mrtn

Oh, should have been more clear: I did not convert from auto to manual, I swapped the gearbox to Focus one which has a taller main gear. It was a direct fit.

Gasoline is 1.1/L (4.16/US gal) LPG is 0.49/L The LPG consumption is up to +20% compared to gasoline so I am looking at ca 45% savings. EDIT: just handed the van over. Regarding the spare wheel: I'll get a space saver and fix it to the cargo area, possibly to the left wall for longer drives. I usually just use the foam.

It's not mine yet but I ordered this one: http://www.prinsautogas.com/en/products/directliquimax_system/directliquimax_system.htmlThis specific model is designed for direct injection engines and the tank replaces the spare tire. The LPG is fed directly into fuel line before the high pressure pump.

I'm averaging 24-25 in mixed driving right now. LPG device going in next Tuesday. Should increase by 45% in monetary equivalent.

You can always go for diesel battery (80-100Ah).

Enter your VIN in Ford ETIS and pull the full configuration list. Every single option is listed there, including the window automation if equipped.

Shaking under load is usually a CV-joint/drive shaft issue. There could also be something wrong with streering knuckles or suspension parts like shocks and/or engine/gearbox mounts. These diesel engines tend to have a flat spot somewhere around 2000 rpm but almost cutting out is a bit extreme, true. Any decent garage should be able to diagnose this quickly.

My Mk1's rear drum brakes have been a weak spot, requiring service way too often, front disks are okay.

You mean the polyurethane floor coating, Kyle?

The button is under the front edge (towards yourself), you have to press this to unlatch it.

Yes, mine has one over the rear wheel well.

Exactly. Look for the inverter and/or wall socket.

I mean there's a wall socket somewhere, not the cigarette plug. Usually it's a device like this and it may be hidden somewhere and switched on all the time:

OK, I'll be a more specific: by AC I mean alternating current, the inverter I meant is a DC (direct current, 12V your car produces) to AC device so you can have a "wall outlet" in your car to use power tools etc. There's probably some accessory like the inverter there which the key switch was for.

My dealer told me that the factory tow bar also enables the trailer stability control. Not sure if it's some resistor in the wiring or does it have to be enabled in the ECU.

Do you have access to an ampermeter (any multimeter will do) to measure how much is being drained? The amperage will guide you to it. Is there an AC inverter somewhere?

Which remote fob are you using? I have this key with remote:

Doesn't work for me, might be a wagon only thing.

The middle seat is really only usable for children. I have the seat back down for most of the time as it's a desk and a cup holder combo.

Not sure how US looks at this but over here you need to install the seats, seat belts, pass the DMV inspection and they issue you a new title. Also there needs to be a safety separator between the passenger and cargo compartment (a net or a bulkhead) if the van is registered for cargo hauling.

Always loved these wheels. They're standard in many Ford models at Titanium trim level. I've thought of getting a set but they only look good in large sizes and low profile tires. Can't go up as mine's registered as a commercial vehicle and the tire size is listed in registration. Also looks great on S-Max:

I have a manual A/C and if you turn the temp knob to zero it automatically switches to internal circulation. It gets cold pretty quick. A bit weak if it's hot outside. Having your rear windows tinted always helps.

Picture that parking sensors cost less than $15 nowadays. Reverse camera about the same plus LCD.

My friend has just bought these for his Beemer: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p165-si. We're probably gonna install them this weekend. Need adapters which I'm fabricating from ventilation parts right now. If they sound great I'm gonna get a pair myself.

This topic has been beaten to death here. Rules of thumb: 1. solder all door connections if you don't care to redo plugs 2. stick PLENTY of sound deadening mat in the the doors, also anchor the outer sheetmetal to the collision beam, total mat layers 2..4 layers 3. after sound deadening spray rust prevention wax in the bottom of the doors until it starts dripping out from the drain holes.