Fifty150

Of you are ready to remove the center console, you can make it fit. Still new holes for bolting it in. Weld it if you have to. I have thought about removing the console and installing jump seats from an old Jeep. Wildly impractical, uncomfortable, and illegal.

That was an awesome tutorial.

Factory HID are great! Drop in HID kits, not so great. Same with LED. Some cars now have factory LED, which are awesome. Drop in LED kits, not so awesome.

Any chick who rode in a Subaru Brat, will also respond to, "I've got a bottle Quaaludes in the pocket of my Members Only jacket."

When I used halogen headlights, I tended to favor the Hella brand. Just a little more wattage. Just a little brighter.

I've always thought that the Mustang was the perfect platform for building an electric Tesla Fighter.

Good idea. Don't wait on it. Especially the transmission. Although you never really hear of it, the coolant is important. You don't want electrolysis in the cooling system.

Try jumping pin 7 to 2, first. With any luck, that should release your door. If that works, you will know that everything from there, to the door, is good. Take a good look at the below diagrams, and make sure that what you are looking at on your car matches what you are seeing on the diagrams.

You shouldn't cut the entire door off. That's a waste of a perfectly good door. ?

Check everything electronic, check

That is suppose to be a safety feature.

You're probably right. I don't own one. I just recall seeing those in truck stops as I traveled. But there are probably similar devices. I also recall that some of those lithium battery jump start packs have attachments which are suppose to feed power into the car via the cigarette lighter port. I wonder how well those work.

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The 12 volt cigarette lighter style power outlet between the front seats is always hot on my Gen2. Over the years, I've seen a lot of odd things in truck stops. Not just Lot Lizards, but things you might actually want to buy. I recall seeing devices which allowed you to plug into a cigarette lighter, which allowed for boosting the battery and/or jump starting the car. I also recall seeing car-to-car cigarette lighter booster cables.

In The USA, there is a roadside assistance program which is a part of your warranty. In most cars, the only thing connecting the pull handle and the underhood latch, is a cable. Usually, the break is on the attachment at one end or the other. Almost impossible to sever the cable somewhere in the middle. If the cable broke loose from the handle, that's pretty easy. Just pull it with a pair of pliers. If the cable broke off the connection point at the latch, that creates quite the problem. You may be able to pop off enough of the plastic retainers to pull away parts of the wheel well, or grille & front fascia, to get to the hood latch to manually release it. There must be a better solution than just breaking pieces off. Otherwise, you end up forcing it with a pry bar until it breaks, then you' won't be able to close it after you get the car started.

Lifetime Fluid means that fluid will be good for the life of the transmission. 100% true, every time, in every transmission. When the transmission fails, that will be the end of it's lifespan. You will never have to change the transmission fluid, unless you get 150,000 miles. The fluid can stay in your transmission for 150,000 miles, or until the transmission breaks. No transmission will last forever. But the reason I posted the maintenance schedule from 10 years ago, and the current maintenance schedule, is to show that not much has changed. The severe duty maintenance schedule is exactly the same for transmission fluid & spark plugs. Something to think about with some of these Transit Connects which have been on the road for awhile. Spark plugs need attention too. Don't wait until you have misfires. And in case anyone cares, even back a dozen years ago, Ford claimed that the transmission fluid was a lifetime fluid. Right where it says, "features", it also says, "filled for life". So that's not new either. I doubt if any of those 4 speed transmissions survived without a transmission fluid exchange.

I do have a 2nd Generation. Same issue with LED headlights. Brighter, but you don't see as far. On well lit streets and highways, your OEM lights should be fine. It's just that a lot of people like brighter lights. Then you start with the headlights, and next thing you know, you're adding light bars.

Transit Connect headlamp housings are engineered for halogen lamps. Halogen lamps, although more yellow and less bright, will throw a beam farther. LED will be whiter, brighter, and allow you to see more. However, the beam will not cover the same distance, since LED wavelength in a headlamp housing designed to reflect halogen lighting will not throw as far. Your real problem with LED, is that there are tons of them on the open market, and a lot of them do not work very well. Flickering. Overheating. Failing. Improper fitment. Stated lumen output which is nowhere near realistic. Then you have sellers offering a warranty, which they will not honor, nor be able to honor if their "company" disappears. But there are good LED sellers. Some have been in business for a decade now. They do have quality control, research & development, offer product support, and will be around in case you need warranty service. My personal experience was buying different sets of LED lights on Amazon.com. Some of the sellers responded, and offered refunds or exchanges. Some of the sellers did not respond, and I was able to obtain a refund from Amazon.com since they offer an A-To-Z Guarantee on everything sold on Amazon. The lights I am currently using, which are working well, are from sellers who no longer exist. So that should warn you. Even if you get a good set, by taking chances, those fly-by-night sellers won't be around later if something goes wrong.

For my pickup from last decade, the maintenance schedule looked something like this: For my 2nd Generation Transit Connect, an online maintenance schedule looks something like this: Air filter can get dirty within 1 oil change cycle, depending upon driving conditions. Most of us will change the transmission fluid before 150,000 miles. Most of us will change the spark plugs before 100,000 miles.

Brakes can be bled when you change the pads & rotors. You can also use a turkey baster to suck out all the brake fluid on top, then add new fluid. Radiator fluid does last a long time, but I doubt if any fluid can be a "lifetime fluid". While today's color coded, vehicle specific coolant is suppose to be an advanced formula; don't forget how the old coolant caused all sorts of gremlins that people didn't even know was caused by coolant. Remember cooling system electrolysis? A live current was flowing through the cooling system, in & out of the engine, and people never knew that was why they were blowing up radiators, gaskets, et cetera. On my car, I will change the coolant. Most dealerships, will want to sell you a coolant exchange. Everybody else could trust the fluid to be a lifetime fluid. I think that a lot of brands will be building "free" maintenance, or at least "free" oil changes, into the cost of the out the door price of the car. It makes sense. The consumer perceives a value. Typically, those programs are for the duration of the warranty. And when the car is traded back in for resale, they have all maintenance records. And since they are only performing "maintenance" during the duration of warranty, they're not giving you free transmission flush, coolant exchange, brakes (wear item), tires (wear item with separate tire warranty), spark plugs, wipers (wear item), or battery (wear item with separate warranty). Your powertrain warranty is for 60,000 miles or 5 years. The only real maintenance covered would be your oil change. Just think of the oil changes. A local dealer offered $5 oil changes for years.....until $5 could no longer pay for the cost of the oil & filter. Every time the car came in for an oil change, they got to inspect it and find other items to sell you on, or found something that they could do under warranty to charge back to the manufacturer. And they got to do all of the recall work, paid by the manufacturer. Look at what you can now get when you let the dealer perform your service. Lifetime brake pads. Pay once, get free brakes forever. 2 year warranty on parts. Parts, which unless they are defective and fail immediately, will last well beyond 2 years......water pumps, thermostats, alternators, starters......you're already paying more anyway since dealership labor is higher and parts are marked up more. But you think it's a good deal; perceived value. In reality, within 60,000 miles, they will probably only give you 6 or 8 "free" oil changes. Maybe $100 value in parts. LIFETIME BRAKE PAD GUARANTEE* *Available for Motorcraft® brake pads purchased after 7/1/14 and Omnicraft™ brake pads purchased after 7/1/17. Nontransferable. Replacement requires copy of original repair order and completion of any other necessary brake service, such as brake rotor service. Motorcraft or Omnicraft brake pads must be installed by U.S. Ford or Lincoln Dealership or Quick Lane® technician to be covered. Pads only; labor costs not included. Restrictions and exclusions apply. Offer valid with coupon. See Service Advisor for details. Expires 12/31/19. Expires: 12/31/19 MOTORCRAFT® WARRANTY: TWO YEARS. UNLIMITED MILEAGE. INCLUDES LABOR.* Motorcraft parts are covered for a full two years with unlimited mileage. Even limited labor costs are included.* *Motorcraft® is a registered trademark of Ford Motor Company. See your Service Advisor for a copy of the limited warranty. Expires 12/31/19. Expires: 12/31/19 FORD PARTS WARRANTY: TWO YEARS. UNLIMITED MILEAGE. INCLUDES LABOR.* Ford parts are covered for a full two years with unlimited mileage. Even limited labor costs are included.* *See your Service Advisor for a copy of the limited warranty. Expires 12/31/19. Expires: 12/31/19

An easier to tackle build would be to use an All Wheel Drive Escape/Kuga platform, and trying to adapt the Transit Connect van body.

You could think about when you want to change your spark plugs and coil over plug ignition. Conventional thinking was that plugs should be replaced at your 60,000 mile tune-up. They tell you that the modern MotorCraft spark plugs are good for 100,000 miles. But from cars sold a decade earlier, that has proven not to be the case. With the COP ignition, they are suppose to be fine, and only need replacement if the boots are dried and cracked, and causing arc faults & misfires. Some people will tell you that you only have to replace the boots as needed, when they go out. Some people, like me, will replace the entire COP unit with the spark plugs. Some people may tell you to check them at 50,000 miles. Some people, like me, will say that if you go through the trouble of taking off the COP, and pulling the plug to check it; you might as well install new parts, since it's just as much effort to put the old parts back in. Perhaps change the coolant at 50,000 miles instead of waiting for 100,000 miles. There are little devices you can buy at an auto parts store which checks the coolant. I've never used one. You can see the color of the coolant, and you know how old it is. Just drain it and add new coolant. It cost just as much to buy a tool to check the coolant, as it does to buy coolant. My Gen 2 does not have a fuel filter. I'm not sure if the 1st Generation Transit Connect has a fuel filter. Brakes are an as needed wear item. Gen 1 Transit Connects had a problem with front wheel bearings. You could always use a turkey baster to suck out old power steering fluid, and add new fluid. Your drive belt & hoses are wear items. You should check the paper air filter with each oil change. Keep a new one on hand, and change as needed. Depending on your driving conditions, air filters could last anywhere from 1 oil change, to 20,000 miles. Or switch to a reusable oil filter if you prefer. Look for exhaust leaks and correct as needed. If you are in a snow environment, with road salt & corrosion, your exhaust system will be worse off than someone in a dry, desert, with no humidity.

We can either trust the engineering behind the car, with the car's computer using the "sophisticated" algorithm developed by the car's engineers.......or do whatever we feel is best. Some people develop their own theory as to when to change oil. Some people develop their own theory as to what type of oil to use; conventional, synthetic blend, or full synthetic. Some people develop their own theory as to what weight is appropriate. All based on their own decades of knowledge, albeit antiquated knowledge, which has not advanced into acceptance of modern engineering. Whatever they have learned from XXX years of driving and working on cars is that you have to change the oil every XXXX miles, only use a certain type or blend of oil, and XXwXX weight is best, no matter what they try to tell you. Almost like me telling you that "QuickBooks" won't work, because my people have used an abacus for over 10,000 years. Guess what? People ate raw fish 10,000 years ago, but now we have fire, and we cook the fish. What most of us accept as fact about motor oil is that the oil itself is not what wears and breaks down. It's the additive pack in the oil, which actually does the work, which wears and breaks down. With that theory in mind, the algorithm is based upon Ford's MotorCraft synthetic blend oil recommended in the owner's manual. While nothing is precise, the engineers have probably safely factored in that some people see the oil change indicator on their dash, and ignore it until they can get around to changing the oil. The factory recommended oil is most likely sturdy enough that you don't have to panic every time the light comes on. Most of us being of a certain age, remember when vehicles required oil changes every 3,000 miles, or 3 months. Those recommendations were based upon the engine technology of that space in time. Engines, and even oil, are built different in today's world. I understand cringing and not believing that engines and oil can last longer in today's world. Every reasonable technician will still tell you to follow the OEM specified maintenance schedule for your car. If you have a car which is older, and the schedule calls for 3,000 or 5,000 miles, then stay with that interval for that vehicle. A lot of people have turned to used oil analysis, and dialed in a comfortable extended oil change interval for their car. A lot of older cars are now going 10,000 miles +, using synthetic oil. At the end of the day, you are not damaging your car by "over-changing" the oil. If you feel better with changing your oil every 3,000 or 5,000 miles, or every 3 months......it won't hurt the car. Most of us could probably afford it, so it's not really hurting your wallet. Most of us are also comfortable with accepting that oil is not wearing out based on calendar days sitting in the engine. So the real factor is actual miles driven, not how many months in use. Most of us could probably leave the oil in the car for a year, if the car was driven less than the OEM spec of 7,500 - 10,000 miles. After several years of ownership, I believe that the vehicle's algorithm also uses calendar days, as my oil change indicator illuminated at or about 10 months. Where you can go wrong, is "re-engineering" the OEM specs yourself, by figuring that if you used a better oil & filter, you could probably drive a lot longer than when the oil change indicator says you should change your oil. Most of us on this forum are not trying to get 15,000 or 20,000 miles out of an oil change. But you would be surprised at how many people in the real world would spend $$$XXX on very expensive synthetic oils & filters, then spend more on a used oil analysis, to prove that they are doing the right thing by not changing their oil. They are out there. $15 a quart for 6 quarts. $20 for an oil filter. $30 for used oil analysis. 24,000 freeway commute miles annually. Annual oil change interval. $140 vs. whatever you would have spent to change your oil 3 - 5 times in that same period. And they have a used oil analysis report to prove that the oil in the engine was just fine after that amount of time & miles.

If you really have a big budget, you would not waste your time with a wrecked car's used drivetrain, with who know how many hard driven miles. If you have a big budget, you could simply order all new parts. Crate motor, transmission, et cetera. The 2020 Transit with All Wheel Drive would be an ideal build platform. I believe that winmag4582001 wants to build a Transit Connect. Or at least, he is challenged by the thought of building a Transit Connect.