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Almo

T.C. Member
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About Almo

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    New Member

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  • Region
    Australia and Oceania
  • My. T.C.'s Year
    2007

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  1. Almo

    Engine stopping after start up.

    It appears air is leaking into the system when the engine is at rest. It goes fine around town starting and stopping but after 3 or 4 hrs sitting it does same thing, cuts out after idling for about 5 seconds. I've worked out that if I give it some fuel when cranking and rev it straight away from a cold start it will keep going once fuel pressure is up. Anyone got any ideas on how to ascertain where the air will be getting in? I dont want to go replacing fuel lines unnecessarily etc. Everything looks OK on a visual inspection. When I changed the fuel filter the plastic connectors on the ends of the three lines were really hard to get off and took some force so wondering about them too. That was a while ago though.
  2. Hi Guys, wondering if any one has had this issue that started today. I start the engine as per normal (it's a good starter), it runs for about 5 - 10 seconds then just stops dead. No spluttering or anything, like some one turned the key off. Then it will turn over but refuses to go. Not even a cough. After trying for about 5 - 10 minutes (luckily my battery is good) it will suddenly go but can be a bit hesitant to rev out for a start. It happened twice today from a cold start. Once going it's fine. You can stop and start it again no problem. So I'm wondering if it's a fuel pump issue? or if an air bubble is developing in the system somewhere when it sits maybe? Electrical/sensor issue? Any ideas much appreciated on where to start looking. Ps. I did a service on it about 700km ago and replaced the fuel filter. At the time I just filled the filter with diesel before I fitted the hoses, no bleeding was done. Not even sure how to bleed this system?
  3. Hi, I did this job about 3 months ago. The reason the joint does not come apart easily is because its a tapered fit. The two parts lock on to each other. Have a look at this excellent Youtube clip from 8.45min mark onwards to see the pry tool that the tech uses. I'm guessing that you wont have this tool (as I didnt) so I used a long pry/crow bar to put pressure on the joint whilst my work colleague bashed the end of the bolt (with the nut on to protect thread) to pop the joint. Maybe we got lucky but it worked. Just be careful not to damage the rubber boot. Good luck!
  4. Does anyone know how you test the tensioner for effectiveness or wear? I think mine might need replacing but not 100% and don't want to waste money. Is this a common wear item on the connects? Difficult job to replace or no? Any help from someone who has experience with this part appreciated. cheers, Al.
  5. Almo

    Drive/serpentine belt specs

    The answer is 1460mm. I had to replace it today. The belt grip spray only worked for so long. Luckily I new a guy on route and was able to use his facilities (and 15mm spanner!) to remove the worn belt so we could take it down the parts shop and size up a slightly shorter new one. Was pleased how easy it was to remove and fit the belt. Im over half way to my destination now, hopefully no more issues.
  6. Hiya, does anyone know the length of the drive belt for a 2007 1.8 TDCi with out aircon? I think it's 20mm wide? I want to get a back up spare as mines started squealing today. Not a great start to my trip but hey at least the wheel bearing is quiet now. :) Thanks in advance for any help offered.
  7. Almo

    ABS light on

    Yeah I had the sensor out when I replaced the bearing and half shaft. It came out nicely, pretty happy I didnt damage it but you never know. I will replace it first and go from there. I've got the new hub and wheel bearing coming too (hub bearing surface was worn) so I get to do this all over again LOl. But I'm mobile again which is main thing. I was wondering about the clearance gap between the sensor and ABS ring on the bearing as one of the other members mentioned. Theres not much you can adjust there though if the bearing is located fully in the housing so that the circlip can be fitted and then the sensor goes through a fixed hole in the knuckle so.... There is the possibility of dimension discrepancy between different bearing manufacturers though. The other thing that baffles my inquiring mind is how come come there are no lines /slots/holes on the ABS ring for the sensor to pick up off?
  8. Almo

    ABS light on

    Thanks Guys, I just used my multimeter and got no ohms resistance on the LH side then tried the RH side and got 706 ohms so it would appear the LH sensor is stuffed despite looking OK on visual inspection. Only 13 quid from transitparts on Ebay so no huge expense to replace first. Cheers for the info on the scan tool, will def look into that. The worst thing for me is having to wait on the parts to get here from the UK but its usually only a week if you have a good run.
  9. Almo

    ABS light on

    Thanks for the reply, yep the tone ring is on the correct (inward/engine) side. I'm pretty happy I didnt damage the ring when I slipped the drive shaft through but it is possible, hard to see in there. An auto electrical friend said I could test the sensor by unplugging it (anyone know where the plug is?) and do a resistance test and see if it matches the drivers side one. I was careful with it and had it tied back out the way. I've just ordered a new hub and another bearing off transitspares on Ebay as the hub/drivingflange has half the bearing surface worn where the bearing inner race contacts. So this time I will be super careful on install. I'm definitely getting to know my van!
  10. Hi guys, I installed a new LH front wheel bearing yst and tonite when i test drove it the ABS light stayed on. It's on at standstill with the engine running (I think this is normal yeah?) then it goes off momentarily once you start rolling but comes back on a good second later and stays on. I'm thinking it's probably to do with the ABS reluctor ring on the new bearing not being 100% compatible. Yes, i put the bearing in the right way round with the black magnetic ring to the inside and was careful replacing the sensor in its hole after cleaning the tip. The bearing wasn't an original ford one. I got it off ebay i think it is a brand called key parts prob made in China. Any thoughts?
  11. Almo

    Transmission/clutch related noise?

    Today I replaced the LH front wheel bearing, tie rod end, half shaft and seal where it enters the transmission. The seal was leaking so had to be done and I thought while i have the half shaft out I might replace it (only 55 quid) as it had wear on the inner CV joint and I wondered if perhaps this was part of the clunking on/off the gas. Unfortunately I'm waiting on some gear box oil from my usual supplier so wont be able to test drive until tomorrow. Fingers crossed for a result. What I did want to mention was that I discovered the driving flange is worn on the inner half of the 39mm diameter bearing surface that the inner races of the bearing locates on. So one half of the old bearing was spinning/fretting and has worn it down to 38.75mm. I've had to fill the gap with bearing retainer for now as I dont have time to get a new driving flange from the UK before I leave on my trip. Hmmmm...
  12. Almo

    Front axle nut torque setting

    I went with 200ft/lb and it still spins so cant be too tight!
  13. Almo

    Front axle nut torque setting

    Thank you for that. The only other reference I could find was this part supplier who lists it as 207ft/lb. Big difference! https://www.go-parts.com/ps-product.php?product=7530257&name=2010 Ford Transit Connect Wheel Bearing - Front MPA&year=2010&make=Ford&model=Transit Connect&parttype=Wheel Bearing&sku=2F7B968
  14. As above required please. I did a search on here but couldnt find anything. Fitting new front wheel bearing and half shaft tomorrow and I cant find it listed in my Haynes manual. Thanks in advance.
  15. Almo

    Transmission/clutch related noise?

    Thanks, I'm just sorting out an order at the mo with an outfit (carpartsinmotion) and I'm getting a wheel bearing with the circlip and nut plus 2x tie rod ends and 2 x tie rods as the threads and nuts on the end of them are rounded off and the tyre guy had to heat the crap out one of them to un-seize it recently. The water pump has been done. and the serpentine belt tensioner and idler roller, so I'm guessing these are all common wear items? Luckily the previous owner was mechanically inclined and recorded everything he did. Going to remove LH brake caliper this week and tie it out the way with a wooden wedge in there to hold pads apart and then go for a drive. The offending noise sounds so much like something rubbing on disc pads it's annoying me and need to eliminate that. Have also noticed now that putting the clutch in is not always an instant noise stopper. Did 100 miles on the wkd with no dramas and I've got a 200 mile trip this weekend to a racing event. Feeling less concerned than I was.
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