Fifty150

You have no way to reprogram this problem. At least I don't think that you do. It would require rewriting the operation strategy in the van's computer, in relation to the operating temperature parameters. I doubt that is your issue. Your van is reading temp sensors and turning the fan on and off as needed. I doubt if those temperature parameters need to be reprogrammed. It would be interesting to actually view those readings in real time. The FORScan app will allow you to see temp sensor readings and the fan speed. That's a start. When the dashboard message comes on, see which sensor is actually reading a high temperature. Before you even open the hood, you can see if the computer is reading the fan, and if the computer shows that the fan is on. Is coolant temp within 10° of cylinder head temp? It would be a problem if coolant temp was 200° & cylinder head was 250°. Or if coolant and cylinder head were around 200°, and transmission temp over 225°. I want to say that coolant, cylinder, and transmission temp should all be under 225°. Another thing to look for is if the computer shows your fan being on, and you lift the hood to find that it's not actually on. Computer controls the fan, and thinks it's on. Look for a poor connection. Check the actual wiring harness. Reason being that when the dealership replaced the transmission, the mechanic may have left it loose. Completely unplug the harness and look. Are pins damaged? Is it burnt like it has been shorting out? Click it firmly back in place. Not that I don't trust your dealership tech. Have another dealership tech or mechanic physically look at the new transmission. Ask to have all the connections checked. It won't be the first time a tech installed a part, and left something loose or unplugged. Maybe a wire damaged. Broke some connection pins in the harness. Skipped dielectric grease. Or even pinched down a wire. No reason at all for van to show overheating when you start the van. I want to look for a temperature sensor failure. Or have a mechanic test the sensors. Suppose you have the FORScan app on, start van cold in the morning, and cylinder head sensor reading is high.....that sensor is faulty.

Weight of the lights and the bracket are held by the 2 bolts next to the license plate, and the license plate bolts. Weight is forward. Bumper is not rigid. You could fabricate a support from the front of the mount to the plastic bumper, creating a triangle.

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So with the new transmission, van goes into reverse?

Since the van's computer is reading the temperature as high, the sensors for coolant and cylinder head are probably working. Or maybe not. The cooling system has sensors for coolant temp, cylinder head temp, and transmission temp. The mechanical thermostat is the primary regulator. Assuming that the thermostat opens, hot fluid flows to the radiator. Assuming that the water pump is working, fluid cools and circulates back to the engine. Assuming that the coolant temp and cylinder head sensors are working, the electric fan should turn on as needed. Assuming that transmission temp sensor is working, a series of electronically controlled valves will allow cool radiator fluid to the heat exchanger. The thermostat could be stuck closed. The water pump could be broken. The fan could be broken. The fan relay could be broken. The fan may have blown a fuse. Check the fan connection. A mechanic may have forgotten to reconnect the fan. The car's computer could be failing in monitoring sensors and turning the fan on. Forscan could help with checking the sensors, and the fan. Old school thermometer to check hose temperature. If upper hose has fluid, and is hot, the thermostat opened. Make the dealership fix it. Try a different dealership. Escalate your concerns to Ford corporate. Van should be under warranty. Consult with a lemon law attorney.

Cheap aftermarket cameras are not compatible with OEM system.

No. You did the right thing. Change the plugs before they foul, misfire, get stuck, break off.......same reason why we change oil before it turns to sludge. Did it look dirty?

Aftermarket cameras are really cheap.

This time around, Havoline. Synthetic blend 5W20. It was a sale price. $11.32 per 5 quart jug.

Holiday weekend oil change. Here is a photo of the funnel which fits under the cowling. 5.7 quarts. 32 ounces to a quart. So you need another 22.4 ounces. I use a paint mix bucket. I also add a little oil into the filter which I consider to be 0.4 ounce. In case anyone is curious, the Fumoto valve does stick out. No jacks. No ramps. I used the incline of a driveway. Just enough to get it done.

Very nice. I used the same inexpensive license plate holder to mount a LED light bar.

That funnel will fit in the hole. But the radiator hose on top of the vent cap might get in the way.

Now you can open a RobinHood account.

I have the least amount of miles. 2016. 38,XXX. Oil changes. 1 transmission fluid exchange. Several sets of wipers. New air filter.

It can be done. You need a dyno. A custom tune can be uploaded. Just like any other car. Change the fuel mapping for air / fuel ratio. Change the shift points and shift firmness. Advance or retard spark. $1200 and you won't notice a thing. The dyno may measure a 1 - 3 horsepower increase. You could get another ft lbs of torque. But in the real world, you are not winning any races. You won't even feel the difference accelerating a freeway onramp to merge into traffic flow.

You can comfortably sleep 2.

Thanks!

That doesn't sound good.

Maybe we should take a ride out there, and measure it. If it doesn't fit, we have 3 vans. I can cut it down to size with my sawzall, and we could each transport 1 section.

A lot of different points of view. A lot of opinions. Just glad that you're safe & healthy. The build is working out really well.

You are in LA. You should be able to find at least a dozen good shops right in your neighborhood. The real problem with LA, is that there are so many shops, you don't know who to choose from. I would look for a shop which specializes in Ford. They will be more experienced with Ford vehicles, probably have computers for Ford cars, and be better informed about things like service bulletins, recalls, anc common problems. So they may see all kinds of different Ford models with the same transmission, with the same issue, and be able to address it efficiently. As opposed to a really good mechanic, who works on all sorts of cars. A wide breadth of knowledge from Toyota to Maybach; but lacking in depth of knowledge for Ford. When in doubt, Galpin Ford. Whatever you do, do not buy a used transmission. If anyone has to really explain to you why.......start taking the bus. Not for your benefit, but I'll lend my opinion on used transmissions. Would you like to buy my used wiper blades or used motor oil? Any used transmission from a junk yard or sold on eBay will not come with a warranty. You have no way of testing the transmission, other than installing it to see if it works. Some people will claim that it was working. Sure, so was yours when you bought it. Know that any and every transmission will not last forever. It makes no sense to spend time and money to install a used transmission, only to have no reasonable expectation of the transmission even working after you install it. Worst case scenario, you install a used transmission, it's just as bad or worst than your transmission, and you can't get your money back or recover your own time lost. Best case scenario is that the used transmission works, only you have no warranty, and it could work today and fail tomorrow. A quick look online, and you will find a lot of options. You may be able to correct the transmission with just solenoids and a valve body kit. I have no idea what budget you have in mind. I also have no idea what you paid for this van. Only you can factor what is economically reasonable for you. My 1st basis for comparison is cost of repair vs replacement. A transmission, new, remanufactured, or rebuilt + installation will most likely be equal to or more than the value of the 2010 with high mileage. If the total cost is from $1K for buying the kits and doing it myself, to upwards of $3K for a shop installation, what kind of car can I buy for $3K? Do I spend $30Kon a new car, to solve a $3K problem. Assuming that for $3K, I get a warranty, and I can expect at least a few more years, will anything else go wrong? Will I need engine work? Is the body rusted? Is the roof leaking?

This has got to be a joke. But it's not. This guy put green tint on his headlight.

It looks like the pallet was actually strapped down. And it also looked like the strap was the skinny, 1" size, which is not adequate for that amount of weight. 1 pallet of small concrete boxes is a little over 1 ton. Was that van overloaded? There was no bulkhead partition. And the dummy wasn't wearing PPE.

Good observation. Who has already changed their oil twice in the last month? Even though the car wasn't even close to needing an oil change.

Is this the start of yet another discussion on motor oil? There's a heated discussion on every other car forum. Weight. Brand. Then the science of formulation. People will post their used oil analysis. Post photos of their oil filters cut open. Reference all the videos on YouTube. And everybody wins.....or there's no winner.....and we all feel good about continuing whatever it is that we are doing. Not often, do you see someone online "see the light" about someone else's choice of oil/filter/oil change interval - then profusely apologize and vow to follow the leader. But it could happen. I might switch to 4 quarts of 10W40 every 3,000 miles, as opposed to recommended in the owners manual, because that's in the fine print of the oil change coupons. In all honesty, I don't think there will be any real difference. By the time your engine reaches over 100,000 miles, then 200,000 miles, there's no way to tell if it made any real difference. I don't think you'll drive the car until the engine fails. Most modern cars have engines that outlast the car. My 97 Explorer "old tech" engine and transmission had around 500,000 miles when I got rid of it, and the engine and transmission were in great condition. The rest of the car had way too much rust, was leaking in the rain, the interior was completely worn out, the headliner was falling down, the carpet kit was destroyed, the windshield had so many scratches that it felt like driving drunk - the engine and transmission outlasted the car.