LIFT!!

[MLB]

On 1/4/2019 at 8:39 PM, Fifty150 said:

Okay guys.  Here is a Toyota Sienna with a lift kit.  Nothing is over the counter.  Every part is custom fabricated.  Gives Transit Connect owners an idea of what they could look forward to.

 

 

 

Wow thats fugly!

[Fifty150]

That looks like the only way to get bigger wheels & tires.

[Eddy Kilowatt]

On 10/19/2018 at 10:01 PM, G B L said:

I am running  215/60/16 on my TC and the ride is better the handling and shifting performance is the same and the Speedometer error is 2 mph .  I consider it a very nice improvement on the TC

 

I'm curious about this too.  I looked around briefly (i.e., typed that tire size into Tire Rack's search) and didn't see anything with the XL/97 load rating.

[foof]

6 hours ago, Eddy Kilowatt said:

 

I'm curious about this too.  I looked around briefly (i.e., typed that tire size into Tire Rack's search) and didn't see anything with the XL/97 load rating.

 

Michelin crossclimate is 99V in that size.  I suspect the Xice would be too. 

[G B L]

I am running a set of these  on the TC Tire rack has both the Load 95 or the Load 99 tires. I am running the 99 extra load.  They are preforming well so far.

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[JustinVP]

I'm thinking about a small lift, so wanted to jump into this thread. I'm on a '16 Wagon, and drive a lot of forest roads. An extra inch to clear water bars and cobbles/rocks in the road would be nice. Gideon, did you end out doing this?

 

I'll probably go with Geolandar G015 tires when my OEM Conti's are toast in a few months. Just one notch bigger than OEM, gives me .4" extra clearance.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+A%2FT+G015&partnum=16HR6G015&i1_Qty=4

 

Then it looks like Spaccers are the only real lift option?  Good grief they're expensive for what they are. Leaning toward the 15mm/.6" Spaccer option for a total of 1" lift. Not too crazy, hopefully won't mess things up. A better/cheaper option could be air adjustable rear shocks, but couldn't find any. Not sure those are a thing anymore, but growing up in the 80's we used them.  I've never torn into the suspension of a modern car, so no clue what I'm doing on whatever the heck struts are :)

 

A couple Q's:

Can I align this thing properly once I put the .5 - .75" lift on it?  It's not too extreme, so I'd think so. 

 

Anyone strut/spring spacers yet?  Easy to do by the home mechanic who doesn't have specialty auto tools? It looks like I might need a spring compressor to do it, but not sure if that'll work on this car. 

[Gideon]

I had rubber spacers put in (rear only - no can do front) over the coils, NOT inside coils. Even so, they came out after couple months. I've given up on lifts as my budget can't handle higher expense [for what it gives].  I have gone with '60' series (rather than stock '55's) tires for winter and like them {no TPMS - hand gauge is good enough and MUCH cheaper}, so will go that route when its time to replace the regular tires. 

BTW, my summer fuel consumption, towing 1500lbs tent-trailer and with AC full on is around 30miles/gal (cdn) at 105 Km/h. 2016 wagon.

Edited December 22, 2019 by Gideon

[Gideon]

I do wonder if gas-charged or air shocks are worth the expense, and just what would they do for ride height?  AS you, I'm only looking for 1 - 2 inch extra height to clear rocks/pot holes (at campgrounds) and high sidewalks.

Edited December 22, 2019 by Gideon

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

9 hours ago, Gideon said:

I had rubber spacers put in (rear only - no can do front) over the coils, NOT inside coils. Even so, they came out after couple months. I've given up on lifts as my budget can't handle higher expense [for what it gives].  I have gone with '60' series (rather than stock '55's) tires for winter and like them {no TPMS - hand gauge is good enough and MUCH cheaper}, so will go that route when its time to replace the regular tires. 

BTW, my summer fuel consumption, towing 1500lbs tent-trailer and with AC full on is around 30miles/gal (cdn) at 105 Km/h. 2016 wagon.

Easiest way by far (probably most cost effective too) is to increase the height of the tires. Since you only mention the aspect ratio, I assume you meant going with 215/60s instead of the stock 215/55s. An increase in the width will also gain a little height as well, so you could easily go to 225/60s and if you aren't adverse to the different size front to back you could also gain a little height in the rear with 235/60s back there. The extra width WILL NOT create ANY problems involving rim width or offset or back spacing.

It won't get you 2 inches but will gain .9" in the rear and .6" in front.

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

On 1/5/2019 at 11:16 PM, Fifty150 said:

That looks like the only way to get bigger wheels & tires.

Bigger tires yes, bigger wheels don't gain anything.

[JustinVP]

12 hours ago, Gideon said:

I had rubber spacers put in (rear only - no can do front) over the coils, NOT inside coils.

 

Yeah, we’re after the same basic goal. As are a few other people in my little world of mountain biking in the PNW - I now a couple other people that would like a small lift. This is the perfect rig for hauling stuff to the trail w/out guzzling too much gas.

 

Why won’t rubber spacers work in the front? Do you know if the Spaccer branded uber-expensive spacers work in the front of these?

[G B L]

Went to 60 series tires two Sets ago, better ride, more forgiving to road damage. No noticable performance impact.

[Fifty150]

You probably have the best solution.  I am sure that a little extra sidewall makes the ride softer. I wonder how much extra width, makes the traction better.  And how much more of a wider tire you can fit with a wider wheel.

 

Years ago, before you could actually recalibrate the speedometers, most truck and Jeep guys simply got bigger tires.  Period.  Nothing was recalibrated, or reprogrammed.  And if you got a tire big enough, you used a spacer to push it out, and cut off body parts which rubbed.  Not that I endorse taking a reciprocating saw to your wheel wells and fenders.  

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

40 minutes ago, Fifty150 said:

And how much more of a wider tire you can fit with a wider wheel. 

 

That's sort of like asking how long is a piece of string.?

225/60/16 is 26.6" diameter and you won't fit anything wider under the front at that diameter, at least not without rubbing on rough terrain, not without body modification anyway. I've always wondered what a Gen I might look like without the plastic around the wheel wells. I'm fairly certain it would look like crap but it still might be interesting.

[sKiZo]

 Maybe for another thread, but I wouldn't mind lowering mine an inch or two. Simple rubber transplant on the stock rims would be nice. Not worried too much about off roading, and I suppose I could also add a skid plate if that were an issue.

[jrm223]

On 12/21/2019 at 5:39 PM, JustinVP said:

I'll probably go with Geolandar G015 tires when my OEM Conti's are toast in a few months. Just one notch bigger than OEM, gives me .4" extra clearance.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+A%2FT+G015&partnum=16HR6G015&i1_Qty=4

 

 

Just FYI, which I'm surprised no one has gotten onto you about (I've seen it here before many times, lol), the load rating on those tires are lower than stock, so keep the reduced load capacity in mind. Personally, I went with General Grabber AT2's in 215/65R16, higher load rating than stock but at a lower air pressure - I run 43PSI all-around. The van will still spin them on pavement too easily in first gear coming off a stop, although not quite as bad as the OEM Conti's did.

 

Talk to any off-roader and they'll tell you to follow the right line and all is good. I've taken my van on washed-out "roads" that most people would look at & turn around immediately, even if they were in a 4x4 truck - most people, aka "normal" ones, lol. One of my buddies has a driveway that could nearly half-swallow a Smart car in some areas - one in particular could hold a few bodies as a "shallow grave", to give an idea of overall size - and I can take a couple of different paths through or around the craters so I don't scrape anything underneath, no lift.

[JustinVP]

3 hours ago, jrm223 said:

 

Just FYI, which I'm surprised no one has gotten onto you about (I've seen it here before many times, lol), the load rating on those tires are lower than stock, so keep the reduced load capacity in mind.

 

Yeah I noted that and for my use a little lower load rating is fine. They can go up to relatively high PSI, which helps.  I don’t want to give up highway mileage, wet pavement traction, or road noise, so these G015 tires look like the best solution. Not a lot of options for better traction, really, just these two tires.

Edited December 23, 2019 by JustinVP

[Beta Don]

I would most certainly look for a tire the size you need with the proper load rating  -  Using anything less opens up a huge can of worms.  If you had a tire related accident,  your insurance could be voided & you could be on the hook for damages or injuries to others.  Not worth it just to try to get an extra inch of ground clearance

 

Don

[mrtn]

4 hours ago, Beta Don said:

I would most certainly look for a tire the size you need with the proper load rating  -  Using anything less opens up a huge can of worms.  If you had a tire related accident,  your insurance could be voided & you could be on the hook for damages or injuries to others.  Not worth it just to try to get an extra inch of ground clearance

 

Exactly, I was just going to post that. You could be neck deep in Scheiße.

[G B L]

There are plenty of tires available with the needed load range.

[JustinVP]

4 hours ago, Beta Don said:

I would most certainly look for a tire the size you need with the proper load rating  -  Using anything less opens up a huge can of worms.  If you had a tire related accident,  your insurance could be voided & you could be on the hook for damages or injuries to others.  Not worth it just to try to get an extra inch of ground clearance

 

Don

 

Well that's a bummer, literally no other traction tires available w/out going up an additional size. I'm skeptical that it's actually a liability problem, but now you have me worrying.  D*** internet, it suckered you, now it's suckering me!

[OLDSCHOOLFOOL]

23 hours ago, jrm223 said:

Talk to any off-roader and they'll tell you to follow the right line and all is good. I've taken my van on washed-out "roads" that most people would look at & turn around immediately, even if they were in a 4x4 truck - most people, aka "normal" ones, lol. One of my buddies has a driveway that could nearly half-swallow a Smart car in some areas - one in particular could hold a few bodies as a "shallow grave", to give an idea of overall size - and I can take a couple of different paths through or around the craters so I don't scrape anything underneath, no lift.

Being VERY familiar with the kind of driveways you describe I'm amazed you don't have a rubbing issue on the front with those tires! Confidence matters and knowing what that line is, is key.?

[Beta Don]

Ford had huge tire load rating problems with the early Explorers which didn't end well for anybody, but it sure alerted manufacturers, insurers, accident investigators and the legal community as to how important tire load ratings actually are   -   Each vehicle manufactured has a tire load rating requirement and it should always be a prime factor when selecting new rubber

 

If you went to any respectable tire retailer, they would flat out refuse to sell or mount tires which do not meet the load rating requirement for your vehicle and the reason they're all so nit picky about it is . . . . legal liability.  After the accident, the sleuths would come looking to see who mounted the sub-standard tires and they would be included in the lawsuit and it could cost them their business and much more

 

It's just not worth it . . . . especially if the only plus side to the argument is a little more ground clearance.  There are safer ways to get that result

 

Don

[Gideon]

Yes, load rating IS important. BUT you can always reduce the weight of all the 'junk' that ends up accumulating in our cars.  Even standard (factory installed) tires can be destroyed by overloading the car.  My 7-seat TC has never yet had a load equal to 7 people in it.

[sKiZo]

... and running a commercial TC (or any vehicle) with no load probably causes as many handling issues as running under spec load ratings on the rubber. Surprised nobody's been sued yet for not having enough garbage in their vehicles when they crash. 

 

I remember my sainted granddaddy telling me his thoughts on lawyers ... line em up, shoot every tenth one. That don't straighten them out  ... line em up again!  ;-}