Don Ridley

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Disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes is the standard method to reset all modules. I don't know of any better way to reset the electronics. Have you tried to drive the vehicle? Maybe the error will clear as all the sensors populate the modules with data.

You are correct about the 2.5L TCs, they do not have a smart charging system. I have the 1.6L EcoBoost (2016) and it has a smart charging system. Here are the alternator specs: gen specs.pdf

Look for the Forum post about adding cruise control. It will explain what to expect when upgrading the steering wheel. Make sure you buy a steering wheel from a Transit Connect, not a Transit. The steering wheel buttons and signals going to the radio head unit can probably be used by an aftermarket head unit. You will need the wiring diagram to find the proper wires. Adding SYNC 2 is very complicated and expensive. I don't think you can add the IPC and steering wheel without making some changes with Forscan, but maybe you can (especially if you don't want to activate cruise control). Do some research and take your time. Not of lot of people have done these upgrades.

I don't know if a high output alternator will work without changing the configuration in the ECU. The alternator output is controlled by the ECU (pulse width modulated signal) and there may be an issue if the control signal sent by the ECU does not produce the expected result. You should ask the alternator vendor about this. There may be an option in Forscan for different alternator types but I never looked for it so I'm only guessing.

Forscan is free but requires a laptop and an adapter. Self contained scanners are faster and easier to use but the good ones (used by shops) need a subscription. I think the device you are looking at will be fine for all the normal problems.... assuming it works. It must have the ability to read DTCs to be useful.

Search this forum for the rails. I think there was a company that upfitted TCs and removed the roof rails frequently and they advertised those rails in this forum. Maybe someone else here has better recollection...

Here's the wiring diagram for most of the loads connected to F33. Note the heater circuit on the O2 sensor. f33.pdf

I doubt the lightning strike affected the fuse. F33 powers a lot of critical components. Maybe the O2 sensors are going bad? Solenoid valves don't usually cause a short circuit. See if there is a way to bench test the O2 sensors. I know they have a heater circuit.

"P" codes are from powertain components. "U" codes are network errors and are the ones most likely affected by electrical gremlins (but NOT always). You should look up each code and see if there is a common element.

Click the computer chip icon. Save every module configuration before making any changes

It will be complicated and costly to implement factory fog lights: Wire harness, headlight switch w/fogs and ECU programming. Not worth the effort.

I think the fog lights are driven by a pulse width modulated (pwm) signal. It is not 12V DC. LED headlight mfrs make circuits to convert PWM to DC.

The catalytic converter on the 1.6L is difficult to access. The vehicles are so uncommon I doubt thieves know how to steal them (if it's possible). They probably don't even know the TC can have different engines. Next time I'm under the van I'll take a good look.

These types of problems require a scan tool to read the error codes. It's impossible to troubleshoot without this information. The scanners can be expensive. Forscan is free but requires a $40-75 adapter. This has been discussed on the forum so search Forscan for info.

"Moment holidaymaker is forced to watch helplessly as his car sinks into sand | Daily Mail Online" https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-9901067/Moment-holidaymaker-forced-watch-helplessly-car-sinks-sand.html

40mA is what my 2016 measured also.

You have replaced all of the suspect mechanical components. You may have a problem components related to ABS, traction control or hill assist. You need to a scan tool (Forscan or other professional scan tool) to check for codes to see if the ABS or other systems are being activated. A message should appear in the center message center if these functions are activated. But there are valves in the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) that control the flow of brake fluid to each wheel and maybe one of them are faulty or getting a bad signal from the ABS control unit.

https://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/7246-2015-tc-transmission-fluid-change/?tab=comments#comment-26131

Using the recirculation setting on the AC produces colder air because the inside air is cooler than the outside air. The air filter does restrict the flow of outside air but that's not why it is less effective at cooling the cabin. The TC air conditioner is undersized in my opinion.

My experience with the foam tapes made for architectural applications is it does not withstand the high heat found in vehicles. The adhesive will turn gooey. I also found this problem exists for normal electrical tape. If you plan on keeping your TC for a long time it will pay to use the automotive specific products or just avoid adhesive tapes and use cable ties.

I have looked but never found the wire insulating foam. It is a specialty item that is probably not sold in retail quantities. I wrap all my wiring in Tesa tape. This tape is used by many Euro car manufacturers. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_7KQF794FFZZRYBJC7R13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I have also used Home Depot pipe insulation to wrap wires. Buy the black squishy foam type, not the grey plastic foam type.

DRLs on my 2016 can't be turned off. Every switch position leaves them on. But can disable the DRL with Forscan. A dealership should be able to disable them if you don't live in Canada where they are required by law.

I tested some adhesive magnetic strips and I concluded they probably would not work. The adhesive would fail especially in the California heat and the magnets were surprisingly weak unless you had a larger surface area. The magnetic force of my setup is very strong and I learned I needed to stack two magnets to get it to work consistently.

The spring mechanism on the sun visors is terrible and after a few uses the visor will not snap into the "up" position. This leaves the visor flopping about 1inch in the up position. This fix is tedious but it works. You fabricate a plastic holder for some magnets in the overhead shelf and install a metal screw in the visor. The neodymium magnets are strong enough to hold the visor if you stack two magnets (this increases the magnetic field) and use a screw with a large and flat head. Here are the basic steps. I used the handle from a Home Depot brush because the size was perfect and the plastic was relatively soft. I used a Dremel to shape the plastic into an insert for a slat in the overhead shelf. I did a lot of grinding and test fitting to get it right. The plastic piece inserts into the slot from the bottom and an aluminum (or other material) bracket screws into the top to hold it. I used neodymium magnets and stacked two into the plastic insert. The depth of the magnets is important. Finally, a small screw is installed in the visor. Adjust the magnet and screw depth so the visor fully retracts into the up position and makes magnetic contact. If the gap is too big the screw and magnets will rattle. The screw head is about the same diameter as the magnet. I bought the magnets at Home Depot also.