mrtn

This topic has been beaten to death here. Rules of thumb: 1. solder all door connections if you don't care to redo plugs 2. stick PLENTY of sound deadening mat in the the doors, also anchor the outer sheetmetal to the collision beam, total mat layers 2..4 layers 3. after sound deadening spray rust prevention wax in the bottom of the doors until it starts dripping out from the drain holes.

This is just tape measured, not modeled or anything, hold your horses. Under the driver seat only, I have a fold-up passenger seat (I have a 3-seater) so can't use that.

They cost half of TC price over here. No wonder.

I have just measured the space under the seat to build my own sub. Rough measurements are 500 x 350 x 180 mm. Not too big. I'll make a mockup, a 3D model and have it milled soon.

Yes, I found the trac off setting right away. It was in "settings" menu. Is it really that much worse in action than in other cars?

Yeah, I have noticed the info display being a bit confusing. I'll look it up. The manual (at least the translated one) is a bit plain, not as much info as there used to be a decade ago.

Get a flashlight. You find the top spot in the area which is wet. That's the closest under the leak. Windscreen needs to be reattached if it leaks.

You can trace the origin with a bright light. All suggestions are good, the door seal the least likely. Windscreen seal is another one I'd check.

Good info. I don't think I have noticed a Trac off button anywhere. The vinyl is Avery Supreme wrapping film, gloss black metallic. It has a brown subtone instead of the usual blue in black metallics. It is pressure sensitive, bubble free and heat formed. The roof is made with 3M 1080-series wrapping vinyl, gloss black, no metallic. I have more pics and I'll make an album once I get to the computer. iPad is useless for that.

Only UK/Ireland/channel islands, Malta and Cyprus are RHD in Europe. All the rest are normal.

Allrightie then:

Pretty sure it does not. However you can get an amp and/or a sub with speaker level input.

It's on:

This looks like a ground switch. You should be able to bypass it. Do you have a standard Ford key for ignition?

First time hearing about something like this. Time for this:

Yeah. I need to learn to read. Sorry. My brain visualized a standard RV conversion with the rear seats removed.

I know the van measurements from memory: 190 cm floor level (75") 175 cm middle level (69") This is from the rear door to the bulkhead, which is tight against the seat backs.

I know

Here goes:

Are you looking for protection against bugs and stone chips? You could do without the bra, try stone chip protection film from 3M or Xpel and or a vinyl wrap on top of it.

Method of what?

2nd and 4th shifter movements are less than an inch apart, perhaps 20 mm.

How many miles on it? TDDi is an excellent engine if serviced in time. The chain is used for fuel pump only. Camshaft is belt-driven. Is the ticking also there when the engine is hot? Sometimes a wrong spec oil may cause all kinds of ticking noises. You need very specific Ford oil for this one. Here's some background info on the engine: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Endura-D_engine I'm not sure what do you consider to be close but I can measure my shifter movement for reference. It's true the throws are short and precise clicks like in a sports car. Fun to drive. Wobbles at speed are usually caused by wheel balancing, loose tie rod ends or bad shocks. You should feel a damaged tire at all speeds. No clunks? I have no idea on the vent issue, sorry. If the seal is leaking then just remove and reattach it with plenty of silicone and be done with it.

Might work if the PCD matches. I think these clip on the wheel nuts.

Someone called the up-shift light "fun driving" indicator. I found it hilarious.