Fifty150

Excellent point.

The pinch weld runs the entire length of the van from tire to tire. Lifting anywhere along the pinch weld is safe. I lift with a small floor jack, just a few inches, so that I can slide the UniJack under the pinch weld. Once I have a UniJack in front of each rear tire, and behind each front tire, right about where the "factory lift point" markings are, then I take my time raising the UniJacks to the height I want. I have the 3 ton model. You could probably use the 2 ton model. Just remember that these will not simply slide under your van, because the Transit Connect is so low to the ground. You will still need to start the lifting with a floor jack. Or maybe even use that scissor jack that came with your van. I already have photos posted on this thread. Just scroll up.

I'd be interested in the new Suzuki Jimny. Looks like a lot of fun.

For decades, I've seen fleet vehicles serviced with bulk oil and bulk filters. Always to spec, but never with OEM or name brand products. Engines never suffered catastrophic failure from cheap oil or filters. No bulk pack filter ever failed or blew off under heavy load. This taught me that if you change the oil when you are suppose to, it doesn't matter. Over the years, I've spent a fortune on boutique oil and high price filters. I don't think they did anything for any of my cars. Racing filters and special add-pack oil for high performance engines......for my daily commuter and grocery getter. I have decided to buy whatever oil which meets spec; on sale, with a coupon, or rebate. Discount lube shops and fleet service companies all over the country, install millions of units annually, and yet, you don't hear about the hundreds of thousands of seized engines from such application. I am not saying that a K&N filter is bad. I'm not saying that $1 filters are just as good as K&N. I think that the generic, bulk filters will work as intended, for the OEM spec oil change interval, with any brand oil which meets spec. No extended oil change intervals. No performance engine oil. You aren't using the Mobil oil filter with Mobil 1 oil? Or K&N?

I'm wondering if ForScan will allow you to reset the Oil Life Monitor. Try stepping on both pedals fully with the ignition off. Then turn the key to the first position. At my last oil change, I only used 5 quarts. Owners manual specifies 5.7 quarts. Dipstick has 2 holes, and a crosshatch marking which starts at the bottom hole, and goes to just beyond the midway point to the top hole. 5 quarts completely covers the crosshatch section. 5.7 quarts goes just past the top hole. Current owners manual shows that 0W-20 is an alternative oil. Motor oil manufacturers are now bottling 0W-20 with the label reading "suitable for SAE 5W-20". I used 0W-20 for my last oil change. I also use an FL400S filter, which is a little longer. My belief is that the longer canister has more filtration media.

I press both pedals all the way.

There is some discussion on here about the transmission fluid not really being lifetime fluid. If you are not hauling a lot of weight or a heavy trailer IMO the transmission fluid is good for 50,000 to 60,000 miles, I would change it then. Lifetime automatic transmission fluid has been an issue for every car. In 1939, Chrysler already had a version of Lifetime Fluid & Lifetime Transmission. In 1967, Ford Type F fluid was suppose to be a lifetime fluid. 1974 Ford Car Shop Manual reads "The automatic transmission is filled at the factory with "lifetime" fluid. A lot of manufacturers have been down this road, with lifetime fluid, and failed transmissions. In theory, that fluid really is "lifetime". The transmission is not "lifetime". Even if the fluid was perfect, the moving parts of the transmission still heat up, wear, shear metal - friction, heat, moving parts - something will eventually give. And all of this "lifetime" refers back to when the life of the car was thought to be 100,000 miles. Truth is that the fluid really is a lifetime fluid, in controlled laboratory conditions. In a sealed system, the loop of fluid from transmission, to cooler, returning to transmission - the synthetic fluid does not degrade to a point where it fails to lubricate & protect the moving parts of the transmission. No car has a hermetically sealed system. Your automatic transmission fluid, just like your motor oil, will suffer from oxidation, caused by oxygen & water from condensation. If you casually cruise the interweb, read forums with opinions from everyone who isn't a factory transmission engineer, and then watch YouTube self produced videos from everyone who isn't a factory transmission engineer.......you will get a lot of information, or misinformation. Ford has been using variants of this 6 speed transmission for about a decade, in a lot of makes and models, with different degrees of success and failure. I don't know if any, or all, of those transmission failures are in any way related to degraded fluid. If the transmission is bad, it would also fail with fresh fluid. I just changed my fluid at 25,000 miles. PhotoAl is planning on 50,000 or 60,000 miles. Other forum members have their own ideas of what they want to do. A lot of people point at 30,000 miles. Some people will only use Ford Mercon LV. Other people will use other ATF. One guy plans to drain his transmission, add 3 fresh quarts, then fill the transmission with the contaminated fluid he just drained out. Other people will drain & fill with fresh fluid; which will then mix with contaminated fluid inside of the torque converter. I will continue to follow the 6F35 service recommendation from Ford; a 3X drain & fill. Dealerships use a transmission fluid exchange machine, which is more efficient, replaces the the fluid 100%, does it in less time, and uses less fluid than the factory service manual calling for a triple drain & fill. Factory service recommendation, where vehicle is on a lift, is to place the transmission in neutral. A lot of people do it in park, and claim it does not make a difference. You will have to figure out what you want to do. If you can change the motor oil, you can change the transmission fluid; which actually makes Transit Connect very easy to service yourself. No pan to drop. No pan to reseal. The underbody cover removes with T27 torx bit. They are not on tight. You can remove easily with a 1/4" drive ratchet handle. Transit Connect has marked lift points, and will lift easily with a floor jack. Support with jack stands. I favor UniJacks. As with all UniBody vehicles, you can safely lift from pinch weld of subframe. Ramps are nice for oil changes, but not as helpful if you need to lift the entire vehicle, since it's not advisable to drive up onto 4 ramps at the same time. Ramps aren't the best option if you need to take off a wheel. But for oil changes, they are great. If you are doing more than an oil change, you will need more lift and support tools. On my 2016, the dipstick has 2 holes. Between the holes, there is a cross-hatch marked area from the bottom hole, going a little more than halfway to the top hole. A 5 quart fill goes to the top of the cross-hatch marking. 5.7 quart fill, which is in the owners manual, brings oil level up to and slightly beyond the top hole. I am using an FL400S oil filter, which is just a little longer than the FL910S filter recommended in the owners manual.

For Transit Connect, the mods are all for looks. Some might argue that you will have less weight and better aerodynamics. But nothing is going into the engine. But we've already been down that road. It's laughable to think that you can turn Transit Connect into a sports car.

I fairly certain that if you pay for shipping, they will send parts to you. I'm just not sold. A lot of money. All for aesthetics, with zero performance gain. But I get it. Plenty of people will pay for good looks. That's why these companies are in business.

Has anyone seen this on the road yet?

Interesting. Water pump was an issue also. Something to keep an eye on. Glad that everything was covered under warranty.

I performed a triple drain and fill @ 25,000 miles. I will probably do it again every 25,000 miles. I also plan on the spark plugs and COPs at 50,000 miles. Maybe drain and fill the coolant also. I'm guilty of over-maintenance.

In every group, there are people who "over maintain". Apparently, with some Transit Connect owners, we are paranoid of transmission failure. There you are @ 100,000 miles, and your transmission is just fine with the factory fill. Maybe now somebody will scratch their head, and wonder if they really do need to spend $20 for their next drain & fill. May not be necessary.

Jrm223, Have you changed your automatic transmission fluid yet?

High 5

The 70's was a turbulent decade.

Sounds more reasonable. One of the scams is for a shop to send out coupons for 20K, 40K, 50K service. For X-Dollars, they inspect a whole list of parts on your car car. Filters, Belts. Hoses. Fluid condition. Brakes. Exhaust piping. AND always - spark plugs. The tech and service writer bring the worn parts into the waiting room for you to see what condition it is. Then they get to give you an upsell to replace all of those parts. If you are not so car savvy, you fall for the coupon special where they take off a bunch of parts, show them to you, then put them back on. Unless it's new, every part looks worn. If you are not car savvy, you spend much more for changing all those parts. My rule is if I take it off, a new one goes back on. Same effort now. Why do the same job again later?

5 quarts is just about midway on the hashmark range of the dipstick. My Transit Connect was recently in the dealership. Technician drained the engine, filled with 5 quarts. I just changed oil a few days ago. I used 5 quarts. I will monitor, and add extra oil if needed. For now, it's halfway on the dipstick hashmark range; which to me, is fine.

Here is what they look like, with the Transit Connect. All tires are off the ground by about 2". Just enough room for my fat belly and butt to crawl under. Plenty of room to go even higher.

It was claimed that MotorCraft spark plugs are good for 100,000 mile. Now a lot of people are changing at 50,000, 60,000, or 75,000. Some people say that plugs are fine, unless they misfire. Others say change them at certain mileage, so that they don't misfire. In your case, change them now. You already have misfire. Some people say to reuse the Coil On Plug. Other people install new units, since it's just as much effort. Some people change the rubber spark plug boot only. Cost is the factor. Coil Over Plug units are about $50+. Misfire can result from bad spark plug, bad COP, or deteriorated rubber boot on the COP. COP are sold with boot attached. Boot can be purchased separately. You could replace just the plugs, and be fine. If there's still misfire, pull the COP, and change the boots. If there's still misfire, change the COP. Or change the COP when changing plugs, and you will be fine. A lot of people believe that you should only use MotorCraft ignition parts. I have used other brands without issue. Stay away from low cost spark plugs. Aftermarket iridium plugs should be fine. I have used E3 plugs in Ford engines without issue.

Your findings have merit. Now we know that Valvoline MaxLife works. We will also know about Triax, after your cycle.

Just did an oil change. I used this stuff, since it was cheap & I am cheap: Found this funnel in my garage. Perfect fit for Transit Connect. Tucked right in under the cowling.

Why wait? Just do it at 25,000 miles. That's my strategy. I'll just do it every 25,000 miles. With Transit Connect's Oil Life Monitor, that could be 3 oil changes. I did mine yesterday. Since I already had the fluid, and I wanted to change the oil on all the cars before summer. Car was already jacked up. Tools were out. Buckets & funnels were out. Should I wait for 50,000 miles before I do it all over again? Or should I just drain & fill with every oil change?