Fifty150

It was claimed that MotorCraft spark plugs are good for 100,000 mile. Now a lot of people are changing at 50,000, 60,000, or 75,000. Some people say that plugs are fine, unless they misfire. Others say change them at certain mileage, so that they don't misfire. In your case, change them now. You already have misfire. Some people say to reuse the Coil On Plug. Other people install new units, since it's just as much effort. Some people change the rubber spark plug boot only. Cost is the factor. Coil Over Plug units are about $50+. Misfire can result from bad spark plug, bad COP, or deteriorated rubber boot on the COP. COP are sold with boot attached. Boot can be purchased separately. You could replace just the plugs, and be fine. If there's still misfire, pull the COP, and change the boots. If there's still misfire, change the COP. Or change the COP when changing plugs, and you will be fine. A lot of people believe that you should only use MotorCraft ignition parts. I have used other brands without issue. Stay away from low cost spark plugs. Aftermarket iridium plugs should be fine. I have used E3 plugs in Ford engines without issue.

Your findings have merit. Now we know that Valvoline MaxLife works. We will also know about Triax, after your cycle.

Just did an oil change. I used this stuff, since it was cheap & I am cheap: Found this funnel in my garage. Perfect fit for Transit Connect. Tucked right in under the cowling.

Why wait? Just do it at 25,000 miles. That's my strategy. I'll just do it every 25,000 miles. With Transit Connect's Oil Life Monitor, that could be 3 oil changes. I did mine yesterday. Since I already had the fluid, and I wanted to change the oil on all the cars before summer. Car was already jacked up. Tools were out. Buckets & funnels were out. Should I wait for 50,000 miles before I do it all over again? Or should I just drain & fill with every oil change?

I do something similar, when possible. I like to use the return line (between the cooling system and transmission). My strategy is to allow the pump to push the fluid all the way through the cooling system. This allows me to see that the transmission pump is actually working, able to push fluid all the way through, and I can see that the transmission cooler is not clogged with contaminant. In theory, it's also "flushing" out the cooler. Otherwise, whatever contaminants may be in the cooler, will get pushed back into the transmission when you reconnect the cooling line. The Transit Connect transmission line connections are on top of the transmission. That is where the flush machine would connect. The van would be on a lift, the machine under it, and the tech would simply reach up in there to disconnect the cooling system and plug in the machine. If you unplug the line from there, you would need to connect your own hose, and it needs to have a compatible fitting. Not as easy to do with jack stands, laying on your back, limited lighting...... The other option is to disconnect the return line from the radiator. You will need a factory service manual to figure out which line to disconnect. Then you will need transmission hose with the correct fitting to connect to the radiator. Disconnect the return line, connect your own line, and fluid can be pumped into a bucket. I don't have a service manual. I have no idea which lines going in & out of the radiator serve which purpose. Not so sure of what kind of fitting attaches to the radiator. I don't even know how the cooling system is routed on the Transit Connect. I am fairly certain that the lines under the radiator hose, next to the transmission vent cap and running along the top of the transmission, are cooling and return lines. On other car forums, there's usually a guy who works at the dealership as a tech. That guy would simply post pics of the best place to disconnect, what special tools you will need, and the best way to tap into it. I suppose nobody on this forum is a dealership tech. Luckily, the drain plug is available, and the vent cap fill is easy. Maybe it's not 100% fresh fluid. But a triple drain & fill does a pretty good job. The math is easy. 4 liters is US 135 1/4 ounces 4 quarts = 1 gallon = 128 ounces. So if you have 4 quarts, or a 1 gallon bottle, you will still need a little more than 7 ounces. You could simply buy an extra quart. If you buy a case of 12 quarts, set 4 quarts aside, then steal a little bit from each of the other 8 quarts. Doesn't matter, since those are the quarts you will drain out. If you're really unsure of pouring out a little bit, and not trusting the marks on the side of your quart bottle..........get one of those little cups that you pee into. A lab specimen cup is marked with measurement lines, and free if you steal it from your doctor's office.

I still don't get it. I read, and reread your post. Why 3 quarts? Why would you pour the old fluid back in with 3 new quarts? Why not just refill with the same amount of old fluid that came out? Since you've already got the measuring cups out, you could just measure what came out, and refill with that same amount. No dipstick needed.

The fill is 4 liters. No guesswork. Just drain, and add 4 liters. That's easier than the 3 quart strategy you are describing. What's the 3 quart strategy about? Why 3 quarts? You could also use the fill plug to check for perfect fill level. I am lazy. 4 liters is in the owners manual. I am adding 4 liters.

It's PhotoShop

Has anyone else considered a drain & fill with every oil change, or every other oil change? I don't like the idea of only 4 liter of fresh fluid, then contaminating it. With a drain plug, it's just as much effort to perform the 3X drain & fill, and get more fresh fluid in there. But it's cheap, easy, and better than doing nothing. In the old days, people only dropped the pan, and considered it good enough.

With Fiberine, the problem is not the roof, it's the installation. Roof will be great. You can imagine all the things that could go wrong with a bad roof mod.

Ford transmissions use a transmission cooler bypass valve to "regulate" the low end of the temperature range. Until the transmission fluid reaches a preset temperature, the fluid bypasses the cooling system. But I don't think are is anything on the high end of the temperature range, except for the wrench light on your dash and the car going into "limp mode". So once the transmission fluid reaches the right temperature to enter the cooling system, the temperatures will continue to climb. Theory is that your cooling system works. If your transmission is heating beyond what the cooling system is capable of maintaining, you get the wrench light & go into limp mode. At that point, the transmission needs to be looked at. There's obviously something wrong, with either the transmission, or the cooling system. I have a ScanGauge II in the pickup. I can see transmission temps from 180 - 225. Sometimes the only variable is speed. Sometimes it's ambient temperature. Sometimes it's drive time. Sometimes it's driving up steep grades. Truck runs exactly the same. I haven't had any transmission problems like torque convertor shudder, slipping, not engaging, rough shift.....if I didn't have the gauge at all, I wouldn't know what the temperature readings are, and I would just drive it and think it's fine as long as smoke isn't coming out - like 9 out of 10 people who just drive their cars in ignorant bliss. Honestly, I don't think that you can find a published chart, anywhere, which will specifically detail that the 6F35 should operate between X temperature to Y temperature, and not exceed Z temperature. I've looked for similar information myself, with different cars, and it has been unsatisfying. Trying to find an answer which should exist, but does not. What you will find online, are generic charts which are antiquated and no longer relevant. They will show you that transmission fluid begins breaking down @ 200 - 225 - then show you how much damage happens as the temps rise. But these are old charts, generic and have nothing to do with low viscosity fluid in your 6F35. I did the 3X drain & fill today. The vent cap pops right out. Just lift it out of there with your fingers, no special tool needed. Drain plug came off with ease. I was worried that it was torqued down real tight at the factory, like the oil drain plugs. Not the case with the transmission drain plug. Filling was really easy using a plastic transmission funnel. I just happen to have a few left over from beer drinking parties. Just like this one: I got the van off the ground using UniJacks. Gave me a lot of room to crawl under and do whatever I wanted. I was completely safe. Van could have been lifted even higher if I needed to. I recommend these. Yes, that's right. Service work being done on a public street. You guys with your own lifts are so lucky!

There is no "normal". Every car is a little different. Every person has a different drive style. We all experience different road conditions. The real concern is overheating. Modern fluid with modern technology supposedly has much more heat tolerance, and is capable of operating at higher temperatures

If your cooling system is working, there's probably a certain temperature that the fluid does not rise beyond. Theory would be that system is engineered to operate at certain temperature range; never below x temp when warm, or above x temp.

Pens Pencils Birth Control Chewing Gum .......things you put in your mouth

Here you go. Dog catchers with automatic weapons.

I'm lazy. For me, the simplest solution is not to do all that work. I just want something to sleep on.

The prepaid cell phone, that you use to communicate with your girlfriends, so that your wife doesn't find out.

Walk us through, step by step. What to remove 1st. Any tips and tricks? Special tools? Anything hidden or tricky to watch for?

Just realized, as I was reviewing the procedure, that transmission should be in neutral.

Good job with the Uni-Strut. I've always thought that Uni-Strut could build almost anything.

Your dealer could help. Your dealer doesn't want to help. Anybody could look through Ford's or Thule's catalog, and call tech support. Go to a store which sells camper shells, ladder racks, etc. It's what the sell. They will sell and install it for you.

This has worked in a Jeep, pickup truck, Honda.......because i'm lazy, and not trying very hard to make things work. If you are lazy, like me:

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2015_Ford_Transit_Connect_XL_2.5L_4_Cyl._Mini_Cargo_Van/battery/replace_battery#

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2015_Ford_Transit_Connect_XL_2.5L_4_Cyl._Mini_Cargo_Van/battery/replace_battery