Fifty150

Laws are different everywhere. Where I live, a forward facing red light, flashing or steady, is a violation of the motor vehicle code. All forward facing lights must be white or yellow, with no more than 4 white lights illuminating the road. In a lot of places, red lights are for police, fire, ambulance.......

TPMS sensors are not built to be serviceable. There's no battery door. You can take them apart. They use those small batteries you find in watches and remote key fobs. You change the battery. Then you have to glue them back together, and hope it works. We'll start with the fact that most people do not have the machines to take a tire off a wheel, remount and balance the wheel. So that's already impractical. Assuming that you were able to take the TPMS sensor apart, change the battery because you just happen to have the correct battery handy, and reassemble the unit.......you still have to mount and balance the tire. Now what? It's back on your car, and you try to program it......what if it doesn't work? What if you damaged the unit while trying to change the battery,? At the end of the day, you might as well pay to have new sensors installed when your sensors stop working. It's just more practical.

I have done it. All 3 seats in the middle row have anchors for the child seats. After you anchor the seats, you can still loop the seat belts through the back of the car seat. The 2nd row also has airbags. Your kids will be safe by US government standards. I have also placed car seats in the 3rd row. I anchored the seats to the D-rings behind the seat, and looped the seatbelt through the back of the car seat. Yes, 5 kids in car seats. None of the children were mine. But we got where we were going.

Where did you mount the switch?

To the best of my memory, the dome lights are small wedge lights.

I wonder what kind of magnet those tire shop guys use. I've never tried myself. For fear of looking like an idiot, with a Mickey Mouse souvenir magnet from the refrigerator. I bought the off-brand counterfeit version of the tool. Mine looks like the little Ford tool, but cost less. It works just the same.

If there is no part number, make them order an entire wiper assembly.

You are not making a living with the TPMS tool. No need to spend a lot of money. These days, you can buy an inexpensive version of the tool online.

Did you get the part yesterday? It's frustrating to see the part everywhere online, but you need that part in your hand at that moment. In the old days, I would have taken what was left of the bolt after it was cut, and gone to different stores trying to match the thread & pitch. I feel your pain, trying to find a part on a Sunday.

Do the rear wipers work?

It could work. But you still have to consider whether your LED lamp is dimmable. Some lamps are. Some are not.

Over the years, I've bought 194 size lamps from different companies. Some were cheap, and worked fine. Others weren't so great. Years ago, LED could last forever, or fail, without any consistency. If they began to flicker and burn out, you just replaced them. Today, with better technology and build quality, I now expect the LED lamp to actually last. Flickering and burning out is not acceptable. I'm not sure what could be too bright, or not bright enough. You have to decide that for yourself. For my Transit Connect, these are the lamps I have installed. I like them. No flickering. None have burned out. I have tinted windows, and I can see very well. I used these. They were good. No issues. I tried red and white, and finally decided to stay with white.

If the manufacturer is still in business, they would be your best contact. Or try getting in touch with Ford. The current generation of Ford electric vehicles would be nothing like what was built 10 years ago.

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If you leave the door open, the parking lamps stay on. But they do go off. They don't stay on forever, right? So for those few minutes that the parking lamps stay on, your battery drains? It sounds like you should check your battery to see if it needs to be replaced. Or check your alternator to see if it's putting out enough of a charge. A 2011 is a 10 year old van. Perfectly reasonable to replace wear items with time.

Unless you run your own wire to the battery. Then install your own fuse box. Then you can add simple circuits for aftermarket upgrades.

Interesting. All of my lights, every light on the van, interior and exterior, is LED. No problem with my key fob.

Not Turkey? When did production begin ion Mexico?

Most likely place. The slot is probably empty. If all wiring is installed, then only a fuse is needed. You would be surprised at strange finds when it comes to what is built into the car. I've found live wires with harness plugs, which connected to nothing. As in the factory installs the same wires in every car, and then if the build is for a model which doesn't feature that option, then the preinstalled harness just connects to nothing. No harm. Even though the wire is live, nothing is connected. No load, no draw. Customer won't know since it's behind the dash.

But your owners manual will still tell you which fuse you can use, or a circuit you can tap into. Maybe if you look, the fuse slot is empty, and then all that you would have to do is insert a fuse. Or if there is an empty fuse slot, you can use it. See this post about adding a circuit to your fuse box. Worst case scenario is that you run a wire to the battery. If you do that, add a fuse box to the rear where the auxiliary junction box would have been. Then you can add all sorts of other upgrades.

Kind of hard to do that with an underbody splash shield. You would literally have to drive through about 12" of water. In which case, it would be obvious that the entire lower half of the engine was submerged in a foot of water. Not to mention what other problems you would have if you were in a foot of water. This is a really late reply. But in case anyone else gets a similar symptom, you can clear the adaptive learning table. Then drive the car and let the computer learn to shift to your drive style.

I did the same thing. Then changed them to white LED. I then stayed with white LED. While the red LED set the mood for hotboxing and backseat loving, I found that I could just see better with white.

Replace the OEM light bulb with a LED. It should not be a problem to operate LED lamps on the same circuit, since the LED load is significantly less. But to be safe, check your owners manual to see what size fuse is on that circuit, and figure out what your load is so that you don't have a fire.

You could have used a circuit tester to determine which wires were power and ground, then tapped into the wires.

I looked at that. Not a great idea if somebody wants to fold down the passenger seat. I don't see a reason not to mount it on the driver side. I see those gooseneck extensions in use on fleet vehicles. Some models are strong enough to hold laptop computers in place. I suspect that each brand is a little different, and that some are stronger than others.