Don Ridley

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Forscan is free software that can scan for codes and read vehicle parameters. It also can make changes to the configuration of vehicle options. This function in Forscan takes some time and reading to understand and use properly. It's not factory approved and you do everything at your own risk. But it works. See the posts in this forum that discuss Forscan (one member added cruise control). Go to forscan.org. You will need a OBDLink brand converter to connect your PC to the vehicle (do not go cheap with other brands...you are messing with the core of your vehicle). If all this is too much, any dealer should be able to activate DRL...maybe for $200 or so. The Forscan route will cost about $70 and you will have a scan tool when you are done.

You may be able to turn the DRLs on using Forscan. My 2016 does not have the option to turn them off via the cluster menu. This is a pain because they are on whenever the ignition is on. Maybe the 2017s are better designed but your spec would let you turn them off either. I go back and forth about disabling them with Forscan but I like the safety aspect.

Forscan can reset the tables. I don't know if there are any problems doing this. I use the transmission sport mode for better shifting.

No, mine is a 2016. I missed the fact you have the newer model. You definitely have a bigger challenge with that design.

There are lots of circuits in the fuses under the glove box. Find one that is keyed and use it to operate a relay. Connect to a fused connection on the fuse block on the front of the battery. There are many ways to do this....

You can reset the BMS with a good scan tool. I use the Forscan app with a good elml327 adapter for the OBII port. If you have the 2.5l engine, you don't have BMS. If you are computer savvy, use Forscan on a PC to change the battery type. But I admit I can't be sure it makes much of a difference.

Here is some interesting info on battery charging schemes; https://stevesorensenmechanical.com.au/blog/battery-registration-and-programing/

If you upgrade from an FLA battery to an AGM it is a good idea to configure the ECU (BCM module in the TC) for the new battery type. The two battery types have slightly different charging requirements and I think Ford programmed different schemes for each type. Will the AGM work without this change? Yes. But the lifetime make be compromised and that would be a waste for such an expensive battery.

This type of upgrade is possible but complicated. You may need to add SYNC which involves modules and programming. Sat radio needs a separate antenna. Your project would be hampered by a lack of info or support on the internet because this upgrade is very uncommon. The cheapest solution is an aftermarket head unit.

If you have a Gen 2 TC, there is a rubber grommet under the carpet pad on the firewall on the drivers side. This post should help:

Nice. I have a PDF copy but it does not show the individual connectors. I still like paper so I can make notes and flag pages.

I think the PCM is near the left headlight. You can access it from under the car. A new unit would need to be programmed by a dealer or an indy shop with expensive Ford IDS software. A used unit from an identical vehicle may work. You may need to load your configuration file with Forscan. But changing these modules may cause problems with key PATS or other security measures. Do it as a last resort. The Forscan forums are full of unresolved problems with PCM replacement.

Forscan allows you to run a real time graph of multiple sensors and on/off equipment conditions. But the dealership should be doing this type of troubleshooting.

https://forscan.org/ You need an elm 327 device and Windows PC. You can use a smartphone and the Forscan app if you only need to read data.

Here are a couple of pages from the service manual that show the fuel injectors. You may want to try using Forscan so you can look at PIDs to help troubleshoot. I have no idea how to find the misfire but there are a lot of diagnostic PIDs that my help. fuel injectors.pdf

This is from the service manual: Rear Window Defrost When the rear window defrost switch is activated, the BCM activates the rear window defrost relay (located in the BJB). When the rear window defrost is activated from the switch, the rear window defrost grid is energized and the BCM supplies voltage to illuminate the rear window defrost switch status LED. The rear window defrost system may also be automatically activated as an extra load for accelerated engine warm-up, however the defrost switch status LED remains off unless the defrost switch is activated. The BCM deactivates the rear window defrost relay when one of these conditions is met: The rear window defrost switch is pressed when the feature is active. Ignition state is changed from ON to OFF. A predetermined timer completes. Battery voltage has dropped below a specified threshold (load management strategy I would have to look at the wiring diagram to see if there is an obvious way for the switch light to go off but the heater stays on. The heater control is probably programming in the BCM that sends a signal. BUT there is a mechanical relay in the battery junction box (BJB)...so maybe that's the problem? But measure the heater voltage first and we can go from there.

Maybe the defroster circuit is bad. I would I check if the defroster is powered continuously. Maybe it's supposed to turn off after a prescribed amount of time and it's stuck in the "on" state. Another possibility is the heater resistance may change with high temp and the circuit is not recognizing this change and responding accordingly. Unplug the heater element and measure the voltage over time. I'm pretty sure it's supposed to turn off automatically.

I have the same issue. Waiting until the engine is cold works well and as the oil gets older it's easier to see. But it is tough to read after an oil change. Definitely a change from previous vehicles where the oil was thick and dark all the time.

Did you change any other settings in Forscan? Maybe a setting related to the audio system? The radio head unit (ACM) can be configured to ignore the steering wheel buttons or expect a different signal type (LIN vs CAN)

The holes are probably for different types of seats or for changing configuration from right to left hand drive? I don't know. The extra hole I saw was behind the back, left mount on the driver's seat.

The Gen 2 TCs (2014+) are significantly different than Gen 1. Eco-boost only available on short wheel base models 2014-2016 and is hard to find (however I love mine). The 2.5l engine in the Gen 2 improved driveability over the smaller motor in the Gen 1. The cargo vans are less expensive but the wagons have panels and insulation to make them more "civilized". Cost of ownership and reliability seem normal. Some guys put 100k+ miles in a couple of years without problems. Buying used makes a lot of sense for your application.

There are extra seat mounting holes around the front seat. Pull back the carpet and insulation. The threads are M10 x 1.5.

Global down: double press the unlock button on the fob and hold it down on the second press. Global up: requires programming change to the body control module. Double press and hold the lock button.