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Not sure, and yes it was used as a commercial van before I got it. As mentioned, took me a while to figure out the trunk button on my remote opened the back doors. Until then, I used the key. Seems to me I actually fat fingered the button for my "discovery". So, what do other type one owners do with their trunk button, seeing as how there's, like ... no trunk? And yes - It did come with a cargo wall. Most of it's still there, even ... ;-} PS - the normal lock/unlock buttons only work with the front and side doors.

Nah ... you can disable the tape. Not so much the glue. ;-}

Think Gorilla Tape ... <G>

Which brings up one of my favorite pet peeves - the automatic locking of the rear doors when you take the key out of the ignition. I suppose getting rid of that is also a trip to the dealership, or a job for ForScan? Took me long enough to figure out that you had to use the trunk button on the remote to open those ... Apparently a dash switch would have been too much trouble ... (mutter mumble)

Ida know ... I kinda like the firm fit of the standard seat on my 2011 ... Soft isn't always the best way to go - found that out driving bikes. Used to get the big plush comfy seat and 100 miles down the road my butt would start to cramp up. Got me a Corbin saddle (which has about as much give as a concrete block) but it's all about the fit - I could drive all day on that with no problems. Play around with angles and adjust the position till it works for ya. PS - best truck seats are probably the same, but with the air suspension to soak up the hard knocks.

I still carry my Friend of the Federation card in my wallet proudly ... ;-} It even glows in the dark a bit since I spent time on a Klingon battle cruiser. Me too I'm told - they apparently don't pay much attention to radiation shielding on their ships ... ;-{

My favorite is when the GPS gets annoyed when I fail to follow the suggest path. Takes forever to re-calibrate to a new route, and in the meantime, it's giving me a "turn here!" for the next mile or so, which can get kinda old in the city ... ** Might be my radio too - not even sure what GPS software it uses, but I do know they misspelled GPS in the manual. Didn't inspire a lot of confidence, eh. <G>

I had a problem with the backup assist on mine too ... then I cleaned the mud off the mirror, and all's well ... ;-} Truth be told, I wouldn't mind having it though. Luck wit yours, eh.

Seems to me they use a standard bulb, and I've been told the main difference is the lens - that's supposed to concentrate the light straight back and I know it's a different shade of red, probably made to show up better in low visibility. Not sure just changing the bulb will give you real fog lamps. Couldn't hurt to try though. If you go dual element, maybe use a red bulb instead of clear? I use those on the bike and they definitely show up. Get good ones like Bosch as some of the cheap knockoffs are just painted and won't keep color long. That said, I like having them ... a bit more piece of mind as we get a lot of fog in the area when the weather goes weird.

Ah. One of those. Like the rear backup lights I found on mine that apparently snuck thru customs ... Undocumented feature on a lot of the earlier TCs imported to the states. Turn the light switch all the way to the right and see if it pulls out, then check the lower rear lights. Surprise!

Often wondered why the type one would even need those ... the standard running lights are visible from the sides.

Put it on thick enough, and the rocks would probably stick to it and add texture. ;-} I do know PlastiDip never really hardens up and holds up fine on my wheels anyway. I get a little rust showing thru, just touch that up and I'm good. I did these a couple years ago.

Maybe this will help?

I'll be doing inset panels on the rear doors and left wall across from the kitchen and was wondering what to do with the rest of the metal. You can get four way stretch cloth like the pros use, but ... you really got to be a pro to put that stuff in right. And I ain't that, eh. Found this stuff and will give it a go. Got a six pack sitting in the garage in a tan that's a pretty decent match for the stock upholstery. You get a rough textured matte surface, and I'm thinking one would be hard pressed to see any difference between that and the cloth if you squint a bit. You also get some time to decide whether you like it or not - it's supposed to peel easily for the first couple months before bonding hard to the metal. Once that happens, it's supposed to handle knocks and scrapes nicely. Wish me luck, eh.

Disco balls! THAT'S what I was forgetting! <G> Truth be told, I was thinking of doing sound active lighting for when I want to crank some jams. I found some LED rope lights that pulse and change color with the music. You can also go any solid color for mood lighting, or even just lighting. Now lemme see ... what did I do with that cassette of stoner hits from the '70's ... ;-} Plan is to set up storage in the front and rear sections of the "popped" top. Not much room in the sides above the original roof, so adding strip lights there would be a good use of the space. Build a nice trim box around the cut edges of the roof and that would hide the lights nicely. Oh. And this pic also shows the side windows from the inside. Those were about the biggest I could go in stock sizes without having to get crazy with the panels ... simple hole, and bolt them in.

The plywood platform will be dressed up with actual drawers eventually ... yet another example of photoshop so far. There's actually four drawers in the base - two face forward with easy access from the side door. The base is optional, but the extra height is pretty much a requirement for my nasty old knees. Actually thinking of adding another layer below the drawers with an opening long enough to store a small outdoor table for the doors and raise the total height another six inches. The convertible chair was actually kind of a nice find courtesy of Amazon. Plan is to just strap it in place (as in the picture) when travelling, and use it as a kitchen seat/comfy chair. It folds out flat for a bed, just fitting between the closed rear doors and back of the seats. Takes about a minute to convert and quite roomy. PS ... bed has plenty padding, but being an old softie, I'll probably use my AeroBed sleeping bag as well ... fit's the bed perfectly - just set my "sleep number" when inflating. <G>

One suggestion for the kitchen unit (and any furniture really) is to make it strong. I recycled the original cargo shelves that were in mine and it should survive most anything ... (and as mentioned earlier, mine's a work in progress)

I've got an old copy of Photoshop 7 here that still works in Windows 10. What are the chances of that anyway? Even Windows 10 has problem working in Windows 10 sometimes. ;-} Oh. And if you want to grab any ideas, feel free, but check with me first as some of them are still pretty much ideas. I've trashed quite a few of them along the way as well, like ... er ... pontoons and a propeller fer instance. <G>

Active enough ... I've managed to pick up a few good ideas here ... That said, been working on mine forever. Then again, the longer it takes to do the actual build, the better it looks - on paper anyway ... Let's hear it for Photoshop! <G>

Go with a hybrid system ... I have the stock horns on my Aurora as well as a kill at 100 paces air horns. The stock horns fire right up when you hit the button, but the air horns take a second for the compressor to charge up. A slight touch of the horn for that anemic factory sound, and just hold it longer for a 130db of sonic assault. Worth noting, that's a separate compressor system, and you might not get the same delay on smaller horns. PS ... recently added air horns to my motorcycle. The Stebel #11690019 is a compact one piece unit that would probably mount right up to the stock bracket on the TCs and shouldn't stress the stock relay and wiring.

Not even a fan of the "black box" data recorder. Good fodder for insurance companies looking for any misteaks you made. Discussed disconnecting that in my GM machine, and was told that would also disable the airbags ... a "do it our way or die" kinda thing I guess.

Bugs can be right tasty ... Here's what the rear windows on my type one look like inside. You can see the only modification (other than cutting the hole) was prying off the vertical panel stiffener from the cargo insert. Oh. And easy enough to see - the van is still a work in progress. Kinda sorta got side tracked - like most stuff lately ... ;-{

Moral of that story - go with smaller windows? <G> Vintage Technologies is about 100 mile round trip from here, so I stopped by their shop so they could have a peek at what I had to work with, then went with their recommendations. They also marked the panels to show where to put them for the guy who did the install. Side windows are 21x14 (VT #WD07) , and rear doors are 16x14 (VT #WD03). You also have to match the trim rings to the body - TC used "0" thickness rings designed for thin panels like mine. Anyway - I figured most anything would be better than no windows at all, but was pleasantly surprised by how much visibility improved, both side and back, especially after gutting the cargo wall. I've also got a backup camera, but prefer to actually see what's behind me when driving. The smaller rear windows are a good fit for the back doors I think. PS - careful with sliders - you'll want to make sure the drain holes are pointing either down or back, or you could get some water inside. Mine are right and tight ... No complaints here, which is kind of a bummer as I really like to complain. ;-}

Looks about like mine? I found installation ridiculously easy... ... except when my fingers cramped writing the check to the guy who installed them. ;-} * I will say, in this case, the boxier style of the older type one body paid off as there aren't any complex curves to deal with.

Series one cargo van conversion here, and I gotta say, I've always been impressed with the ride and handling. Yes, it's firm, but I certainly wouldn't call it rough. Then again, we're talking some pretty major differences from the earlier models, so hey, forget I mentioned it. <G>