Leaderboard

The SMM uses the term "Approach Light" per below (STEP 1) If the vehicle was built on or before 11-Dec-2016, reprogram the BCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 103.05 and higher. (STEP 2) For all vehicles, access the BCM Configuration Parameters. Select Module Programming, Programmable Parameters, Personality, Approach Light. Choose Disabled and follow the screen prompts to completion. The print out the dealer gave me for what my van BCM shows: Approach Light - (BdyCM) = Disabled I wish I better understood how this all works. I just have bits and pieces of info. It would be cool to be able to use the Ford IDS Software at a dealer and see what is going on. Interesting link below for Ford Diagnostic Software https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/VDIRS/wds/vcm_retail_renewal_Latest.asp

For what it's worth, this is the ELM that I bought and have used with Forscan & Focccus. The changes I tried to make saved successfully, but didn't actually work for me - I reverted to OEM config until I can get the BCM updated with latest code so I can try my configuration changes again and that will include dark mode. It also cleared DTC's successfully using Forscan.

Pretty good likeness.......but I'm a little too old for tank tops anymore.

I catch at least 10 per year on the backside. Sometimes they get past me though. Good catch

There are few threads regarding sound proofing. Use the search option. Try this one http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/6555-sound-deadening-solution-for-noisy-vans/?tab=comments&_fromLogin=1 I have a 2015 cargo van and have bought sound proofing material to be installed this spring. Needs to be warm outside >53deg F. Most of the major sound proofing suppliers recommend two layers of material, a sound deadener material and then a thermal/sound mat over that. I first bought a box of Noico 80mil but felt it was too heavy to put on the ceiling so I plan to use that for the floor area only and perhaps the rear side panels in the back. I then bought a box of Kilmat 50mil for the ceiling, sliding door and rear barn doors. It's 1/2 the weight of the Noice 80mil. Both distributed by the same company through Amazon and Noico products are made in the Republic of Russia. Seriously. I never bought anything made in Russia. I also bought two boxes of the Noico 150mil mat liner to cover all areas with sound proofing plus the required roller for the sound proofing install. About $243 for all materials. For short drives by myself the road noise isn't an issue as I just turn up the radio. But for extended road trips with my wife it's very noticeable and somewhat annoying. Looking forward to this project. I'll provide updates after I do the install.

This one gets decent reviews...still researching if it will work on a 16 gen2 TC. https://www.amazon.com/OHP-ELMconfig-compatible-interface-diagnostics/dp/B01F0GVBWY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Lack of a physical lock button/switch on the inside of the doors is a REALLY stupid decision on Ford's part but there's a real pain in the ass work-around for it. Every door, on the edge of the door where it shuts into the jamb opposite the hinges, has a lock cylinder that fits the key. So you have to open each door, manually rotate the lock cylinder with the key, then shut each door. However, there may be a decently large gotcha. The wording in the manual where it talks about this sucks. I think the manual is saying that, if you restore electrical power, the power actuators are now disconnected from the mechanical portion of the lock. That means you'll have to open the driver's side door with the key (since it's the only one with a lock cylinder on the outside), then crawl through the car opening each door from the inside (remember that the sliding doors and rear barn doors will require TWO pulls before they open), then flip the lock cylinder in the door edge back the other way to "reconnect" the mechanical portion of the lock to the electrical portion of the lock. I'm not sure that's what the manual is trying to say though. I need to go test this on my van before the day I have to do it, come to think of it.

This is exactly how I do it.

I like my jack personally. It has the stands built in.

.

It is two years since the last post in this topic and my fear is that I am resurrecting a discussion which was put to rest long ago. I hope that is not the case. I have two white TCs one from 2011 and the other from 2012. I bought both used. The 2011 needed wheel bearings when I bought it. The 2012 is quiet now, but I anticipate it will need bearings within a year. I have read much about the nature of the failure of these bearings. I have read three failure sources and every one of them makes some sense: 1. Insufficient lubricant in bearings or a fault in the application of lubricant during the manufacturing process. (Only partially likely since replacement bearings apparently last no longer than OEM) 2. Water induced failure. (Only partially likely since the Ford Focus does not seem to suffer from the same weakness.) 3. Bearings too light for the load. (Makes sense) Parenthetically, I am thinking about getting a pair of knuckles with new bearings already pressed in to use as spares. I can swap out the knuckles in my garage but I don't have a press to put the bearings in. I would only do that if I could get them cheap. But here is a thought: The bearing is the first solid link between the road and the chassis. That means that bumps, ruts, and roughness in the road is first absorbed by the tires and wheels and then by the wheel bearing. The design of the suspension borrowed from the Focus including to a large extent the wheel and tire size yet the TC weighs 400 to 600 pounds more. If the mass of everything between the bearing and the road were increased, then that mass would resist movement and would absorb more of the roughness of the road. By the time the forces were applied to the wheel bearing, they would be attenuated by the additional absorption of the wheel and tire. This puts less stress on the bearing and might increase the life of the bearings. My thought is to increase the mass of the wheel and tire by moving to a slightly larger wheel and tire. I am thinking of a tire which is not taller but just wider than the OEM. Mine are 205s and I am thinking of going to a 225. I would also move to an inexpensive chromed steel wheel what would replace the OEM wheel and wheel cover. The slightly wider tire might also improve handling of the van. So....Two questions: 1. Does my logic make sense? (I am a career Navy electronic technician and officer and a retired university professor of electrical engineering. I am not dumb but I am no physicist) 2. On the 2010-2013 TC, how wide can you make the tires without having them interfere with other components under the truck...(Wheel wells, frame, and other "stuff")?

Hello again, I’ve promised to make a post about Ford Transit Connect blueprints here. So that's it. We at Outlines are focused on vehicle blueprints producing. These blueprints are acceptable for wrap, signwriting, vinyl graphics; for 3D modelling and maybe also for t-shirt design^^. Each template is scalable vector file (PDF, AI etc) with editable separate parts and layers. I hope it could be useful for you, mates. That what I have at the moment: Ford Transit Connect Blueprints and Drawings If you need to request any other versions or vehicles please use Request page on the website. We could produce any blueprint in one or few days. Feel free to ask me any questions. Thank you. Best wishes, Eli Afan

Your TC must have the one touch window function on every window for the global open or close to work. I think global open is factory programmed on properly equipped vehicles