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The Power of the 2.5 and the 1.6 are similar. The torque rise of the 1.6 comes sooner in the rpm curve. I think most of the mileage gain if any between the two versions is the difference in the final drive ratio in the two gear boxes. The 2.5 has a 3.21:1 the 1.6 has either 3.06:1 for the XL or 3.51:1 for XLT. The 3.06 will give the best Mileage over all, but should you have the 3.51:1 you won't save money but you will have fun!!

Cool

Check out this forum http://fordtransitconnectforum.com/topic/473-traction-control/ This has a lot of information on your subject

Cool you will be the Test Case for the Transit Connect. Get in the habit of checking The Transmission Fluid Every 4000-5000 miles. with no dipstick and no electronic tell tale it is an easy thing to let slide. Carry on

Cool with that number of miles a good seat cushion would be a good option even in Florida

Great . Florida is flat so you biggest Mileage issue is how hard the AC runs. What was the Triple T?

Good post , The only thing I see is the Tpms on Mine tend to set the light between 35 and 36 LBS so the bottom pressure needs to be some where over that to keep the warning light off

Thanks for the education. I had not used the ford site. I have had several International Harvester vehicles over the years. The reason this is important is for them if you do not get a Line ticket (AKA) Window sticker you are lost. After dealing with them I always go by the Window sticker. I never have ordered a vehicle. So when I find one that I am interested in there are always one or two things that I wished I had but end up not getting. The finish line for me is does the vehicle fit the transportation need and the options are secondary. If you are looking at the SWB Wagon make sure you fold the second seat and open the side door. When I saw how much of the opening the folded seat took up I realized that the LWB was the only Choice, for me

You Can go to Ford.com and they have two types of searches one is of dealer inventory's and the other is you put in the features and they try and find out which dealer has the closest vehicle to what you ask . The Seats and the Wheels and the Barn doors should not be a problem. A lot of the wagon's tend to be the long wheel base. The Turbo is an 800.00 dollar option so it will be harder to find. The hitch is a non issue because the Aftermarket hitches are Cheap and work very well. If you cannot give any thing up then you might have to make sure and order one built.

Most of the Cars Have a window sticker that you can view and print. That's how I found mine. Good Luck

Thanks for the useful info

Very good Information. The Alternator regulator will take care of both batteries when they are combined. If there ever are solar panels involved then that woud be the place for the charge controller.

If you look for dealers with that have Transit Connects in stock. Look in the listing for the Window Sticker view, Most dealer listings have it . this will give you a complete list of what the car listed has for options and Equipment .

Cool , The aftermarket Hitch (Curt ) fits perfectly and does not stick out much beyond the rear bumper. Installs in less than 1 hour.

Thanks looking forward to seeing the real Pictures

The Dealer can get the key code off the Car, and with the Vin number. The Key Code sequence to re program the key pad should also be available. I Put my key pad at the driver door, Too much Dirt on the Back Door (Vermont , Dirt Road)

Windguy right again, unfortunately for me is only good for SWB version

I was trying to get one when I bought My TC but it only fits the SWB Version but the picture looked good, if you get one let us know how it is and post a picture.

I can't Address most of the issues for the gen one unit but the tire ware issue I can. The camber adjustment on the front suspension is not adjustable from the factory. In most cases there is an aftermarket fix to allow the camber to be reset. The Camber of the front end affects the amount of toe in that is needed to make the tire scrub acceptable. If the tires are wearing on the inside the wheels do not have enough toe in for the camber of the front end.

The space Between the wheel wells is 48 inches so if the ramp has to come up and retract into the car then that would be the determining factor. The ones that lift and retract would be sized to that distance.

That's not good news. I was hoping for a better outcome When the Lawyers get involved it seems like they end up being the big winners. Waiting for the next chapter.

The seat must be fully back. sometimes when it is just moved back it will not trip the latch enough to allow the seat back Latch to opperate. When this happens to me the most likely cause is I have neglected something under the seat. I sometimes get into the back and push the seat to the rear with my knees while pulling the seat back strap. I am not sure this will work for you but it usualy works for me. Let me know if this helps

Here is a link for the manual, $54.xx Complete and based on the Vin number A good deal https://www.factory-manuals.com/

I watched that Comparison several months ago. I was not impressed with that guy's knowledge. He sounded like a typical car sales person, Missing the real differences in the three vehicles.

Just changed the wheels and tires for the winter. The proceedure in the owners manual put the car in training mode but it would not train the sensors. I went on line to this web site . https://tpmsdirect.wordpress.com/2013/11/20/tpms-relearn-procedures-ford-lincoln-mazda-mercury/ The proceedure outlined worked like a charm. As for the Batteries in the sensors any good tire shop or workshop should have a tool like a Autel 401 trigger tool that triggers the sensors to signal the car's computer. The tool also reads the tire pressure, sensor Id number, battery state and the temp. The fact that a dealership ,tire shop or repair shop has any trouble checking the tpms sensors would be more than enough reason find a different site for service