sKiZo

PLAN B: I used a net tail gate thingie to keep groceries in the back of the bed when shopping. I added lightweight metal rods top and bottom with zip ties, and the gate just strapped into a couple brackets on the side. Just pop the straps and roll it up when not in use. You could double the height just using two of the gates, and they're super strong, and not too expensive.

Double check availability. I've seen a lot of the big box stores listing in stock, then you click thru to check your local store for pickup, and you'll see some crapola about 0 of 1400 in stock or some such nonsense, followed by a "not available on web" message.

Here's what's left of mine ... I left the passenger side (minus the upper grate) mostly because it's a convenient place for the inverter and other electricals. Also, it clears the bed when the couch gets folded out and gives me a few more inches to stretch. And ya, I've heard the gloom 'n doom yer gonna die thing from stuff flying out the back already. I rate that pretty low on my list of things to worry about. Lot depends I suppose on what you do with the vehicle - mine's going for wheel chair access, overnight camping, local hardware runs ...

Don't forget, you'll still need to do butyl rubber tape or some such on all the seams to allow for expansion/contraction. Smaller sections with more seams should actually work better in most cases, and be a whole lot easier to manage in the long run.

Just fershitzengiggles ... would 1/4" luan do the job? Stuff's cheap and machines nice. That's my go to for most anything like that. Don't forget to seal both sides ...

With that wide a gap between the rails, I'd think about adding a couple pieces of angle iron front to back to keep lumber from sagging in the middle. That 7.5" will dissaspear fast if that happens. An old bed frame is handy for that sort of thing.

Was just reading Terry Pratchett's thoughts about pi the other day ... Mail-sorting engine, the Post Office, Ankh-Morpork. Originally designed as yet another organ (musical instrument). Acquired by Postmaster General Cowerby. In the centre of this machine is one wheel that Johnson, for the sake of tidiness, had designed to have a pi (circumference to diameter ratio) of exactly 3, not 3.14-mumble-mumble-and-a-bit. In order for pi to be exactly 3, the universe has been changed. The machine therefore taps through many layers of the space-time continuum. Mail came out of the sorting machine that wasn't put into it by the human hands of the postal workers. Mail from next week, mail from 50 years in the future, mail that could have been, mail from alternative universes, mail that people swore they posted but really hadn't, mountains of such mail. Finally, Chief Postal Inspector Rumbelow beat up the machine so that it stopped whirring. No longer sorting any mail, the machine still sports an annoying blue glow, and is capable of Considerably Dis-Organizing objects placed above its centre. This makes one of the rooms in the cellars, originally the mail-sorting room, a dangerous place to be. From Going Postal ...

Maybe enough room behind the Ford emblem on the hood to stash a key? Seems there would be, and just velcro it in place. Might have to cut out some internal reinforcement.

Yup, on the screens. I plan to use my TC as a weekend camper and the sliders all around plus a maxxifan up top provide a lot of ventilation. I'll also be adding a heavy curtain or accordian door behind the seats to keep the cab's heat from the rear. PS - the sliders here are a pleasant surprise. They were a bit tight at first, but a bit of silicone grease on the tracks took care of that nicely.

Somebody rang? Here's my aftermarket trailer windows mounted up. Universal fit and various sizes to choose from. These were recommended by the shop after seeing the van. Your results may vary - I'm thinking you could go a size bigger on the later series van. https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/pricing.html Nice little sliders complete with screens, and various adapter rings for proper fitment on various thickness door panels. I went with the WD03 and WD04 models. Good fit for the vehicle. Only concern really is getting the "weep holes" set right so any water drains properly. PS ... they're certainly smaller than the stock glass, but the visibility is actually quite good. Way better than solid steel anyway. ;-}

Is that the "four way stretch" carpet? Supposed to do a lot of weird shapes with that if you're careful. Plan here is to just do some carpet inserts in the big flat sections and paint the rest. Got a six pack of that new DupliColor lumpy paint that's supposed to give you kind of a naugahyde surface depending on how thick you put it on. You can also peel it off for a few months if you decide you don't like it.

I've found anti-glare screens to be next to useless. Only thing I've ever found that actually kinda sorta works for reducing glare is a visor that clips into the CD slot if there's one above the screen. Even that won't do much good when the sun's low on he horizon and shining right on it. https://www.amazon.com/NaviShade-Navigation-Screen-Protector-Slots/dp/B012PK0NRW

Somewhat similar thing on my 2011 with the door not latching open. I ended up beating the latch lever some with a few strategically placed blows with a four pound hammer and no problems since. Which is something your dealer should have probably at least tried ...

I pulled my jack and stuff out of the hole and put it behind the passenger seat, figuring I'd find some alternate use for that area. Odd shape, and it's still empty. ;-}

2017 Focus is a 55mm offset. 2010 TC is 53mm offset. Center bore is 63.4 for both. Eh ... close enuf, eh.

Any double DIN radio will work. Got a Boss Audio head for my 2011 and quite happy with it. Got the GPS and evarthang ... Fit right in with my being a cheap SOB, as it was a model year closeout at the local big box store. I also replaced the door speakers and added a couple bookshelf types to the overhead tray under the windshield. Also ran lines to the back for a couple speakers one of these days, and put a powered sub under the driver's seat.

Does seem like they'd be handy for mounting a desk though, assUming the latch would be strong enough to hold it in place, AND you're willing and able to fudge some brackets for it ... PS ... don't quote me, but seems like you can get access to most of those consoles if you removed the liner first. That SHOULD (theoretically) expose the hinges for the lid.

From their website. Looks like I have to tell it when I fill the tank though ... "Computer? Just filled the tank. Computer??" Or just push the red button I guess. <G> ~ ~ ~ The ScanGauge includes two trip computers based on the current tank of fuel. They include the Current Tank and Tank to Empty. Each trip computer starts automatically when you tell ScanGauge you have filled your tank. MPG for current tank Fuel Used on current tank Tank to Empty Distance Driven Distance Until Empty Hours driven on current tank Hours to Empty Average Speed Fuel Used Cost

Huh. Been reading up - does the "tank trip" reading reset automatically when you fill the tank? (never mind - a bit more reading, and it looks like you have to hit the little red button before filling up.)

I've seen those ScanGauge IIs and often wondered how it would work with the TC. I expect it just plugs into the OBDC test port?

Liking those body lift blocks. Have to keep those in mind. Only complaint I have about the seat on the 2011 is really not the seat's fault though. That fat steering wheel tends to block out half the speedo so I end up having to adjust the wheel height to be able to see around it. I get my choice of lowering the wheel for city driving OR raising it for highway ... mutter mumble. Have to try a seat pad and see if the blocks would help.

I have no idea what I get for MPG, and kinda prefer it that way. Good enough that the TC has a lot more pep and pickup than I would have expected, and seems to be capable of getting me down the road long enough for me to want to get out and stretch ... ;-}

I went with a strip of butyl rope caulk used for sealing windshields. Stuff is a 1/2" diameter but you can stretch it down to any size you need. Press the window in place, then tighten it as much as possible without distorting the panel. Once it's in, you can just run a dull knife around the edges (plastic is good so you don't damage the paint) and peel off anything that oozed out. A rag damped with mineral spirits does a nice job of cleaning the edges so it looks pretty much factory. PS ... I might have mentioned it earlier, but the windows I used were recommended by the seller after an eye's on inspection of my 2011. One advantage to living relatively close to the shop, eh. Be interesting to see their recommendations for the later model TCs ...

Got a pic of those focus wheels on your TC? Worth a thousand words and all that, eh.

Measure once, cut twice, I always say ... Or something like that anyway. <G> That's one big advantage with the earlier models - the door panels are pretty flat. My windows went in right easy. Some mention of losing visibility over the stock glass - can't say as I lose that much. View's actually a lot better than I expected. I also get a small dead spot where I built out the kitchen, but I cut out the rear wall of that and was careful to line the cutout up with the window behind it. (Old pic - I've since rounded out the vertical support at the front of the cabinet. That's also got steel in it and makes for a strong hand hold for boosting myself into the van or up from the chair.