mrtn

Fog light switches, top: front and bottom: rear.

Brodit has two more location options. Check their website.

Is your light switch the same but just in one piece then without the middle knob?

It's been done but it requires the whole loom from a donor car, not just the stalk. Someone did it with Mondeo bits IIRC.

No prob:

The adjustment knob pops out of the headlight switch. Just push the middle spot and adjust. Change to Osram Nightbreakers, makes a big difference at legal power levels.

Thanks. The tank looks like a spare. I thought of ordering a space saver but then discovered the original spare fits in the boot like a glove. I also have a can of Fix-a-flat foam. The gauges are independent (ECU cannot display LPG economy figures, it thinks it's gasoline), you can see the Prins button which selects the fuel source. The Prins logo is lit when the engine is running on LPG. The intensity of the LED under the button is ambient light sensitive, really nice touch.The button also has its own level indicator, see the arc of squares. The leftmost square turns amber (from normal blue) when there's 50 miles worth of LPG left. Running out it beeps and switches to gasoline.

Thanks for asking. I'm yet to learn the car's language but I'm trying to explain the immediate experience: throttle response is noticeably mushier on LPG right after you have switched the fuel source but you only register it for a little while and get used to it. Torque response is similar, it can still climb 12% inclines at 1500 rpm with no downshift there are moments when it takes a few seconds (2-3) to crank before the engine starts, this is due to the reason of LPG thinning at the injection pump. The circulation system takes care of having fresh LPG everywhere in the system but it may change at the right temperature and moment the shift points at acceleration are a bit higher running on LPG 20.6 mpg all time average on LPG for the 2400 LPG miles, total cost €225 So I'm almost at 50% savings in fuel costs. There's a significant pump capability difference in different stations, some are able to fill an additional gallon or more before stalling.

Anyone should be able to do it in an hour (plus getting the silicone tube, locking nuts and washers from a hardware store).

Yes, of course. So if the TC manual shifter mech fits the Fiesta box you're probably all good. Both 5- and 6-speeds are available for the TC.

I don't think the 1.6 Ecoboost has been sold with a manual anywhere. It was only available with the 6-speed auto over here. and we get every manual transmission there is, always. There's manual for the 1.0 Ecoboost and all diesels.

If you look at the pad kit instructions, it has square pads that sit in the bottom of the gutter and fasten with the included bolt. You will probably need to get a washer and a locking nut for the inside as there is no tread, unlike the pad kit instructions pic which show the internal tread for the roof. Check your roof, you can probably see the plastic plugs from the inside, I can see mine. The holes are easily accessible. Make sure to seal the pads and the hole with sanitary silicone to prevent leaks. EDIT: You need to click on "view details". Theres the instruction list. Kit here: https://cdn1.static-tgdp.com/assetloader.axd?pimid=KIT3138&id=183138_509-3138-01&brand=Thule&market=US

As I have understood, the models that came without the rails from the factory have nothing but penetrating holes in the roof and no threads under them to fasten the rack to. You can access the holes from inside the cargo space so you can bolt anything with matching holes or adjustable pads. Thule has a matching kit for the van: https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/roof-rack?q=VKZXALqWt There seem to be pads that go to the rain gutter and then you fix the standard thule rack attachment to it.

Ordered a model-specific Brodit phone holder base and Arkon-type swivel mount for my existing third party wireless charger/holder. Here's the base on Brodit website. It clicks into existing console/vent gaps and does not require any tools to install. Had Brodit bits in all my cars, because it don't leave a mark when removed for selling the car. The phone is a bit too near the steering wheel due to the base-swivel-holder combined thickness but manageable. If you take the base and phone-specific holder from them it's going to be much thinner.

I would have Ford figure this out as it's under warranty. My old diesel TC from 2006 ate engine mounts for breakfast and clunked every time but this car is way too new for anything like this.

It may be because of the 3rd row option and its accessibility. You can easily climb to the back if there are only two seats in the middle.

The hit-and-run type posters usually post 3 times total (before disappearing) regarding their particular issue and never search older posts or topics on the same issue, even if the topic is on page one.

There are plenty of aftermarket wheels available. Most FWD Ford, Volvo ja Jaguar wheels fit.

We get it, we get it. Beautiful wheels, btw.

That depends on the installation. Most factory CNG machines have a small petrol tank just for backup. If yours has an add-on CNG tank then it is perfectly usable for both with an extended range. There's no disadvantage to using petrol fuel other than what you mentioned. I'm running LPG and it's roughly half the cost of petrol use. Fuel price is .476 vs 1.046 per liter as of today.

My 1.6 is LWB so it's just a marketing issue.

Quality UV-laminated print will last for 5+ years, no discoloration.

Me neither. Stuff's always rolling on the floor.

I'll be relining mine soon. Tar mat first, then aluminum composite plates on top. Should protect the bare metal parts from dents from inside out. Should also help with noise levels.

Most have barn doors here. Liftgates are rare and exclusive to passenger vans.