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Save yourself some work and hassle ... AssUming you're using a properly sized car seat, and it's properly installed, any DOT approved seat is considered safe in any factory seating position**. You'll probably go thru four seats as your child grows if you're doing it right and per the safety council's recommendations for size and weight. ** (Except maybe the driver's seat) ;-}

Just took a quick peek on Amazon ... do a search on TPMS19, and you come up with the unit you posted ... and a Motorcraft branded unit that looks suspiciously similar for $40 ... ;-} PS ... sounds like you've actually read the book. How do you put the TC into learning mode?

The door is ajar. (It's not a jar ... it's a door, dammit!) Sounds like you've got multiple issues there. Any time I've had this sort of thing on any vehicle, it was traced back to the flexible section of the wire harness between the door and body. Doesn't help that the newer they are, the more complicated fixing it gets as the computer want's to play with itself trying to come up with a fix, and ends up screwing things up worse. PS ... there's always the infamous PLAN B ...

The ones you pic'd are for the front doors? I got em and love em ... the WeatherTech wings fit tight in the window channels. Slide them in, roll up the windows to seat them, and they ain't goin' nowhere. Really cut down on wind noise too. One advantage to my rig is sliders on the barn and sliding doors so I get good cross ventilation. I'll crack those open and never take in any rain ... PS - a cheap gutter for any slider? Check this out. Only thing I'd change is using 3M body molding tape to mount them. https://youtu.be/9M_Lh6sgCfE

Pretty sure those are just covers for the access holes to the hinge bolts ...

Oh. I mentioned it disappearing off Amazon for the benefit of others ... I already got one! <G> I suppose there's similar units available, with or without AC, but I'll leave the digging to someone else. (Did I mention I already got one?) ;-} ** Anyone setting up a power center, DO add an outside outlet so you can plug into line power when available. An inverter is nice if you're off the grid, but why use it if you don't have to? I used a standard waterproof outdoor outlet and made an adapter to give me a double male extension cord for easy hookups.

Here's my usb ports ... <G> I'll also be adding a multi-power panel in back that will give me DC/AC, and USB, all fed from my inverter. Bad news is, it's no longer listed on Amazon, but I'm sure they're available elsewhere.

Just out of curiousity, anybody ever cut those welds and lift the panel to peek inside? I've found any boxed in area like that is a magnet for rust and rot. Also, seems to me, if it doesn't provide any structural strength, be a great place to store tools or whatever (gun locker maybe?) if you add some clips or hinges to make it removable.

Not all rustoleum is, so you were mostly right ... ;-} Another option to texturize the interior walls is gravel guard paint usually used on lower body panels. To quote a tv commercial ... "I put that sh!t on everything!" Also gives a naugahyde like finish, depending on how many coats you use, then just paint over to match your design. Just be warned - the gravel guard paint is permanent.

Another one of those gotchas courtesy of Ford playing games with the "chicken" import taxes of the day. Sad thing is, the vehicles were imported as personal vehicles, and converted to commercial as that's who was buying them. Somewhere in Georgia, there's a mountain of rear seats rotting away ... Fortunately, I have an independent agent with a sense of humor and time to kill. Took some digging, but she hooked me up with an Auto Owners personal policy. No promises, but give them a try.

Was just planning to glue in some strips of stall mat to fill the gaps and flatten the floor, then go with some good commercial grade carpet. I'd expect better sound insulation than any spray on liner. PS - surprised how quiet my 2011 rides even with the barebones package. Ford did a nice job on that. Seals up tight, and none of da BOOM you get with a lot of vans.

Pre-treat ANY surface to strip wax and dirt before painting. Here's a link to the product page with application instructions ... https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/peel-coat/peel-coat-rugged-coat Here's the fabric I've been looking at. Don't forget the glue! I figure to go with a standard thin fiberboard for the panels, then just velcro them in place, or use peelable caulk. https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Upholstery-Headliner-Fabric-Backing/dp/B07F2ZRC6J

I picked up on a six pack of Rustoleum Rugged Peel Coat for the interior walls on mine. Plan is to use that on all the interior ribs, and make cloth inserts for the big panels using some of that foam backed interior cloth used for car roofs. Stuff is textured when dry for more of a naugahyde finish, and the amount of texture will depend on how thick you apply it. Listed as "peelable" but I hear it sets up solid after a month or so. Either way, I don't expect it would last long on a floor, but that's what carpet is for, eh. In any case, I'm thinking it will be a lot easier to cover all the ribs, window frames, and other bumpy bits with that then anything else. I'll keep a spare can for touch ups in case I do manage to nick the finish down the road.

Still happy with my el cheepo plastic caps. $30 on Amazon. Factory finish faded fast, but nothing a little mag paint couldn't fix. The factory steel wheels got a fresh coat of PlastiDip a couple years back too. The covers line up nicely with the holes in the rims for a good look. * Bit more work. The clips that hold the caps on tend to be weak on these universal covers, but there's ways to beef them up. You can find "how to" videos on utube. Short version - a couple strips of electrical tape stretched over the clips to lock the metal ring in place and provide grip, then a wrap around the posts with gorilla tape to keep the electrical tape from falling off. Been good for a couple years anyway, with no lost covers. TuningPros WSC-616S14 Hubcaps (14") TuningPros WSC-616S14 Hubcaps (15")

Some interesting stuff, and food for thought. Don't like the idea of having to disable ABS to turn off traction control though. Some mention of pulling fuse 15 to make that happen, but I'd think rather than pull it, just add an extension with the fuse and a switch long enough reach the shift console, then turn it on and off as needed. Some debate as to whether the system will reset properly with a hot switch or if you'd need to restart the vehicle. Seems simple enough to pop a couple female spades on the fuse terminal, along with an inline fuse holder and switch, and if it doesn't work, just pop that off and make it like it was. And having the engine cut out on a major slide? That's just plain scary and dangerous, especially in traffic - what were they thinking?? Never had that happen on my 2011, so maybe they fixed that "feature" along the way? In the meantime, I'd already stumbled across using the gear selection to help control the vehicle when Drive doesn't do it. New snow, I'll typically start out in second until I get a feel for the road, then shift up if I can get away with it.