Double Nickels

Mine was shattered. A piece of gravel or rock chip of some sort. I'm lucky that I had tint film holding it all together. The whole piece of glass is "spiderwebbed". Safelite's online quote was $100 - $200 higher than every local shop. And my deductible is so high, that I will have to pay for this myself.

Which model year? Which model? When there's a leak, you have fluids where it's not supposed to be wet. All sorts of electrical problems can result. Corrosion. A short. Not just a belt squealing. Remove the tire. Remove the brakes. Remove the wheel well lining. Get some photos. Let's see what it looks like.

I always keep 1 eye open for good prices on oil. This is the most outrageous advertising claim I have ever seen. Who is will to try using this 500,000 miles, or 15 years? How? How can that possibly work? What kind of miracle snake oil is in that bottle?

It's a part of the algorithm of the intelligent oil life monitor. Even if you barely drive it, the car's computer wants you to change the oil after a year. Maybe the oil isn't really burnt or contaminated. The additive package has not been depleted. You still have condensation. A little water sludge, which probably would have burnt off if you were driving the car more. I just ordered some oil on Amazon. A 6 gallon box. Only $60. What did it cost them to ship a 6 gallon box of oil, and the customer gets free shipping?

Imagine all of the spare parts you could get from that place.

You will rarely be on a perfectly level surface. But the grade on your driveway will not give you a good dipstick reading. The dipstick allows for a wide margin. On a lot of cars. 1 quart. Don't worry too much. As long as you are not consistently below the low range. On some cars, like Mercedes, Subaru, Hyundai, and 1970's era Fords, burning oil was a real problem. On some modern Fords, burning oil is still a real problem. I haven't heard about it with the 2.5 liter engine. Oil leaking is not a known issue either. Unless a lube shop did something wrong. Yes. Do check your oil. Do it as much as you need to, to feel comfortable. A dipstick is not a precision measuring device. It's still good enough for you to see how dirty the oil looks. Not that the naked eye is really able to see how contaminated the oil is. You can always hold it to your nose to check if the oil smells bad or burnt. Just don't taste test it.

I thought that something like that, in a modern car, could be turned on or off via the body control module. It can be done with a SPST relay. Tap a "key on" circuit for the coil to trigger the relay. Cut the 12v power line. Use the fuse end for common. Use the power port end for normally open. When the ignition is turned, the relay will send power to the power port.

Assuming that someone does not have symptoms at the moment, it does not mean that you won't have problems later. If defective sealant was used, the odds are, that sooner or later you will have a problem with it. I'm not an expert. But I would think that the sealant used to fix the vans, is not defective. At least not from the same batch that they used in Spain where the vans were assembled. To be on the safe side, I brought my van in. The dealership used a glass contractor. It wasn't half a day. Just like when a glass shop replaces a broken windshield, it does not take that long. The actual job of removing the windshield, and remounting it, was less than an hour. The dealership wanted the van to sit there overnight, so that the seal could cure. The next day, they sprayed it with a hose to test it. Two of the lowest paid "technicians" got that job. I stood there with the service adviser, and we watched. One guy got into the van and sat there. The other guy sprayed it for about 10 minutes. No leaks. So far, so good. I expect that to be the end of it. If done correctly, that sealant should be good for at least the next 10 years. By which time, I may no longer even own the van. If you have a recall notice, get it fixed. It's free. You don't want to have a leak 4 or 9 years from now, and go searching around the whole house looking for that letter.

I may have to buy a Ford Maverick.

It was just about time. The OEM tires were worn. My van only drives on city streets, paved roads, and highways. No off road, dirt trail, or sand, mud, snow, etc. No high speed cornering, or sudden stopping. No heavy loads. My driving does not require a performance tire. I just needed an inexpensive set of tires to drive around town and circle the mall parking lot. I tried to balance pricing, with availability. I am not driving an hour to save $10. The tires were in stock - as opposed to some competitors who advertised tires that were not in stock. Nationwide chain, so if I am farther from home, I can still get a flat repaired under warranty. I know. A lot of you guys prefer "better" tires. I get that. For me, and the way I drive, I don't need anything that good. As long as the tread holds up for the remainder of the warranty, I am okay. My local retail outlet of America's Tire / Discount Tire / Tire Rack had Sentury. For my use, it works fine. I can't tell the difference when I'm out running errands.

This is a rare recall. Different Ford cars and trucks have had leaks for years. And they never offered a fix. People complain about water pooling on the floor or even dripping on their head. I had a Ford that when it rained, the headliner was wet. Rain or water from a car wash. Eventually, the moisture in the headliner began rusting the car from under the roof. I had another Ford that the auto glass was always wet on the inside of the car.

Here in The US, we can't get the 3 seat configuration. Or at least it's not in my area. I have never seen it. If the parts were available, I would install it.

Maybe the cylinder head temperature sensor. But the sensor is working if you are able to read it.

Owners manual does not specify. Fill, siphon water back out, and measure.

Take pics of all the steps, and how much stuff you have to remove to get the battery out.

Very sad events

I hope that she is safe

The spare tire does not have a TPMS sensor.

Do French cars still have yellow headlights?

Not all catalytic converter are the same. Some have more platinum, rhodium, and palladium. Thieves know this. That's why only certain cars targeted.

I don't recommend it, but you could start with the plugs. At least change them.

That won't work. Thieves will still cut it off. CHP needs to track the thieves to the buyer. Then watch the buyer to see who he buys from. Then you bust the whole lot of them. Thieves go after certain cars. Not any car at random. Commercial trucks are usually targeted for contents. Tools. Copper pipe. Copper wire. Ladders. They usually look for a tradesman, with a service vehicle, loaded down with goodies. Transit Connects are usually targeted like commercial pickup trucks. Not for the cats. Nobody breaks into a car for the baby seats. Unfortunately, most public places are not safe. Don't leave anything in plain view. Don't leave valuables. In big cities, thieves are known to break autoglass as they go down a row of parked cars. It's a team sport. One guy goes down a row of cars, breaking every window. Then his friends follow, grabbing whatever they find. Open the glove box, look under the seats, take the change. Some cars have nothing taken, but the window still got broken.

https://owner.ford.com/support/how-tos/exterior/lights/how-to-turn-on-off-daytime-running-lights.html# https://owner.ford.com/support/how-tos/exterior/lights/how-to-turn-on-off-daytime-running-lights.html#

I see people driving with the lights. Not headlights. Just the small parking lamp. I don't know if they turned the light on or if it was automatic daytime running light.

Got.mine in the mail also. Look on the back of the notice. You could get reimbursement.