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We have 1500 miles on our new Transit. After a 400 mile trip there was a hot smell when I exited the Transit. Next time we drove it maybe 30 miles in city traffic again the smell. Back wheel was very hot to the touch. Checked parking brake before driving it again. Took it back to the dealer and was told there is wear on the brakes. They are saying due to riding the brake while driving or driving in hilly area and using the brakes excessively going down hill. Neither of these cases are what is happening with the Transit. Will this mean they will not honor the warranty? This is almost making me not like Ford or my Transit. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

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There is a TSB on rear brake drums. I had a customer bring his in with a clunking sound while stopping with a firm [not panic] stop. The rear drums had to be replaced as they were slightly out of round [not a safety issue as brakes work fine]. Yours could be a more severe problem related to it. I have over 20,000 miles on mine and no brake issues at all.

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I have 1200 miles on a wagon and the brakes do blow dust like crazy..

i will change them out once i get some more miles on

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I'm at around 6k and my brakes are squealing like crazy. Makes it tough to drive with the windows down but at least I know pedestrians hear me coming...

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I'm at around 6k and my brakes are squealing like crazy. Makes it tough to drive with the windows down but at least I know pedestrians hear me coming...

check your pads, my last set lasted me 8,300 miles

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check your pads, my last set lasted me 8,300 miles

did you put stock pads back on or move into the after market ?

and is this mostly city or hiway driving

Edited by Flying Media

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did you put stock pads back on or move into the after market ?

and is this mostly city or hiway driving

original set last me 11k miles

replaced them with ford factory pads, as i couldn't find other brands at the time, these are nearly gone at 8300 miles

now i purchased hawk hps pads from tire rack, these should last longer

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AFTER READING ABOUT MANY OF YOU EXPERIENCING PREMATURE BRAKE WEAR, AND THE CONSTANT OVERABUNDANCE OF BRAKE DUST ON MY WHEELS, I ORDERED A SET OF CERAMIC PADS FROM APEX. I PULLED THE WHEELS, INSPECTED AND CHANGED THE PADS. THEY WERE ONLY WORN ABOUT 10-15% ( I DRIVE LONGER DISTANCES) AT 10000 MILES. I PUT THE CERAMIC PADS ON HOPEFULLY TO ELEVIATE THE OVER DUSTING. I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED ABOUT DUST AND WEAR. THE TRICK TO THE ANTI VIBRATION SPRING IS TO PUT THE ONE SIDE IN AND GRAB THE OTHER END WITH A SMALL VISEGRIP, SLIGHTLY TWIST AND TAP THE WIRE END INTO THE SECOND HOLE.

WOODY

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AFTER READING ABOUT MANY OF YOU EXPERIENCING PREMATURE BRAKE WEAR, AND THE CONSTANT OVERABUNDANCE OF BRAKE DUST ON MY WHEELS, I ORDERED A SET OF CERAMIC PADS FROM APEX. I PULLED THE WHEELS, INSPECTED AND CHANGED THE PADS. THEY WERE ONLY WORN ABOUT 10-15% ( I DRIVE LONGER DISTANCES) AT 10000 MILES. I PUT THE CERAMIC PADS ON HOPEFULLY TO ELEVIATE THE OVER DUSTING. I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED ABOUT DUST AND WEAR. THE TRICK TO THE ANTI VIBRATION SPRING IS TO PUT THE ONE SIDE IN AND GRAB THE OTHER END WITH A SMALL VISEGRIP, SLIGHTLY TWIST AND TAP THE WIRE END INTO THE SECOND HOLE.

WOODY

anybody care to give a brake wear up date ?

i am at 5300 miles mostly hiway and the dust has slowed down

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anybody care to give a brake wear up date ?

i am at 5300 miles mostly hiway and the dust has slowed down

THE CERAMIC PADS HAVE CUT THE DUST DOWN CONSIDERABLY.

WOODY

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Have 12000 on my Transit. Grinding noise coming from rear brakes. Took one wheel off, and looks like pad is low, lots of shavings in drum. I do mostly highway driving. 20,000 miles per year. Taking it in to dealer next week to have checked

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Today, I installed new Rabestos premium rotors, EBC Greenstuff pads, and Motul 5.1 brake fluid. It is too soon to determine just how good they are. I need about 500 miles to bed them in. One thing that I do have to say tho is a big THANK YOU to JWWOODY. I never could have installed that anti-vibration spring without your hint and taking the wheel off the other side to see exactly how the factory did it.

BTW, this youtube vid shows an great way to remove a stuck rotor. I tried everything on my old rotor. I spent hours burning, banging with a sledge and spraying p-oil. This method had the rotor off in mere seconds.

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I just added Speed Bleeders to the front calipers of my TC. For others who would like to add them, the actual size is M8 X 1.25. The Speed Bleeder part number is SB8125LL-SS. These are the stainless steel versions. Speed bleeders are also available in mild steel, but why borther?

They work as advertised. Now, only one person, me, is needed to bleed, or flush my brakes.

If you want a pair, go to www.speedbleeder.com, or call 1-815-736-6296. Edlebrock also markets them. I am not familiar with their product line, or part numbers, but you can look at their website too. Amazon.com sells them as well.

I'll share the information for the rear brake cylinders on this page shortly.

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OK, it has been about a year with the EBC Greensuff brake pads. About 5,500 mostly highway miles. The brake pads are worn out! Total junk. None of the stopping confidence that you get with EBC Redstuff brakes. None of the lifespan either. Unfortunately, EBC only offers Greenstuff for the TC.

I emailed EBC asking if they will soon provide Redstuff pads for the TC. No reply from them. So much for customer support.

I decided to move on to Hawk HPS brake pads. I am expecting better stops and a longer lifespan from the Hawk pads.

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EBC emailed me back. They have no plans to make Redstuff pads for TC. Meanwhile, the new Hawk pads are a big improvement over OEM, or EBC Greenstuff.

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Just replaced my front pads at 41,000 and change. Mostly highway driving with a moderate load! I thought only Government Motors half tons got brake wear that poor! Pads were DONE- less than 1/32 left Got lucky and caught it in time!

Dave

Edited by Dave H

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I'm at 55k on my 2014 and had the right rear go to the rotor. left side was just starting to hit the rotor. I'm used to astros going allot longer so I didn't even think to check them until it was too late. I put the premium ceramic pads and premium rotors on from napa (they were the only thing I could get in a huryy) so we will see....

I do allot of city driving and highway but 55k seems too soon to me at least it wasn't 8 or 6k like some of you guys!

Oh and how did you guys compress the back caliper? I bought the tool from autozone but it almost didn't fit.

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My Mk1's rear drum brakes have been a weak spot, requiring service way too often, front disks are okay.

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i got  a 2014 connect and the wheels are black within a week because of brake dust, i changed the disc and pads but i noticed the sliding pins that hold the calipers on where dry as hell so i made sure i used copper grease on all the pins.

basically when dry there is still contact on the pads causing excess dust, basically a tiny bind on the discs,its only a 2 year old van and ford never grease anything

once i had done all the replacements and everything greased up the brakes are now spot on and brake dust is minimal because the when braking and releasing the pins now slide back enough not to contact the pads

saving money in the future on premature brake and disc wear.

and to top it off i painted the calipers silver and they look brand new.

 

Edited by Erbs

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On 9/24/2016 at 2:31 AM, Erbs said:

 i painted the calipers silver and they look brand new.

 

I'm glad that worked out for you.  I would suggest actually using new parts, if there is wear.  These are being sold on amazon.com.

MGP Caliper Covers 10007SFRDYL Yellow Caliper Cover (Set of 4, Engraved Front and Rear: Oval logo/Ford, Yellow powder coat finish, black characters)

 

 
 
 

Price: $199.00 & FREE Shipping

61vYi8i8XfL._SL1500_.jpg61TIvyr-tzL._SL1500_.jpg

 

In the past, I've always tried to source drilled and slotted rotors, plus ceramic pads.  Some manufacturers will sell a "kit" that is make & model specific.  But of course, you can't always get high end parts, when you're not driving a high end car.  A glance at the Summit Racing website shows that there are drilled and slotted rotors available.

 

sph-128-02006cl.jpg?rep=Truesph-126-02000sl_xl.jpg?rep=True

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Keep an eye out when you get a warning about brake wear from you mechanic. I had my 2013 Transit inspected when I bought it at 45,000 and also at 53,000. (Different shop.) Both told me that the rear brakes were starting to go, but I’m pretty sure that neither one actually looked at the parts—is this something that would show up on the OBD? Is there something else I don’t know about the brake assembely that could have caused him to recommend replacement?

 

I took the drums off of both rear wheels last month, planning to do the replacement myself,, and I had tons of pad left—they looked closer to new than used. (Currently around 54,000 mostly highway driving with light loads.) I checked the discs too, and those will definitely need replacement before 60,000. But what I don’t understand is why both mechanics said to replace the ones in back.

 

Definitely keep an eye on the brakes if you own one of these vans, it looks like it’s a known issue, but also take what you hear with a grain of salt.

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Posted (edited)

The only way to really check Drum Brakes is to pull the wheels and drums.  A lot of shops  do not seem to want to pull the  drums for just an inspection.

The other thing to check when the Drums are off is the adjusters .  Make sure they are operating , this will assure that all the brakes on the TC are doing there job.

Edited by G B L

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I thought all drums had inspection holes. Never thought of checking mine on the Connect.

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