MLB

Thank you!

Had my interior panels off for running wires for tow hitch install and decided to try the sound deadener peel and stick panels talked about here and everywhere. Got the back and roof done but I can't figure out how to get the front door panels off. ?????

They sell everything you need including a wire cutting tool to cut the old adhesive on the panel. You still have to cut out the inner part of the steel where the window goes. The glass will cover the whole area but some will be over remaining metal on the door all around. That's where the adhesive goes. My tools and supplies from Van direct arrive today, but no window. ?

LOL< well you do what you do and i'll do what i do.

Many LED headlights are no improvement. Some are worse than stockers in my experience. Most arent' really worth the trouble, if there is a slight big more light it's usually a slight bit less light somewhere else.. Most don't aim properly and so throw too much light too high or too low. (LED bulbs without a proper (not oem generally) reflector aren't good. Do ANY after market LED bulbs have the federally mandated cut off so yoiu dont' blind oncoming traffic. In my town most seem to not LED headlights are designed specifically for that bulb design. Just general info not tc specific. so sorry if contradicted by other posts that are tc specific. didnt' read whole thread one other sometimes significant factor is sometimes you don't' much if any light low and out to the side. Leaves the side of the road very dark. Stock lights are supposed to light up very specifc areas to a minimum federal standard. LED have no such standards (maybe stockers?) and typically under light one or more of those areas. But certainly new and better stuff coming out all the time and I haven't touched anything new in a year.

test

My 16 rear defroster never worked. my 16 xlt has no mirror heaters but no defrost icons so i would guess you do. I'm thinking I read it was tied to the rear switch. Could be a blown fuse too since it heats it's a decent draw.

you see them around. They look horrrible. iT's harder than it looks and getting all the air bubbles out takes practice. I guess I should clarify, it's not that hard a job, but if you've never done it before it's hard to make it look like the shops do. I paid $69 for tinting the 2 larger front windows. Sun doens't come through the smaller ones, don't need them. They wanted another $60 to do those!

https://www.vanwindowsdirect.com/collections/ford-transit-connect-14-18/products/ama-passenger-side-sliding-door-solid-glass-window-ford-transit-connect-van-lwb-2014-2020 A bit tempted by the 1/2 opening option. But I'm not sure I want or need an opening window there. Mostly a work van for me. ALso $150 more and back ordered. So easy decision. Got the trim and urethane and cutting wire from them. Pick up a suction clamp thingee from Harbor Freight to hold the window for install. ($10) Watched a few vids, pretty straight forward. Just taking the time to do it right. "cut once....." - Yikes! LOL

You definitely need the spring properly seated.

worth a shot. How much of it did you use?

adding a couple of colors?

Uh huh.. I sold cars for 20 years and was sales manager at a Ziebart (rust proofing). Calling BS on anyone from any factory paying a penetration warranty on surface rust of any kind. Including very heavy. It's their OUT. Everyone in the world understands that bare metal rusts. (well most)

"Maxair" sounds like that might not be the standard size.

lol, what exactly do you think that little it of surface rust is going to penetrate in 2 years?

I find the seats much more comfortable aftering raising them a couple of inches. Changes the leg angle and then the height adjustment can make a nice difference without having your chest in the steering wheel. Search for 2" seat raise, 10 minute job. VERY happy. While the seat was unbolted I also figured out I'd only been using 1/2 the range of lumber support. That lever moves a wide arc! Between the 2 I'm very much more comfortable.

Gotcha!

You guys are high if you think you're going to make a warranty claim for surface rust on a 5 y/o van! ;0)

I think it only takes a little hole in the roof.

They are "cheese dick" (cheap) little pieces of plastic. Wouldn't knock yourself out to get them. A bolt and rubber washer be a lot tighter.

Oh heck no! Add quite a bit of wind noise on the highway. Worse with the cross pieces of course, but still there without. Deer whistles are pretty tiny.

The boards barely extend past the front and rear of the van. Very little lift.

That's where I've been stuck (haven't had time to work on it since). I can thread a wire from the battery through to that front fender, but how you get through to the cab to connect to the wire was the issue. Looks like that grommet is the way to skip that problem.

Nice! I'm looking at those, trying to decide if I want the opening window or just the solid piece. "On Sale" for $230ish now, with the sliding window another $150 I think. I don't really care about it opening, just want to see backing out of a parking space. And I like the look of the solid glass best. Are you happy with the opening window? Secure? Use it? Thanks! Great job!

Honestly I think the whole effort was a bit of a waste compared to most vehicles. (always do it). it's just so damn noisy on the highway (van) that you have to have the stereo blasting loud to drown it out. And my ears tire of that in an hour or so. For me the time delay (rear to front) is too long to sound good with the rears cranked up to hear them. And I lose a lot of treble over emphasizing rears. I don't have separate rear amp but both sets are amped equally.