Electrical Question

[windguy]

I need advice on how best to tap power off the rear cargo 12VDC accessory outlet wiring (brown wire in pic).

I want to add an outlet on the driver's side and run a few low power LED lights, all for occasional use.

Thanks!

 

 

Edited April 30, 2018 by windguy

[DonShockley]

Although I ended up going a different route when I added extra accessories to my 2015 Wagon, I had considered tapping into the same wiring. One of the neater products I came across in my research was a product called Posi Tap which would seem to make for a much nicer and more reliable connection than most of the typical tap connectors. I never ended up using them so I can't speak from personal experience, but if I have the need in the future, it's what I'll be trying unless I come across something better.

https://www.amazon.com/Lockitt-POSI-TAP-Assortment-connectors-10-22/dp/B00CMC5DII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525137506&sr=8-1&keywords=posi+tap&dpID=51T5CZNu9-L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

And if you need a higher power circuit to tap, that white/red wire in the photo at the bottom of the trailer tow module should be the 12v supply from a 40A fuse. At least that's what my 2015 wiring diagram book shows.

[windguy]

Thanks Don. The Posi-tap looks like an easy product to use that would work well for this type of application.

Thanks for pointing out the other wire to tap. I think in this case I'll be okay with the brown wire.

 

Question - when taping into this circuit and make connections, can I just remove the fuse for this circuit rather than the battery cable?

Seems like it would be easier to pull the fuse than mess with the battery. Thanks!

 

 

[Don Ridley]

Posi-tap connectors work great. You need the proper connector for the wire size. The brown wire looks like 16ga. Use the 12-18ga one:

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

 

Pulling the fuse is the proper way to work on this circuit.

 

What outlet are you adding? Google 12v usb outlet and there are many options. Don't get me started about the ridiculous format of 12v outlets... it's a cigarette lighter......!

Edited May 1, 2018 by Don Ridley

[windguy]

6 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

Posi-tap connectors work great. You need the proper connector for the wire size. The brown wire looks like 16ga. Use the 12-18ga one:

http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html

 

Pulling the fuse is the proper way to work on this circuit.

 

What outlet are you adding? Google 12v usb outlet and there are many options. Don't get me started about the ridiculous format of 12v outlets... it's a cigarette lighter......!

 

Thanks for the help Don. Will pull the fuse to do the electrical work.

 

I noticed that Home Depot stocks a tap-splice solution that looks like it will do the same job and costs a little less. Using these is probably better than my original thought of cutting the wire and using a standard twist wire connector to join all three wires together. I have plenty of those available but it's kind of crude and not as clean looking, if that matters.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-Tap-Splice-Assortment-5-Case-15-2210/202522123

 

I bought the 12VDC outlet linked below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018WZI0P6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I must have spent hours looking at all the combo outlet and switch options but couldn't find exactly what I wanted. My preference is to have the outlet mounted like the other side, on top of the side panel but a little further back perhaps. The switches I'm adding will be near the rear door, driver's side, above the opening in the panel for the jack. I bought the 3 switch panel shown below.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Multi-Purpose-Single-Rocker-Triple-Switch-Black-p/19-0160.htm

 

Spent hours looking at all those options too. Crazy. One switch is for the outlet, the other for the rear lights and the third for the lights in the middle area. I also got a single switch that will be mounted just inside the driver's side slider on the edge of the panel to control the middle area lights. Both switches will control the same middle set of lights but not in a 3-way configuration, which isn't really necessary for this install. I'll make a separate post showing all this at some point with other mods I'm making. Just trying to work out some details so I can round up all the necessary parts.

Edited May 1, 2018 by windguy

[DonShockley]

12 hours ago, windguy said:

... using a standard twist wire connector to join all three wires together.

If you mean this type used in residential wiring, they aren't suitable for use in automotive applications. The continuous vibration present in an automotive application can cause them to loosen. For automotive use you need connectors designed for that application, usually a crimp type connector. Soldering is the best method to rejoin wires.

[windguy]

5 hours ago, DonShockley said:

If you mean this type used in residential wiring, they aren't suitable for use in automotive applications. The continuous vibration present in an automotive application can cause them to loosen. For automotive use you need connectors designed for that application, usually a crimp type connector. Soldering is the best method to rejoin wires.

 

Yes, that was my initial thought, but I will follow your advise and use a tap-splice fitting. Never considered the vibration part - good point.

For my other connections, I bought a crimper/stripper tool and a set of crimp terminals and some heat shrinking. Tried out a few and they seem to work nicely. Thanks for the consult.

[G B L]

On 5/1/2018 at 4:03 PM, windguy said:

I noticed that Home Depot stocks a tap-splice solution that looks like it will do the same job and costs a little less. Using these is probably better than my original thought of cutting the wire and using a standard twist wire connector to join all three wires together. I have plenty of those available but it's kind of crude and not as clean looking, if that matters.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-22-10-AWG-Tap-Splice-Assortment-5-Case-15-2210/202522123

 

Do yourself a favor and never use this type of splice on any type of wiring unless it is for some one you do not like. These are quick and cheap and very unreliable.

The twist on wire nut definitely have issues with vibration. The posi Tap connectors are good .  As Don has stated The  best is crimping or soldering with heat shrink

---

 

 

Edited May 3, 2018 by G B L

[mrtn]

Word. Cut-solder-heatshrink is King.

[windguy]

2 hours ago, G B L said:

Do yourself a favor and never use this type of splice on any type of wiring unless it is for some one you do not like. These are quick and cheap and very unreliable.

The twist on wire nut definitely have issues with vibration. The posi Tap connectors are good .  As Don has stated The  best is crimping or soldering with heat shrink

---

 

 

 

Okay, thanks GBL.

[windguy]

5 minutes ago, mrtn said:

Word. Cut-solder-heatshrink is King.

 

Thanks mrtn. I best fire up the solder iron to make sure it's still working.

 

[BSUPC]

5 hours ago, G B L said:

Do yourself a favor and never use this type of splice on any type of wiring unless it is for some one you do not like.

---

 

 

 

 

Now that is some sound advice.  

[Don Ridley]

Windguy,

This is the best solution:

 

Create an additional circuit using OEM components and methods. The AJB is easy to access. Install a fuse for your application and wire size. Doesn't get any better than this. The fuse block connectors are available on Amazon.

[windguy]

4 hours ago, Don Ridley said:

Windguy,

This is the best solution:

 

Create an additional circuit using OEM components and methods. The AJB is easy to access. Install a fuse for your application and wire size. Doesn't get any better than this. The fuse block connectors are available on Amazon.

 

Thanks Don.

I don't see an AJB in my cargo van. Pic below.

After GBL's comment, I did some checking and it appears there is a consensus that tap-splice connectors have some level of being unreliable.

I will make a solder connection instead and keep it simple. Thanks for the help!

 

 

 

 

 

[eggman14]

On 5/3/2018 at 7:18 AM, mrtn said:

Word. Cut-solder-heatshrink is King.

 

Isolate power,

 

use wire stippers to expose copper

 

wrap new feed to existing wire and solder.

 

cover exposed copper with electrical tape in abundence.

 

Reinstate power and test

 

[Dan Michal]

I have a 2015 Transit Connect cargo van that I converted to a nice microcamper and I've installed a Curt trailer hitch.  I'm trying to tap 12v power at the rear for the trailer lights adapter module.  There is no AJB at the right rear like in passenger versions.  Does anyone have a wiring diagram or could they please point me to the potential right color wires or locations for constant 12v?  I have a fuse holder for the wiring from that point on.  Thank you so very much.

[windguy]

5 hours ago, Dan Michal said:

I have a 2015 Transit Connect cargo van that I converted to a nice microcamper and I've installed a Curt trailer hitch.  I'm trying to tap 12v power at the rear for the trailer lights adapter module.  There is no AJB at the right rear like in passenger versions.  Does anyone have a wiring diagram or could they please point me to the potential right color wires or locations for constant 12v?  I have a fuse holder for the wiring from that point on.  Thank you so very much.

 

Your question is answered in the first post of this thread along with a picture, yes?

[Fifty150]

 

 

 

 

 

 

13 hours ago, Dan Michal said:

I'm trying to tap 12v power at the rear for the trailer lights adapter module.

 

 

 

You can run the power line to the battery under the hood.

 

 

 

[JackGrimshaw]

8 hours ago, Fifty150 said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can run the power line to the battery under the hood.

 

 

 

Exactly what my dealer used when my hitch was installed but they had the sense to run the wire through the fire wall,under the door kick plates and then following the tail light wires.Inline fuse to battery clamp.

6 years trailer use in harsh conditions and no issues other than normal wear and tear.

Take the time to run the wire inside the van and include a foot of extra wire in the rear for if you ever need to repace the receptacle.  

[Dan Michal]

On 1/10/2023 at 2:57 PM, windguy said:

 

Your question is answered in the first post of this thread along with a picture, yes?

Yes, thanks.  But my TC did not have the AJB in the rear so the brown wire and it's connector was buried in the electrical tape and I could not see it or find it at first.  I cut open some tape and eventually found it; I used a blade male connector into the female plastic factory connector (where there is constant 12v power).  I connected my fuse at the right rear in an accessible area right near this and I'm good to go.  I think this is far superior to running wire all the way under the chassis or under the floor covers to the battery at the front.

[windguy]

13 hours ago, Dan Michal said:

Yes, thanks.  But my TC did not have the AJB in the rear so the brown wire and it's connector was buried in the electrical tape and I could not see it or find it at first.  I cut open some tape and eventually found it; I used a blade male connector into the female plastic factory connector (where there is constant 12v power).  I connected my fuse at the right rear in an accessible area right near this and I'm good to go.  I think this is far superior to running wire all the way under the chassis or under the floor covers to the battery at the front.

 

Good job!

 

My cargo van doesn't have an AJB either, as you can see in the picture. But all vans have an aux outlet in the back right corner area making it easy to tap 12VDC (20amp circuit). I agree it's an easy and fast solution.

 

I used my tap to provide power for LED lighting in the cargo area and also added an aux outlet on the left side. That outlet is switched. I did blow a fuse once due to a flimsy 12v plug that melted. I would recommend picking up a spare fuse or two just in case. F15 Fuse - 20amp P/N: F8SZ-14526-AA, about $4. Fuse is located in the engine compartment fuse box.

[dbcooper]

You will never see a solder joint in aviation because they fail due to vibration. Crimp connectors only.