Fifty150

I like performance exhaust also. On the Transit Connect, that's not available. No aftermarket performance exhaust. You can fabricate. Cut out the resonator, and replace it with a straight pipe. Cut our the muffler. Maybe add a glasspack. You'll make noise. It may not sound good. But it will be loud.

Ford sells 2 separate 29" blades. One is for the driver side. One is for the passenger side. Ford also offers a 28" wiper blade which will fit both driver and passenger side. You can use 28" or 29". You won't notice the difference. A lot of the wiper blade companies do not have a 29" blade. Sears sells a 29" wiper blade.

It would be strange if all that fluid that was suppose to be in the transmission torque converter somehow wound up in the sump. More likely scenario is that someone else poured in 4 quarts. I could imagine that a tech who didn't know what he was doing, added 4 quarts. Then the shop manager decided not to do anything or say anything about it. Because it would cost them more money to drain out 8 quarts, and refill with another 4 quarts. Probably one of the two shops in December 2021.

Thanks for the video, if you are bioweaponsystem154

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10137070-9999.pdf

You do not need to do that. There is a tool. It's called an o2 sensor wrench.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2022/RCLRPT-22V192-5167.PDF

I can't wait until I get my recall notice. Then I can get the van fixed for free. I almost paid out of pocket.

It may or may not help. I would do the complete transmission service. A triple drain and fill. That would accomplish 2 things. 1, you would know that you now have clean fluid, not partially diluted dirty fluid. 2, with every drain, you will know that 4 quarts of fluid is coming out, and that you are replacing it with 4 quarts. And it will also let you know that there's something else going on, if you just added 4 quarts of fluid, drove it around, and then 8 quarts of fluid comes out when you drain it again. Makes you wonder if some tech at one of those shops decided to pour in 4 quarts, maybe accidentally, and not say anything about it. Then the service writer at the shop just decided to tell you that the fluid was fine, because they were too lazy to drain it out and fill it again. it may, or may not, make a difference. But the fill specification is 4 liters. Not quarts. That's actually 4.227 quarts. So that's 4 quart bottles, or 1 gallon container, plus 7.560658 ounces. As I recall, I bought 3 gallons of fluid, plus 1 quart. On the first 2 drain and fills, I only filled with 1 gallon. I figured it wouldn't matter, since I was only using it to dilute dirty fluid, not driving 100,000 miles with less fluid than specified. Then on the third fill, I used a measuring cup to add the correct amount - or as close to the correct amount as I could possibly get within an ounce or two.

Mercon LV is a specification. The conventional wisdom is to use a fluid which meets specification. In the case of a dealership, they will use what the manufacturer recommends. A Ford dealer will use Motorcraft Mercon LV. The next option is using a licensed product. The wording is where it gets tricky. Some brands actually say that it's a licensed product. Other brands simply say "approved for use"., or "recommended for". And then there are ATF formulations which are suppose to be "multi vehicle". Multi-vehicle formulations are typically used by lube shops, where they have to service all sorts of different vehicles. These formulations are not specific to your transmission, or anyone's transmission. That doesn't make it better, or worse. Some people report that their vehicles run fine with a multi-vehicle ATF. Look around. Do your own reading. Then decide for yourself what you want to do. GBL has reported good results with Triax. My own history of various ATFs include using boutique brands, and "house brands". I cannot with any certainty say that any brand has outperformed another brand. Royal Purple, Redline, Lucas, Wal*Mart SuperTech, Motorcraft, O'Reilly's........and more. All of these fluids have gone in and out of my transmissions. With automatic transmissions, just like engines, regular fluid changes will yield better results than trying to see how long you can keep using the same fluid. You really would not want to use motor oil for 15,000 or 20,000 miles. You really would not want to use ATF for 100,000 or 200,000 miles. What I can say, relevant to Ford Transit Connect 6F35, is that my van currently is using Valvoline MaxLife without a problem. Just check out what's available. Read the data sheets. Read the reviews. Notice how Valvoline is licensed by GM, and recommended for use with Ford, but not licensed by Ford. And Phillips 66 lists the licenses and license numbers. Whereas Peak says, "recommended for use" with the license numbers, but doesn't actually say that it is licensed. Maybe it means something. Maybe not.

This is the unit I bought a few years ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ8GHG3/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Post a few photos of your issue. Sometimes it helps to see it. You narrated description has left our imaginations to run wild.

Sometimes, that's all that it takes.

ForScan recommends several. It's right on the website, with links.

That issue really wasn't much of an issue. The 1st generation had a different engine and transmission. Similar, but different. The recall you saw was for the 2nd generation vans.

I have a wrench, which cost $1. I use it every time I change the oil. It saves me $100, which I don't pay, because I change the oil myself. Because my dealership decided that I should get a free oil change. To make up for the inconvenience of having to bring my car in for the recall action. Either I'm such a great customer, or that is how they build customer loyalty. I keep bringing my cars to that dealership for service. I keep buying cars from them. "Free Oil Change" is a marketing gimmick. I think my dealership calls it the same thing.

https://commercial.mobilityworks.com/wheelchair-vans-for-sale/2018-ford-transit-connect-driverge-nm0ge9e70j1352689/

You can look over the owners manual. That probably won't help. The condition which you described, where the van locks itself, with the key in the ignition, is not suppose to happen unless you are moving. Try first turning the Auto lock on. Then turning the Auto lock off. If you disable Auto lock, then it should not lock automatically.

Look into turning your "autolock" function on and off.

I haven't seen anything for retail sale. But of course, a good fabricator can make it.

Spend that money on some new shoes or a nice dinner.