MLB

Does NO one read the manual..........

I had the fronts put on last fall at 100,000ish miles. Replaced the 2 front half shafts at the same time and its like a new van.

Get the van washed after snow events with an underbody wash. My 2016 with 116,000 miles is clean as heck underneath. And I live in northern Indiana an hour from Michigan. (snow)

THey aren't "needed". They are there to keep the pad from rattling against the rotor. Use them if you have them. No biggie if they are gone.

Those are nastier than mine were for my first brake job at 9 years and 103,000 miles. Seriously.

That and cylinder deactivation. Both do not age well. Or cheaply.

not in the us apparently.

The plastics in the dash and elsewhere are frequently outgassing from heat of the sun. Find Windex very inadequate for inside windshield. The auto window sprays are very good, more alcohol I think, cuts the grime much easier.

I'm reading of places that don't want to work on TC's because they are a pain. Want to replace my front struts and places want 1000-1200 in labor to put on struts. Why? PITA apparently. 1 place didn't want to be bothered. I"ve head the same about some under the hood jobs. Just not enough room to make things easy apparently?? I remember reading similar things about the PT Cruiser, that's it styling/design made it very unfriendly to work on. I'm at 85k and need to decide if it's time to back out and move on. Loved it so far and next to zero issues.

I'm with you at 86,000 and still original. I"ve also had pads sitting here for 6 years after reading of guys complaining that they were replacing them at 30k miles yada yada...... obviously fully loaded with tools and lead feet.

All the cargo vans come into the country as passenger vans and then the seats and windows are taken out. Theres a bolted in piece under the rubber mat that goes where the seat mounts used to be.

How much will the trailer end up weighing is the pertinent question. You can add a surge brake to a trailer cheaply and easily.

Both sets look great at 67k miles. I bought front pads 5 years ago after some guys (hauling 2,000lbs of tools apparently) screamed about horrible brake wear! LOL

I've put the rears on but shops want $900-1000 to install front struts! WTF?

our linen service guys tall Transit 350 blew over on the highway during a storm a few years back. He hates it. I bought Bilstein shocks front/rear to put on my 16 and was stunned at the 1,000 quotes to install front strut cartidges!! WTF??? Is this thing a nightmare to work on? Ala PT CRuisers? Not a lot of room in under the hood. ???? 65k on mine and i'm wondering if I want to keep it long term. Nice to hear of your good record. Another guy here with 300k or close. 2.5?? Mines been flawless and I love the little thing. But it's also worth 20k. Hmmmmm

My 2.5 16 has 65k on it and has never needed a thing. You can fix 2 big problems for 2500 and you aren't likely to have more than 1 in 3 years. Pass

autotrader.com and cargurus.com

Found a local glass shop that installed it for $150. Happy

I bought 2 different tips. One is an exact match and the other is a little bit longer. I snipped the extra off and it fits and shoots water just fine. Problem is I can't get it to hit the window! I've messed with the tip position endlessly, it's the same angle as the other side that works fine. Spray goes too straight up versus angling enough to hit the window. I'lve cut one shorter to sit slightly closer to the window but that doens't fix it either. Annoying.

Been on this for about an hour. I've broken the wire 3 times and many time more than that had the ends pull out. The junk handles from Van Windows Direct do NOT contain the wire ends, probably because the junk threads won't screw down enough to tighten around the wire. Real junk and annoying as hell ? Probably going to have to take it to a shop.

There is no cutting of metal. Despite threads and videos showing them sawing the panel out, NOT what you do on the 2014+. As noted above, you cut through the adhesive and remove the whole panel. The hole for the wndow is already there. I bought the misinformation and bought jig saw blades and almost bought a specialty metal cutting too. Also got moulding to cover the cut edge. Doh

\ Anything that sticks down lower than the bottom of the drain pan like that is subject to getting whacked by an object on the road or a high railroad track kind of situation. If that happens, you may or may not realize that all of your oil just got dumped. Couldn't get passed that. That DOES look about as protected as you get by that frame rail(?), but on the other cars i've owned it stuck down further than anything else around on the bottom. Went this way: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=asc_df_B0002SR7TC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312104220456&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11786479864811216725&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016355&hvtargid=pla-569065623780&psc=1 Your stock drain gasket will NEVER wear out. Every other oil change takes less than 5 minutes of my time. Removing the dipstick and inserting the tube, pumping 10 times to get vacuum. I come back in 15 minutes and its' sucked all the oil out. I get my funnel and dump in the new oil. They I reverse the valve on the pump and use it to send the old oil into the 5 qt jug I just emptied.

The van's ride is already pretty stiff and jiggly unladen. I don't want to add stiffer shocks to that. I just want the best handling I can get while maintaining the stock ride as much as possible. So I'll go with the B4's.

I paid 19k for my 2016 cargo brand new but leftover in 17. Those sound ridiculously over priced to me. (sticker was 26.4)