mrtn

LMGTFY

Errrr, what? :D The only RHD countries in Europe are Cyprus, Malta, Great Britain + Ireland + channel islands.

That's new. Zetec was an engine family used in Escorts and other small cars.

I have used the same nuts for both with no issues on both my old Connects. So not much help here. I see you have "Zetec" engine listed in your profile. Are you sure it's not Ecoboost?

LPG and other variants are widely available in every other station. One is a few miles from my house. I don't think there is any extra tax on it. Everything is included in the fuel price. Socialist are not in charge yet so no aux road tax. Cargo vehicles (vans, pickups, lorries) get full sales tax return on running costs. The toroid tank is 65L (17 US gal) IIRC.

I'm not sure where to get the parts breakdown?

The pic is from the internet and it's from a Transit Custom. Could not find one for the Connect but it looks identical.

€2300 incl installation. 18 month breakeven point for me.

The top of the instrument cluster lifts up and there a storage compartment with a 12V socket.

Oh, should have been more clear: I did not convert from auto to manual, I swapped the gearbox to Focus one which has a taller main gear. It was a direct fit.

Gasoline is 1.1/L (4.16/US gal) LPG is 0.49/L The LPG consumption is up to +20% compared to gasoline so I am looking at ca 45% savings. EDIT: just handed the van over. Regarding the spare wheel: I'll get a space saver and fix it to the cargo area, possibly to the left wall for longer drives. I usually just use the foam.

It's not mine yet but I ordered this one: http://www.prinsautogas.com/en/products/directliquimax_system/directliquimax_system.htmlThis specific model is designed for direct injection engines and the tank replaces the spare tire. The LPG is fed directly into fuel line before the high pressure pump.

I'm averaging 24-25 in mixed driving right now. LPG device going in next Tuesday. Should increase by 45% in monetary equivalent.

You can always go for diesel battery (80-100Ah).

Enter your VIN in Ford ETIS and pull the full configuration list. Every single option is listed there, including the window automation if equipped.

Shaking under load is usually a CV-joint/drive shaft issue. There could also be something wrong with streering knuckles or suspension parts like shocks and/or engine/gearbox mounts. These diesel engines tend to have a flat spot somewhere around 2000 rpm but almost cutting out is a bit extreme, true. Any decent garage should be able to diagnose this quickly.

My Mk1's rear drum brakes have been a weak spot, requiring service way too often, front disks are okay.

You mean the polyurethane floor coating, Kyle?

The button is under the front edge (towards yourself), you have to press this to unlatch it.

Yes, mine has one over the rear wheel well.

Exactly. Look for the inverter and/or wall socket.

I mean there's a wall socket somewhere, not the cigarette plug. Usually it's a device like this and it may be hidden somewhere and switched on all the time:

OK, I'll be a more specific: by AC I mean alternating current, the inverter I meant is a DC (direct current, 12V your car produces) to AC device so you can have a "wall outlet" in your car to use power tools etc. There's probably some accessory like the inverter there which the key switch was for.

My dealer told me that the factory tow bar also enables the trailer stability control. Not sure if it's some resistor in the wiring or does it have to be enabled in the ECU.

Do you have access to an ampermeter (any multimeter will do) to measure how much is being drained? The amperage will guide you to it. Is there an AC inverter somewhere?