Fifty150

Crutchfield will have a lot of that information. A lot of those aftermarket radios are sold with the camera, GPS, and WiFi. Everything will be included. You will get instructions for installing.

No. You will need the dash with the cutout for the screen. The center curved hump of the dashboard pulls out. Then there are bolts which hold the front of the dash that fits the radio. Then there are probably more bolts which hold the radio down. Remove the radio. That is the easy part. You may not have any of the correct harnesses. Or maybe not. I'm not really sure if all of the radio harnesses are the same. With luck, the van's security system is not integrated with the radio head unit, and you can still start and drive the van without the radio. But you'll need to remove the OEM radio, to see what it looks like behind the dash. Then source whatever it is that you want, and see if you have the correct wire harnesses. The radio is connected to a computer in the car. There will be some programming involved. It works with the factory camera. But this will not be simple. It's not like an aftermarket camera installation. The camera is not a video cable and power wire, running to the stereo. The camera goes to one of the computers in your car. The computer sends the image to the screen.

I got a mattress from Ikea. For me, it was priced right. I just lay it down in the back, then pack my stuff into the van. When I get to camp, I can pull out my camp gear, and there's my bed. I bought the Minnesund Twin. It was good enough for me. You could get the Nyhamn and cut it to fit. The width of the mattress is wider than the van. That would make for a great mod. Custom fitted bed for under $100.

The bill for $98.05 is for the free oil change. That is what they charge for an oil change, if I did not get it for free.

Every time something like that happens, I think to myself, I'm sure glad that I'm not riding my motorcycle. It looks like you have some useable parts on that van. Now's the chance for forum members to hit you up for parts.

I still don't understand why I got my recall notice in Spanish. But I finally got it done. While it was there, I got my oil changed for free. The dealership is now charging $100 for an oil change. I'm sure glad that I own a $1 Harbor Freight wrench.

Okay.......

I don't think you'll find one. A capless fuel door is exactly that. You are not going to find a cap with a lock. I guess you could take measurements, then buy every possible cap that's about the same size, and try them all. You could get lucky. You may even find something to fit and seal correctly. Then what? Drive around with the fuel door open? Or remove it? The 70's are a bygone dra. Nobody is siphoning gas with a garden hose. The filler neck from the fuel door to the tank has a screen which prevents a siphon hose. People steal gas these days by drilling a hole in your gas tank and letting all the gas drip out into their collection pan. Are you worried about someone pouring sugar into your tank?

I would suggest that whatever you buy, it is compatible with the Ford computer systems high speed and medium speed control area network protocols. Some scan tools are "universal", and will not read "everything" for every car. Some OBD II interface devices are specifically made to do that. A very inexpensive OBD II for Ford, which you can find on eBay & Amazon, will have a toggle switch to select HS-CAN and MS-CAN. Contact the seller or manufacturer before you buy anything. Ask specifically about Ford MS-CAN & HS-CAN. Ask about being able to read transmission codes, brake codes, et cetera. I've tried several different adapters and several different types of diagnostic software and apps. With the right connector, just about any free software or app will read the diagnostic trouble codes. I don't think that you need to spend a lot of money. FORScan, which is the most popular, and just about every free app or downloadable software will read codes. That device you're looking at says, "wide vehicle coverage". It does not say that it's Ford specific. It's a lot of money to spend for a code reader, which is not vehicle specific.

If you can't securely mount the wheel, because the hub bolts are too short, then don't do it. I can't imagine how that is even possible.

What could go wrong?

Is this for your LED roof lights?

Is there enough room in a Short Wheel Base for you to stretch out?

Don Ridley is correct. You've already got the entire lower bumper with the lamp housings, right? All you need to do is add the lamps, then wire them? I would just use a fused relay, and connect the coil to the parking lamps. If it were my install, I would also install amber LED H11. As a side note, whenever I've installed aftermarket LED, I always bench test the lamps first. I make sure that the lamps actually work without flickering. And I get an AMP draw reading, so that I can fuse the circuit appropriately. Most of these LED lamps have a very low AMP draw and are low wattage. I've hooked up light bars with a 5A fuse.

Did you ever install the refrigeration unit?

That could easily happen to any one of us.

It comes in "unisex". So you don't have to worry about choosing between men's and women's sizes.

I wouldn't waste a new one.

I've never heard of an "upgrade" to the OEM air conditioning. You can install a rooftop air conditioning unit. Mercedes Sprinters used for touring and camping have them. It would make the van look like you are delivering fish. But you will be comfortable.

Use your imagination. Wrap condoms around the split loom and zip tie them down. Seriously. Nobody will see it. It doesn't have to look good or be heat resistant. The split loom protects your wires. The rubber will stop the sound from the split loom rattling around.

Is that all "Covid shut-down" related? Laid off employees, work volume slows, can't get workers back in, now shop is operating with skeleton crew and work is backing up?

You will have to fabricate your own. Get some foam. Good stuff. I bought some off-brand, generic, imitation tape. I used if for a wiring project on a Harley Davidson. It worked fine. Is that wire, which id dangling, the wire with split loom making noise? You could clip the wire down, so that it doesn't just dangle, and rattle.

Amazon sells things like that.

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When I run across that, I go to the dealership parts counter. The counter guy can pull up a parts diagram on his computer. Parts like that are almost never in stock. Then I ask for the part number and the name of the part. I tell him that I will search for the part online, and if I can't find it on my own, then I'll call him and have him order it. If they actually have that part in stock, I buy it. Saves me time. I don't have to search for it, order it, and wait for delivery. I can have the part right away, and do the repair. Lowes and Home Depot have pipe insulation. It comes in different inner diameter sizes for different size pipes. Looking at collinjx's photo, that looks like what it's there for. Insulates the hose for winter, so that the wiper fluid doesn't freeze. On a cigarette break. Maybe you are the first person on the forum who has ever needed to replace that part. So nobody has any idea, and can't help you. I've never had to deal with something like on any car I've ever owned. After you do the job, you'll be the expert. So do us all a favor. Take a bunch of photos, and write up the process. The next guy can refer to you.