zalienz

I like it!

Accurate statement. I drove all of these. I liked The Metris, but wasn't willing to spend a extra 10K+ for it. The TC was the best bang for the buck, and pretty good looking. The remaining small vans are bare bones commercial oriented.

I'm interested to see if anyone is willing to shell out $100 and try the OBD port chip, and post some meaningful results. I'm not expecting much improvement.

I love my 2017, mostly use it for hauling purposes, not a minivan. The only things I like about the 2019 are the exterior colors, especially the Kapoor Red, and the Blue. I would have chose the Kapoor Red in a heartbeat. In fantasy land, I'd convert mine to a Euro M-Sport, and add a Focus RS powerplant and drivetrain.... yea, well, dreams are free where imagination and money are endless.

Yea, what's up with that. The Motorcraft FA1910 fits a wide range of TC engine air filter Part #: FA1910 (9601) Air Cleaner Usage: 09/30/2013 - 03/11/2019, Transit/Tourneo Connect 2013-, 2.5L Duratec (110kW/150PS), (+)"CDN/PR/USA"

I'm interested to know also, but according to K&N's catalog, it fits a 2016, but not the 2017.... so I'm out of luck.

Agreed on the warranty issue part. Temp plates and frames are installed at pre-delivery service and the installers usually use a power tool to install the plates and frames. This can strip out the plastic or metal nut in the body, making it difficult to remove the bolt/screw, just spinning around. The trick is to apply pressure behind the frame with a trim clip tool, prying outwards while unscrewing it to get the bolt out. But if you have access to the Ford Dealer, let them do it.

My first question is why did the axle break? CV boots fail from time to time, never seen a FWD axle actually break. It will probably be the solution to your issue. Better that than the tranny. And yes, if it was the trans, you would get a reman, not a new one. The only time you get a truly new one is if it fails before delivery to the customer.

Nice, I just ordered one of those hitch covers. $12 from Manny, Moe and Jack. Amazon wanted $30.....

Mine does most of these oddities as well. I usually use a USB stick for music, and it always changes from USB to FM or AM, never XM and rarely USB after starting. Sync 3 also re-indexes the USB stick after every start, it can take 10 minutes of driving before I can access playlists, frustrating for short trips. I haven;t had the A/C issue, but if the temp control is all the way cold, it defaults to recirculate. One click warmer it will stay in fresh unless I manually select recirc. I don't have auto headlights, wish I did, but the screen stays in daytime mode in the dark until I turn the headlights on.

Looking at this picture it appears the hose might be disconnected at the evaporator case - I can see the black rubber o-ring at the top 90 degree plastic piece, check that first. It may just need to be pressed back into the case, which would be an easy fix.

Water in the interior often comes from a kinked or plugged up A/C evaporator drain hose. It's at the lower end of the A/C case, down below the shifter and goes through the firewall or floor. Sometimes a simple spider web can block the hose, then water fills up in the evaporator case until it overflows into the interior. Since you are so deep into the interior now, it would be very wise to find the cause and resolve it.

You'll need to order it from the UK, but it is available for 2014-newer. https://www.tvl-ltd.co.uk/vehicles/ford/connect-2014-present/ford-connect-2014-present-replock

I bought the 50 sq. ft roll of the ultimate. I didn't use it all, I have about 10 sq ft. of it left over. I also used the VComp in the front doors and the floor on top of the ultimate. Prices have gone up a bit since I did it. I have the service manual that made the disassembly and reassembly easy for me, and I'm a 30 year auto technician, just lots of things to take apart and put back together. You may not need to do the roof, I had the time and product, so why not. Also, regarding the front speakers, I forgot to add you can get speaker adapters made by Metra that will interface a 6.5 or 6.75 door speaker to the TC easily. They are about 20 bucks for both sides. That's what I opted for.

I also upgraded my audio system using the factory radio and Sync 3. I added a AudioControl DQ-61 factory integration processor in the little cubby under the passenger seat, it fit perfectly. It will interface with the high level speaker outputs of the factory radio and convert it into low level outputs for amplifiers. And lots of features. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/ I have a cargo van, so only a 2 + tweeter system and used a Rockford Fosgate P500X2 power amplifier - 150 watts per channel into 4 ohm speakers You may need a 4 or 5 channel amp depending on your setup. https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/selector/mobile-amplifiers/ I decided on powered subwoofers, and used JBL BassPro under the seat subs. I have (2), one under each front seat. If you are interested in heavy bass (rap, boom boom etc) these are not the subs for you. The are decent down to 35hz, but nothing below that and the 8" subs don't move a lot of air. But for most rock, and anything else music related, they work fine. I found these on the JBL refurbished site for $75.00 less than normal list price, each. https://www.jbl.com/car-subwoofers/BASSPRO+SL.html Front door and tweeter speakers I used HERTZ HSK-165.4 6.5" 250W COMPONENT SPEAKERS NEODYMIUM TWEETERS & CROSSOVERS, speakers in the factory locations. Some modifications were needed to fit the tweeters, they are larger than the factory tweeters, but I got them to fit in the A-pillars. Great sound from these, very accurate and sweet. My goal was a clean system with punch, and these delivered. Hertz has changed their lineup since then (early 2017). http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/ I ran 6 gauge wire from the battery, positive and negative; there is a empty fuse location in the high powered junction box (forward of the battery) and added a 100 amp MIDI fuse where the diesel glow plug location would be, and connected the ground to the bolt where the battery ground bolt is connected to the body. Everything is nice and tidy. I purchased 6 gauge lugs and a cool lug crimping tool to get that done, but worked great. I added a fuse block under the driver seat, really nice (overkill) Blue Sea Safety hub 100 fuse block, waterproof, that feeds the amp, both subs, and the processor. Many hours of wiring and soldering, you will need a good wiring diagram. I daisy chained into the factory harness behind the lower center trim (below the shifter) out from the radio and back from the amp into the factory wiring to the speakers using Audioquest speaker cable. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7725/SafetyHub_100_Fuse_Block https://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-slip-50-in-wall-speaker-cable-white/2322063.p?skuId=2322063 Finally, I did a bunch of sound insulation, using a product called B-Quiet, similar to Dynamat but less cost. I had the entire interior out except the dash, insulated the floors, doors, A-pillars, B-pillars and the complete roof above the headliner. It was a lot of work but the noise floor is much lower, quieter now, makes your sound system sound better, Bluetooth voice activation work better, and much nicer driving experience even with the audio system off. I'm happy I did it. https://www.b-quiet.com/ Last but not least was tuning, getting the gains set right (I had access to a PicoScope, frankly a scope is the very best way to go) then adjusting the crossovers, sub levels, using a real time analyzer for EQ, man it goes on and on, depending on how finicky you are. I also find significant differences in source change, for example FM, XM, CD, USB all sound different. FM and XM boost the bass, so if you dial it in on CD or USB and it sounds great, it will be too boomy on FM or XM. And that's how I did it. It took a couple of weeks, working slowly, no rush in the evenings and weekends. It was a long road, but I'm happy with it, and the great thing is you can look into the vehicle and nothing looks different from stock and it sounds tits. And that's that. Good luck!

Sorry, my bad, I meant milliamps, not millivolts. Thanks for catching my error, Beta Don.

G B L is right. You need a ammeter in series with the battery that reads millivolts (mV). Anything over 50 mV is too high. The fuse pull trick will tell you which circuit is affected, and you can go from there. Aftermarket accessories are a common cause, like a LoJack or something like that. Good luck.

Bulbs don't short when they blow, they create the opposite, an open circuit. For DC current to flow, you need a complete circuit - 12V power, a load (bulb) and and a ground. A blown bulb will not short out a brake light switch.

I considered the Metris before buying the TC. The Metris was larger, more capable in a cargo sense, but it was $10,000 more than my TC. And, I liked the styling of the TC better. For what I needed it for (hauling drums) the TC had enough space. Factor in the price of Mercedes replacement parts vs Ford down the road, fuel economy, the TC made more sense. I love this van. Off topic, but thanks to Fifty150 for the window deflector recommendation, the Weathertech deflectors work and look great.

This worked for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004W80MPE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wow, the amount of mileage vs the amount of maintenance and repairs is phenomenal. Most people would be happy with 200K on a vehicle. It speaks pretty highly of the reliability and build level of these vans. Motor on...

The Craftsman jack is definitely a better unit than the Harbor Freight. Much higher capacity, albeit a refurbished unit. My experience is the rams fail. It would depend on your intended use. For example, I have a OTC aluminum jack in my work van, it gets the job done and weighs about 35 lbs. Sometimes it's in and out of the van 2 - 3 times a day. The Craftsman jack is 90 lbs, and my back would be screaming at me if I had to haul that in & out all day. Get the Craftsman for occasional use, and the extended warranty on the Harbor Freight unit if you choose it and will use it a lot.

Welcome George! I am also a drummer, on the West Coast however, and bought the TC for the same reasons you did. They are very capable and easy to load vans that hold a lot of gear. Enjoy your ride!

I used an alternative to Dynamat, called B Quiet. https://www.b-quiet.com/ I installed B-Quiet ultimate to the front floor, both front doors, A-pillars, B-Pillars and the roof above the headliner. I also installed B-Quiet V-Comp to the floor and both front doors on top of the Ultimate. I have a Ranger MaxView Partition installed, so I don't get the sound from the cargo area of the van. It is much quieter and comfortable to drive after the installation. However, I did a road trip through Washington State in 2017 and I can agree with you the roads there are very loud, even with the insulation, I was a bit shocked at how loud it was. But on smooth roads, boy it's a dream, and the audio system is so much clearer. Hope this helps. I think it was worth the cost and effort.

Sweet, I really like it. I almost went with the red, chose black instead. I like the wheels, 17" - couldn't get them with the cargo van only the wagon. Great choice, my 2017 has been bullet proof, no warranty issues yet at 21,000 miles. Congrats! Many fun times ahead.