Don Ridley

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Nice. Keep us posted.

The configuration of the body control module needs to be changed. Go to a dealer or use Forscan.

This discussion shows a firewall grommet on the driver's side.

Nobody every regrets getting exactly what they want.

I agree, the 2.5 is marginal especially in a LWB Titanium with all the extra weight. But Ford apparently has decided to let Honda, Toyota and Chrysler have the mini van market. The 2.0L ecoboost would have been a nice option for the LWB wagons. But the 2.5 is simple and easy to maintain. Modern vehicles typically run and drive without any problems. Most consumers seem to be more disappointed with the electronics and programming than the actual mechanical hardware. I think the next generation of car buyers will expect and demand access to the vehicle's configuration. Here is a discussion on changing the configuration of the Sync3 module in a 2017+ Focus. It may work for the TC since they are built on the same platform. See item 17 and 18. Navigation while in motion has successfully be turned on in F150s, Fusions and now Focus. I don't have Sync 3. http://www.focusrs.org/forum/30-focus-rs-electronics/103801-forscan-mods-changes-info.html

I think this is the adhesive tape/caulk https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PEZ1L4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526660277&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3m+strip+caulk&dpPl=1&dpID=41Q%2BZ6kHPjL&ref=plSrch

Check out the Focus ST or Focus RS forums. Those guys have a lot of experience with catch cans for the small Ecoboost engines.

The black adhesive on the vapor barrier is a butyl rubber tape. Do not remove it. Slowly pull the barrier away from the door and the adhesive will stretch into a thin film. Cut the adhesive down the middle if the film with a razor as you slowly pull off the vapor barrier. You will be left with adhesive on both surfaces. Reinstall by sticking the adhesives back together. It will re-bond and be good as new. There is no good substitute for this stuff. Rubber adhesives fail eventually due to the harsh conditions and materials being bonded. Look for 3M PF5432 or equivalent if you want some for the back doors. It is hard to find. Some Auto Stereo sound deadening sites carry similar products.

Here are the backup camera options in Forscan for my 2016 TC. I have a factory camera.

Cameras seem to be problematic: http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=4408

This tutorial was written by an Escape forum member. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OHaBAxllW1yYgEAEKmGTh28Z6iro6BU0/view?usp=drivesdk You should read read their discussion about making changes using Forscan.

I don't know... But definitely "maybe". Forscan will show your existing configuration for 50+ parameters. Many parameters have a menu of items to choose possible changes. Sometimes they work, other times they don't and/or cause strange behaviors. So you have to be careful. This scares a lot of potential users away. The possibility of failure is increased because Forscan spends little or no time programming features specifically for our unusual vehicle. But some of us can't turn down the challenge...even if it means bricking your ecu and going to the Ford dealer for help.

You need a Windows PC and an adapter. Here are excellent instructions from the Ford Fusion forum http://www.2gfusions.net/showthread.php?tid=4573 The TC is built on the Focus platform. Module changes must be made using pre-programmed functions in Forscan. You can't change individual bits like you can on Fusion and F150s. There is a learning curve but Forscan gives you a free, powerful tool to read and change the ECU settings in your vehicle. You may be able to add options like DRL, alarm etc. Dark mode was added to the BCM programming in late 2016. You may be able to activate it with Forscan. But if your build was earlier, the dealer would have to update the programming first. I have an earlier build so I don't know if the Forscan setting for Dark Mode (I think it is called approach light) works.

This feature and many others can be configured using Forscan. Once you take the plunge and learn how to use it, you can be free from others deciding what is best for you ? But, seriously Forscan allows you to change things " just because "....and that makes me happy.

Here is the taxi wiring from a 2016

The basic sync on my 2016 was recently updated. Check yours here: https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/keep-your-sync-up-to-date.html The update is loaded using a USB flash drive. There was a lot of dead time during the upload and I was sure it was working. But per the instructions, it took 20 minutes.

Forscan may be able to reset or recalibrate the proper module(s). Probably the PCM module. Do some research on the Forscan.org website. The software is free but you will need a bluetooth ELM327 adapter (plugs into the OBDII port). This will get you started: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8dKaS_Spu4Zw4hV_CrKC4tLoP9G8yejqegF1wxIqxY/edit Otherwise, you may be visiting your local Ford dealer.

....or how about returning the black plastic covers? That should qualify as a core ?

Has anyone contacted the dealer to confirm the core charge? If it is real, this seems like a purposeful move to prevent upgrading the vehicle.

I don't have the skills or budget to install a system comparable to the Captain. I chose to keep the audio system simple and looking like stock. I used the factory head unit (mfg by Sony) and a DSP/amp by Audio Control: https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/power-amplifiers/d-4800/ The amp has a great PC based app that that allows adjustment of every audio parameter for precise tuning and seems to handle speaker level inputs very well. I powered the amp using the Battery Junction Box attached to the battery. It was very clean. I put the amp under the driver's seat since I don't have the aux blower for the rear passengers. I installed Morel Hybrids in the front doors and some basic 2-way speakers in the rear sliding doors. https://www.morelhifi.com/product/hybrid-2-way/ The sub is a 10" self powered tube-type that I can move around as needed. I added sound deadening in the doors and insulation on the door panels. Overall I am very happy with the sound quality, but I am not an audiophile. I really like the convenience and simplicity of using the stock head unit. I listen mostly to music via USB or smartphone app and the sound quality is very good. I have the basic Sync system (small screen). The Sync 3 unit appears to have some audio settings you may be able to configure using Forscan e.g. set pre-amp outputs, sub outputs and speaker number and type. If you want to do this there is a lot of info on the F-150 forums. Congratulations on your new TC!

Tow hook access is the reason why most cars have a small cutout in the front and rear bumpers. Look for one next time you drive ?

I don't see an easy workaround in the wiring diagrams for the door lock circuits. It may be worth the trouble to download Forscan (and buy an ELM327 Bluetooth device) and read the DTCs. Maybe there is something else going on that is not obvious that will show up in the DTCs. The PC version of Forscan is free and the phone apps are about $10.

The wiring diagram shows the lift gate latch switch sends a signal to the BCM when pressed. The BCM then sends 12v power to the latch motor to open the lift gate. If the BCM is faulty it is either responding to a phantom switch input or the non-serviceable relay in the BCM is faulty. Besides the lift gate switch, the only other mechanical failure could be the wire between the switch and BCM. If this wire is shorting to the vehicle chassis, the BCM will read this as a request to open the lift gate. BUT...if the lift gate is opening WHEN THE DOORS ARE LOCKED, the BCM is surely the problem. Due to the cost, I would check the wire between the two components. A tech with the schematic can do this in 15 minutes. A new BCM can only be programmed by a dealer.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-repeater-lamp-9t1z13k376a/?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9c2lkZS1yZXBlYXRlci1sYW1wcyZpPU1CMTQwMjU1JnI9bGF5ZXJfMSZhPWZvcmQmbz10cmFuc2l0LWNvbm5lY3QmeT0yMDE0JnQ9eGx0JmU9Mi01bC1sNC1nYXM%3D