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They are from Helm, Inc, the original equipment manufacturer Ford contracted to use for service manuals. It was not cheap, at $177.00 for the service manual on DVD - ROM and includes complete wiring schematics. But, this is what the Ford service technicians use, and as a service technician myself, IMHO it is the best resource. You can browse the info here and choose for yourself. I try to share these photos when I find the time to visit here to help others, like yourself. http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=helm&class_2=FRD Cheers!

Sorry, I made a goof on question #2 - the outer vents are controlled by moving the adjuster on the vent itself. If it's all the way down, it closes off the airflow. The "wheels" are only for the center vents.

Welcome to the TC forum! A couple of answers, #2 - check the "wheel" on the left side of the dash, rolling it down closes off the vent, roll it up to open it #3 - The P and up arrow is the switch to turn park assist on & off. Not sure about the rest, enjoy your TC. Great little vans.

The rear blower motor is under the driver seat. You need to remove the driver seat to access it.

This is my biggest complaint about my TC. I once drove it 40 miles at night and forgot to turn the main lights / running lights on.

Everyone's situation is different. I don't know anyone who doesn't enjoy a great deal on a buy, especially a car, due to it's cost. Like G B L, I keep most of my cars a very long time. The TC replaced a 30 year old Toyota Pickup with 300K miles on it. I spent months deciding what was the right thing for me and came to the conclusion that getting what I wanted, even at a higher price was more important than a great deal, as the end game adds the value to the deal, and hopefully another 20+ plus years of enjoyment. Like many of us, I spruced it up a bit after sale - tinted windows, racing stripes, Ranger partition, major B-Quiet (Dynamat competitor) sound insulation, juiced up the audio system. It has really made this scoot a quiet, cool dream to drive with a high quality audio system. I may just keep this guy awhile.... Peace

Hi Debspaniel, What Don said is spot on. I special ordered my 2017 in May 2016 and didn't receive it until end of September 2016. It's frustrating when you configure your vehicle just the way you want it and have to wait so long. But I can say I'm really happy with my TC and it was worth the wait. Don't expect any special deals on the price, they know they have you at special order, and you'll pretty much pay what they are asking. Good Luck!

Darn, I was in San Francisco on Sunday. Back in LA now.

I made some tuning strides today. Something just wasn't right, hours of EQ was not providing the results I wanted. I had always felt the midbass was stronger on the right than the left, thought it was just speaker placement vs my ears. I came to the conclusion there was a fundamental problem somewhere in the system. I decided to pull the left front door panel and check the phasing of the left door speaker, and ah-ha, there was the answer. I'm surprised, I was really careful checking polarity connections while installing, but I made a goof - the left door speaker was out of phase. I swapped the + and - leads and sure enough, the speaker came alive and the lack of midbass issue I was experiencing was gone. Going back to the EQ, and adjusting, the sound is so full now. I'm really close, I think a very slight boost to the sub (I had previously turned it down quite a bit) will make it golden. That's next weekend's small project.

Yes it does. There are separate input and output levels so you can configure HU inputs and amplifier outputs. I was lucky enough to borrow an oscilloscope from work, and set my input and output levels just below clipping. The Rockford amp is actually a little more powerful than I need, but it allowed me to set levels slightly lower, resulting in a clean signal that is plenty loud enough, and lowers the stress, heat, and power draw on the amp. I used this processor as I have Sync 3 and am stuck with the factory head unit, but I'm not bothered by it. My goal was to have a clean, loud system with 25-20khz range that exists in the factory speaker locations, except for the subs of course. I wanted this to discourage thieves. Looking through the windows, there is no indication of anything aftermarket. The system is really decent, still tuning, don't know if I'll ever stop tuning, lol http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/dq-61/

I agree, mrtn. I have also noticed the same thing. I'm still working with a real time analyzer to get the sound where I like it. At mid volumes, I have too much sub and not enough mid bass. I'm using Hertz HSK-165.4 component speakers, 6.5 mid bass door speakers and 1" tweeters, with a Rockford P500x2 powering them, and the 2 JBL Bass pro subs. All are connected to a Audio Control DQ-61 that interfaces with the factory head unit. It's a work in progress. :-)

I used the JBL Bass Pro SL subs under the seats or my Connect, 2 of them - one under each front seat. I purchased the reman units, $75 each less than new. They work great for Rock n Roll. May not fill the bill for super bass heavy rap and stuff, but if you're not into that, they will work great, fit under the seat, powered, outta sight and mind. https://www.harmanaudio.com/jbl/BASSPRO+SL.html?dwvar_BASSPRO SL_color=Black-Z#start=1

I agree with the sound deadening materials. I upgraded my sound system, and in the process used a product called B-Quiet throughout the drivers compartment. Treated the entire floor, A-Pillars, front roof, both doors and the sound difference is really amazing. I have a Ranger partition behind the front seats that also does a good job of cancelling out the rear area sound, combined together, what a difference. Systems like voice activation and Bluetooth work so much better with a lower noise floor. Very good investment. I also drive a TC as a work truck, so I can compare the difference between them, the personal van is so much nicer to ride in.

I believe the question was " where do you put a jack stand if the jack is in the way?" And I responded with a solution that answered the question. There was no question about how much the cost was. Sincerely, the price is high, but the solution is excellent, and the excellent often has a high cost. I'm a middle class dude, so I'm pretty sure I'm not richer than you. But if you want the best, that answers the question, Jackpoint does it right. Peace!

Use these jack stands. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

Wow, that's some sweet work on the conversion. I also returned from a long road trip through several western states. I averaged 26mpg on 3200 miles. I noticed fuel mileage dropped pretty fast over 75mph, went through Utah also at 80mph+ Additionally, also got a cracked windshield on the way into Flagstaff, AZ. A local windshield shop fixed it at 8am the next morning, took 25 minutes and cost $35, gave him $40 and keep the change, and off I went. Seattle traffic is a major bitch, reminiscent of LA traffic. Great post!

The airbag new module will need to be armed using the appropriate scan tool and software, usually a dealership affair. Providing you did everything right, it should not be a big deal, but you'll have to pay the charge to arm the module. Keep in mind, whenever the airbag light is on, the system will not function by design.

Happy to help! I should have added the most challenging part was actually removing the console up and around the parking brake handle. I also had to pull up on the handle as high as possible to get it to clear, and use some creative turning of the console to get it out and back in. It's possible, but you have to find the sweet spot.

For the best jack stands, if you have the money - see http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html The center top comes off, set it on top of your floor jack, and the base wraps around the jack in the raised position. Then lower the car onto the stand, and pull the floor jack out. I use it on my mobile service van along with a OTC aluminum racing jack. This eliminates the age old question of where to put the jack stand after lifting the vehicle at the factory location. Effing brilliant. They are light and works correctly every time. And safety - way stronger than any stamped steel or plastic ramp.

You're welcome. Many others have posted stuff that have helped me greatly. Glad I am contributing to the Transit Connect community.

The center console is easy to remove. From the service manual: Removal NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Position the front seat in the full rearward position. Remove the front console retainers. (see photo Console 1) Torque : 41 lb.in (4.6 Nm) NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Position the front seat in the full forward position. NOTE: On both sides, as both the drivers and passengers side seats will have to be positioned. Remove the rear console retainers. (see photo Console 2) Torque : 41 lb.in (4.6 Nm) Position the parking brake lever up then unclip and remove the parking brake boot assembly. (see photo Console 3) NOTE: Cover sides and front of Console to prevent damage from Instrument Panel and seat belts. Raise the front console. (see photo Console 4) Disconnect the electrical connectors. Remove the Front Console. To install, reverse the removal procedure Easy job. Once you get the console out, you can look underneath to see if you can rotate the rectangular panel to the position you desire.

2nd gen seats are pretty good. I just returned from a 4300 mile road trip, and while the seats are about average, they did not kill my back like some others have. Sound wise, I did a lot of insulating in the forward cab area, using products from B-Quiet, similar to Dynamat. I insulated the front doors, the floor, A-Pillars and the roof above the headliner. It was in conjunction with a audio system upgrade. I was a lot of work, but I can say it is much quieter in front now. I also have a Ranger MaxView partition installed, which pretty much knocks out the sound from the cargo area. The insulating did a great job with the upper and mid frequencies, but the lower frequencies not so much. I heard a lot of road noise on rough roads through Washington State. Smooth roads are golden. Stock 16" Continental tires & wheels. Overall, pretty happy.

Yea, looks really nice.

Little did I know a year after buying my Connect I would be transferring to the mobile service division of my day gig. Now I have (2) 2017 Transit Connect Cargo Vans to roll in.

I completely agree. I have been working on cars all my life and found the same applies - use the factory spark plugs. So - Motorcraft in Fords, AC in GM products, NGK or NipponDenso in Japanese brands, Bosch in german makes, and so on. They are relatively cheap and will always work right. I'll never put another set of Champion spark plugs in any vehicle I own.