Fifty150

The dash kits are over $100. That's the most expensive part.

I really like that cloth tape also. I only wish I knew about it, half a lifetime ago. My favorite application for it is running wiring inside of motorcycle handlebars. But that is only specific to custom Harley Davidson motorcycles. I got what I paid for. The radio works. The Android Auto works sometimes. Sometimes it connects. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes the screen says that it's connecting and loading the phone data, and it stays that way until I unplug the phone. I don't know what I can do about troubleshooting it. Assuming my phone works. Assuming the radio, since it's new, works. I know that it can work. The only thing that I can physically do about it is buy one of those USB cables made for high speed data. At the moment, I just have a power cable for charging. If a better cable doesn't fix it, then it's probably the radio. Which still isn't too bad. I can still connect via Bluetooth for hands free calling and streaming music. The SD card and USB both play all the music and videos. I just won't be able to use the big screen for the navigation application from the phone.

Thanks for the timely reply. I'll note, that for anyone else who bought the cheapest van on the lot, with an AM/FM only radio, that there is a different dash kit. It comes with different parts. There is a sub-dash bracket. And if you are also installing a backup camera, the curved dashboard on the drivers side pops off just like the piece in the center, if you need more access to run the wiring. Since it is so basic, a stripped down commercial model with AM/FM only, encountered zero problems with changing the radio. No steering wheel controls, 4.3" display, or Ford Sync not working. Everything on the new radio worked. The hard part was trying to line up the new radio with the cutout for the dash kit. In case it helps anyone else out, Amazon sells the installation wire harness kit, which also comes with the antenna adapter. It works. I used solder seal connectors, and wire loom cloth tape. The radio that I bought was from Amazon. Nothing special. It offers just a little bit more than the OEM AM/FM. I really can't expect much when the radio only cost $13.59. The price of $67.94 is for a 5 pack. How do they sell something like that, for that price? I don't care. I've got new radios in every car.

You could also buy something from Amazon. If it doesn't work, return it.

You need a diagnostic code reader capable of reading the computer module which controls the brakes. Most code readers, the inexpensive ones, do not read brake codes. They usually only read codes from the engine or powertrain control modules. Try FORScan first. FORScan is very comprehensive, and may be able to read brake codes. See if a local auto parts store has a code reader capable of reading brake codes. I don't know if stores have equipment for that. Auto parts stores usually read diagnostic codes for free, because they want to sell you the auto repair parts. Or you pay for a diagnostic at whatever price a shop or dealer will charge you. They plug in a very expensive code reader. Maybe, you buy the very expensive code reader and buy a license for Ford IDS, and do it yourself. https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/vdirs/wds/diagnosticsites/vcmdvd/mcs/idssoftware.asp

The installation kit comes with a harness for the blue wire. The blue wire is usually for power to an amplifier. Before I take apart the dash and remove the radio, does the base model even have a powered amplifier? Do I even need to hook up that wire to the aftermarket radio harness?

Custom upholstery. A good shop will be able to build a more comfortable seat. Different types of foam. Different cover. They could build in heat pads. Vibrating massagers. The frame could be built to offer a different recilne angle. The only construction is adding the airbag sensor to the bottom - if you want to retain that function. You can do whatever you want. Really. People have flipped the seats around to face backward. It's up to you to decide if you want to have a "legal" and/or safe passenger seat. I would first try some pillows and seat pads. Any outlandish "pimp my ride" or "overhaulin'" type of build is possible. But you may not be able to rely on the seat belt or airbag system for safety once the passenger area is reconfigured.

I hope you have a good jacket.

The cabin air filter has nothing to do with temperature.

Nothing is available. You can get a padlock and/or lock hasp. Don't drill into the gas cap door. Use epoxy.

I'm reading, "See pennzoil.com/warrnty for details" Whatever those details are, I don't know. I haven't read it. Nor am I going to read it. I am pretty sure that one of the conditions of the "warranty" is using only Pennzoil products. And most people will either trade the car in, or sell it, well before 500,000 miles. I would say "good luck" with trying to get them to honor the warranty. More than likely, there's enough fine print for them to not honor the warranty, or prorate the warranty. Imagine if you bought a car back in 2007. Okay, my F-150 is an 07. The cost of buying a replacement engine, is $2,627. I would imagine labor being another $XXX, depending on whatever a local shop charges for labor. Somehow, I'm not motivated by that "warranty". My truck has used everything from very expensive boutique brands, to the lowest price oil from WalMart & Amazon, and whatever it is that they use at discount lube shops. I've spent over $20 on a filter, and less than $2 on a filter. The truck runs fine. I noticed no gains or setbacks, from high priced oil to low priced oil. I see no advantage to being loyal to any brand or formulation.

Did you set up a screen to keep the bees out of the cockpit?

A project like that will go the way of installing a manual transmission. At least one person has tried. I don't see the happy ending.

Part luck. Part odds and driving conditions. I've driven a lot of different cars over the years. My Jeep from years back, needed 2 new windshields. I thought it was because of the angle facing the road. I've never had to replace the windshield on any of my other personal cars. Although, the 1st week I owned the Transit Connect, a rock struck the windshield and made a good divot. A windshield shop filled it. Since then, I haven't had any more windshield damage. With work cars, that's a different story. I had a year where I got 3 cracked windshields. Over the years, I've lost count. But I must have gotten at least 6 or 8 cracked windshields driving company vehicles. Maybe because the odds stacked against me with all of the miles driven commercially. The only thing that I am sure of, is that there is no way to avoid or prevent road debris from breaking my windshield. It just happens.

I don't know what I would buy to replace the Transit Connect with. For me, the Transit Connect was a low cost option to replace an Explorer. It moves people. 7 passenger seating. I won't be able to do that with a small pickup. Or even a large pickup. I'm cringing at the thought of spending twice the money for a larger van or sports utility vehicle. An all-wheel-drive Transit is coming to the market. It will cost 3 times what I paid for the Transit Connect, and be much larger and harder to park. Only people in large cities understand trying to find parking on the street, only for the parking space to be too small to squeeze into. Ford's CEO has a very strong dislike for dealerships overcharging the customers with add-ons, markups, and price gouging. He has publicly stated that he wants to change the sales structure to a flat price model. People are also pricing cars online and buying cars from Costco. The last time that I bought a car, you had to haggle like it was a third world country bazaar. I've always paid less than MSRP out the door. Maybe things are done differently now that 3's Company is off the air. A local dealership advertises that they do not mark-up their cars. Their ad on television says that no customer pays over MSRP. I haven't bought a car from them, so I don't know.

And on a hot day, the air conditioning fan adds to the noise. This is not a quiet car. It's worked fine for me, going over steep hills in San Francisco. The oil change message also notifies you once you are close to a year since the last oil change. Even if you have only driven 3,000 miles. I think that my oil is fine. The van's computer feels otherwise. It's necessary for those huge sun visors. Mileage is subpar with short trips, idling in stop and go city traffic. As a service vehicle, where you go less than a mile, or only sometimes 2 city blocks, from 1 call to the next, and you are stuck sitting at green lights with AC at full blast - I've seen as low as 15 miles per gallon. Still better than the pickup truck which only gets 10 MPG in similar conditions. The only reason that I bought a Transit Connect was pricing. Every other van offers better bells and whistles. But I wasn't going to pay double, for basic transportation of 7 people. With the seats folded down, the Transit Connect wagon is an efficient cargo van. That was the selling point for me. It goes from people mover, to cargo mover, without having to unbolt and remove seating.

That is awesome. Now you cut the roof, and install a skylight.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/nut-wheel-6465465-1#/sectionId:4343896 It looks like you can order a brand new set of lug nuts, and then you get the key included.

In my tool box, I have a Craftsman tool for removing lug locks. My van did not come with the locks, so I have not tried the tool with the Transit Connect lug lock. The tool worked on a Honda with aftermarket wheels.

From all the replies, the one answer that seems to work is to go to a dealership. Maybe with all of the Fords that they work on, someone there has a key that will fit. Or go from tire shop to tire shop, hoping that someone there has a key to fit.

As for security, you can lock the bike to the rack with a chain, steel cable, or Kryptonite type u-lock. But nothing is secure. A bike thief can cut through whatever security you have.

Check these out if you are worried about clearance for opening your liftgate.

There is a pricing matrix for selling extended warranties. They don't set the price to lose money. Whatever you pay, or whatever they quote, is based on the fact that they will make money selling those "warranties". It's like an insurance policy. They collect a lot of money, from a lot of people. Someone may need a repair. They find a way to deny it. Then if they do pay, you still may have to pay a deductible. Their money is made off the float, between collecting the money, and holding onto it as long as possible, before paying out the least. You may also want to read all of the fine print. What does that warranty actually cover? What does it not cover? Are there limits? An "extended warranty" may not cover things like wear items, and you may need to have all of your service records before they honor it. Also consider the cost of the warranty, versus any anticipated repair. Think about the big ticket items. Engine. Transmission. What are the chances of a failure covered under warranty? I get it. It's like buying insurance, an auto club membership, et cetera. For some people, it's worth every penny. And we all view economics from a different perspective. Insurance, I have to buy, by law. An auto club membership, I just don't buy. I might change a tire. I might jump start the car. I might replace the battery. I can do all of those things. I haven't locked my keys in the car since you needed to have the remote in your hand to lock and unlock the car. The only thing that I can't do, is tow the car myself. So I take the chance that I may need to pay $$$ for a tow. As opposed to paying $$ every year, for who knows how many years. But everyone has a different stroke of luck. We never know when a car may break down and need a tow. And we never know when a car may break down, and need a repair. So if you feel good about spending a few thousand dollars every few years, just in case, then it makes sense to you.

Look at the photo. Right above the junction box, there is a seat belt. You will need that. And the body panels. For both sides.