Fifty150

I do something similar, when possible. I like to use the return line (between the cooling system and transmission). My strategy is to allow the pump to push the fluid all the way through the cooling system. This allows me to see that the transmission pump is actually working, able to push fluid all the way through, and I can see that the transmission cooler is not clogged with contaminant. In theory, it's also "flushing" out the cooler. Otherwise, whatever contaminants may be in the cooler, will get pushed back into the transmission when you reconnect the cooling line. The Transit Connect transmission line connections are on top of the transmission. That is where the flush machine would connect. The van would be on a lift, the machine under it, and the tech would simply reach up in there to disconnect the cooling system and plug in the machine. If you unplug the line from there, you would need to connect your own hose, and it needs to have a compatible fitting. Not as easy to do with jack stands, laying on your back, limited lighting...... The other option is to disconnect the return line from the radiator. You will need a factory service manual to figure out which line to disconnect. Then you will need transmission hose with the correct fitting to connect to the radiator. Disconnect the return line, connect your own line, and fluid can be pumped into a bucket. I don't have a service manual. I have no idea which lines going in & out of the radiator serve which purpose. Not so sure of what kind of fitting attaches to the radiator. I don't even know how the cooling system is routed on the Transit Connect. I am fairly certain that the lines under the radiator hose, next to the transmission vent cap and running along the top of the transmission, are cooling and return lines. On other car forums, there's usually a guy who works at the dealership as a tech. That guy would simply post pics of the best place to disconnect, what special tools you will need, and the best way to tap into it. I suppose nobody on this forum is a dealership tech. Luckily, the drain plug is available, and the vent cap fill is easy. Maybe it's not 100% fresh fluid. But a triple drain & fill does a pretty good job. The math is easy. 4 liters is US 135 1/4 ounces 4 quarts = 1 gallon = 128 ounces. So if you have 4 quarts, or a 1 gallon bottle, you will still need a little more than 7 ounces. You could simply buy an extra quart. If you buy a case of 12 quarts, set 4 quarts aside, then steal a little bit from each of the other 8 quarts. Doesn't matter, since those are the quarts you will drain out. If you're really unsure of pouring out a little bit, and not trusting the marks on the side of your quart bottle..........get one of those little cups that you pee into. A lab specimen cup is marked with measurement lines, and free if you steal it from your doctor's office.

I still don't get it. I read, and reread your post. Why 3 quarts? Why would you pour the old fluid back in with 3 new quarts? Why not just refill with the same amount of old fluid that came out? Since you've already got the measuring cups out, you could just measure what came out, and refill with that same amount. No dipstick needed.

The fill is 4 liters. No guesswork. Just drain, and add 4 liters. That's easier than the 3 quart strategy you are describing. What's the 3 quart strategy about? Why 3 quarts? You could also use the fill plug to check for perfect fill level. I am lazy. 4 liters is in the owners manual. I am adding 4 liters.

It's PhotoShop

Has anyone else considered a drain & fill with every oil change, or every other oil change? I don't like the idea of only 4 liter of fresh fluid, then contaminating it. With a drain plug, it's just as much effort to perform the 3X drain & fill, and get more fresh fluid in there. But it's cheap, easy, and better than doing nothing. In the old days, people only dropped the pan, and considered it good enough.

With Fiberine, the problem is not the roof, it's the installation. Roof will be great. You can imagine all the things that could go wrong with a bad roof mod.

Ford transmissions use a transmission cooler bypass valve to "regulate" the low end of the temperature range. Until the transmission fluid reaches a preset temperature, the fluid bypasses the cooling system. But I don't think are is anything on the high end of the temperature range, except for the wrench light on your dash and the car going into "limp mode". So once the transmission fluid reaches the right temperature to enter the cooling system, the temperatures will continue to climb. Theory is that your cooling system works. If your transmission is heating beyond what the cooling system is capable of maintaining, you get the wrench light & go into limp mode. At that point, the transmission needs to be looked at. There's obviously something wrong, with either the transmission, or the cooling system. I have a ScanGauge II in the pickup. I can see transmission temps from 180 - 225. Sometimes the only variable is speed. Sometimes it's ambient temperature. Sometimes it's drive time. Sometimes it's driving up steep grades. Truck runs exactly the same. I haven't had any transmission problems like torque convertor shudder, slipping, not engaging, rough shift.....if I didn't have the gauge at all, I wouldn't know what the temperature readings are, and I would just drive it and think it's fine as long as smoke isn't coming out - like 9 out of 10 people who just drive their cars in ignorant bliss. Honestly, I don't think that you can find a published chart, anywhere, which will specifically detail that the 6F35 should operate between X temperature to Y temperature, and not exceed Z temperature. I've looked for similar information myself, with different cars, and it has been unsatisfying. Trying to find an answer which should exist, but does not. What you will find online, are generic charts which are antiquated and no longer relevant. They will show you that transmission fluid begins breaking down @ 200 - 225 - then show you how much damage happens as the temps rise. But these are old charts, generic and have nothing to do with low viscosity fluid in your 6F35. I did the 3X drain & fill today. The vent cap pops right out. Just lift it out of there with your fingers, no special tool needed. Drain plug came off with ease. I was worried that it was torqued down real tight at the factory, like the oil drain plugs. Not the case with the transmission drain plug. Filling was really easy using a plastic transmission funnel. I just happen to have a few left over from beer drinking parties. Just like this one: I got the van off the ground using UniJacks. Gave me a lot of room to crawl under and do whatever I wanted. I was completely safe. Van could have been lifted even higher if I needed to. I recommend these. Yes, that's right. Service work being done on a public street. You guys with your own lifts are so lucky!

There is no "normal". Every car is a little different. Every person has a different drive style. We all experience different road conditions. The real concern is overheating. Modern fluid with modern technology supposedly has much more heat tolerance, and is capable of operating at higher temperatures

If your cooling system is working, there's probably a certain temperature that the fluid does not rise beyond. Theory would be that system is engineered to operate at certain temperature range; never below x temp when warm, or above x temp.

Pens Pencils Birth Control Chewing Gum .......things you put in your mouth

Here you go. Dog catchers with automatic weapons.

I'm lazy. For me, the simplest solution is not to do all that work. I just want something to sleep on.

The prepaid cell phone, that you use to communicate with your girlfriends, so that your wife doesn't find out.

Walk us through, step by step. What to remove 1st. Any tips and tricks? Special tools? Anything hidden or tricky to watch for?

Just realized, as I was reviewing the procedure, that transmission should be in neutral.

Good job with the Uni-Strut. I've always thought that Uni-Strut could build almost anything.

Your dealer could help. Your dealer doesn't want to help. Anybody could look through Ford's or Thule's catalog, and call tech support. Go to a store which sells camper shells, ladder racks, etc. It's what the sell. They will sell and install it for you.

This has worked in a Jeep, pickup truck, Honda.......because i'm lazy, and not trying very hard to make things work. If you are lazy, like me:

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2015_Ford_Transit_Connect_XL_2.5L_4_Cyl._Mini_Cargo_Van/battery/replace_battery#

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2015_Ford_Transit_Connect_XL_2.5L_4_Cyl._Mini_Cargo_Van/battery/replace_battery

This vehicle has a very similar layout under the hood. Much of this will be the same.

On cars I've owned, when key is turned to first position, ACC, all dash warning lights will turn on to indicate that they work. Assumption is that your car should do the same thing. On most cars which fail government inspection, the obvious fix is usually a bulb or fuse. We know that the light can illuminate, which means you can rule out the first obvious test. No need to test the lamp. No need to test the fuse. The least expensive option is to download ForScan for free. ForScan can run "key on, engine off" and "key on, engine on" tests,. This may work if your vehicle is compatible with ForScan. There are a lot of scan tools on the market, and some are Ford specific. But buying your own electronic diagnostic equipment may also be cost prohibitive. You will need a computer and OBD II connector for Forscan. Most people suggest using a laptop computer with a cable, as opposed to a tablet computer with bluetooth and/or WiFi connection. The cable is stable, and there is less of a chance that you will lose connection to the computer in mid-test. A laptop could be plugged into an extension cord, so that you don't risk low battery failure in mid-test. The laptop computer version of ForScan may be a better version of the software. You could also do something obvious to trigger the check engine light, just to see that if there is a problem, the light will come on. I've heard of people taking the fuel cap off, then turning on the car. In theory, if the fuel cap is defective, loose, or off, the check engine light is suppose to turn on, to indicate that you have a problem. Another option is to use a wiring diagram and check wiring for a bad connection somewhere. Are there any independent service shops in your area who have diagnostic tools or diagnostic computers? Is there an independent shop in your area whom specializes in Ford vehicles. Some "tuner" shops, or "speed" shops, are more knowledgeable about electronic diagnostics since they dyno-tune, and may have better electronic diagnostic equipment than shops whom do mostly mechanical work. Some independent shops can perform the diagnostic for less than what Ford will charge you. There is also a person online, who has posted tons of great videos, and many follow his advice on repairs and maintenance. You could try contacting him. Maybe this is something that a professional mechanic sees, has a simple solution for, and us non-professionals just don't know about. As reference to the video below, this guy sees more than most people, and as he points it all out, it was all obvious and people just don't see what's in front of them. https://m.facebook.com/FordTechMakuloco/ https://www.youtube.com/user/FordTechMakuloco

After decades of bachelorhood, I have found her. Everything I want in a life companion. As many men before me, who found their true love online, with an angel on another continent whom was saving herself for the right American to come along. I will be packing up my Transit Connect, and moving to far off Eastern lands, to follow my heart. Now if only I can find a translator for her language. Anyone know what country she might be from?

It's exactly the same argument when people discuss using different motor oil. Some people feel that a higher weight and viscosity will be better. A common recurring theme is that full synthetic oil is a better option. Some people feel that European motor oil is better, and they will spend whatever to buy and ship it. In the cars of yesteryear, that may have been true. Most large truck owners feel that 10W-40 or 10W-30 is better. Maybe older cars did benefit from heavier oil. Thank goodness nobody with Transit Connect thinks that the small engine should use higher viscosity oil because it has to work harder at higher RPM. When I drove Jeeps, it was common to use a larger oil filter. Thought was that a larger filter would have more filter media. I don't know if an extra half inch will help or hurt. While filter media traps particulate matter, the oil additives are still wearing down. My own experience 1st hand is with years of driving commercial fleet vehicles. Only using the lowest cost oil and filters, they all averaged 50,000+ miles a year. Monthly oil changes. Always OEM spec oil weight, viscosity, and grade. We never gave up a car due to engine failure. most cars are retired out if repairs cost more than value of vehicle, and as funding is available. But if the budget does not allocate $50K for new car, then that car gets a new water pump, radiator, thermostat, timing belt, power steering pump, transmission, drive shaft, axle, brakes, and whatever else. As I look at The City's fleet, there are still '97 Crown Vics. No blown engines due to cheap oil & filter. I don't know if OEM spec is best. Sometimes it is just to keep cost down. Same way factory tuning is for CAFE numbers, and there's a lot of performance left out to improve fuel economy. I do know that the engineers designed the car, then the factory builds it, and the final product may not be the best product for sale. I question whether OEM parts under the hood can be improve or upgraded. That's why I am in the aftermarket customer base who will buy questionable parts. For me, I don't see any reason to use only Motorcraft oil and filters. Expensive retail does not indicate that oil or filter will provide added benefit. My current oil and filters choices are driven by pricing and availability.