Fifty150

Not enough people want to buy it. If there was a larger demand, and higher sales volume, it would not be discontinued. Reminds me of other low sales volume cars that were discontinued. Nothing wrong with them. They weren't bad cars. Just not enough buyers.

That sounds nice. How do you like it so far? Can you see well enough when driving at night?

That could be the problem. It could be the right frequency, sending the wrong signals. If that is the case, remove those sensors. Install the correct part number sensor for a Transit Connect.

Once you learn the process, the next time will be easier and faster. I didn't realize that the hitch receiver made it more difficult. You'll have to do everything all over again when you get the flat repaired, and swap the spare back into the storage location. Now would be a good time to have a TPMS sensor installed into the spare. Then you can rotate all five tires into use.

We really don't know. He would post about having different problems, and how he was planning to address the problems. Then he stopped posting. He never posted an end result with 100% success. He just sort of left us at his last mistake.

That's one thing that we do know. The battery is new. Test the battery. See how many volts it has. Auto parts and battery stores have a machine which they hook up up to test the electrical system. That's a good start. You could buy the tool. I've thought about it.

1 problem could be the body control module which controls the locks. From what you described, it's the most likely scenario. Maybe someone here could provide a wiring diagram, and steps to troubleshoot the system. You'll probably need some sort of computer to interface with the car's computers so that you can "read" what's happening or not happening when you press buttons on the key fob. You'll probably need a multimeter. A few of the other guys on the forum are very knowledgeable about the different computer modules. Another problem could be your remote. I don't think it's the remote. But.......The car is over 10 years old. It could need a new battery. Maybe the buttons are worn and the contacts are bad. Sometimes you can take the remote apart, clean it, and reassemble it with a fresh battery. Or see if you can buy a new remote control fob. Even after you troubleshoot the BCM, it would be nice to have a new remote with a fresh battery.

No. There is nothing developed for the automotive aftermarket. You can try to engineer a solution by way of LED drivers and a potentiometer. I would not recommend trying.

Once again, thank you Don Ridley. This will help a lot of people.

I am guessing that you can have these in The United States as "off road" vehicles. Drive them on private property only, and not on public roads.

It looks like a Kei Car. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kei_car#Description

The latest version of Android Auto, which is supposedly no longer supported, is available.

Now that the windshield seal is fixed, and the leak is gone....... I want to tint the windshield. The front windows, door auto glass, and the windshield. 70% tint. Just enough to provide a little comfort. I don't drive the van much on a daily basis. But I do use the van for road trips and day trips where I will drive it for many, many hours, to go hundreds of miles. On trips like that, I want a little more comfort. Not black-out limo tint like I have for the rear pieces of glass. The huge sunvisors obstruct a lot of the view offered by the huge windshield. The huge windshield allows a little too much sun and glare. If not the entire windshield, then maybe the top portion to the line marked on the glass. Has anyone ever tinted the whole windshield?

According to Android Authority, it's almost impossible to troubleshoot problems with Android Auto. Too many combinations of phones, cars, and radios. Too many variables. With so many auto manufacturers, car stereo manufacturers, and cell phone manufacturers invested into the technology, and the countless number of end users who are now trying to use the technology - Google quits. Now for anyone who has an Android, and wants to be able to use the technology.....good luck! Here is what I have found. Open Google Maps. Go to settings, navigation settings, then Google Assistant settings. Manually turn on "Driving Mode".

It looks good.

Tell us about the installation. Did it bolt on? Is it a stick on with adhesive? How many beers? How much bad language?

I think you'll be okay. A few hundred pounds of bicycle and bike rack is not heavy enough to snap off. Those ratings are for towing. I see those mobility scooters for the disabled on hitch racks. Those are a lot heavier, and require a bigger, heavier hitch rack platform with some sort of ramp or winch. What I have seen, and don't like, is when different things are carried on hitch receiver racks, and those items appear to be bouncing as the vehicle drives down the road. It's usually something like a 4 bike rack, or a basket rack on an extension. I have a rack made for motorcycles. I've never used it for motorcycles. I just don't like the idea of that much weight, bouncing around like that. Bicycles work great on it. I would imagine that an electric bike would be fine on a motorcycle rack. Since most bicycle racks are made for bicycles which weigh a lot less.

Then I get a bag of frozen peas for my groin. They usually add a swift kick to my testes. That really hurts. ???

I like the bed. It looks good. What do you do when you meet a girl?

Everyone knows that you are suppose to rub acetone liberally, then warm it up with a propane torch.

There is already a TSB for the 8F35 for harsh shifting and erratic shifting. 8F35 Transmission: Reprogram The PCM And Perform The Adaptive Learning Drive Cycle https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10168743-0001.pdf That was for transmissions built in 2019. There will probably be a bulletin of some sort for your 2020 model. I'm pretty sure that within the next few years, they will have some sort of update or procedure for that transmission. How many miles do you have on your van? Do you already have 30,000, 40,000, or 50,000 miles? The van has a 3 year bumper to bumper warranty, and a 5 year powertrain warranty. I would let Ford do whatever they think is best while the vehicle is under warranty. As it's not in their best interest to have to replace a transmission. Do a little reading on the transmission. https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/diagnosing-the-erratic-shifting-fords-8f35-57/ has pretty good information.

In regards to the ATF service, I've talked to the techs at a local dealership, and the service advisor. I had my doubts with the service advisor. I figured he was just trying to sell me service. But the techs all seem to be in agreement. They all say 30,000 miles. It's a "severe service" recommendation. We all have different drive styles. Some of us fall into the "regular drive cycle", and that fluid may last. Some of us may very well fall into the "severe" cycle, and may not even know it. Stop and go driving. Idling in bumper to bumper traffic. Hill climbs. Loads. Actual commercial style driving, where you go from service call to service call, and the van drives around all day. The point is that you can't hurt the van by keeping the fluid fresh. If it really concerns you, get your used transmission fluid analyzed. Send it to a lab. Then you will have a better of idea of what to do, based on the lab reports. There is an intelligent oil life monitor for the motor oil. There isn't an automatic transmission fluid life monitor. With regards to your van going uphill - I can only tell you that my van has a different engine and transmission, but goes uphill fine. It could be you. Maybe it's the way you drive. Try accelerating into the hill climb. Maybe if you step into the pedal a little to increase the engine RPM, the van's transmission will find the right gear more efficiently.

The phone is a Samsung A10e. The radio is an extremely inexpensive radio from Amazon. The same radio is sold by many Amazon sellers under different "brand" names, priced from under $50, to over $100. The displays will be the same. The back of the radio will be the same. The wiring harness and wire colors will be the same. It's the same radio, from the same factory - sort of like how a lot of the aftermarket LED light bars, spotlights, dashcams, backup cams....... are exactly the same. The same things are also sold on eBay. And oftentimes, it's the same "seller" selling under different names. I bought the least expensive version, since it's not worth paying more. Whether you have an Apple or an Android, the only thing that you need to do, is plug in the USB cable. That is where it starts going wrong. Sometimes the phone connects right away. Sometimes, it never connects. I turned to the internet. Android Auto not connecting appears to be big problem. Different types of phones. Different types of radios. Different types of cars. It makes sense. So many different variables, and Google engineers have to write code for every variation to work. Is that possible? I don't know. Even very expensive phones, with very expensive radios, and very expensive cars were having problems. So my inexpensive phone, and inexpensive radio, wasn't having problems because of me being cheap. Sometimes it's "user error". People are using cheap USB cables that they bought at a gas station or liquor store. You need a cable which is capable of carrying high speed data. The cable should be as short as possible. I got that. 12" high speed data cable. The next piece of advice, which was commonly found online, was just to disconnect the cable, wait, then plug it back in. Not really a solution. I got the same results. Sometimes I plug it in, and it works. Sometimes, it doesn't work. How many times can you unplug and plug a cable in? No logic to it working, then not working for a few days, then working again. Another piece of advice online was to "start from scratch". Disconnect the car battery ground wire if possible. Or take the dash apart and disconnect the radio harness. This erases the radio's "keep alive memory". Disconnecting the battery ground could also wipe out other memory in your car's computers. Uninstall the Android Auto app, restart the phone, reinstall the Android Auto app, then restart the phone. This is not a solution. You can't do this every time you go to your car. I tried it. It didn't work. After reading though a lot of online websites, I was just as confused as I was in the beginning. As I told Chuck Woolery, "thanks, but I think I'll try my luck on my own". Some car stereo sellers, even the cheap ones on Amazon and eBay, offer firmware updates. I found the webpage for that. The radios that I had were already loaded with the latest versions of their firmware. My phone allegedly has the most recent updates. Here is what I found. So far, it works. I went into the phone's settings, went to the application, and manually allowed permission for Android Auto to change system settings. With any luck, it will keep working. Hopefully this helps the next person who tries to install an aftermarket radio.

Modern transmissions have transmission control module with an "adaptive" learning process. It's trying to find the right gear, to match to the engine RPM in relation to your foot on the accelerator pedal (which has a sensor). With some of the models, the "adaptive" memory can be cleared of prior inputs. For whatever reason, clearing the memory and allowing the transmission control module to "learn" everything from zero data, seems to fix a lot of transmission complaints.

Did you order the lift kit from https://risingtuning.com/lift-kits/product-1846 ?