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Most newer cars, including the TC use the brake light circuit to activate the shift interlock. The shift lock actuator at the shifter needs to be energized to move the shifter out of Park range. The manual override next to the shifter is there in case something fails. Usually it's a brake light circuit fault, as a blown fuse, faulty brake light switch, etc. It is also possible the actuator fails, but this is rare. Start by checking to see if the brake lights work. If not, you'll need to do some testing with a volt meter to find the cause. The fuse and the brake light switch are the most likely suspects.

The OEM TPMS system is pretty accurate. As far as "accurate" goes, that means within 2% margin of error. Based on your readings, you're in the ballpark of 2%. Some things to keep in mind: All tires have a maximum pressure on the sidewall. It is required by law, and for liability of the tire manufacturer. This means the tire should not exceed the maximum pressure when inflated cold (before driving). Since the tire may fit many vehicles, it's up to the VEHICLE (not tire) manufacturer to decide what the inflation pressure should be, based on many factors. This cannot exceed the maximum pressure on the sidewall of the tire. Assuming your are using compressed air, and not pure Nitrogen, Tire pressures will fluctuate with temperature, about 3 pounds for every 10 degrees of temperature. Tires are rubber, and rubber is porous, meaning tires will generally lose about 2 pounds of pressure a month, naturally. Tire pressure and vehicle maintenance dictates tire pressures should be checked on ANY vehicle at least once a month, and adjusted to the vehicle manufacturers specification with the tires cold. So your numbers are accurate. I see a minimum of 49.8psi and a maximum of 52.9psi, well within the 2% margin, adjusted for driving time / temperature. At the end of the day, set your tire pressures to 44psi cold front, 48psi cold rear, and barring any abnormal leaks, you can sleep like a baby for 30 days.

In some states, it's not even legal to sell them after 6 years of production, for good reasons. Don't cheap out on tires.

13.0v - 14.5v is the correct alternator voltage on a 12v system.

I tinted mine, 50%. It made a huge difference in the amount of heat from the sun came in in the summer. A/C works much better and cools off faster. I'm mostly happy I did it. Downside is it's illegal in California, and I have noticed as I am growing older it makes it harder to see at night. But, these days I don't drive a lot at night anymore.

That definitely is a horn, and very loud, I'm sure. Only guess would be a part of the anti-theft (alarm) system. It would be loud enough to scare out a bad guy. Maybe try intentionally setting off the alarm and see if it sounds.

I noticed this too. I took a 3000 mile road trip back in 2017 and set the trip odometer so I could see how far I've gone. About a half way into the trip I noticed the trip odometer reset itself. I have no idea where the cutoff was, but it definitely has a certain mileage where it resets itself. There is probably a reason for it, but I do not know.

I'm still on the original battery, it's been 3 years. My experience with lead acid batteries is they last 3-5 years on average. If I close in on the 5 year mark, I will proactively change it for all the reasons Beta Don mentioned. I do the same with hard drives in my computer, after 5 years, ditch them and replace before they die and leave you stressed.

Seems like a fairly simple circuit. Checking the connectors first, unless anyone has a definitive answer.

My 2017 TC Cargo XLT has developed it's first real issue, 2 weeks out of warranty. The backup camera image gets scrambled on a very intermittent basis. Most times days or weeks go by working perfectly and then this happens. It may happen 2-3 times in the same day and then not again for a long time. Cycling the key sometimes corrects the issue, sometimes not. Weather isn't really an issue, been warm and dry here in California, so I doubt it's a moisture issue. Any comments? Bad camera, antenna cable. etc.? Vehicle has Sync 3.

Sounds good! You've been elected! Let us know how fast it really goes. ?

Top speed for a 2.5L Gen 2 TC is 108mph, electronically limited. I've never tried to drive it above 85mph.

Changes in emission laws made automakers work harder to lower emissions, especially cold start emissions. As has already be reiterated, the computer system need to go from fixed open loop operation to computer operated closed loop operation as quickly as possible to lower the cold start emissions. The major slowdown was with the oxygen sensors in the exhaust. They need to be hot in order to function properly and allow closed loop operation. So we now have heated oxygen sensors, which warm up the oxygen sensors after cold start much faster than just the exhaust heat. in warmer climates, the transition to closed loop happens quickly, within a minute or two. Completely normal and beneficial.

There's some pretty great readings for 102 degrees

I've been looking around trying to find factual data on what the temperature range for Mercon LV should be. I wish I could provide that source. Most links take me to forums that post peoples opinions on what that should be. Frustrating. Our TC trans uses a coolant warmer/cooler. Lubrication failures can occur if the fluid is too cold or too hot, so this makes sense. Most modern day engine coolant thermostats open about 195 degrees, which can lead one to think that 190 would be the bottom of the temp range and up to about 225 degrees. The temp data in the previous posts seem to qualify that. My auto trans teacher at UTI years ago taught us that 2 things kill auto transmissions, heat and dirt. Keeping the fluid cool and regular fluid changes are the keys to longevity. For most of us, driving in fairly normal conditions, the fluid temperature should stay in this normal range, and draining and refilling the fluid every 30K is a good idea. If you carry heavy loads or tow consistently, a extra cooler may be required. B&M makes a cooler series that includes a bypass valve when the fluid is too cold. How to tap into the factory cooling system is another issue all together. It's not as easy as it used to be. Your driving conditions will vary and make your own decisions on whether a cooler is necessary. I like the idea, but not sure if it's worth the effort.

Clicking from the starter is usually low voltage to the starter, a weak battery or bad cable connections. Sometimes batteries can short so bad they act like a sponge, and jumping the battery will not get it started. Do some battery load and voltage testing. There may be another reason (draw) that caused the battery to go down.

California mandates that trucks and cargo vans are commercial vehicles and requires commercial plates on those vehicles. But the reason is because they collect a higher plate registration fee for the commercial plates. More money in the state coffers. There are some benefits, like being able to legally park in yellow curb loading zones. The TC wagons are not classified as cargo vans but rather passenger minivans, and do not require a commercial plate, but you can request one, and pay the higher fees, if you prefer. I have USAA insurance, and they have not given me any issues insuring my cargo van. It's mostly used as a 2 passenger vehicle.

Not following the IOLM. My work TC has a fleet company that dictates service every 5K. Probably a good idea, I carry a good amount of tools & parts, and I tend to punch it a lot when I'm late for an appointment. My personal TC, I use Mobil 1 synthetic, drive it most of the time unloaded and not to heavy on the throttle. It gets a oil change about twice a year, I average 15K yearly. I reset the oil life before the reminder comes on.

I agree with what Fifty150 said. You could cause a lot of headaches should that go down in the middle of programming.

If it happened since new, it may be either a pinched wire, faulty connector to the rear bumper sensors, or a unplugged or faulty sensor. Get it in while it's still under warranty. It's a fairly simple system.

You do need to remove the interior door trim panel. Then 3 bolts, an electrical connector and rubber grommet. 2 clips on the mirror side need to be disengaged by pulling the mirror assembly straight from the door. Should be pretty easy. Electrically the wiring diagram shows with or without door modules, so I'm not sure if it's plug and play.

I have the larger mirrors on my 2017. They could only be had if you purchase the tow package. Love the larger mirrors, much safer, but added some wind noise due to the larger size.

Windguy, That's a sweet setup. Exactly what I was thinking about doing. I don't need the hanging rack, but I want to add a insulated ceiling, likely plastic that I can flush mount the led light strips to and have them switchable like yours. Thank you for sharing.

Dude, dream on. The DPS6 is definitely defective in design. Read the emails from Ford engineers stating that software calibrations could not be made to make the vehicle driveable. The DPS6 was used in Fiesta and Focus models with a dual dry clutch design. Police use Explorers and Edge primarily, they use a different trans, as does the Gen 2 TC. I'm not clear on the Gen 1 TC.

I have the same LED lamp. My only complaint is I wish there was a manual on-off switch. Otherwise, it has been a great option for me, bright and useful loading in musical gear late at night after a gig. I have to close and open the door again after it times out. I may go forward with aftermarket LED lights that can be switched on & off, there are many options available. Search LED cargo lights on Amazon.