Fifty150

I like the bed. It looks good. What do you do when you meet a girl?

Everyone knows that you are suppose to rub acetone liberally, then warm it up with a propane torch.

There is already a TSB for the 8F35 for harsh shifting and erratic shifting. 8F35 Transmission: Reprogram The PCM And Perform The Adaptive Learning Drive Cycle https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10168743-0001.pdf That was for transmissions built in 2019. There will probably be a bulletin of some sort for your 2020 model. I'm pretty sure that within the next few years, they will have some sort of update or procedure for that transmission. How many miles do you have on your van? Do you already have 30,000, 40,000, or 50,000 miles? The van has a 3 year bumper to bumper warranty, and a 5 year powertrain warranty. I would let Ford do whatever they think is best while the vehicle is under warranty. As it's not in their best interest to have to replace a transmission. Do a little reading on the transmission. https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/diagnosing-the-erratic-shifting-fords-8f35-57/ has pretty good information.

In regards to the ATF service, I've talked to the techs at a local dealership, and the service advisor. I had my doubts with the service advisor. I figured he was just trying to sell me service. But the techs all seem to be in agreement. They all say 30,000 miles. It's a "severe service" recommendation. We all have different drive styles. Some of us fall into the "regular drive cycle", and that fluid may last. Some of us may very well fall into the "severe" cycle, and may not even know it. Stop and go driving. Idling in bumper to bumper traffic. Hill climbs. Loads. Actual commercial style driving, where you go from service call to service call, and the van drives around all day. The point is that you can't hurt the van by keeping the fluid fresh. If it really concerns you, get your used transmission fluid analyzed. Send it to a lab. Then you will have a better of idea of what to do, based on the lab reports. There is an intelligent oil life monitor for the motor oil. There isn't an automatic transmission fluid life monitor. With regards to your van going uphill - I can only tell you that my van has a different engine and transmission, but goes uphill fine. It could be you. Maybe it's the way you drive. Try accelerating into the hill climb. Maybe if you step into the pedal a little to increase the engine RPM, the van's transmission will find the right gear more efficiently.

The phone is a Samsung A10e. The radio is an extremely inexpensive radio from Amazon. The same radio is sold by many Amazon sellers under different "brand" names, priced from under $50, to over $100. The displays will be the same. The back of the radio will be the same. The wiring harness and wire colors will be the same. It's the same radio, from the same factory - sort of like how a lot of the aftermarket LED light bars, spotlights, dashcams, backup cams....... are exactly the same. The same things are also sold on eBay. And oftentimes, it's the same "seller" selling under different names. I bought the least expensive version, since it's not worth paying more. Whether you have an Apple or an Android, the only thing that you need to do, is plug in the USB cable. That is where it starts going wrong. Sometimes the phone connects right away. Sometimes, it never connects. I turned to the internet. Android Auto not connecting appears to be big problem. Different types of phones. Different types of radios. Different types of cars. It makes sense. So many different variables, and Google engineers have to write code for every variation to work. Is that possible? I don't know. Even very expensive phones, with very expensive radios, and very expensive cars were having problems. So my inexpensive phone, and inexpensive radio, wasn't having problems because of me being cheap. Sometimes it's "user error". People are using cheap USB cables that they bought at a gas station or liquor store. You need a cable which is capable of carrying high speed data. The cable should be as short as possible. I got that. 12" high speed data cable. The next piece of advice, which was commonly found online, was just to disconnect the cable, wait, then plug it back in. Not really a solution. I got the same results. Sometimes I plug it in, and it works. Sometimes, it doesn't work. How many times can you unplug and plug a cable in? No logic to it working, then not working for a few days, then working again. Another piece of advice online was to "start from scratch". Disconnect the car battery ground wire if possible. Or take the dash apart and disconnect the radio harness. This erases the radio's "keep alive memory". Disconnecting the battery ground could also wipe out other memory in your car's computers. Uninstall the Android Auto app, restart the phone, reinstall the Android Auto app, then restart the phone. This is not a solution. You can't do this every time you go to your car. I tried it. It didn't work. After reading though a lot of online websites, I was just as confused as I was in the beginning. As I told Chuck Woolery, "thanks, but I think I'll try my luck on my own". Some car stereo sellers, even the cheap ones on Amazon and eBay, offer firmware updates. I found the webpage for that. The radios that I had were already loaded with the latest versions of their firmware. My phone allegedly has the most recent updates. Here is what I found. So far, it works. I went into the phone's settings, went to the application, and manually allowed permission for Android Auto to change system settings. With any luck, it will keep working. Hopefully this helps the next person who tries to install an aftermarket radio.

Modern transmissions have transmission control module with an "adaptive" learning process. It's trying to find the right gear, to match to the engine RPM in relation to your foot on the accelerator pedal (which has a sensor). With some of the models, the "adaptive" memory can be cleared of prior inputs. For whatever reason, clearing the memory and allowing the transmission control module to "learn" everything from zero data, seems to fix a lot of transmission complaints.

Did you order the lift kit from https://risingtuning.com/lift-kits/product-1846 ?

Android Auto works sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. This is a problem that happens with a lot of different phones, cars, and radios. No real solution for making it work. Delete the app. Reinstall the app. Delete the app's saved cars. Restart the phone. Restart the car. Disconnect the keep alive memory of the radio. Factory reset the radio. Use a high speed data cable. Unplug USB and plug in again. My guess is that with so many phones and so many radios, there must be a problem with the lines of codes.

This is the light bar on the front of my Transit Connect

Use a fused relay. The fuse will be a part of the relay, so no need to install a separate inline fuse. These are available from most of your electronics or auto supply sources. There are many brands. Buy one with a harness if it makes it easier for you. Change the fuse to an appropriate size. No matter what the seller claims for watts and lumens - it's usually not accurate. While the item description may say 240 watt or whatever, it's probably less than 60 watts, or 5 amps on a 12 volt system. Whatever you buy, test it so that you can install it with the correct fuse. For something like the below shown wiring harness, pole 86 is positive, and pole 85 is ground. There is a coil in the relay. These poles are for either end of the coil. On some diagrams, you will see 85 as the power, and 86 as the ground. It doesn't matter. As long as power goes in one, and the other end grounds, it energizes the coil. This is what trips the relay to turn on. You will tap your high beam wire and connect it to either 85 or 86, and gound the other pole. Pole 30 is known as the Common. That is the pole which will connect to the battery for power. On a fused relay, the fuse will be on pole 30. Pole 87 is the Normally Open pole. Often referred to as "N/O". This connects to your lighting. The circuit is not connected to the battery for power, until the coil is energized. Once you turn your high beam on, the coil will connect the power from the battery to the lighting. Don't forget to ground the light bar. On a lot of diagrams, you will see that the the light bar ground and relay ground can be connected together. That is correct. It is safe to do that.

parts.ford.com

New cars have a 3 year bumper to bumper warranty.

Impossible to say without actually looking at your van. The van has a heater core. There is a series of hoses and valves which feed heated radiator fluid through this heater core. The valves are electronically controlled. The HVAC system is electronically controlled. The van also has a series of computers which receives the data of how you are turning the knobs on the dashboard. Those knobs on the dashboard have a wiring harness behind the dashboard. You could have anything from a bad heater core, to valves which aren't opening correctly, to the computer not operating correctly. You might have bad switches behind the knobs on the dashboard. There could be corrosion in a wiring harness. There's also the little motors which control the little doors under the dashboard to allow cold air, hot air, outside air........ to flow to the floor, dash, windshield defrost.........they used to call those "blend doors", and there were motor units which moved them. You need to start trouble shooting. Check to see what is or isn't working. Is there hot fluid flowing to the heater core? That would be step 1. If the heater core is not hot, then that's why you have no heat. IF the heater core is hot, then you have to figure out why the hot air is not flowing. It's a lot of work. Good luck.

You won't be stocking up on water pumps, alternators, exhaust manifolds, timing belts, fuel pumps, EGR valves....... or anything like that. Your new Ford comes with a 5 year powertrain warranty. Most of these Ford trucks will last a little past that 5 year warranty.

I almost bought those parts to install myself. Then the recall notice came out. The dealership fixed it for me.

My car is a 2016. I've spent some money on aftermarket modifications. Backup camera. Radio. USB power ports. LED lights. LED light bar. I bought most of the stuff from Amazon. I added what I wanted because my barebones commercial model came with nothing. Only an AM radio. I bought a set of tires. That's normal wear. I'll buy a new battery sooner or later. Normal wear. Wiper blades. Normal wear. I bought tires from a tire shop. Not the dealership. Didn't feel the need to buy OEM tires. I'll probably buy the battery from Costco. I'm not spending double at the dealership for a battery. Costco sells Interstate batteries, and they are priced about half of what a dealership charges for Motorcraft. You can buy whatever wipers you like, from any store. 29" wiper blades are expensive, no matter what you buy. It's 2022. I've had it for 6 years. The only maintenance for me has been oil changes, and transmission fluid change. When I changed the air filter the 1st time, I installed an oiled filter. That's it's own controversy and debatable. I got a case of oil filters from Amazon. 12 Motorcraft oil filters were $15. I buy oil where there is a sale, and/or rebate. No preference. Wal-Mart and Costco both sell motor oil for a good price. I expect to change the spark plugs sooner or later. Amazon had Autolite Iridium spark plugs, in a 4 pack, for $9.64. Autolite had a $3 rebate per spark plug. Autolite sent me a $12 rebate, for spark plugs that I paid $9. I expect to replace the brakes sooner or later. I haven't bought those parts yet. I do not foresee anything in the way of major mechanical repair that I will do myself. I am hoping that I don't have an engine or transmission failure. These vans aren't plagued with cooling system failures, even though it's a somewhat sophisticated cooling system. Radiator, thermostat, fan, sensors, and valves all seem to be working without reported failures. I haven't read on the forum where people are reporting failures in the air conditioning. Although for decades, Fords have been known to have failures with the blend door actuators in different models. My biggest issue has been the leaking windshield. That's been fixed under recall. You may not be ordering a lot of parts. What parts did you think you were going to have a hard time ordering?

I get by with FORScan

I buy from anyplace with the best pricing and availability. I start with Ford Parts to find the right part and part number. I can usually find an auto parts distributor selling the parts for less than dealer price. Online sellers often have better pricing. A local distributor usually has parts in stock. Online sellers ship within days. Ford dealer only if I need the parts immediately, and nobody else has it. A lot of times, I will buy aftermarket parts. I don't care if it's a Motorcraft part.

I have no idea about the European market. In the US, Ford has a website. More than likely, there is an EU version of this.

Maybe. I don't know. Your guess is as good as mine. Maybe he's talking about where the winch system mounts to the bottom of the vehicle. That part just happened to be on the side of the road, as I was walking along. It looks exactly like it will fit my Transit Connect. But it may not. I haven't tried it. There are no markings on it with a manufacturer name or part number. Just my suspicion that it's a part which is used on other makes and models. Low Speed Pursuit, back to chasing OJ.

I found this on the side of the road. Yeah, now I have 2. I suspect that this particular part is used on other vehicles also. Not just Transit Connect. So it's probably easier to find. People lose things like this all the time. They change the tire. Then they threw the flat tire into the trunk, "the boot", the truck bed, the back seat...... and drive off. I've lost all sorts of bits and pieces. And those little parts are often very expensive. In some cases, it is almost impossible to replace. Most of those things are only important if you are restoring an old vehicle, and you have to have everything original. Otherwise, you may be able to find something like it in the aftermarket auto parts world. With this piece, I would try a junkyard.

I had one. Worked okay. Maybe better to look up at the mirror, than looking down at the dash, when reversing. I still like looking over my shoulder. Mine was a cheap one from Amazon. It still worked. You probably have something nicer. Just a few days ago, I got a better radio with a screen. Then I removed the backup camera monitor on the mirror, and ran the wire to the new radio. Something you can think about doing, before you install the mirror monitor. There are already threads on reprogramming to "dark mode". Also threads on installing backup cameras, radios, extra power ports, etc. You may want to read the thread on exchanging automatic transmission fluid. If the 2016 van had the original battery, that's probably why it died. It's old. That battery was 6 years . Batteries usually have a 36 month warranty. There's a thread about upgrading to a better battery. Questionable about what "better" means. Maybe more cranking amps. But the factory battery starts fine. Will it last longer? My 2016 still has the original battery. My F-150 OEM battery lasted 9 years. An Optima battery which costs twice as much only lasted 5 years.

A lot of useable parts on that car. This is the chance for people who want things like the door stopper, or seats.

In my van, I found that replacing the OEM light bulbs with LED was enough to make the interior bright enough. At least for my eyes. You might want to try that first. The backup cameras are now very inexpensive online. A few things to consider are how to run the wires, and what type of monitor you plan to use. Do you already have an aftermarket radio with a screen that you can use for a monitor? Are you installing a monitor? There are also wireless camera and monitor kits, so that you don't have to do as much work.

It usually helps to have the correct part. Whenever you don't have the correct part, and "try to make it work" - you take a chance.