Double Nickels

Doesn't look like anyone has explored the topic further. This may be possible via FORScan. But it doesn't look like there's been any interest.

As I am frugal, I browsed tires on eBay. Not used. Just new tires. Great prices if you don't mind a 16 year old tire. It won't matter when the tread splits on the freeway, you get a blowout.......Car manufacturers say that tires are good for 6 years. Tire manufacturers say 10 years. This tire was manufactured during the 24th week in 2003.

This may have been discussed on another thread. Does everyone use the door sticker? OEM tire sidewall says 51 PSI. That's the maximum cold PSI. Door sticker recommends cold PSI as 41 & 44. After driving around all day, with hot PSI, I topped off at 51, and left 1 tire alone. The next morning, I checked cold PSI, and it was as I guessed, below 51. Then I checked again later in the day, where hot PSI was about 51. Then I stopped off the last tire at 51 while hot. Cold PSI in the morning is about 46. I am okay with that.

I typically cruise @ 80 MPH, on Interstate 5. Not sure about pushing it much more than that.

Wow. It's already chilly. 8°. It's about 24° here.

Those look like generic jumpseats that you can install any way you want. A Google search for "jumpseats" will give you more options. I recall seeing a thread where a guy installed a single seat behind the passenger seat. I think he also cut a hole in the floor board.

I thought all cars are sold with the spare. If you have the correct part, it should fit.

You won't be able to mount a 2nd spare under the van. You will either carry it inside, or mount it on the roof. It's too much weight on the rear door hinges. Look for something like this. Make sure that it will accept the bolt pattern.

In USA, backup cameras are now the law. A safety requirement. Every car must have it.

Not me. I would start looking into a Lemon Law lawyer. They took your money. You got an item which does not perform as promised.

A 10 year old used van......tranny was probably neglected. Someone competent should look it over. Believe it or not, I had a car with similar symptoms.......it was a loose wiring harness. Transmission tech got it on a lift, and found it right away. He showed me, snapped it back in snug, then laughed at me.

A lot of options via OBDII . Plenty of free and paid apps. Or you can use a Scan Gauge or scan tool. I am using Torque Pro. FORScan is better, but only for Ford. Torque Pro will work on other cars.

My eyes are not that good. I cannot see what other people need lab equipment to look at. Sniffing it just smells like oil. My nose isn't able to tell me if the oil is still good, or to what degree. I haven't tried the taste test yet. But cops on TV are always able to taste test white powder to see if it's Cocaine. I will have to dab a little oil off the dipstick onto my tongue to see what the level of purity is. Look under the oil cap for sludge. Some call it milkshake. The sludge is not seen on the dipstick. This is what happens when the car isn't driven. Condensation, evaporation, and oxidation. Although some people say that you still don't need to change the oil. Just drive it around for awhile to burn it off. The oil should still be fine for 10,000 miles. Mine still work. I've had the van for 36 months+. Maybe if you dab some pepper spray on them, your Rottweiler will stop using them as a chew toy.

Sounds like a business opportunity. mrtn can acquire, then facilitate shipping. But what is it worth? Would you pay a reasonable mark up plus shipping? I recall how people in Japan did that with JDM parts. Those people thought it was worth it to get parts not available in the USA.

And after all day of driving in stop and go, on hills, my temperatures are still in the same range. On my van, with my drive style, fluid temperatures maintain consistently whether the ambient air is in the 50s, or over 100.

Of course, the real question is, do you trust the computer algorithm? Some people say that once you add oil from the bottle, even if you're not driving it, the oil oxidizes. In a calendar year, the oil and/or additive pack has degraded. This is why oil labels say 1 year. This is why the computer will signal you in 1 year. Some people believe that the oil they are using will not have that problem. A lot of people feel that certain higher prices motor oils are better and will not degrade. You can send in an oil sample for analysis. I usually buy motor oil based on what I can buy cheap. And I have gone over 1 year between oil changes. The car did not blow up while driving on old oil. But that doesn't mean I did the right thing. I can't measure if the old oil was oxidized, or if any damage was done.

Smart. A lot of people say that you don't warm up modern cars. The school of thought is that the warm up is leftover from the carburetor days. I'm with you. Warm up before driving.

Very true. Today was much cooler. I was in stop and go. Steep hills in The City.

I hope that roadway is perfectly paved, dry, and clean. At those speeds, any uneven grade, water, or random debris could be bad news.

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Ambient air in the 70s, and temperature range is consistent. It seems like the fan turns on when coolant reaches 212F, or 100C. With my driving, movement and airflow reduces coolant temperature.

I meant to post screenshots of the PID formulas in case anyone needs to know.

I tried to look it up. Apparently, the speed limit cannot be removed with FORScan. As I recall, that was available on my old Mustang with SCT.

104 today. Similar temperature range. Heats up a little in stop and go. Airflow from driving 30 mph or more, brings the temps down.