Fifty150

When it comes to modifications, everyone wants to see how you did not. Looks good. Interesting placement, right in the middle. Whomever gets to ride in that seat gets a great view of the road.

Mr. Jackson, it sounds like you have found an excellent solution. Please post photos so that we can copy what you've done.

Heater core, maybe. Hoses deliver coolant to the heater core and return the radiator fluid back to the cooling system. A fan blows that heat into your passenger cabin. That is one way the odor of antifreeze can enter your cabin.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/ Download Owner Manuals To download the Owner Manual, Warranty Guide or Scheduled Maintenance Guide, select your vehicle information: Select Year Choose Year 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 Select Make Choose Make Select Model Choose Model https://owner.ford.com/tools/account/how-tos/owner-manuals.html Owner Manuals To view your vehicle's owner manuals, please sign in or select a vehicle. You can also view all owner manuals for all vehicles. In the old days, transmission flush machines did knock things loose, and caused transmission failures, because the machine pumped cleaning formula into the transmission to "flush". . Back then, you would drop the pan, clean it out, and drain the torque converter if a service plug was available. This was considered safer than to machine flush the transmission with high pressure and cleaning agents. Today's modern transmission fluid exchangers are different. They don't "flush" like the old machines. The machine hooks up to the transmission's cooling and return lines. The car is turned on, and the transmission's pump pushes fluid out the cooling line. The machine contains fresh fluid which is added back to the transmission at the return line. Your vehicle should be in good hands at a dealership. However, you can independent shops with the right transmission fluid exchanger. Just ask them what kind of equipment they have and how it works. If they aren't willing to discuss the equipment and process, then you don't need to go to that shop. Your vehicle was in commercial service when owned by Hobart. You are using the vehicle as a commercial vehicle. Follow the severe duty maintenance schedule. Service the transmission every 30,000 miles. Belts. Hoses. Water pump. Thermostat. Brake fluid. Power steering fluid. Air conditioning chemical. Air filter. Cabin air filters. Coolant. Spark plugs. COP ignition. You will get a lot of opinions about the tune-up parts. Some people will tell you that it's a waste of money to replace any of those items, and just wait until you actually need new parts. Do you want to be the guy who "needs" new parts? In the middle of your work day, as you are already behind on service call appointments, is that a good time to "need" a new part? No better time to have a drive belt fail or a hose burst. You'll only be on the side of the road, hoping that your engine didn't overheat to the point of failure. Then you lose all of the work for the rest of that day, and maybe the next day, until you get a replacement van. Not to mention that it would hurt your reputation. Commercial customer waiting for you to repair his walk-in's compressor, loses his entire inventory and all of his sales for the day. That guy won't be calling you back to fix his ice machine. The Coil-Over-Plug ignition has to be removed for you to change the spark plugs. Some people will tell you to carefully clean, inspect, and reinstall the existing COP. My approach is to simply replace and install a new part. Less effort and easier to just open the package and put a new one on top of your new spark plug. After all, you didn't remove, inspect, and clean your spark plugs; just to reinstall the old spark plugs. And you're not really going to wait until the spark plugs foul and your engine misfires, before you replace them. Same way you're not waiting for the engine to build up sludge and seize, before changing the oil/. There are already several threads on mounts for cell phones and such. I used a cell phone mount to cradle my tablet on the dash. Working so far. Nothing fancy or expensive. If the van doesn't have one already, get a roof rack for tools and ladders. You may also want a hitch receiver, as a small trailer will come in handy for transporting washers, dryers, stoves, et cetera.

You bought pee, off Amazon? You are pouring pee into your HVAC?

How do you like the way your Transit Connect rides in the rain?

That dealer is probably correct. You will find very little in the way of aftermarket upgrades and accessories for Transit Connect. Transit Connect specific aftermarket parts are almost limited to floor mats, vent visors, and maybe seat covers. There is a dash & install kit if you are interested in an aftermarket radio. There is a K&N filter which works for late model Transit Connect, some other Ford with the same engine and airbox. No exhaust kit or intake. I've found 1 aftermarket wheel with the same exact specs as the OEM wheel. I'm still looking for the curtains, which are popular in other countries, but never seen in The USA.

I've never seen that on Transit Connect.

High 5. I'm in The City. Just look for the white Transit Connect, with OEM hubcaps. I'll try to waive back if I don't have a drink in my hand.

Easily? No. I don't think you'll get all 3 seats from the 2nd generation into the 1st generation. But you should be able to install 2 out of 3. Nothing will be easy. But you can drill holes, and probably weld them in. They won't be perfect, or pretty. But someone will be able to sit in them. Now your problem will be the seat belts. Middle seat in a 2nd generation has a seatbelt & buckle. Driver side seat will have a buckle, but the belt is attached to the "c pillar" of the van. You will not have airbags to protect those passengers. It may be easier for you to buy generic seats.

Serramonte Ford was not able to do it for me. I will look for another dealership. Maybe a different tech at a different shop.

GBL, you are absolutely correct. Actually, a lot more should be made available to the owner of the vehicle. Wouldn't a lot of us like to be able to see real time temperatures, and diagnostic values? Maybe even see the Diagnostic Trouble Code instead of just a "check engine light". Since OBD II protocol became a standard in 96 or 97, people have been buying code readers, software, OBD II to USB cables, ScanGauge, SCT LiveWire, HonData, and everything else to allow them to view information which is already on the vehicle. I'm sure that there are very good reasons why they don't want the owner to have access to this information. Every manufacturer has the technology to allow us to read the information.

Your write-up was awesome. Speaking only for myself, I appreciate your contribution. Thank you very much.

Some people would rather suffer the worst case scenario. A blowout is preferred, in lieu of safety features. When the safety pin was invented, those same people would have argued that it wasn't needed. They have eyes. They could see the pin stabbing their infant through the diaper. They could have seen the blood and heard the infant crying. Your phone has more technology, than what went to the moon. But do you really believe that man actually went to the moon? ??

Of you are ready to remove the center console, you can make it fit. Still new holes for bolting it in. Weld it if you have to. I have thought about removing the console and installing jump seats from an old Jeep. Wildly impractical, uncomfortable, and illegal.

That was an awesome tutorial.

Factory HID are great! Drop in HID kits, not so great. Same with LED. Some cars now have factory LED, which are awesome. Drop in LED kits, not so awesome.

Any chick who rode in a Subaru Brat, will also respond to, "I've got a bottle Quaaludes in the pocket of my Members Only jacket."

When I used halogen headlights, I tended to favor the Hella brand. Just a little more wattage. Just a little brighter.

I've always thought that the Mustang was the perfect platform for building an electric Tesla Fighter.

Good idea. Don't wait on it. Especially the transmission. Although you never really hear of it, the coolant is important. You don't want electrolysis in the cooling system.

Try jumping pin 7 to 2, first. With any luck, that should release your door. If that works, you will know that everything from there, to the door, is good. Take a good look at the below diagrams, and make sure that what you are looking at on your car matches what you are seeing on the diagrams.

You shouldn't cut the entire door off. That's a waste of a perfectly good door. ?

Check everything electronic, check