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Looks like Progress!

Very Cool!!

mrtn That is a great price but getting the Tc to your shop is hard for us. Did you see the old bearing ? most of the one's I see there is definitely water intrusion and rust and little evidence of heat. If a larger tire 205/70/16 would give almost .5 inch more side wall and could improve the ride with out changing the off set, and should clear all the wheel openings. You would need to make sure the tire has the load rating

The tire theory is interesting . The only way it would help is if you could run a lower pressure , without sacrificing handling or load rating. The possible down side is you are increasing the UN-sprung weight which could cancel the lower impact benefit. If you can find a good used set of hubs from the right salvage vehicle getting the press work done at a shop could be quite reasonable. This would take the inconvenience out of the repair. I have changed a lot of wheel bearings over the years and the leading cause that I have seen is water getting in. The sealed cartridge bearings can not be re lubricated so if any water or contamination gets in the replacement clock starts to run.

The spec here is 205/65/15 XL and the load rating is 1709 lbs per tire. If the tire you have meets this Spec you are Ok.

Great job. Another project to consider.

Very Nice

I have had several sets of Nokian WRG 2's and WRG 3's which carry a severe snow rating and work very well. They are a 50000 mile tire. If you only want to have one set of tires these will work very nicely.

Very good The humid conditions over time definitely unleash gremlins.

Is the Key linkage subject to corrosion or is there any access to the latch for spray lubrication ?

The key must act on the hood Latch . Mrtn has much more experience with the gen 1 . Hopefully he will chime in soon.

Very nice take lots of pictures!

If you put a really good set of Flaps behind the Front wheels and stay in Maryland in the winter you should get great service out of yours. As for the Scout this is the second time that I am going around mine. Between my brother in law and Me it has been in the family for 30 years. Too much history to let go !

When you clean up the Grounds. Check and see if the scan tool Read Gets info from the Pcm. You will get to the bottom of this I am sure . It might take 40,000 Euros but you will not need them soon anyway!

There are grounds in a lot of places on these newer cars. Here's another Video for you to watch there is a Video on the problem http://www.askthemechanic.co.uk.

Check the Grounds and here is a link to some very good info on the Immobilizer system . http://www.diagwiki.com/ford-pats-immobilizer Looking for clues myself

It should be plug and play, But If the dash lights up and functions that is probably not the problem. If the switch was failing to engage the starter it would have started when you jumped the starter solenoid

That sound very exciting looking forward to the pictures.

You have put the two battery cables in contact with each other? How may coded keys do you have? Were both keys used in the lock you hit? The Rust could be an issue and if there is rust there the fuses might need to be pulled and cleaned

You could be right Here is something to try . Disconnect both battery cables and put the two cables together to completely drain all the residual energy from the system. This is know as a hard reset and might work it can't hurt Remember both cables must be off the Battery.

The answer is both, some do have their own power some do not. Is there any mold or dampness in the fuse box areas? Did you download the manual yet? The section on the Immobilizer is worth looking at.

Check and see if the scan tool lights up with power at the Obd connector . Check out the Immobilizer section of the manual. Any water leak's in the TC/

Go to ford UK and down load an owner's manual with your Vin Number. I down loaded the 2002 version from Ford UK.

That would be good.

Do you have the owners manual or can you download a copy?