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The nice thing about a standard 14-14 Rv install is if the unit ever croaks then the replacement is much easier. The TC is Small so the standard inside vent setup would work well. The Hitch out the back gives you the option of a swing away basket on the back for the generator. Your plan is coming together

You could be correct Don . I will find out and let you know.

The only issue with leaving Accessories on is with all the computers in the Cars now you could end up with a no start . It would be a good Idea to add a Good Booster pack to the accessory's . This would prevent a morning swearing session after a good night's sleep.

How do you plan to Power the AC . The Mach 8 Colman is a good unit but needs sizeable power? If you do a good install the AC unit could be easily removable. The Roof opening is a standard 14-14 RV roof vent size and a Cover could be made fill the hole when you do not need the AC.

Sounds Cool .

Good info Don. I think that if the tire had been designed to Run at 26PSi it would have been ok, but the tire was not a full redesign but a relabeled 35PSi tire.

The switched 12v sockets seem to be an Asian car thing, I have had several Subaru's and the sockets are controlled with the ignition . The ford.com sight has the PDF but you have to look for it.

Great looking wheel mrtn The 16' are big enough for me also. In fact the next set of tires for mine are going to be 215 /60/16 Extra load's . This will add .5 " or 13mm to the sidewall height, I will see if this improves the ride.

Sorry for the mistake. User 1 Go to ford .com- owner's and put in the year and model of the Transit Connect and you can download the owners Manual. That will have the Maintenance .

If you are doing City driving only then you are right on the money. 4000 lb car and stop and go.

This is not the Transit forum. If you go to Ford.com you can down load the owner's manual for the Transit and that will have the Maintenance schedule. Good luck

Here is the procedure from the owners manual . If you have access to a TPMS tool The job is easier. Hope this helps. Carrying Out the System Reset Procedure Read the entire procedure before carrying out a system reset. 1. Drive your vehicle above 20 mph (32 km/h) for at least two minutes and then park in a safe location where you can easily get to all four tires and have access to a tire inflation pump. 2. Switch the ignition off. 3. Switch the ignition on with the engine off. 4. Turn the hazard flashers on then off three times, this must be completed within 10 seconds. If the reset mode has been entered successfully, the horn will chirp once and the system indicator will flash. If this does not occur, repeat the procedure from step 2. If after repeated attempts to enter the reset mode, the horn does not chirp and the system indicator does not flash, have your vehicle checked by an authorized dealer as soon as possible. 5. Train the system sensors in the tires using the following reset sequence starting with the left front tire and following a clockwise order: Left front, right front, right rear, left rear. 6. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem on the left front tire. Decrease the air pressure until the horn chirps. Note: The single horn chirp confirms that the sensor identification code has been learned by your vehicle for this position. If a double horn chirp is heard, the reset procedure was unsuccessful and must be repeated. 7. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem on the right front tire. Decrease the air pressure until the horn chirps. 8. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem on the right rear tire. Decrease the air pressure until the horn chirps. 9. Remove the valve cap from the valve stem on the left rear tire. Decrease the air pressure until the horn chirps. Training is complete when the horn chirps after the last system sensor (left rear) has been trained and the system indicator stops flashing. 10. Switch the ignition off. If two short horn chirps are heard, the reset procedure was unsuccessful and must be repeated. Note: If after repeating the procedure two short horn chirps are heard again, have your vehicle checked by an authorized dealer as soon as possible. 11. Set all four tires to the correct pressure See Maintenance (page 177). or the tire inflation pressure label (located on the edge of driver door or

Nice Job! If the rivet nuts you used are aluminum put some grease on the screws , that will make sure they will come out in the future. With the air pattern the TC generates that area gets a lot of road dirt.

The more polite the drivers the better the Roundabout ( Rotary's in Massachusetts) will work at all traffic levels. The Car in the roundabout has the right away here also.

Even with out Skin in the game the insight you bring would still be valuable. Thanks for your time.

Too bad you will have to modify your Pheasant hunting technique!!

The 2.5 is good at 2500, but it likes to rev so you really feel it come alive at 3000. When you need it is feels good to about 5200 on the tach.

I have changed the Battery on my gen 2 the video is correct except for steps 5-7 which are not from a TC. All and all a good Video

I drove the Gen 1 Auto with the 2.0 a year before buying the Gen 2 that I now have. The 4 speed auto was adequate . I think the 2.5 engine size up grade made the Gen 2 performance difference.

Excellent thanks for the picture .

When did Co institute an inspection? it must have been recent. The 2.5 is completely adequate but not earth shaking. You should get the Ford people to give you a TC loaner and you could take it up to Monarch pass on US 50 and that would give you a good Idea of the performance. If the Chrysler does not present a service issue then the Ford should not be one either . In regards to working on it if Your dealer has a competent staff the drive train is almost Identical to the Escape and should not be a problem. I am not a Dealer person. The service I have done on mine has been fairly routine It has not made me think that the TC is any harder to service than any other Van type vehicle. The 6 speed transmission is set up too keep the engine in the right power zone and shifts often . If the engine is under 3.5 liters and not turbo charged that is what you get oh well!!

I have heard that on the Gen 1's if the boot that seals the coil packs goes bad water collects in the Spark plug recesses and can cause a miss. How long since you have changed the Plugs? It could be worth a look.

A good scan will tell if you have had a miss fire or not

That's great don't change anything !!

Do you have a picture of the fastener top as I do not have a Gen 1 Tc.