Fifty150

That doesn't sound good.

Maybe we should take a ride out there, and measure it. If it doesn't fit, we have 3 vans. I can cut it down to size with my sawzall, and we could each transport 1 section.

A lot of different points of view. A lot of opinions. Just glad that you're safe & healthy. The build is working out really well.

You are in LA. You should be able to find at least a dozen good shops right in your neighborhood. The real problem with LA, is that there are so many shops, you don't know who to choose from. I would look for a shop which specializes in Ford. They will be more experienced with Ford vehicles, probably have computers for Ford cars, and be better informed about things like service bulletins, recalls, anc common problems. So they may see all kinds of different Ford models with the same transmission, with the same issue, and be able to address it efficiently. As opposed to a really good mechanic, who works on all sorts of cars. A wide breadth of knowledge from Toyota to Maybach; but lacking in depth of knowledge for Ford. When in doubt, Galpin Ford. Whatever you do, do not buy a used transmission. If anyone has to really explain to you why.......start taking the bus. Not for your benefit, but I'll lend my opinion on used transmissions. Would you like to buy my used wiper blades or used motor oil? Any used transmission from a junk yard or sold on eBay will not come with a warranty. You have no way of testing the transmission, other than installing it to see if it works. Some people will claim that it was working. Sure, so was yours when you bought it. Know that any and every transmission will not last forever. It makes no sense to spend time and money to install a used transmission, only to have no reasonable expectation of the transmission even working after you install it. Worst case scenario, you install a used transmission, it's just as bad or worst than your transmission, and you can't get your money back or recover your own time lost. Best case scenario is that the used transmission works, only you have no warranty, and it could work today and fail tomorrow. A quick look online, and you will find a lot of options. You may be able to correct the transmission with just solenoids and a valve body kit. I have no idea what budget you have in mind. I also have no idea what you paid for this van. Only you can factor what is economically reasonable for you. My 1st basis for comparison is cost of repair vs replacement. A transmission, new, remanufactured, or rebuilt + installation will most likely be equal to or more than the value of the 2010 with high mileage. If the total cost is from $1K for buying the kits and doing it myself, to upwards of $3K for a shop installation, what kind of car can I buy for $3K? Do I spend $30Kon a new car, to solve a $3K problem. Assuming that for $3K, I get a warranty, and I can expect at least a few more years, will anything else go wrong? Will I need engine work? Is the body rusted? Is the roof leaking?

This has got to be a joke. But it's not. This guy put green tint on his headlight.

It looks like the pallet was actually strapped down. And it also looked like the strap was the skinny, 1" size, which is not adequate for that amount of weight. 1 pallet of small concrete boxes is a little over 1 ton. Was that van overloaded? There was no bulkhead partition. And the dummy wasn't wearing PPE.

Good observation. Who has already changed their oil twice in the last month? Even though the car wasn't even close to needing an oil change.

Is this the start of yet another discussion on motor oil? There's a heated discussion on every other car forum. Weight. Brand. Then the science of formulation. People will post their used oil analysis. Post photos of their oil filters cut open. Reference all the videos on YouTube. And everybody wins.....or there's no winner.....and we all feel good about continuing whatever it is that we are doing. Not often, do you see someone online "see the light" about someone else's choice of oil/filter/oil change interval - then profusely apologize and vow to follow the leader. But it could happen. I might switch to 4 quarts of 10W40 every 3,000 miles, as opposed to recommended in the owners manual, because that's in the fine print of the oil change coupons. In all honesty, I don't think there will be any real difference. By the time your engine reaches over 100,000 miles, then 200,000 miles, there's no way to tell if it made any real difference. I don't think you'll drive the car until the engine fails. Most modern cars have engines that outlast the car. My 97 Explorer "old tech" engine and transmission had around 500,000 miles when I got rid of it, and the engine and transmission were in great condition. The rest of the car had way too much rust, was leaking in the rain, the interior was completely worn out, the headliner was falling down, the carpet kit was destroyed, the windshield had so many scratches that it felt like driving drunk - the engine and transmission outlasted the car.

Or pallets of concrete.

Last summer, there were 100+ days during the summer. We don't get it often, but it happens. Same way I was in Las Vegas Chinatown when there was a flash flood, and water was to my knees. My Transit Connect had no problems at all with maintaining the coolant and transmission fluid temperature. This is a vehicle with modern engineering. Not the 70's. Not that I am old enough to remember the Pinto/Mustang II.

I think back then, the benefit was that the thicker oil sludged to stop leaks.....Or at least that's what people thought at the time. My Dad would use 20W50. But we are talking about a couple of scores in time. As in 4 scores, and 7 years ago. The modern Ford owners manuals call for 5W20, with 0W20 as an alternative weight. A lot of cars are specifying 0W18. Of course there are high performance and European motors which use higher weight oil. And there are people who believe that lower weight oil is only for meeting CAFE standards. And I think that there are Ford trucks and Mustangs which actually do work better with 30 weight oil. But the Transit Connect 2.5 liter engine does fine with 20 weight oil.

Your engine is designed to use 20 weight oil. Not 30 weight. The thicker oil will not help protect your engine. 100+ ambient temperature is fine. The car was designed for that. Your cooling system will still bring the operating temperature of the engine to a correct level. In theory, your Transit Connect will still operate at or below 225 degree Fahrenheit. The water pump will still work. The electric fan will still turn on. A heavier oil is not beneficial.

The hardest hit will be the communities of faith which reject modern medicine, science, and technology. Imagine this virus in an Anabaptist community. Or the churches that believe in prayer over medicine. Every once in awhile, we see on the news how parents refused medical treatment and their children died. Those people are going to be in a lot of trouble.

I went out to pickup some Chinese sausage and bacon. There was an uneasy tension everywhere I went. People looked and acted scared. I thought it was just my imagination, running away with me. Then I noticed that security cameras were turning to focus in on me. Can you believe that? Racial discrimination. In this day and age. I'm outraged. Petrified and mortified.

That's only good to interfere with radio signals from the government implant in your brain.

When I shop, I use a couple of ice chest. It keeps everything cool and fresh until I get home.

I don't know if a tailgate net will contain dogs in a Transit Connect.

Santa Clara County has a lot of cases. You may need a cool, hipster messenger bag. Timbuk2 is Made In San Francisco. Have your son pick 1 up at the factory outlet store, and send it to you. I use mine when I go grocery shopping on the Harley. Other guys on Harleys think it's not consistent with the image they are trying to cultivate. But I don't care. That's why I don't join their clubs, and wear their patches. Nobody is allowing you to buy online, and pickup in store. Once it's at the store, it's 1st come, 1st served. All luck of the draw. If you show up when it's still on the shelf, it's yours. Once everybody has 100 rolls in their house, they will stop buying. Then we can all go back to buying 6 rolls at a time. I'm not sure what happened. I think the bank was robbed today. Cops everywhere.

Costco $16.99 30 rolls. Target $17.49 12 rolls. Sure, it's not the same. Thicker paper, softer, 2 ply, linear feet, sheets per roll........ Sometimes you don't have a choice. If toilet paper is sold out everywhere, then you buy whatever is available, where ever you find it, and at whatever the price. People hoard out of instinct. I don't blame them. If I could, I would stock up on fuel while the price of gas is low. Sugar, flour, rice.......the list is long. It does create an artificial change in supply vs demand, and causes a temporary inflation. When so many people are suddenly without income, the poor have to pay more. Feelings of desperation and hopelessness. Depression soars. People behave out of character. Some people will find ways to profit at another's misery. This whole experience has been insightful.

I see a lot of commercial grade equipment. Most of these mount permanently, meaning that you have to bolt them in. It may not be what you really want. You could have something made by a metal shop.

Welcome to the party, pal.

Where I live, we have been staying home since Monday. Mayor's orders. Today is Sunday. Anyone else sitting at home? Boredom has set in. I'm now thinking of performing unneeded service on the cars. Oil change, spark plugs.......For no reason. Then there is no eating out. I have had to make my own food. Today's meal was born out of cabin fever. I like steak and eggs. I like tomato beef. I like tomato and eggs. Then there's my lunch of all 3 combined.

Brembo are good. I think more than double what low price brakes cost. I was recently on the phone with a tech support guy from Centric. He told me that for most cars, OEM type rotors are the best. Drilled and slotted rotors do not stop better from 60-0, pads don't wear as well, you can't resurface them, and they can warp & fracture. According to the tech support guy, even their own brands of drilled and slotted rotors were just clever marketing, as people pay more because they look good. All these years, I have been spending extra money. Wasted.

10 months, running fine. I wouldn't worry about it. That could have been something overlooked from install at the factory. A piece of stray garbage that wasn't noticed. Or you could stress out, and never really figure it out.