was called for. I put the rear of the van on jacks enough to get under and give me a bit of head room. From underneath using a 4" angle grinder and steel chisel I carefully ground/chipped away the centre steel assembly that was holding the wheel up till it was smaller then the wheel centre hole. Be out of the way when the wheel and tyre are free as it will just drop to the floor. Once off I removed the jammed mechanism and replaced the whole assembly with a new one. Since the grinder was inches from my face spitting metal particles I wore a welding mask. Not the nicest job to do

Hey, thank you for posting an update on your van. I recall seeing your old posts and a video where you drove the van . Anyhow, I was planing on swapping mine as well and I wanted to try to keep the automatic pcm in place. After much research, it seems that it would require a simulation of the tcm to work properly. In theory, this is what has to be done 1. simulate the transmission codes on the canbus network 2. simulate the transmission switches output to the pcm (ground switches that indicate in what gear the trans is) 3. simulate sensors of the transmission Here is what I had done: - logged the communication of the canbus network - retrieved (not confirmed yet) the automatic transmission gear codes - basic research on usage of the pcm pins canbus analysis On the canbus network, the automatic transmission gear codes id is x230 and here is the data for each gear. When the van is off and the shifter goes through all gears, here is the data that I get: park : 00 64 D3 00 00 00 00 reverse : E1 08 D3 00 00 00 00 neutral : 00 64 D3 00 00 00 00 drive : 11 19 D3 00 00 00 00 first : 20 95 D3 00 00 00 00 second : 11 19 D3 00 00 00 00 (But I'd have to check again the park and neutral codes as they seem the same) pcm pins These transmission gear codes correspond to the 7 switch pins (pins 8,13,14,20,30,35 and 41) on the PCM. Aside from that, there are a couple of pins that would require simulation - 4 sensors (pins 10,19,29 and 37) - 6 solenoids (pins 23,33,43,44,45 and 50 but pin 11 and 15 could be deleted) - 2 other pins (could be ground or power control) (pins 43 and 50) So, simulating the transmission in order to fool the pcm would be a bit time consuming. The temperature sensors would not be all that bad, but simulating speed and matching gears could be a little bit tricky and would end up messing some PID's. At best, we might get final drive ratio error codes, but worst case PID's would be very off and throwing a bunch of codes (ABS, Transmission, Gear ratio...) Plus, using the manual tune with the proper wiring is a plus as the pcm uses the clutch switch to adjust fuel/air ratio depending of engine load. (Source for pcm pins and clutch switch : workshop manual) Anyhow, I hope the canbus codes could be hopeful for anyone that wants to keep the auto tune. Props to converting yours to manual! Note : that is all that I will to for the manual swap as I am getting rid of my van due to the engine going bad

When mine does that it is usually a result of a low voltage start. I disconnect the bat for 5 Min's and that usually triggers a correct reset soon. This has been happening to me for 10 years . Good luck and keep us posted.

This is exciting. Real progress!

Did the mechanical swap about two years ago . I used an SCT tuner and the Advantage racer software to get rid of all the auto related codes . It dives nicely for anywhere between 15-50 miles and then goes into limp mode . Tried to figure out what's not happy with Forscan , it really helped . Forscan let's you see codes that don't show up on other tuners / readers. There were many u-xxxx codes , lost contact with other modules . Then a few months ago I found a duratec manual trans focus zx3 . Now it's time to swap all the harnesses, modules ,cluster, cable driven throttle body etc. The real beauty is this will get rid of the Sync system. The speed sensor has to pass through APIM - accessory protocol interface module, on the transit it part of this Sync garbage. I plan to document it all on here so stay tuned .

Hey that was a massive wall of text with absolutely no formatting that I can't even begin to read. Can you try that again, using punctuation to split it up into sentences and breaking it up into paragraphs so I can actually read what you want to tell us?

Plenty of time in Maryland some time in Mid December would be good unless you have a trip to the Mtns. planed for a holiday or skiing! Here in Northern New England some time around Thanksgiving is the norm. The mud and snow and cold are similar to Estonia, but we can't get the cool headlights here!

i hit 560k this past week on my 2011. i bought it couple years ago with about 320k on it. the previous owner said the engine and transmission had been replaced about 3 years before i bought the van. He did not know how many miles on the rebuilds. He was a delivery guy that worked local. Im a delivery guy that runs long distance. I hit the 560k on a trip to Tuscon AZ; about a 2900 mile roundtrip from my home in Mississippi. i like to run non ethanol fuel. I got between 24.6 to 28.2 mpg depending on wind. i drove about 70 mph the whole way.

Exchange the transmission fluid.

Yup.

The first was acquired last year. Black Friday. I liked them enough that I bought a second pair in July. I now have 3 pairs. The leather is thick, heavy, and stiff. They take a lot of breaking in. Not for those with delicate feet. Not for the "woke" crowd. Especially if you care about things like race relations, politics, sustainability of shipping consumer goods across the globe, etc. Due to the exchange rate of the Rand versus the Dollar, the sale price is on the low end for the quality of the product. Comparable quality could cost twice as much from other shoe companies. The most interesting thing is that they have a custom boot builder on the website. You can pick your own last, leather, sole, color, etc. They will custom build your boots to order. https://jimgreenfootwear.co.za/ https://jimgreenfootwear.com.au/ https://jimgreenfootwear.com/ https://jimgreenfootwear.co.uk/

I have picked my configuration and will be ordering a fully equipped LWB Custom Sport soon. Not decided over the color yet.

Hey everyone, me again... Just wanted to say, I miss my Race Red Connect! I would order another one if available. I would really like a Transit Custom, sadly also not available in the U.S.

I report that I have successfully found the interface unit. It should arrive soon. All in all, I've spent around 60€ in total on all components so far. AP800's are not available anymore. The current model for this car would be the AP900Ci. Those go for around 350-400€ The effort and time I've put into this so far, is well worth it given how much money I'm saving. I really can't complain I might document the installation here, once I have time for it. Maybe. Of course, I first need to figure out the wiring 😄

Finally got all the parts from the focus I'll need and then some .

I was on here a while ago and got the mechanical swap completed . I tried everything available to keep the original pcm , but it's not going to happen. Too many obstacles as far as Sync , body modules and lack of similar pcm settings in other ford products with similar pcms. So I am swapping the entire harness , modules , pcm, cluster , throttle body , egr manifold-or modify stock on this transit connect to a 2005 pzev duratec manual zx3 Focus gear .

Sorry I don’t but I have made/modified many bushings over the years. I measure the ID requirement with a caliper, then the most important OD of the current one or from the holder, and the length. Then I decide what material might work like nylon or bronze and try for a near match at Tractor Supply or Granger. Get the correct OD then either drill or ream it, cut it to length and instal it. Not a simple solution but it has worked many times for me. You could try these guys: https://www.bushingfix.com/ford-transit-connect-shifter-linkage-cable-bushing-replacement-kit/ Or: https://www.ebay.com/itm/335365257942?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

my van has not had any water leaks up front. as for transmission maintenance. i bought the dorman pan for a mazda with drain plug. i use atf mercon LV. i drain every 25k miles and refill with 4 quarts. at 50k miles i drain and change filter. i use these cool 3rd hand gaskets and squirt a tube of shudderfix, . i bought this one used, it had about 300k on it and motor and transmission had been replaced about 3 years before i got it. that guy was a city delivery and im a long distance delivery. my heater is the smaller one with remote. i use the bigger ones in my promaster and after getting one with remote wont do it any other way. i travel with a dog so i can just turn on the heater if i go inside to do a delivery. that keeps van warm enough. i have a maxxair fan but really thinking i want an ac.

You can do it with FORScan.

Try parts.ford.com Enter your VIN for vehicle specific parts. My '07 F-150 doesn't have any kind of shield under the truck.

No, there's no shield further back under the engine bay. Maybe I'm more of a truck guy, but I think of full shields as being a relatively recent development to improve aero as manufacturers care more about MPG. In any event, IIRC what you're looking at, "Lower air deflector", should clip into the wheel-well liner "fender splash shields" via an intermediate triangle-shaped piece "front splash shield". As with most Ford parts 10+ years old, the easiest and cheapest way to sort it is to grab everything at once from a u-pull-it, if your area still has one.

Thank you for content I read before making the purchase last month, look forward to learning more. I picked up a 2020 with 30,000 miles. My use-case is a versatile daily driver, support outdoor recreation, with a lot of driver compartment room & comfort...check!

Got a little progress to report , everything removed from the focus . Been playing catch up with work since having both shoulders replaced tho , so it's been slower than I was hoping. I'll have some interesting pictures in a few weeks tho . Can't wait to let this thing rip on the freeway without the bill gates dashboard, yay ! Donor focus has no abs ! Makes the conversion a little easier, and I actually like non abs brakes better . See you guys in a few weeks with update and pics .

Sorry for your loss.

Yes, went on no issues and look fantastic 👍

I have a wagon. The headrests on the seats do a great job of obstructing the view. And with limo tint, I can't see much anyway. Which means that I've never intentionally turned on the rear wiper, or activated the washer spray.

Check engine light came on. Code reader said: P0453 High reading from EVAP. 2 months of research and here are the results! Turned out to be a severed wire harness on top of the fuel tank going to the FTP (fuel tank pressure) sensor. Have to drop the fuel tank to repair. First confirm the error by checking the 3 wires coming from the sensor at the connector (C211) in the right pillar at the passenger seat. Pins 18-19-20. Pin 18 is 5 volts reference using pin 20 as the signal return (ground). Pin 19 is the signal sent from the FTP. Should be around 2 to 3 volts. My problem was 5 volts on pin 19 caused by an open return (ground). When I tried to purchase a new FTP on both Ebay and Amazon, I noticed that only a wire connector was available. This was a big hint. Apparently only the wires are the problem! There is a 6 inch length of cable extending to the FTP that seems to vibrate over 10 years to the extent of separating! Now to drop the tank to solder the wires back together, you just need to lower the back of the tank 6 inches by removing the heat shields and disconnecting the filler hose. After lowering 3 inches, disconnect the cable to the canister and continue to 6 inches so you can reach the separated wires. I could not disconnect the FTP connector because the brilliant engineers placed the connector upside down making the lock on the connector inaccessible! Luckily, I could solder the wires on top without disconnecting. One more hint. Do not disconnect the muffler and tailpipe as directed by the field service manual! Just bend the interfering shield down.

Usually tapped into the reverse lamp signal wire.

Hello, Seems like I visited this site a few times a while back and it was down. Nice to have it up and running. Purchased a used 2014 with 45K miles here in California. It had been used lightly carrying "Rescue Anne's" for medical training. Shows it was well cared for, however needed tires, struts and shocks. Just added a Maxx Air Fan, Blue Sea Fuse Block, Solar panel, Receiver Hitch and some LED interior lights. This will be our 2nd van build and will be used for weekend camping and dirt biking in the desert.

The Gen 2 (2014+) TCs do not have a battery monitoring system unless you have the 1.6L ecoboost engine. BMS must be reset using a scan tool.

Doable but not as easy as you think. The loadfloor in the wagon and van versions are different. When you remove the 2nd row seats from the wagon version, you'll find that the carpet is not supported underneath where the seats were. If you don't realize that and step into that space, you'll crush everything below it. Yeah, found that out by doing it. I build a plywood box-ish thing to infill from where the loadfloor drops off (behind the 2nd row seats) to the back of the 1st row seats so I have a flat floor all the way from the rear doors to the back of the 1st row.

No pics for this one, just a PSA: if the cylinder head temp sensor fails, it also locks out the A/C, which was new for me as somebody who's only driven older vehicles. I'd been getting extended crank times for a couple weeks, and wasn't sure why. After a medium-sized road trip, got P1289 "Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range". Ordered the sensor since it was cheap, cleaned the plug, and reset the code. Next day, the code came back, temp gauge stopped working, and I noticed the A/C was also out. Thought I had two separate problems, but later that night I noticed the rad fans were screaming, locked at full speed even at normal engine temp. I guess when the computer can't tell engine temp, it takes really aggressive steps to prevent overheating, which also includes locking out the A/C. Replacing the sensor not only cleared the code, fixed the temp gauge, and let the fans spin at normal speed, but allowed the A/C to work again as well.

After getting code P0132 "O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage", not finding any vac leaks, and deciding it was due anyway as I approach 90k miles, I'm back to complain about the Duratec upstream O2 sensor. In summary: fuck this thing. You'd think it's super easy, right? It's right there sticking off the back of the motor, near the top: But when you put an O2 sensor socket on it, it hits those heater hoses behind it, and there's nowhere to swing a wrench. I found out later they make an O2 sensor crow's foot, but honestly the thing was welded in there so tight I can't imagine any split socket would do the job. I cut most of the sensor off with a hacksaw and used a normal socket on a 1/2" drive ratchet with a cheater bar, and it still took like an hour. It came out looking like this. New sensor wouldn't thread in, either, because clearly the old one obliterated the threads on the way out. So I go to Autozone and spend $10 on an O2 sensor tap, and it immediately eats itself as well: To the tap's credit, it did unfuck the situation enough to install the new O2 sensor and save me from having to pull the manifold, but holy shit. In summary: if your upstream O2 goes out on a 1st-gen, consider just selling the van and getting something else.

I’m selling this custom camper kit for my 2014 Ford Transit Connect wagon. It will fit any 2014 or later Ford Transit Connect wagon with a lift gate (optional) and a LWB (long wheel base). Most of the pieces I researched and purchased were specifically to fit this vehicle. Here are the pieces: • A solid wooden box that fits between the wheel wells and folds out into a bed platform, has two pull-out shelves, and has storage underneath. The outside of the box when closed is 45.5” W x 38” D x 19” H. The bed platform is 45.5” W x 76” D when folded out. When closed, the inside storage area of each half of the box is 21” W x 15” H x 37” D. • A high density tri-fold foam mattress that is 78” L x 38” W x 4” D when unfolded (It’s been slept on maybe a dozen nights) • A protective case for storing the mattress • A fitted and a flat sheet for the mattress • Custom sun shades for every window in the vehicle that suction on from the inside • Custom insect screens for the front row windows • A tent that fits over the lift gate to extend the living area • A rain fly for the tent • A rug for underneath the tent and one for the inside • A welcome mat • A beautiful table cloth for your camp picnic table (and clamps to keep it on the table) • A very cool setup to hold a light strand over the picnic table There are photos attached. Not everything in the photos is included. If it is not in the above list, it is not included. The reason I’m selling is because I’d like to use my vehicle in a different way now. I don’t have a place to store the box when not using it, so it has to stay in there all the time. All you have to do to use this is to remove the third row seats from your vehicle. It’s very easy. Just a couple bolts. When not camping, you have full use of the second row of seats in your vehicle.

Sick; I have to do this soon. Don't suppose you took any pictures of prying the slider lockbox open?

Attached is what I came up with.

back to the back up camera idea. I set mine up to be on all the time. it has 2 video feeds. with a quick switch i can see the passenger side blind spot also. cost less than the 150 budget.

So it's been awhile. Has anyone else put the KO2's (or other burly tires) on their 2010-2013 series vans? How have they been running with this tire combo and any feedback in general?

I thought the fact that the rear two dome lights do not have switches on them was a silly engineering oversite, so..... I installed micro push button switches and LED bulbs in them.

Were you in the car? How long did it run? The remote start run the engine for a warm up period and turns off. How long did it run?

Alright! Unistrut Frame is bolted in and tight,,,FYI,,,Its a LOT easier fitting a 17mm wrench and socket through the Unistrut and onto M10x1.5 hardware then it is to fit a 3/4" wrench over 1/2" Hardware....so stock up on M10x1.50 hardware,,,I weighed each post at about 2lbs each and the long top bar is 3lbs. All together the frame and hardware weighs approximately 12-15lbs. Taking a break and then ripping some wood tomorrow before the rest of my dynamat comes in. The plywood will bolt into the unistrut using tapered head 1/2" bolts, will run the width of the van and will rest on the small ledge (slightly above it)

Dandytc New Transit Connect Member T.C. Member 1 9 posts Region:Canada British Columbia Location:Metro Vancouver Current Vehicle:2015 TC XLT wagon hatchback Posted December 14 · Report post When I first got my TC, I couldn't find a cord for the block heater, and ended up thinking that there was none. After reading recent posts, I checked my owner's manual, and it doesn't say "If equipped" under the "Engine block heater" title page 117, so I took another look, and sure enough, there it was. The reason I didn't find it previously, is because I was looking for a cord that looked like the one in my previous vehicle (Ford Focus wagon), which was a flat 3 conductor cord with a plug at the end, much like a regular household HD cord. The cord on the TC is wrapped with corrugated loom, and the plug is round. The whole thing was hiding under another loom to the right of the air filter. I would think that a block heater might be standard in colder regions in the US as well. I hope the pics will help some of you find theirs.

So which bulbs did you use for the high beam? Looking at the Street Cat bulbs. the 4000 lumen bulbs say H11 (H8 / H9), and the 4800 lumen bulbs just say H11. I'm liking the LED idea, and would probably go with the 4800 lumen bulbs. I also need to decide about the fog lamps, if I should go with something traditional like yellow fogs or go with the H11 LEDS. Fog where I'm at is relatively rare, and might decide to use the white LEDs to get more light out front. Pretty cool ideas, though, thanks for sharing.

I went with the Auxbeam F-16 Series off of Amazon. SO far I love them. As far as the rest of the lights go, I have changed all of them to LED's except the two map lights, the side turn signals, and the rear turn signals. All others have been swapped out. I have also swapped out all of the bulbs in my house and new workshop for LED's. I also have a original Streamlight Stinger converted over to LED via the terralux conversion kit, and a Streamlight Stinger DS HP LED. Fell in love with the Streamlight name brand during my time in the Fire Dept. and it just carried over to my time as a Correctional Officer for the State. I am obsessed with LED's. I love anything that runs cooler, uses less power, and last way longer.

Trying to figure out how to post a video on here. Might have to go through youtube and just post the link. But I will get a video posted from my dash cam driving at night. I started out by running HID's for a year and a half. These things were great as long as you leave them in either low or high beam. When you start switching between the two for cars on the road, one or both will get stuck. By stuck I mean if you are in high beam and switch to low beam one light will go to low and the other will get stuck in high. Or this could be both stuck in high. Also with the HID's you have the warm up period when you turn them on. The warm up is only 20-60 seconds long and was not to much of a problem for me but could be for some. Switched over to LED's a few months ago and love them. They are instant on, do not get stuck when switching from low to high, and are just as bright as the HID's were. Also the LED's are a lot easier to install over the HID's.

I've installed a few of these in the past and its pretty easy if your fast enough with the key and know the sequence. So I bought one for my new TC and started looking for the programming sequence.Looked on the owners manual which turned out to be for a full size Transit. Back to the dealer to switch out the manual. Nothing in the manual. Go to the service department and ask. "We don't install them here we have a company come in and do them. Sales guy gives me the number for the company. Call and talk with the accessory sales guy who tells me that you need a special programmer since they are now bidirectional devices. Came here read this thread and did it in two minutes. Thank you

Ok, first item is to check the fuse, which you have done. Just to make sure, it is in position 180, bottom row, third from the left, a 20 amp fuse. After checking the fuse, there is not to much else that can be done. The service manual has the normal items of checking the wiring from the wiper/washer switch to the washer pump. The washer pump is attached to the bottom of the fluid reservoir under the left (drivers side)front fender. You have to remove the fender splash shield to get access. Just out of curiosity, does the washer pump work for the rear windows? The same pump works for both front and back, it just reverses direction when pumping to the rear windows. One last item, do you have any fault codes DTC's? Front washer fault code for wiring is B2114 and for rear wring is B2115. You can check for codes by using the self test read out on the dash. Press and hold the trip odometer reset button (the one on the left of the LCD readout) and turn the ignition switch to the start position. Release the reset button when the LCD readout says tESt (takes about 5 seconds). The first display is gAgE (it tests all the gauges). Then press the reset button 8 more times to see if there are any DTC's. If there are none, it will read NONE. Turn the ignition key off to end the test. Good Luck.