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I previously did an update at 100k and 150k and I'm happy to say the van is still humming along great. I still change the oil every 5k miles and get the transmission service every year. Just put on my 4th set of tires but otherwise its been very inexpensive to own. The front is definitely getting pretty ate up with rock chips which is to be expected with this many miles and the fact I drive 95% of the time on the highway. Lifetime average MPG is 23.8 but its been improving as I finally learned to just slow down haha! I'm pretty regularly 25-27 with some 28's sprinkled in there. Where I buy the fuel seems to make a big difference too. I had planned on keeping it to 200 and then doing something else but I'll try to get another year or two out of it unless things start going downhill quickly. I'm still on the original brakes and the interior is holding up nicely. Most people are very surprised how many miles are on it when they see it but I keep it really clean so it always looks good. It still drives very tight and the suspension isn't showing signs of needing replaced either. Windshields seem to be a consumable item on these and I'm due for another one unfortunately. Anyways, just wanted to give an up date and post up if you guys have any questions.

I removed my factory rails and installed Thule tracks myself. Its lower profile, has a greater load rating, and looks cooler, but deff NOT worth it. My van is the passenger version with rear curtain airbags so between the interior removal, drilling new mounting holes, and assembly, it took a solid 3 days.

"I'm still on the original brakes" ....dang..had to do the rears on mine at 32k

@windguy Thanks so much for those two links! That's definitely more of what I'm looking for in terms of price. We have two SUPs: an 11' and a 10'6" that we'd stack on top of each other. You're right, I should take air lift into consideration. Is that why you're called "WindGuy"? ? I'd also like to take a Skybox on and off, depending on the trip, but I'm guessing the lift would be less of a concern with the Skybox than with the SUPs. I have a passenger wagon, so the interior lining covers the entire ceiling all the way to the rear liftgate, plus it has airbags to worry about. I e-mailed the seller and he said it'd be easy to install from the outside. This was our e-mail exchange: Q: I have a 2019 Transit Connect XLT passenger wagon. Would I need to pull out the interior fabric to install the this roof rail hardware? Or can it be installed from the exterior alone? A: hello, you will mount from the outside. you do not remove the flooring. extremely easy. I'm assuming "flooring" is a language thing, and he meant lining. Looking at their instructions, it looks like item #14 goes into the mounting hole and has that long bar to grab onto something so you can tighten from the outside? Am I reading that right? I'm not sure bolt #12 for the middle and back can grab onto something in the same way: I'm going to visit a local shop tomorrow named Rack N' Road that specializes in these type of installations, and ask for their advice between the CAN AUTO vs Yakima options. I have to say I like the way the elevated racks look more than the flush ones, but I'm willing to go with the most reliable option. Besides, I'd rather pay them to do the installation than botch it up myself. @emassa15 That looks really good! Why did you need to drill new mounting holes? I thought all TCs already come with 5 holes on each side. I'm definitely trying to avoid going under the headliner, I'm even willing to go with the fixed-position cross-bars just to avoid dealing with that mess.

The 5ft long rails are $159 list. A few times a year both Yakima and Thule have 20% off sales. Otherwise it's price fixed at list price. There are lower cost options too other than those companies. https://www.rackattack.com/base-roof-rack-systems/permanent-custom-mount-roof-rack-systems/yakima-60-inch-track-with-bolts/ https://www.etrailer.com/Roof-Rack/Yakima/Y01135.html Do you have a cargo van or wagon model? I would research how those CAN AUTO tracks installs and what your options are for cross bars. I wouldn't worry too much about load rating for a SUP but more about the lift forces when you get air under that at highway speeds. That could be significant say compared to a ladder. What length is your SUP? Someone on this forum a long time ago posted about mounting SUP's on their roof rack. You'll have to search for that post.

I've got a 2010 with a Rocketbox on top. Just had to drill the holes for the mounts a little back so it doesn't overhang the windshield. The extra storage is amazing, but it's way up there! I have to open the side door and step up on the doorsill to reach inside of it.

Ursa Minor Vehicles dot com

I have had my Yakima box for about 15 yrs and love it.I'm not sure what model as the side decals have disappeared.Aprox dimensions are 90 in long and 15 in high at highest point. We use it for camping,first on a Subaru Forester and now on a 2016 TC LWB.My racks are adjustable and currently set at 36 in I have barn doors so I don't know if liftgate models would be a problem. I can mount it by my self because I have built a storage rack on my garage wall that is head height.It is very awkward to lift off the ground by one person . It is best for lighter soft items,bedding,tarps,duffel bags etc.It is very slippery inside so use care with single items and hard partial loads.I believe there are tie down points inside but have never used them. It opens from either side and the locks work well.Order extra keys.Never had anything get wet in probably 10,000 mi. The only downside is the height .I am 5'8" and have to toss things up and then stand inside to arrange them with one hand. Avoid parking garages and low limbs,I have had a few close calls.Fortunately just scratches