Double Nickels

Generic hitch receiver. Iron worker with a welder. Attach to front crash bar. Cut plastic bumper fascia as needed.

The interior panel on the lift gate pops off with trim removal tools. You will see the wiring harness and motor assembly in plain view.

Tanner, how about helping out with some of the troubleshooting? None of us are enthused when there's a problem. You could be our front line guy at the dealership level. You can get technical support. You could get updated service bulletins. Nobody wants you to give up pricing and markup strategy. But if a forum member is having an issue with something, you could ask your techs.

From what I remember, fuel cutoff occurs if the vehicle experiences heavy impact or rollover. Although it's not suppose to, with some older cars, towing raised the car to enough of an angle to cut off the fuel. I would leave it, and engineer shelving around it.

Transit Connect vans are great for people who just don't need a full size van. I thought about removing the 3rd row. But then I started driving with the middle row down. Passengers could ride in the 3rd row, with a lot of space for gear in the middle. I sat back there myself. It was kind of nice to have the cooler in front of me, and be able to drink beer behind the tinted windows. The last row of seats has a power point for charging the phone. And the parents can't see everything you are doing back there.

On a cargo van, without the headliner, you could use basic nuts, bolts, and washers. You could find rubber washers to help seal out water. Silicone works well. From what I remember, the holes under the black plugs are big enough for 1/4" bolts. I would want at least 3/8" bolts. When you start thinking about how much weight may end up on the roof, I may want 1/2" bolts. If you decide to use rivet nuts, you will have to drill those holes out to a larger size. I could be wrong, but 1 or 2 more lengths across the width of the van may be even better. Overall, it's a good job.

It looks like you lost about 2" of ground clearance. I'm guessing that the underbody splash shields were removed. Did you have to take off parts of the plastic bumper fascia?

You are correct. All of those builds looked good until they stopped posting updates. I wonder how much money went into those projects.

10-8

3X drain and fill is the factory recommended service procedure. A single drain and fill is better than nothing. But I wouldn't do it. If my van is already raised on jackstands, and the skid plate is removed; there's no reason to only drain and fill once. Sure, you replace the fluid by 40% - 50%. But you don't have fresh fluid. You're going to do 1/3 of the job, so that you can drive with 50% - 60% contaminated fluid?

I didn't clear the transmission adaptive learning table. Because I bought the car new. I'm the only driver. Besides, it's adaptive. It will eventually learn your driving style.

@10,000 miles?

Which leads us to present VW. Is there 1 car on the market which is politically correct? And if there is, why aren't you driving it?

I'm not buying a Japanese car. They were Hitler's buddies and they bombed Pearl Harbor. I'm not buying Korean, because I don't trust anybody who rides a unicorn. I don't like how Macron, Trudeau, Johnson, and Princess Anne were making fun of our President. Now I can't buy Ford or Chevy.

Nope. He posted his own.

I got an Ikea futon into mine. I measured the van and the box to make sure that it would fit.

1st check the fan fuse and relay. Then check the connection. Is the harness burnt out of corroded? The fans usually don't fail. Connect it to 12v power, and it should turn right on. Alternative option, not a good option, is bypass the car's computer by installing an aftermarket fan control.

The car is already on the lift. That's advantage you don't have at home. A shop has other advantages. I have replaced radiators. I have seen shops do it. On some cars, it's easier to hook up a recovery machine, drain the A.C. chemical, then disconnect and remove the radiator and condenser as a single unit. Once out of the car, it's simple to transfer the condenser onto the new radiator, and drop it all back in. It sounds like more work, but actually cuts down on time and effort. Advantage is a fully charged A.C. system. On small cars with limited space, you don't always have the access to reach and manipulate the clips holding the condenser to the radiator.

If you get the transmission with gear ratios for a Focus, because it cost less, it will not work. You must have the correct gear ratio. Unfortunately, you will have to pay a little more for the correct unit. for some of us, this is a job for a shop. Not everyone has the lift, tools, training, and experience. Can you save a few dollars doing it yourself?

Nothing is too good for him. Channel 5 spares no expenses for his comfort.

Is this a 1st generation Transit Connect? KPIX is channel 5 in San Francisco. This reporter is jumping into action....after his cameraman set up the right shot.

You have options........

Remanufactured at the factory, with a warranty, is almost always better than a rebuild kit. Worst case scenario is a mechanic who wants you to pay him to rebuild the transmission, he's not that good, and you get overcharged. Let's assume that your mechanic is good, but he does not build these transmissions every day. It may be that why I he has installed rebuild kits in plenty of cars, he's never rebuilt your transmission. And if he's not a transmission specialist, then reconsider.

Now we will be short on meat.

I don't know if those are meant to be reused. If anyone does reuse them, I suggest a ring of silicone.