Boomerweps

Yup, tow recovery loop. Didn't come standard after 2013. Has a left hand square edge thread so you must buy a Ford one for the 2014 and after. Cost about $30 USD. Don't lose it! It screws into the bumper after you remove the 1" round plug, easy to see in the face of the front and rear bumper. Will not work with the 2014+ rear bumper with factory tow hitch receiver since that is inset up into the bumper.

I use a gel pad from Walmart.

Beautiful! except where are the cargo doors?

Could I trouble you to list the Yakima part numbers?

The SWB even with the 2.5 handles and drives like a sports car. A noticeable difference when I traded mine in for a LWB. While I appreciate the extra room, it was the only reason I traded my 2014 for a 2017. I miss the 2014 and should have just kept it ;( My wife complained about the loss of power, especially on the last trip, our second, driving PA to UT and back. Using the select shift gearing was a must on that trip with the LWB.

Yeah, WalMart is a PITA when it comes to tires. They did not want to mount winter tires on my old RX7 without mounting them on all four tires. I brought them the tires and wheels by themselves and they mounted them.

Haven't checked this topic for a while due to illness and family visits (redundant?). Great ideas. I'll investigate the hinge rod bulge solution, easy to pack away and still be quickly available while shopping. If I can find it, I'll use some kind of scrap plastic vice metal if I can. I do have some PA gear rack mounts I could use for this if I go metal.

Thanks, Windguy. I thought I remembered you doing this but the search wouldn't find it for me. Yup, a little crude looking on the close up But effective. Being able to throw a tarp over that makes for a great standup changing area, too. I had a thought today about using a rubber or plastic trailer wheel chock in the hinge area. It's a pretty big gap, might have to design my own. These would take up less space than a two door spanning bar like you have, unless I could make the bar a folding version. I have more storage concerns because I have the passenger van (or as Ford calls it, the wagon) The driver's side door is the one I have the most problems with.

Much as I prefer and love the rear cargo doors, I've had it with them slamming into me when loading groceries. In the past it really only happened occasionally at one particular store where we usually only bought a couple bags worth of stuff. But yesterday I got slammed three times while loading a large purchase at Sam's club. I was swearing up a storm, had to have my wife hold the door open. Wouldn't even work in the 180 degree position. We had three carts full of stuff. So I'm looking at making some kind of prop to hold the doors open at the 90 degree position. Anybody already have something similar?

Where did police use a 2010 Transit Connect? Is it cargo or prison transport?

Excellent choice for a working musician. I ended up buying a 4pc folding 6' ramp so I can roll a RockNRoller R6 cart right up in, used to be able to roll in my R16, too, but when I upgraded from a 2014 SWB to a 2017 LWB passenger wagon,, I lost a few inches in height due to the permanently mounted fold down seats. I've hauled my PA a few times with plenty of room to spare. Cant see, did you get the cargo doors in the back? I had to hunt for my passenger wagon with cargo doors, hatches need not apply.

Next Amazon order, I'm getting me some

SWEET! My wife did not want the bread truck look but I liked it. Hence, we have a black TC I traded a 2014 XLT SWB for a 2017 XLT LWB and there are few differences. I was really happy with the 2014 but wanted the extra length.

Measure your windows including the smaller front door one. Those doors are huge and I did not find (a couple months ago) any of the drop over the door screens that would fit a TC front door. The back doors have the same problem ;( I considered making my own but need to find the screen material at a decent price. What I did was get plastic with screens rain gutter guards from Home Depot and cut them to fit the roll down back windows since the glass has minimal curve, unlike the front windows. Saw it on a Utube that some van dweller did. Pics are in another thread here.

Just did a quick search. Didn't see any recalls on the new TC but the Transit has a major driveshaft recall affecting basically ALL full size Transits.

Yes, the standard 2.5L.

I have a set of ramps. I even used them when installing the new hitch. but, the front air dam WILL severely rub on them if trying to lift the front.

Get this. Lots of family issues going on. My wife comes home from the dentist after a partial tooth rebuild, hour & a half in the chair. Leaves the TC outside the garage, 3PM. We take my grandson to his tutor, 4-5:30PM in my Explorer, wife locks her car from the passenger side before we go. Get home, park about a car's width from the TC, go in, have supper. Wife goes outside to smoke on the porch at 9PM, asks me why the TC's lights are on. Also wonders where her keys are. They were in the TC, which was locked, running for SIX hours. Had just filled it the day before and she only drove about 8 miles since then. Gauge now shows 5/8 full. Damn, that TC is QUIET at idle! I had to unlock it to verify the engine was running on the tachometer.

Second time using the new LWB TC to haul my PA gear. Great fit. Lifted everything in and out, then used my wheeled cart on the ground. Not using my aluminum ramp for just the one cart. With two large sliding side doors and the rear barn doors, this is the easiest loading vehicle I have owned.

I have an EZ-Up 10x10 with the screen room side attachments. That and some small plastic tarps and some cable ties can make for a great camping extension to the TC. Including a privacy potty area. All that said, wife & I have been researching small enclosed camper trailers, 18-19 foot, empty weight near 3K#, for towing with the Explorer. If I hadn't traded in the 2014 TC on a 2017 TC, we'd already have the new trailer.

Shame you covered that beautiful flooring. Looking good overall, though. A porta-potti and you have yourself a traveling RV.

Replying to my own post I easily found a US government website on fuel economy, fueleconomy.gov. The Gummint says 15 to 27% loss in mpg on E85 fuel, E10 fuel loses 3-4% mpg, E15 fuel loses 4-5%, all in comparison to 100% gasoline.

A standard, if it is consistently off by a set amount, is still a standard. lots of other variables to account for or disregard. Does the pump shut off, stop filling, when the tank is truely full? How many extra squeezes on the filler after auto shutoff? Sometimes, ballpark estimates are adaquate. PERFECT is the enemy of good enough. Old Russian Army proverb. My previous experiences with Ford trip computer's mileage estimates have been pretty close, most often within .5mpg, when compared to my manual calculations. So I rarely bother to manually calculate exact mpg anymore. Just not that important to me. Observing driver controlled variables, along with speeds, loads, and terrain variables, affecting mileage, even trip computer calculated, however can be informative.

If you saw my trip in the mountains post, you'd see I was often running it at 5000rpm to gain speed uphill. once you select a speed with the push button, it will stay there until the car's computer decides you are endangering the engine. I've not tried to force it to upshift that way, but I did have it downshift on me a couple times when coming to a stop. Then it stayed in first gear and really reved the engine up before I pushed it into Auto.

169hp @ 6000rpm 171 ft/lb @ 4500rpm factory specs tell me you have to wind it up when you want or need power. It's rare that a gasoline engine has more torque than horsepower. Regular automatic mode just doesn't shift down as needed in the mountains, even when you floor the accelerator. Thank Ford for the Select shift mode. Even just leaving it in "Sport" automatic mode was not enough. So my downshifting showing 5000rpm when needing to increase speed on an uphill makes more sense to me now.