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If they're that tight, heat the wheels before installing them and let them shrink on. Fun part will be watching a garage mechanic try to take them off - take plenty of popcorn with you, and earplugs in case it gets really loud what with all the screaming and cursing going on. PS - similar situation here a while back doing a wheel swap. Never liked the stock "orange juicer" wheels on the classic Aurora and found some Grand Am wheels I liked. Didn't figure on the size of my calipers compared to those on the Pontiac though. There's not a lot of room to spare, and if I hear any dragging going on, chances are good it's time to pressure clean the caliper slides ...

You mentioned having some health issues. Same here, and tenting like in the bad old days just ain't gonna happen. Even the old pop up is difficult at best to set up, and couple times I tried it, that was pretty much the end of the day for me. That said, I can open up a door or two and setting up for an overnite or weekend is relatively easy. Or it should be once I'm done fiddle fartin' around with it and just git er done ... ;-} PS ... I envy your pro layout, but plan here is to also leave the thing wheelchair accessible. Ain't getting any younger ...

No problems with the radio in my 2011, eh ... <G> Was pleasantly surprised to find out a standard "double din" chassis fit the transit with the correct mounting kit.

Possible to get specifics on the adjustable lift kit used? I popped the top on my 2011 TC for wheelchair and overnight camping. Roof height is just over 7 feet now, which can be a problem in parking garages, and I wouldn't mind being able to lower it a few inches for getting in too. PS ... I found out about the height issue when I couldn't fit into a hospital parking ramp. dOH! Fortunately, they had a "roof knocker" height bar for early warning, which only left having to back that bad boy out a couple hundred feet ... beep beep beep ...

? The tint film is readily available, and your options are either having it done professionally, or doing it yourself. First thing I'd do is take a straight edge to the glass and see how if it's got any complex curves to deal with - that can be tricky to deal with, but there, a heat gun and patience will usually win the day. Probably not a bad idea to get an extra roll for those ooPs moments. PS ... there's ways around complex curves too. This one was a real PITA, so I went with a tint "decal" that gives enough coverage to kill any heat buildup and add privacy.

Reading the book? That's cheating!! <G> Anyway - just checked my 2011, and the switch only pulls out when in the headlight position and I get the fog indicator in the speedo. I suppose if I wanted to, I could swap switches (and update the brain probably) if I add a set of front fogs, or ... just go with an outboard switch.

Your fob should have an "open trunk" button. Use that. Works on mine anyway.

One new factiod I missed earlier. I get a foglight indicator on the dash when I turn those rear lights on. It just shows beams to the right instead of both sides like on the switch, so I figure I get a different light for front fogs if that's enabled, but I'd be tickled pink to find some active sockets up front when I start digging in there. I assUme pulling the switch out will turn on both front and rear fogs if installed, and maybe the computer is smart enough to change the indicator if both are on. With such "undocumented features", you don't know till you try. Anyone else check to see if their rear fogs work? Might just be the early imports and it just took them a while to figure out how to turn them off for sales in the states. 2011 was only the second year for the TC imports here.

Already got a nice set of round LED fogs left over from another project that will fit in. I've seen where some folk remove the fake bezels and cut those out for whatever lights they're using, then custom make brackets and a wiring harness. Something for a slow day, eh. I'm thinking I can split the lights I have and trap the bezel between the front and back of the fixture. That should take care of mounting as they're not all that heavy. Looks like they'd end up pointing down a bit, which would be perfect for that sort of thing.

I noticed a different hue to the bulb, but didn't seem all that much brighter overall. Then again, it was just a quick test. Looks to be a standard base bulb, so should be easy enough to swap out. Maybe hook it up with a BackOff module - those can be programmed to give three quick flashes and then go steady for three seconds, then off. Even then, you'd probably want to be able to switch them off in stop and go traffic. Couldn't be any worse than these gawdawful Cadillacs coming off the line nowadays - those suckers can burn retinas. Lincolns also have a full width line array that are probably just a little dimmer than a nuclear blast at ground zero ...

... and if not, as usual, cobble something together. Wouldn't be the first time, won't be the las .... ZAP!!

Wish they would have put the euro FRONT fog lamps in on mine as well ... Long as on the subject of front fogs ... I hear rumors that the harness already has a pigtail for those if I were to decide to add them?

IOU One Cigar !! Only thing I'd add ... the switch will only pull out in the far right (headlights) position. You'd have to do this every time you want the extra lights on. Should be easier to just snip the wires to those from the harness and bridge in from the existing running (or brake!) light sockets.

I like it. Got a nice easy fold away bed for it too. That converts easily into a lounge chair and just fits front to back. Half the width of the van, so I can still build some storage for the other wall and still have room to shuffle about. PS ... haven't sworn off photoshop though - it's real handy for trying out ideas. Here's my latest tweak with some custom decals (since ordered and awaiting installation): (the decals harken back to the bad old daze driving my VW campers around. The Dawn Patrol rides again! Hiyo silver!!

OK ... this one's got me baffled. Keeps up, I may just have to read the book! (oh no ... say it ain't so!) <G> Lower rear red lenses on a 2011 XLT - are they supposed to do anything? Can't say I ever noticed them on. Just had to replace a brake light bulb, and did some digging. Both sides are socketed, both are two wire, both have good bulbs, and no power on test no matter the light switch positions. Dual wire socket would indicate either an extra brake light, or an extra running light, but not both? Hep me! ** I'm wondering if it's a multi-national thing where some locations allow yellow lenses and some not? Simple wire switch and they're covered. Or not.

Old thread, and you're all right. The original pic IS photoshop, but I've had the body work done now. Hard part was finding someone to do it - all the pros said "oh nos - liability!! Wot happens if it blows off in traffic? And I told them how about if I tie myself to the roof and if it lets loose I'll be the first to know. Anyway - friend of a friend of a friend does custom work on racecars, and said he'd never done anything like that ... come on down! Did a fabulous job I think, inside and out. I still gotta do some trim and such, but even now it doesn't look half bad. Few questions about the windows - I got those from a fairly local dealer along with the roof fan. https://www.teardroptrailerparts.com/ ** Also got the top fan and stereo upgrades installed. Kind of on hold right now while I'm working on a couple other projects. Oh, and the hubcaps came off Amazon for $25 ... ;-}

Holy Carp, Batman! $460 installed at the stealership ...

Would I like fries with that? <G> I may try fixing that myself come spring, and just be ready to freeze my a$$ off for a while if the window gets stuck down. Thing is, I just had some major surgery and any shopping I do is at drive up windows, which I suppose is why I'm noticing the problem now. I'll call the Ford dealer and get a quote anyway.

Answering my own question here ... looks like the motor, regulator and track are all one unit ... Rock Auto sells the Motorcraft part for $160, so it should be less than a grand a Ford dealer. <G>

Next question - is the relay built into the motor? Replace the whole shebang with a rebuilt and be done with it?

My driver's side window is giving me some grief recently as well. Goes down fine, but takes a few tries to get it to go back up. I hear a relay type click in the door when I hit the switch, and the window moves smoothly when it does work, so I don't think it's the main module. Maybe a relay going bad in the door or motor? PS - no recent work on the vehicle so I don't expect it's a loose connection or broken wire.

Seems reasonable, assUming someone actually took the time to tweak the performance characteristics AND got it right. The manufacturer is going for a setup that will give reasonable performance while meeting all the guvmint mandates for emissions and mileage. Not necessarily a priority for the performance tuner. The ODB-II port IS a two way connection that's used to update the firmware on the ECM, so having a dongle able to reprogram on the fly is possible. Only caveat I can think of is that would give you a 24/7 power drain from an active socket, but probably no worse than the average car radio or electronic odometer.

Eh ... I'd still try the Sil Glyde. If nothing else, it revitalizes the seals and keeps them soft. The ones on my Aurora are going on 20 years old and original ... Just squeeze some on, rub it in with a throwaway glove, let it soak in for a few minutes, and wipe the excess off with a paper towel. I do that once a year. Do all the door openings and you might just be pleasantly surprised if it quiets down road noise as well. Oh. Check carefully around the third eye brake light as well. Cracked seal there could let water in so it leaks where the wire enters the roof ...

Lift gate or cargo doors? I had a similar issue, and it was the gasket between the doors at the tip that wasn't sealing tight. Normally not an issue, but a good driving rain with the wind blowing in the right direction would bypass that. Doesn't happen that often, and not a problem driving down the road (even in a recent frog strangler), so I'm not getting too worked up about it, but replacing that IS on my to do list. PS - current solution was to goop the seal with NAPA Silglyde. Great stuff for revitalizing window and door seals. I use it regularly on my Aurora as well - door seals start to whistle, treat them, and just like new.

You forgot Rob Ford, eh ... Sure you're not one of them? Rumour has it you were caught ordering a Kraft dinner with a side of fatback the other day!