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You may want to check this roof adapter out. I have not purchased from this seller but he seems to have a good rep. Also sells 3M Thinsulate https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Transit-Connect-Roof-Vent-Adapter-for-2014-or-Later/142515465891?hash=item212e956ea3:m:mBzibOMwMKr0bwakbnkxZJw&var=441506560218&redirect=mobile

You can do it. Then fan and lights are on the same circuit. Circuit will be overloaded; fuse can blow or fire can happen. You are already cutting holes into your van. May as well run the wiring.

The S mode changes the shift points even when you don't use the manual buttons. In my 1.6l TC it removes the shift delay when I accelerate hard. I use it all the time and never use the shift buttons.

I had a four banger with a stick , still like it a lot more than automatic.

Says you. I wish I can find a girl who is even cheaper than I am. Do you know how much I could have saved over the years? All my ex's spent money like crazy. They just didn't care. Don't women know what coupons are anymore?

If you have a heavy trailer you might use the S mode to keep the TC from going into 6 gear.

If you go to the wix website you can find all the relevant filter cross reference information , size, thread size , gasket dimensions . anti drain-back info, and bypass valve pressure . This is the way I get under my TC

Here is the page from the owners manual with the indicated jack points. This is what the bottom looks like with the splash shield removed. Oil filter is really easy to access; behind the fan and in front of the oil pan.

I use a small floor jack to lift. Then once the van is on 4 UniJacks, I lift it up to where I am comfortable crawling under. You can use ramps, jack stands, or whatever you want. Personal preference is not to use the OEM emergency scissor jack, ever, on any vehicle. There is even an inflatable balloon jack that is perfect for lifting a low profile car to a comfortable height for service. Just don't buy a used jack at 007's garage sale. He only sold it because it doesn't work. And when he gets a lift, all the Left Coast members are going over to his place.

But with a K&N drop in air filter, it will be fine as long as it fits.

Please be aware that things that fit may not be correct to use - especially when it comes to oil filters. Some have baffles and restrictions inside to do things like restrict oil drain if they are mounted face-down or face-up, etc. Not saying these, as mentioned, are not cross-compatible, but having a history as a parts guy (back when you had to use books to look things up) and in a rural area where farmers had older equipment you could not find in a book - I had to do a lot of creative parts finding. Anyway, just saying - external dimensions are not all you need to consider when changing a part out to another part.

If the after market hitch structure were mechanically attached to the factory hitch it would definitely handle the load. The only question would the weight cause a drive-ability issue . You would want to add a anti rattle to control the hitch slop .

HeyZeus, There is a plastic boot on the intake in front of the radiator. It's shaped like a long cone with holes in it. It restricts airflow and makes it quiet. I loosened the front clip by removing snaps until I could reach down and pull it off. Now I have a factory CAI. I thought about cutting a hole inside the upper grill to add more airflow but I don't want to inhale water when it's raining. It sounds good and probably is faster but I can't tell. It has at least 1/3 larger opening than stock. Combine that with exhaust mods and you'll know the difference. Really the only other mods you can do are to the computer...